school me on oil cooler setups.

[Dousan_PG]

greddy hose slip on fittings blow. i had one. its a waste of money.
some people try and make that relocation filter thing into a cooler and its trash. u can make one for cheaper thru ebay.


go AN or nothing.

i dont use a Rx7 cooler
my friend does, on his rx7, works great. and cheap. ebay, junkyard. its just so big so have o had adequate space.

[Dousan_PG]

anplumbing.com is cool
or summitracing
or ebay, for used. but be careful w/used coolers
dont want nothing from a blown engine
id say go new on coolers
setrab is awesome. i got mine from SPLParts.com
ma-motorsports sells stuff
and of course, baker precision. talk w/ hung

[Sir]

Originally Posted by japslapsilvia

Why did u use -8 line? tomei adapter is -10

the hole in the block is smaller than -10, so there is no point in running -10 lines IMHO. That and the setrab cooler I got was -8an.

No need for thermo and no issues with oil pressure. But my system is set up so that the oil will stay in the cooler when engine is shut off.

[slider2828]

I have an fittings.... Weird I guess the guy sold me a greddy sandwish plate with AN fittings.

Greddy uses any fittings for the sandwich plate and I also changed my rx7 cooler to AN fittings as well... Hmmmm

[Dousan_PG]

if u have a greddy oilcooler kit its an fittings
but the price isnt worth it.
i like the customization of setting up your own cooler

kits are for japanese people. a little fab work doesnt cost much or require much energy to make

[japslapsilvia]

Originally Posted by Dousan_PG

if u have a greddy oilcooler kit its an fittings
but the price isnt worth it.
i like the customization of setting up your own cooler

kits are for japanese people. a little fab work doesnt cost much or require much energy to make

that is sooo true you can build a kit cheaper than the greddy kit and have more mounting options with the cooler.

and on a side note with the greddy sandwigch adapter, greddy does offer "AN" fittings for them instead of the barbed adapters that they normally come with.

[slider2828]

Yup I have AN fittings and custom lines. Bought it off a guy for pretty cheap like 200 and then my dad bent and cracked my oil cooler cause he was trying to bend something back... Oh wellz picked up an RX7 oil cooler really good condition for 30 bux and got AN fittings for it and removed the thermostat and all set!

[burnsauto]

my oil cooler setup cost me about the same as a greddy kit, but its exactly what i wanted, no sandwich adapters (which suck) and everything it high end parts. I could've skimped out, gotten cheaper line, etc etc.... but it was just one of those things i didn't want to skimp out on.

[corey240]

Im gettting flibber flabberd with information. To sum it up, what exactly should I get for an oil cooler. Without spending 500$.

[japslapsilvia]

Originally Posted by corey240

Im gettting flibber flabberd with information. To sum it up, what exactly should I get for an oil cooler. Without spending 500$.

1st if you have an Sr get Tomei block adapter ~$200
2nd get -10 lines from summitracing and -10 hose ends (you can also use "push loc" hose) browse the "plumbing dept at summit racing
3rd get an oil cooler, pegasus racing has Mocol, summit usually has permacool, anplumbing.com has earls, and with google you can find setrab.
4th decide if you want a thermostat, summit has in line thermostats, as well as filter bases.

[TheWolf]

the reason you want a thermostat is that in a street car the oil will absorb condensation from the engine. As the oil heats up this water vaporizes. If you live up north and your oil doesn't get warm enough after days of short run trips it can absorb enough water to become useless. The knock on the thermostat is that it can fail/stay closed and at a track day you won't be able to keep oil temps down. I'd rather prepare for the daily drive than the .01% event.

[S14DB]

Originally Posted by Om1kron

has anyone seen pictures of a setup like this with a cartridge type of oil filter. I believe it's cartridge stuff, amsoil comes to mind but I may be wrong.

Bobistheoilguy has some good write ups on those and bypass filters.

[codyace]

Originally Posted by Dousan_PG

kits are for japanese people. a little fab work doesn't cost much or require much energy to make

I fabbed all of mine up with stainless fittings from a local hydraulic shop. They are Dayco or something. Got my hoes from there too.

