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Old 04-27-2010, 10:52 AM   #1291
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Originally Posted by DALAZ_68 View Post
you wouldnt happen to know the max hp that coppermix can handle do you?
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Originally Posted by essforteen View Post
It said 420ps on the nismo website but i believe it means hp! for the super coppermix
NISMO | SUPER COPPERMIX
essfourteen is correct, but to be more precise, 420ps (Metric measurement for Power-Second) is equal to 414.3hp (English measurement, obviously).

Quote:
Originally Posted by bdubnyc View Post
Any suggestions? Car smokes like a freight train and the smoke smells of gas...its killing me softly...
I'd recommend rebuilding your valve train, and insure no injector leak.
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Old 04-27-2010, 11:26 AM   #1292
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Its weird though...because anytime i swap and injector it remedies the problem and it drives fine..seems every time i get on the car or go sliding (last few times the car has been near empty tank)...it clogs the SAME cylinder injector..guessing its picking up trash from the bottom of the tank.. Going to swap the injector ONE more time and do another compression check...and keep the gas tank above atleast a full tank and drive it until i have enough saved up for an SR..
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Old 04-27-2010, 11:28 AM   #1293
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bdubnyc View Post
Its weird though...because anytime i swap and injector it remedies the problem and it drives fine..seems every time i get on the car or go sliding (last few times the car has been near empty tank)...it clogs the SAME cylinder injector..guessing its picking up trash from the bottom of the tank.. Going to swap the injector ONE more time and do another compression check...and keep the gas tank above atleast a full tank and drive it until i have enough saved up for an SR..
you gonna fill up every mile?
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Old 04-27-2010, 12:17 PM   #1294
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Well i found the problem...went outside...pulled the fuel pump and it was in good condition..looked in the tank as best as i could and it looked fine...went and pulled the injector off the cylinder that was causing all the problems....and what do you know...injector o-ring was in pieces....put another o-ring on it from a clogged injector...turned the car on and drove around and the car is now back to normal...for the time being...may go to Nissan and get brand new 0-rings...heard they are about 10bux..im guessing when i put the other injector in...it possibly pinched the o-ring...buddy said to put Vaseline? on them before putting them in to prevent pinching? Vaseline?

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Old 04-27-2010, 12:51 PM   #1295
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^^According to the FSM, when installing an injector, lightly lube the o-rings with engine oil to prevent them from getting pinched. When tightening down the screws, tighten them evenly.
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Old 04-27-2010, 03:24 PM   #1296
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The point of the loop in the line is for cooling purposes. Yes, you can cut it shorter, but if you plan on racing/drifting, I highly recommend installing an powersteering oil cooler.

i just got a trans-cooler from NAPA but it should work fine for P/S

instead of getting fitings can i just cut the loop hard line short and connect hose from there to cooler to reservoir?
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Old 04-27-2010, 03:31 PM   #1297
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Can somebody tell me the size socket needed to remove a KA24E Camshaft Sprocket bolt?
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Old 04-27-2010, 03:36 PM   #1298
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my red Brake light is on in the cluster (the one that comes on when e-brake is pulled up) ..

but my e-brake is down .. it wont turn off .. my brake fluid is at the right amount too if that means any thing .. someone help
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Old 04-27-2010, 04:01 PM   #1299
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Quote:
Originally Posted by killer240 View Post
i just got a trans-cooler from NAPA but it should work fine for P/S

instead of getting fitings can i just cut the loop hard line short and connect hose from there to cooler to reservoir?
Yes

Quote:
Originally Posted by stinky_180 View Post
Can somebody tell me the size socket needed to remove a KA24E Camshaft Sprocket bolt?
If I recall correctly, you will need a 27mm socket. A 1 1/16" socket may work as well.

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my red Brake light is on in the cluster (the one that comes on when e-brake is pulled up) ..

but my e-brake is down .. it wont turn off .. my brake fluid is at the right amount too if that means any thing .. someone help
It could mean that the small switch located at the bottom of your handbrake is stuck. This happens often.
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Old 04-27-2010, 04:25 PM   #1300
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stinky_180 View Post
Can somebody tell me the size socket needed to remove a KA24E Camshaft Sprocket bolt?
Quote:
Originally Posted by xpertsnowcarver View Post
If I recall correctly, you will need a 27mm socket. A 1 1/16" socket may work as well.
confirmed, usually the 1 1/16'' fits better...


also,

anyone have a picture of how the trans linkage should sit when attempting to put it all back together...?
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Old 04-27-2010, 08:12 PM   #1301
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xpertsnowcarver View Post
^^According to the FSM, when installing an injector, lightly lube the o-rings with engine oil to prevent them from getting pinched. When tightening down the screws, tighten them evenly.
Yea friend also asked if i was using the caps to push the injector into the hole...and i said yes i did that the past 2 times...and apparently if you use the caps to push/seat the injectors...it automatically pinches or puts a slice in the injector...and to instead line them up straight and apply some pressure to seat them in THEN tighten the caps down
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Old 04-27-2010, 08:30 PM   #1302
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Installed a motor into my vert, but it wont start.

