The fabrication thread.

[driftstyre]

They are ITBs Working on a plenum revision now.

Just a few other pics of the front, new blades for the sway bars and the new Precision intercooler core.

[wwiaftm]

Bill that front end is amazing!!!

[jobestudios]

Hey bill, what is the specs on the tubing used to construct the front support structure. I want to make a similar style for my v mount with dimple died gussets

[driftstyre]

Originally Posted by jobestudios

Hey bill, what is the specs on the tubing used to construct the front support structure. I want to make a similar style for my v mount with dimple died gussets

The small tubing is .5" OD, .049 wall 4130 chromoly. Id suggest TIG as it is thin but it can be MIG'd. For the lower splitter cage that bolts on to that structure, I have .4" titanium

[s13silvia123]

my first time TIG welding

i was at work and was helping maintance do some work on a new machine since i had nothing to do all day. so here it is

my first attempt a little sloppy but my beads are ok to start with

my second attempt much better and not as sloppy as the first time.

sorry if i didnt clean it up but youre able to see the welds

[blu808]

Nice start.


Looks like the metal was not cleaned properly before welding.
Usually a proper tig weld will not need to be cleaned up. If it appears dirty, then that is usually because of a dirty welding surface.

Good for a start though. I would rec, that you just try to lay some beads on some flat metal. once you have that down joining pieces will be easy :-)

[Wiisass]

Originally Posted by blu808

Looks like the metal was not cleaned properly before welding.

I think this should be the first thing that anyone who wants to weld should learn, how to properly clean what you're welding. It will make learning a lot easier and your welds will come out better.

[blu808]

Good point. I should have mentioned that. I spend more time cleaning each piece of metal than welding it.

[s13silvia123]

Originally Posted by blu808

Nice start.


Looks like the metal was not cleaned properly before welding.
Usually a proper tig weld will not need to be cleaned up. If it appears dirty, then that is usually because of a dirty welding surface.

Good for a start though. I would rec, that you just try to lay some beads on some flat metal. once you have that down joining pieces will be easy :-)

the stainless steel that i was using was just scrap metal. i was bored and had nothing to do. yes it was dirty. didnt feel like cleaning it. but i'm thinking i'm gonna make something at work if i have nothing to do again.


yes you guys are right. practice makes everything better. next time i'll clean the metal surface so that its cleaner. but this was just practice for me. i do this every once in awhile when i'm bored. i'm trying to make myself better at welding.

i'm probably will be investing on my own TIG welder very soon. but i want a welder that uses gas. it seems like its much more easier for me to weld when i'm using gas. i have a hard time welding without gas. i usually end up with a really sloppy job.

i'm having a buddy at work teach me so i can become better.

[blu808]

Can you elaborate? All tig welders use gas.

Are you referring to mig? You can mig without gas if you use fluxcore wire.

[EJ253]

heres one of my first welds with my new miller
hopefully i have some neat parts to post up soon

[projectdrifter]

i figure one of you fabbers can help me out. my question is the hump in the s14 i want to remove it so i can drop my seat lower. what gauge metal should i use. s14 hump on driver side. ii have seen a thread posted before of someone who did it but i cant 4 the life of me track it down. feel free to pm me a to not clutter this great thread up.

[blu808]

18 gauge sheet will work fine.

[s13silvia123]

Originally Posted by blu808

Can you elaborate? All tig welders use gas.

Are you referring to mig? You can mig without gas if you use fluxcore wire.

yes mig my bad i should of said that in the first place.

[Brian W.]

Originally Posted by DisEpyon

the material is 1/8 aluminum plating, welded with 3/32 5356 aluminum rod, the machine was set around 145 amps (i set all my aluminum working high like that so i can control a wide range of heat) didnt use pulse or post flow and i dont remember where i had my ac balance at, somewhere between cleaning and penetration, most likely a little more on the cleaning side.

i fitted the plates with a corner joint, like in example c in the picture, then grinded the edges a tad bit to help give it a bevel


I have a question for those of you that weld on stainless steel alot,

how are you guys setting up your back purge system? details or pics would be nice. my brother bought some sch 10 manifold tubing material for me to practice on and im having a little trouble as to how to hook one up. Ive heard people using a seperate cylinder, or hooking up a y splitter some where on there machine or cylinder and running a hose off one end.

i use a seperate bottle with a regulator on it.. i have one small hose coming off of it that i then plug into whatever i am welding.

to keep the gas in the weld piece i either:

use tinfoil

or i bought some large "bouncy" balls from toys r us... i then belt sanded them into more of a conical shape and plugged a small brake hardline through it and hook the hose up to that so you can stick it in each runner of the header, and either tape or tinfoil up the other orifices.