Got a Ford Oil filter block (permacool), and use the circuit sports adapter.

I think I was just around 100-150 bucks, but did not go with a cooler. I've never seen high oil temps doing HPDE and didn't want the hassle if I didn't need it. I Always dump in 6 qts too.

Originally Posted by Sir

the hole in the block is smaller than -10, so there is no point in running -10 lines IMHO. That and the setrab cooler I got was -8an.

Agreed. Going from -8 to -10 didn't make sense to me either. (I know why you'd want bigger hose, but with a restriction on the inlet/outlet, didn't seem to add up to me.

[GSXRJJordan]

Originally Posted by codyace

... but did not go with a cooler. I've never seen high oil temps doing HPDE and didn't want the hassle if I didn't need it...

Seriously? Do you run an oil temp gauge? Mine was up around 240*F after about a minute of "spirited" driving on my T25 back when I had a temp gauge hooked up - this and sustained high revs made my water temps shoot up to about 230* before I decided to slow down and let the car cool off - and oil takes a lonnnnng time to cool down.

After installing the oil cooler, I don't EVER see water temps above 210*F (running a bigger turbo now too), and that was a "freeway pull" on a 100*F day.

I've never seen an engine (except for the 1000cc GSXR motors I've built) that cooks it's oil - and therefore needs an oil cooler - like the SR20 - I honestly believe everyone that runs their car hard should have a cooler, but maybe your ball bearing turbo and the fact that autox is 1-2mins at a time keeps your temps down?

[Dousan_PG]

maybe
do a few laps on open track at various speeds thru corners and shifting etc etc
and temps get up real fast.
cooler is vital

[g-via]

Originally Posted by LongGrain

alright well my SR mysteriously started popping off oil filters, so of course my motor pumped all of its oil out and ran dry and spun a bearing.

so while it is down for the rebuild i want to do a custom oil filter relocation and cooler setup just to ensure i dont have this problem again (along with an oil pressure gauge of course)

i'm kind of hazy as to how the whole setup works. so i have some questions

with a relocation does the flow go: engine -> oil filter -> oil cooler -> engine?

and if that is the case, can i use a greddy relocation kit, and just run custom return lines to route to the cooler and back to the greddy oil block?

i plan on using an earls 16 row cooler and all earls lines and fittings. as far as the oil block and the relocation block, i am unsure.

any help is greatly appreciated, i searched but didnt find much help

Hey OP,

You said you were having an issue with you oil filter popping off? I'm guess you weren't running a sandwich plate (no oil pres gauge), but what kind of filter were you running?

Same shit happened to me (using a Fram filter), but I caught it in time so no major damage. do you know what caused your filter to pop off? i still dont know what caused mine, called fram about it though...

[D14]

Quick dumb question - someone mentioned covering the oil cooler with duct tape when daily driving earlier, is that just to keep the cooler from being damaged by road debris?

[96Turbo]

Originally Posted by D14

Quick dumb question - someone mentioned covering the oil cooler with duct tape when daily driving earlier, is that just to keep the cooler from being damaged by road debris?

taht was for minimizing the effect of the oil cooler so that the oil would get up to temp faster (instead of using a thermostat which would be ideal)


Does anyone know of a company that makes an oil block adapter for an RB25? I can't find one....

[GSXRJJordan]

Originally Posted by 96Turbo

taht was for minimizing the effect of the oil cooler so that the oil would get up to temp faster (instead of using a thermostat which would be ideal)


Does anyone know of a company that makes an oil block adapter for an RB25? I can't find one....

I believe the RB25 uses the same screw-on type as the later (S14/S15) SRs. I don't know about the block adapter, but I can say that as long as you keep the O-ring in good shape (install properly, replace every couple years) the screw-on type work fine/don't leak/etc. I know that's not the answer you're looking for, but just something to keep in mind.

[LongGrain]

great info everyone, keep it up

i have some concerns

with an in line filter, is there any way to change it without making a huge mess?

also, when you do an oil change, how do you get all the old oil out of the cooler/lines. do you have to remove them and manually drain/flush them?

and just to clarify, when you are filling, you fill the pan, then run the car for a little to get the oil pumping, then check dip stick and add accordingly?

