Installing Rod Bearings/Main Bearings - Page 3 - Zilvia.net Forums | Nissan 240SX (Silvia) and Z (Fairlady) Car Forum

steve shadows · 05-23-2007, 11:52 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by HellonFire

No he can't.

#1 they will hit the oil squirters. And #2, I'm 99% sure it still won't come out the bottom even with those removed.

Tyler

wow massive brain fart.

Your right, i was thinking upsidedown, because i always flip the motor when i drop pistons out the top of the deck.

I think you can remove them with the oil squirters out of the way.

HellonFire · 05-23-2007, 11:56 AM

Haha.. I was wondering what the fuck you were smoking.

I still don't think you can take them out the bottom even with the oil squirters removed though. I'll go snap a pic of a block from above, and you can see where they wouldn't fit.

Tyler

steve shadows · 05-23-2007, 11:57 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by HellonFire

Haha.. I was wondering what the fuck you were smoking.

I still don't think you can take them out the bottom even with the oil squirters removed though. I'll go snap a pic of a block from above, and you can see where they wouldn't fit.

Tyler

Dude i know ive built several motors, im just out of it, its finals week

HellonFire · 05-23-2007, 12:02 PM

Ok, well I already took the picture and uploaded it. I'll be damned if I did all that for nothing. So.. For BenefitX then.

You can't take them out the bottom, they won't fit.

Tyler

benefitx · 05-23-2007, 02:36 PM

tyler reps man thanks alot...yea im gunna pull off the head , just need to run to autozone and buy a 27mm wrench and a 26 i think for the cams right?? or was it 25...ill just buy 3....oh and a crank pulley puller wrench then i can start...

benefitx · 05-24-2007, 02:51 PM

ok...this is what i got done

Took out the cam sprockets...took out all the camshaft caps...

removed the chain tensioner and took off the cams...

removed all the rocker arms

took out the headstuds in order

stripped the head of all the washers and shims...removed the head

stripped the block down some more (motor mounts , water pump)

took off pressure plate.

Now i need to
1) take off crank pully
2) take off flywheel
3) take off oil pump

benefitx · 05-24-2007, 03:22 PM

hey...the shims go on the right and the rocker arm guides go on the left of each valve right..

Big Bronze Rim · 05-24-2007, 03:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by benefitx

hey...the shims go on the right and the rocker arm guides go on the left of each valve right..

Thats a perfect question for the FSM... but yes the shims go on the right and the guides on the left.

benefitx · 05-24-2007, 03:33 PM

yea i just saw it in the fsm 3 times...my B

benefitx · 05-24-2007, 03:33 PM

hey tyler empty your PM box

benefitx · 05-24-2007, 05:15 PM

what headgasket should i get?

HellonFire · 05-25-2007, 12:04 AM

Cometic. And emptied.

Tyler

benefitx · 05-25-2007, 09:10 AM

ok so i pulled off the flywheel...took off the upper oil pan and the baffle plate and oil strainer...

pulled out all 4 rods and pistons...

cylinder 3 had NO rod cap bearing at all...and the bearing that it DID have looked like this (see pic 1)

the rod is bent too...its so FUBAR that the rod cap wont even go back onto the rod end

the crank is fucked...its not smooth at all , it feels like its been sanded down with 60grit..

also cylinder 1's bearings were out of shape too..

2 and 4 were the only good ones

so how do i pull out the crank now?? i know i have to take off the girdle but i have not pulled off the crank pully , i got the bolt off but the pulley is not coming off......what else do i have to take off?

HellonFire · 05-25-2007, 11:22 AM

You need a pulley puller to get the crank pulley off.

Then you have to take off the Rear Main Seal.

Then take out all the main studs.

Pull the girdle.

Try and get the caps off by hand, but it never works, soo..

Take two screwdrivers, one down in each hole. Grab them with one hand, and wiggle back and forth, the cap will come off.

Tyler

benefitx · 05-26-2007, 11:47 AM

pulled out the crank...