^^^^ that worked REALLY well.




i also have a hole drilled in my welding table and plugged a barb fitting in to it that i can then run argon hose from the backpurge bottle to. then i can sit the tube or what have you that i am welding over top of that barb fitting on my welding table and then just cap off the other end.


also make sure to vent it out the otherside... depends on how much pressure you are running though.

[DisEpyon]

Originally Posted by Brian W.

i use a seperate bottle with a regulator on it.. i have one small hose coming off of it that i then plug into whatever i am welding.

to keep the gas in the weld piece i either:

use tinfoil

or i bought some large "bouncy" balls from toys r us... i then belt sanded them into more of a conical shape and plugged a small brake hardline through it and hook the hose up to that so you can stick it in each runner of the header, and either tape or tinfoil up the other orifices.



^^^^ that worked REALLY well.




i also have a hole drilled in my welding table and plugged a barb fitting in to it that i can then run argon hose from the backpurge bottle to. then i can sit the tube or what have you that i am welding over top of that barb fitting on my welding table and then just cap off the other end.


also make sure to vent it out the otherside... depends on how much pressure you are running though.

Thanks for the reply and info., also how much argon do you usually have the purge set to flowing?

[HS13KLS]

NOW THAT IS A GOOD BEAD!!
nice weld!
+1

Originally Posted by EJ253

heres one of my first welds with my new miller
hopefully i have some neat parts to post up soon

[Brian W.]

Originally Posted by DisEpyon

Thanks for the reply and info., also how much argon do you usually have the purge set to flowing?

it depends on the volume of the work piece or how well its sealed...


just practice with some scrap material and see what works.. .start at like 7cfm.

[EJ253]

i boxed in my subframes corners, i used 10g sheet metal





im going to box in a few other areas, ill post more pics then

[Wiisass]

10 gauge? I think that's a little thicker than you need. I don't think the subframe material itself is even half of that.

[GSXRJJordan]

^^^ That's the first thing I thought too! Subframe looks like 16ga stamped pieces to me, but hey, maybe he just had some 10ga sitting around... can't hurt I suppose. Just a little more stress in the center of those pieces, rather than at the joints.

[fromxtor]

EJ: Where in NC are you hanging out now?

Luke: Clear out your inbox

[burnsauto]

I always wonder why I don't see more people help out their sub-frame like that. I'm going to try to add Dimpled braces if possible when i get ahold of an extra sub-frame. Keeping everything out of the way and clean looking, while also giving the most support I can, is going to be the hard part.

[EJ253]

Originally Posted by fromxtor

EJ: Where in NC are you hanging out now

When I'm there I'm usually in charlotte, but I'm in Utah for the time being.

The the gauge of the subframe I should check it again, but I could've sworn it was thicker than 16g, I thought it was closer to 1/8th or so

[initial D]

everyone does some sweet work from the pictures ive seen, ive wanted to get into welding for a while just unsure about what kind of welder to get.

And i have a rust hole in the floor of my car, what kind of welder would be used for that? would it matter what kind i used?

[blu808]

thanks. Inbox cleared.

Luke

[TougeLabs]

Hey guys i just wanted to show you how the centerline intake plenum was coming along heres some piks of it coming together. Rich over at Excessive is a great guy and the only other plenum i have seen that is centerline "throttle inlet between 2 and 3" was that saurus time attack. Also we are doing a bolt on plenum for right now so we can switch it over to a normal front throttle body and check the diff. on the dyno.

[TougeLabs]

[driftstyre]

I finished the endtanks for the intercooler and they might need a little tweaking but they are ok. I'd love to get some better metal fabricating tools...someday. I also got my dual wall 2.5" stainless bellows (from coast fab)for the wastegate return and the twin scroll housing for the GT30. Now I can fit the exhaust and then send the housing/manifold to swain for coating.





Also, this is a rotary powered Lotus 7 replica. The factory turbos imploded so I fabbed up a manifold and exhaust for the new 3071R. 2000lbs and this turbo should be fun

[lazierhobo]

as always bill excellent work!! that lotus must be a blast to drive

seems that the 3071 is becoming a quick favorite.