[Dousan_PG]

i dont worry about the oil in the lines personally
make a mess? put the filter somewhere which will give you adequate control to keep it clean

yes on the last q

[LongGrain]

i'm just kind of concerned since this setup will be going on a freshly rebuilt motor, and going through break in with the cooler. i dont want the gritty, metallic break in oil to stay in there when i change it out for fresh stuff.

[Dousan_PG]

i did on mine and it was fine.

[LongGrain]

COOL, no worries then i guess. thanks a lot for your help!

[Dousan_PG]

np
my friends have done the same

[dopplganger1]

so if your running a block adapter how would you go about running a thermo unit or with the adapter is that not possible because the only ones with thermos that ive seen are sandwich adapters?

[LongGrain]

Originally Posted by g-via

Hey OP,

You said you were having an issue with you oil filter popping off? I'm guess you weren't running a sandwich plate (no oil pres gauge), but what kind of filter were you running?

Same shit happened to me (using a Fram filter), but I caught it in time so no major damage. do you know what caused your filter to pop off? i still dont know what caused mine, called fram about it though...

i missed this before.

i was just using the stock oil block and an OEM nissan filter.

it blew off 2 OEM filters, but i think the second one was because the threads were fucked up from the first. not sure. but i'm going to eliminate the possibility of this problem repeating itself.

i trailored the car home from the track and have not even been home to see it since. I'm pulling the motor out next friday for the rebuild since i will be home for thanksgiving.. so i guess i'll take a look at it then.

silly question- it looks like the hose end fittings and the cooler inlet/outlet are both female, do i need a male-male adapter to go between these?

[S14DB]

Originally Posted by dopplganger1

so if your running a block adapter how would you go about running a thermo unit or with the adapter is that not possible because the only ones with thermos that ive seen are sandwich adapters?

They make inline bypass themos with 4 AN ports on them. One side is Engine IN/OUT the other is Cooler IN/OUT. Looks like a Block with 2 ports on each side. There is a couple on summit.

Originally Posted by LongGrain

i'm just kind of concerned since this setup will be going on a freshly rebuilt motor, and going through break in with the cooler. i dont want the gritty, metallic break in oil to stay in there when i change it out for fresh stuff.

It's going to stay in the same spot and get trapped by the next filter. You never drain all the oil from your car. 1/2~1quart stays in the galleys and such. Another half quart won't contaminate the new oil. It's NBD.

Originally Posted by LongGrain

silly question- it looks like the hose end fittings and the cooler inlet/outlet are both female, do i need a male-male adapter to go between these?

Yes, Unless it comes with them in the package.

[g-via]

Originally Posted by LongGrain

i missed this before.

i was just using the stock oil block and an OEM nissan filter.

it blew off 2 OEM filters, but i think the second one was because the threads were fucked up from the first. not sure. but i'm going to eliminate the possibility of this problem repeating itself.

i trailored the car home from the track and have not even been home to see it since. I'm pulling the motor out next friday for the rebuild since i will be home for thanksgiving.. so i guess i'll take a look at it then.

silly question- it looks like the hose end fittings and the cooler inlet/outlet are both female, do i need a male-male adapter to go between these?

maybe I am using the wrong thread pitch for my SR

what should be the proper oil filter thread pitch, just to check...?

[LongGrain]

Originally Posted by S14DB

They make inline bypass themos with 4 AN ports on them. One side is Engine IN/OUT the other is Cooler IN/OUT. Looks like a Block with 2 ports on each side. There is a couple on summit.

It's going to stay in the same spot and get trapped by the next filter. You never drain all the oil from your car. 1/2~1quart stays in the galleys and such. Another half quart won't contaminate the new oil. It's NBD.



Yes, Unless it comes with them in the package.

thanks for the info

Originally Posted by g-via

maybe I am using the wrong thread pitch for my SR

what should be the proper oil filter thread pitch, just to check...?

i have no idea, i work at a dealership so i just grabbed OEM filters when i did oil changes. i grabbed the right ones, for a sentra SER or whatever like everyone says to. i dont think the filter was the problem, i think something else went wrong that made the filter come off.