EVERY single main bearing had deep scratches on them, the ones that go on the caps...just deep scratches in the center of the bearing but the crank main journals looked fine...idunno... i bought a new crank anyways..

benefitx · 05-27-2007, 12:02 PM

Just bought some ACL Dura Glide 780 bearings in STD Size because i also bought a new crank....and new rods and pistons...

so now i will need some plastigauge green, i can get this from autozone right?

and some engine assembly lube...or known as torco lube??

benefitx · 05-27-2007, 06:21 PM

will i need to replace my headgasket as well?? i think i have a stock one on there im not sure...how would i be able to tell if mines is aftermarket or not or if it could be reused..i mean if it cant i will buy this

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/JDM-N...spagenameZWD1V

JDS Performance · 05-27-2007, 06:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by benefitx

will i need to replace my headgasket as well?? i think i have a stock one on there im not sure...how would i be able to tell if mines is aftermarket or not or if it could be reused..i mean if it cant i will buy this

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/JDM-N...spagenameZWD1V

To be totally honest I would never reuse a headgasket - as its is a lot to go through to replace after the motor is in the car!
I dont care if it was brand new - I would eat the $100 and save myself from a huge PITA of having to replace it later!
On the SR go Cometic!

JDS Performance · 05-27-2007, 06:45 PM

also even if you bought a new crank - you might as well take it and the block to a machice shop to make sure everything is straight and right and go aheah and pay the extra $$ to get it all balanced!

Do it right the first time even if it takes you an extra month to save up its so worth it!!!

benefitx · 05-27-2007, 06:53 PM

yea im going to get the rods and crank checked...i guess the block too since its so light now

Big Bronze Rim · 05-27-2007, 07:09 PM

Yes, you need a new HG. Either get a Cometic, or better yet, an Apex'i, but the Apex'i is almost twice the price. You will also want to have the machine shop make sure that the block and head surgaces are clean and flat, especially if you are using a MLS HG.

benefitx · 05-27-2007, 07:23 PM

how much is it to have the block acid dipped and cleaned and surfaced

benefitx · 05-28-2007, 12:08 PM

when i install the flywheel/clutch/pressure plate will i need that clutch allignment tool thing

Big Bronze Rim · 05-28-2007, 02:22 PM

It can be done without it, but its so much easier when you have one. As a recommendation you will probably want to replace your clutch(at least the disc) while you have everything apart. Its so much easier to put a clutch in when its not in the car.

benefitx · 05-28-2007, 03:02 PM

my clutch is good...nice and stiff when the car ran...its a stage 2 , the clutch looks like it has plenty of life still on it..

benefitx · 05-28-2007, 03:09 PM

heres a couple pics

the bare block

my new rods/pistons and crank

NebSR · 05-28-2007, 03:40 PM

Hey benefitx, keep the pictures and info comming mate! This stuff is like dirty magazines for motor enthusiasts. I'm doing a DE+t with my SR20DE. Which will get me better response and hp per psi Because of the DE being a 10:1 comp ratio i Think. Don't quote.

But yeah, i'm thinking about doing a rebuild also, so this stuff would come in handy as i've never done a rebuild before and it's good to see what it's like to do first time round. Especially with all the little things people forget to tell you about. Looking good so far, keep us posted!

TUnity2 · 05-28-2007, 03:54 PM

ill be pulling my SR and doing the same thing this week.
this thread should be a decent help since it's my first time into the depths of a bottom end.

man that soudned gay.

benefitx · 05-28-2007, 04:05 PM

read my other thread. its called "Write up to strip an engine" step by step on how to tear down an engine to a bare block...when i start assembling the engine ill be taking pics of every thing.

benefitx · 05-28-2007, 04:05 PM

its actually right here

http://www.zilvia.net/f/showthread.php?t=144926

05-25-2007, 09:10 AM	#73
benefitx Banned from the Marketplace Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: suwanee ga Posts: 670 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	ok so i pulled off the flywheel...took off the upper oil pan and the baffle plate and oil strainer... pulled out all 4 rods and pistons... cylinder 3 had NO rod cap bearing at all...and the bearing that it DID have looked like this (see pic 1) the rod is bent too...its so FUBAR that the rod cap wont even go back onto the rod end the crank is fucked...its not smooth at all , it feels like its been sanded down with 60grit.. also cylinder 1's bearings were out of shape too.. 2 and 4 were the only good ones so how do i pull out the crank now?? i know i have to take off the girdle but i have not pulled off the crank pully , i got the bolt off but the pulley is not coming off......what else do i have to take off? Last edited by benefitx; 08-01-2007 at 08:37 PM..