Ok fixed the fuel pump problem. [ Missed the rear engine ground ] I dont have the plug that goes to S.C.V plugged in. P.s. What is the SCV do?

Assuming the injectors are fine and shooting fuel.

Missing spark? What do I need to test for spark? Plugs, wires, dizzy? How do I test these?

THANKS!
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Old 04-27-2010, 10:44 PM   #1303
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xpertsnowcarver View Post
Your shocks wouldn't need inspecting. You should check for bent links or blown bushings. Tension rods usually suffer the most, which is why I replaced mine, including the FLCA. I eventually purchased new tie rods as well.

Once shocks are blown, they're blown. You'll need to purchase new ones.

I have yet to purchase a skid plate as well.
i got full battle version stuff, and psm skid plate. Stance gr coils bottomd out without the collar removed, so my car is decently low. but i haven't noticed any leakage, i havent removed the wheels yet to check but as far as inspection i just wanted to know what to look for. i know cracked walls, flexing, and to remove and compress by hand. Luckily i live extremely close to Touge Factory, and about 1 hour from Stance so i will be stopping by tomorrow to stance to see what they have to say then touge factory for an alignment if its all good
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Old 04-28-2010, 12:17 AM   #1304
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DALAZ_68 View Post
confirmed, usually the 1 1/16'' fits better...


also,

anyone have a picture of how the trans linkage should sit when attempting to put it all back together...?
I'm not sure what you mean by trans linkage. Do you mean the alignment of the driveshaft or the setup of the clutch fork, release bearing, and such?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Fries View Post
Installed a motor into my vert, but it wont start.

Ok fixed the fuel pump problem. [ Missed the rear engine ground ] I dont have the plug that goes to S.C.V plugged in. P.s. What is the SCV do?

Assuming the injectors are fine and shooting fuel.

Missing spark? What do I need to test for spark? Plugs, wires, dizzy? How do I test these?

THANKS!
If you are refering to a KA motor, the SCV is the Swirl Control Valve which, I believe, controls the secondary butterflies in the intake manifold. I haven't heard of this causing a vehicle not to start though. (Reference: Nissan 240sx S13 Electrical Component Locations: control units, solenoids, motors, switches and more - Garage411)

According to the FSM, to check for spark, one should use a timing lamp to see if you are getting spark. If it's not flashing, then no spark. The FSM has a detailed troubleshooting section for this, which happens to be next to the fuel system troubleshooting section as well.

Quote:
Originally Posted by chiboy002 View Post
i got full battle version stuff, and psm skid plate. Stance gr coils bottomd out without the collar removed, so my car is decently low. but i haven't noticed any leakage, i havent removed the wheels yet to check but as far as inspection i just wanted to know what to look for. i know cracked walls, flexing, and to remove and compress by hand. Luckily i live extremely close to Touge Factory, and about 1 hour from Stance so i will be stopping by tomorrow to stance to see what they have to say then touge factory for an alignment if its all good
The best thing to do, in your case, would be to disassemble both sides of your suspension and put each part side by side with it's opposite and check for differences.
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Old 04-28-2010, 12:58 AM   #1305
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im shopping around for BOV
what i have in mind is HKS or synapse
i been hearing good stuff bout synapse=steppin on HKS BOV? true?

damn computer! my speakers dont work so i cant hear nothing if i watch youtube=pointless
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Old 04-28-2010, 11:27 AM   #1306
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I went back over all my wiring. Double checked grounds. I missed one plug on the ignitor.

So now the car starts. Idles for a second at 2k then starts dieing. Blips twice and shuts off.
Fuccccck.
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Old 04-28-2010, 12:35 PM   #1307
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I recently had to change my downpipe due to a leak. I picked up a downpipe from a guy on Zilviaa but there is a slight difference. The O2 sensor threading is smaller on his. I have one that fits and connects to the plug but would it work? My CEL turned on and has not turned off even after a full night of battery disconnect. Would this be from the mis-matching sensor? If I could somehow get the CEL light to turn off, Could I pass SMOG? or would my emissions be too high of the O2 sensor wasn't working? I am so confused... maybe I should just get it scanned......... >:[
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Old 04-28-2010, 01:34 PM   #1308
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I recently had to change my downpipe due to a leak. I picked up a downpipe from a guy on Zilviaa but there is a slight difference. The O2 sensor threading is smaller on his. I have one that fits and connects to the plug but would it work? My CEL turned on and has not turned off even after a full night of battery disconnect. Would this be from the mis-matching sensor? If I could somehow get the CEL light to turn off, Could I pass SMOG? or would my emissions be too high of the O2 sensor wasn't working? I am so confused... maybe I should just get it scanned......... >:[
If you have an OBDI system, simple count the flashes you ECCS makes. (Search for S13 CEL codes and how to read the flashes.)