05-25-2007, 11:22 AM	#74
HellonFire Zilvia Addict Join Date: Jan 2004 Location: Georgia Age: 38 Posts: 740 Trader Rating: (1) Feedback Score: 1 reviews	You need a pulley puller to get the crank pulley off. Then you have to take off the Rear Main Seal. Then take out all the main studs. Pull the girdle. Try and get the caps off by hand, but it never works, soo.. Take two screwdrivers, one down in each hole. Grab them with one hand, and wiggle back and forth, the cap will come off. Tyler Last edited by HellonFire; 05-25-2007 at 01:17 PM..

05-27-2007, 06:45 PM	#79
JDS Performance Zilvia.net Advertiser Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: Concord, NC Posts: 3,127 Trader Rating: (53) Feedback Score: 53 reviews	also even if you bought a new crank - you might as well take it and the block to a machice shop to make sure everything is straight and right and go aheah and pay the extra $$ to get it all balanced! Do it right the first time even if it takes you an extra month to save up its so worth it!!! __________________ http://www.240SXTECHDVDS.org http://www.JDSPerformanceTurbos.com

05-28-2007, 03:40 PM	#87
NebSR Join Date: May 2007 Location: Australia Posts: 6 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	Hey benefitx, keep the pictures and info comming mate! This stuff is like dirty magazines for motor enthusiasts. I'm doing a DE+t with my SR20DE. Which will get me better response and hp per psi Because of the DE being a 10:1 comp ratio i Think. Don't quote. But yeah, i'm thinking about doing a rebuild also, so this stuff would come in handy as i've never done a rebuild before and it's good to see what it's like to do first time round. Especially with all the little things people forget to tell you about. Looking good so far, keep us posted! __________________ 93 S13 Silvia SR20 tree happy (written off) 92 S13 Silvia SR20de SOON TO BE +T Oh yeah!

05-23-2007, 11:56 AM	#62
HellonFire Zilvia Addict Join Date: Jan 2004 Location: Georgia Age: 38 Posts: 740 Trader Rating: (1) Feedback Score: 1 reviews	Haha.. I was wondering what the fuck you were smoking. I still don't think you can take them out the bottom even with the oil squirters removed though. I'll go snap a pic of a block from above, and you can see where they wouldn't fit. Tyler

05-23-2007, 12:02 PM	#64
HellonFire Zilvia Addict Join Date: Jan 2004 Location: Georgia Age: 38 Posts: 740 Trader Rating: (1) Feedback Score: 1 reviews	Ok, well I already took the picture and uploaded it. I'll be damned if I did all that for nothing. So.. For BenefitX then. You can't take them out the bottom, they won't fit. Tyler

05-23-2007, 02:36 PM	#65
benefitx Banned from the Marketplace Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: suwanee ga Posts: 670 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	tyler reps man thanks alot...yea im gunna pull off the head , just need to run to autozone and buy a 27mm wrench and a 26 i think for the cams right?? or was it 25...ill just buy 3....oh and a crank pulley puller wrench then i can start...

05-24-2007, 02:51 PM	#66
benefitx Banned from the Marketplace Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: suwanee ga Posts: 670 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	ok...this is what i got done Took out the cam sprockets...took out all the camshaft caps... removed the chain tensioner and took off the cams... removed all the rocker arms took out the headstuds in order stripped the head of all the washers and shims...removed the head stripped the block down some more (motor mounts , water pump) took off pressure plate. Now i need to 1) take off crank pully 2) take off flywheel 3) take off oil pump

05-24-2007, 03:22 PM	#67
benefitx Banned from the Marketplace Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: suwanee ga Posts: 670 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	hey...the shims go on the right and the rocker arm guides go on the left of each valve right..