You won't pass smog legally if your CEL is on. If your O2 sensor is malfunctioning, this will cause your engine to run rich.
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Old 04-28-2010, 05:14 PM   #1309
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Quote:
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I'm not sure what you mean by trans linkage. Do you mean the alignment of the driveshaft or the setup of the clutch fork, release bearing, and such?



talkin about how the forks inside the gearbox housing should sit before i attempt to put the casing back over it...
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Old 04-28-2010, 05:28 PM   #1310
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Have the following: Clutch fork, clutch fork pin, release bearing, release bearing holder, release bearing holder pin, shift fork dust boot. Note: Be sure your Nismo slave cylinder is not installed.

1) Set the clutch fork pin inside the clutch fork
2) Press your release bearing onto the release bearing holder
3) Set release bearing holder pin on release bearing holder
4) Install clutch fork dust boot onto transmission
5) Install the Nismo pivot ball (if you have one to install)
6) Lightly lube the shaft for the release bearing and the pivot ball for the clutch fork

Now the somewhat tricky parts. Think of it like a 3 piece puzzle.
7) Slide the clutch fork through the clutch fork dust boot, BUT DO NOT push the clutch fork onto the pivot ball yet!!
8) At the same time, slide the release bearing a short distance on the shaft, AND slide the to tips of the clutch fork in the slots on the sides of the release bearing holder, underneath the pin ends.
9) Once you make it through step (8), make sure the fork tips don't slide out from under the pin ends and push the fork against the pivot ball until the clutch fork pin locks onto the pivot ball.

Done.

Then install your Nismo slave cylinder, then install your tranny and driveshaft, then hook up your hydraulic clutch line. Then fill and bleed your system.
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Old 04-28-2010, 08:01 PM   #1311
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theses bolts were located on my RUCA and rear toe arms.

what are they, what makes them special, and should i be doing something specific with them during re install of suspension parts?








also, my car has a zenki harness, and a kouki front. and i think the last person did a janky job at installing it. so i have a simple question:

what is suppose to light up when the turn signals go on? both the corner light and the turn signal? or just the amber turn signal? because as of now, only the amber turn signal lights up... (its a jdm front bumper as well.)
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Old 04-28-2010, 08:08 PM   #1312
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I went back over all my wiring. Double checked grounds. I missed one plug on the ignitor.

So now the car starts. Idles for a second at 2k then starts dieing. Blips twice and shuts off.
Fuccccck.
Answer: Double check your TPS, vaccum lines and timing at the dizzy.

^
Dude the bolt is for camber adjustment on your RUCAs.

Only the amber turn signal should be lighting up when you hit the switch.
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Old 04-28-2010, 08:11 PM   #1313
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Are these oem mudflaps that have just been painted and then trimmed down?
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Old 04-28-2010, 08:13 PM   #1314
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Drifting-pedobear View Post
theses bolts were located on my RUCA and rear toe arms.

what are they, what makes them special, and should i be doing something specific with them during re install of suspension parts?








also, my car has a zenki harness, and a kouki front. and i think the last person did a janky job at installing it. so i have a simple question:

what is suppose to light up when the turn signals go on? both the corner light and the turn signal? or just the amber turn signal? because as of now, only the amber turn signal lights up... (its a jdm front bumper as well.)
The bolts are OEM/factory Camber and Toe adjustments.
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Old 04-28-2010, 08:51 PM   #1315
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Are these oem mudflaps that have just been painted and then trimmed down?
Yep. They appears to be.
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Old 04-28-2010, 10:04 PM   #1316
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i dont know anything about wheel re-fiinishing

is it possible to get this wheel back to perfect shape?



appproximatlely how much would it cost per wheel?
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Old 04-28-2010, 10:07 PM   #1317
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The smaller opening up top, if I install a aftermarket BOV is this where I would attach the recirculation tube?
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Old 04-29-2010, 07:00 AM   #1318
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Quote:
Originally Posted by t.vo408 View Post


The smaller opening up top, if I install a aftermarket BOV is this where I would attach the recirculation tube?
Yes.



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Old 04-29-2010, 10:49 AM   #1319
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Question- I have a Enthaply ECU for z32 maf, anyone could tell me the in and out setting for it on a SAFC?...(91 KADE)

I know the setting is 2 in 5 out for a z32 maf with a stock ecu. Its probably different for this enthaply ecu since its already tuned for a z32 maf.
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Old 04-29-2010, 12:15 PM   #1320
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where can u get 4x114.3 to 5x114.3 wheel adapters? no ebay, genuine proven products please... thank you...
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