05-24-2007, 03:33 PM	#69
benefitx Banned from the Marketplace Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: suwanee ga Posts: 670 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	yea i just saw it in the fsm 3 times...my B

05-24-2007, 05:15 PM	#71
benefitx Banned from the Marketplace Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: suwanee ga Posts: 670 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	what headgasket should i get?

05-25-2007, 12:04 AM	#72
HellonFire Zilvia Addict Join Date: Jan 2004 Location: Georgia Age: 38 Posts: 740 Trader Rating: (1) Feedback Score: 1 reviews	Cometic. And emptied. Tyler

05-26-2007, 11:47 AM	#75
benefitx Banned from the Marketplace Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: suwanee ga Posts: 670 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	pulled out the crank... EVERY single main bearing had deep scratches on them, the ones that go on the caps...just deep scratches in the center of the bearing but the crank main journals looked fine...idunno... i bought a new crank anyways..

05-27-2007, 12:02 PM	#76
benefitx Banned from the Marketplace Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: suwanee ga Posts: 670 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	Just bought some ACL Dura Glide 780 bearings in STD Size because i also bought a new crank....and new rods and pistons... so now i will need some plastigauge green, i can get this from autozone right? and some engine assembly lube...or known as torco lube??

05-27-2007, 06:21 PM	#77
benefitx Banned from the Marketplace Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: suwanee ga Posts: 670 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	will i need to replace my headgasket as well?? i think i have a stock one on there im not sure...how would i be able to tell if mines is aftermarket or not or if it could be reused..i mean if it cant i will buy this http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/JDM-N...spagenameZWD1V

05-27-2007, 06:53 PM	#80
benefitx Banned from the Marketplace Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: suwanee ga Posts: 670 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	yea im going to get the rods and crank checked...i guess the block too since its so light now

05-27-2007, 07:09 PM	#81
Big Bronze Rim Zilvia Member Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: San Antonio, Texas Age: 45 Posts: 173 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	Yes, you need a new HG. Either get a Cometic, or better yet, an Apex'i, but the Apex'i is almost twice the price. You will also want to have the machine shop make sure that the block and head surgaces are clean and flat, especially if you are using a MLS HG.

05-27-2007, 07:23 PM	#82
benefitx Banned from the Marketplace Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: suwanee ga Posts: 670 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	how much is it to have the block acid dipped and cleaned and surfaced

05-28-2007, 12:08 PM	#83
benefitx Banned from the Marketplace Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: suwanee ga Posts: 670 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	when i install the flywheel/clutch/pressure plate will i need that clutch allignment tool thing

05-28-2007, 02:22 PM	#84
Big Bronze Rim Zilvia Member Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: San Antonio, Texas Age: 45 Posts: 173 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	It can be done without it, but its so much easier when you have one. As a recommendation you will probably want to replace your clutch(at least the disc) while you have everything apart. Its so much easier to put a clutch in when its not in the car.

05-28-2007, 03:02 PM	#85
benefitx Banned from the Marketplace Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: suwanee ga Posts: 670 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	my clutch is good...nice and stiff when the car ran...its a stage 2 , the clutch looks like it has plenty of life still on it..

05-28-2007, 03:09 PM	#86
benefitx Banned from the Marketplace Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: suwanee ga Posts: 670 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	heres a couple pics the bare block my new rods/pistons and crank

05-28-2007, 03:54 PM	#88
TUnity2 Zilvia Junkie Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: Chalmette, la Posts: 511 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	ill be pulling my SR and doing the same thing this week. this thread should be a decent help since it's my first time into the depths of a bottom end. man that soudned gay.

05-28-2007, 04:05 PM	#89
benefitx Banned from the Marketplace Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: suwanee ga Posts: 670 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	read my other thread. its called "Write up to strip an engine" step by step on how to tear down an engine to a bare block...when i start assembling the engine ill be taking pics of every thing.