This is the roll center, suspension pickup, and steering angle modification thread.

[GKTECH]

Hi Nikzilla,

You could email us and we would be able to assist.

As for the bolt not going through, this is the first time I have ever heard of this and I've just checked a few of the caster rods we have here and they're all fine. Have you tried both sides? To confirm the bolts supplied should be M12x1.25.

In regards to the swaybar in order to get maximum clearance with our tension rods not only do we bend the tension rod but we also offset it on both sides. This does require modification to the base of the swaybar end link holder. A dremel or grinder is probably the easiest tool to use.

If there's anything else that we can help you with or you have any other info please email me directly at [email protected]

Regards,
Greg

[Toaster]

Wouldnt that weaken the mounting point?

Why does GKtech not just remove this in production?

[GKTECH]

Originally Posted by Toaster

Wouldnt that weaken the mounting point?

Why does GKtech not just remove this in production?

The washer just helps to locate the OEM style rubber for the end link, it's no big deal.

This is an OEM LCA, our LCA's do not have this style locator.

[Nikzilla]

Originally Posted by GKTECH

Hi Nikzilla,

You could email us and we would be able to assist.

As for the bolt not going through, this is the first time I have ever heard of this and I've just checked a few of the caster rods we have here and they're all fine. Have you tried both sides? To confirm the bolts supplied should be M12x1.25.

In regards to the swaybar in order to get maximum clearance with our tension rods not only do we bend the tension rod but we also offset it on both sides. This does require modification to the base of the swaybar end link holder. A dremel or grinder is probably the easiest tool to use.

If there's anything else that we can help you with or you have any other info please email me directly at [email protected]

Regards,
Greg

That's really disappointing. I've test fit my friends ISIS angled tension rods, and they provide about twice as much wheel clearance, and have no fitment issues whatsoever (no sway bar mods).



On top of that, I already painted my LCA's after cutting off the bump stops. So I now have to do that all over again. Nowhere on the gktech website does it mention anything about having to modify the LCA to fit these tension rods. http://www.gktech.com/index.php/v3-s...mid-april.html

As for the bolts, I confirmed that the bolts provided are indeed M12x1.25. I've tried putting them in through both sides of the tension rod, and I've also tried it on the other (matching) tension rod. I then found some other M12x1.25 bolts I had laying around, and they had the same problem going through the hole.

[GKTECH]

Very odd indeed as as mentioned I have not ever had a single issue with the bolt hole being the incorrect size.

Please email me and I will provide a resolution: [email protected]

Regards,
Greg

[sr vegas 240]

My big angle tension arms weld this up or I might make a new end and weld it up to the threaded end

[Joobie610]

Originally Posted by sr vegas 240

My big angle tension arms weld this up or I might make a new end and weld it up to the threaded end

Right idea, but I wouldn't trust the amount of porosity in that.

Sent from my E6653 using Tapatalk

[2_Liter_Turbo]

Originally Posted by sr vegas 240

My big angle tension arms weld this up or I might make a new end and weld it up to the threaded end

I hope you're kidding...

[sr vegas 240]

No not really

[2_Liter_Turbo]

You spend money on drop knuckles and coilovers, but hack up a tension arm rather than buying a legit one? (I get the LCA). I would not run that thing at all man, it's going to fatigue, break, and cause a whole world of hurt. Just warning ya.

[sr vegas 240]

I appreciate the concern but I'm out of funds it's just an idea not sure what I'll do yet.

[az_240]

oh wow, just save up until you have enough for proper tension rods.... I had some GKtech ones for cheap not too long ago.

[Croustibat]

You are soon to be nominated for a darwin award.

[Tearlessj]

Yea don't run that man. I neglected my wheel hitting my tension rod and when it finally broke it pretty much totaled the car. It snapped my coilover, bent my flca, destroyed my subframe, bent my tie rod, and it push the wheel into the firewall hard enough to put a hole into the cabin.

[stuckonfresh]

I also would not use that tie rod the way it is. It was a good thought for clearance purposes, but doesnt seem structurally secure. I think the risk of using the tie rod like that is MUCH higher than the reward of added clearance. If this breaks there is nothing to hold tension on that side of the car during braking (or any external force working in a lateral/horizontal direction against the FLCA)- the whole FLCA gains freedom to move laterally and the subframe mounting points are not strong enough to keep it from moving laterally.

.

[Jorgs_7]

lol @ welding ebay tension arms for clearance.

Please post pics afterwards atleast. May as well try if you're willing to risk a wheel.

[epik1]

Originally Posted by Nikzilla

So I recently purchased the new v3 gktech s13 tension rods, but I've run into a couple of issues with them.

To start off, the bolts provided by gktech for bolting the tension rod the LCA, do not actually fit the holes. They go in a bit, and then start binding and I'm unable to push them in anymore.



Here you can see the scratches on the inside of the hole where the bolt is binding. I've tried turning the bolt with a wrench but it binds up really hard and I'm pretty sure if I go any harder I'll damage the threads on the bolt.




My second issue, is that the tension rod does not clear the sway bar mounting point. Here you can see how much the tension rod overlaps over where the sway bar bushing is supposed to go. Because of this, the tension rod can't even sit flat on the LCA, so I'm unable to put it on the car.



For this picture, I moved the tension rod the side of the sway bar mounting point so that it sits flush with the LCA. You can see how far off the holes are.



All this test fitting was done with the gktech tension rod set to the same length as the OEM.

Not sure if applicable for you, and sorry if this is a stupid suggestion .
I ran into this same issue (rod not matching up to LCA mounting points) but not with GKtech arms.
I'm a noob, was putting back together my front-end suspension, make sure there is no tension in any of the connecting suspension parts.
(S13 w/ S14 LCA [not modified], aftermarket endlinks, aftermarket sway bar, stock knuckle)

ex. if I tightened up sway bar endlink before bolting up the tension/castor rod, the mounting points wouldn't match up.

[GKTECH]

That's a good suggestion epik1 however unfortunately in this case it seems as though 1 of the caster rod holes wasn't machined all the way out which is what was stopping the bolt going through all the way.

[epik1]

Originally Posted by GKTECH

That's a good suggestion epik1 however unfortunately in this case it seems as though 1 of the caster rod holes wasn't machined all the way out which is what was stopping the bolt going through all the way.

yeah, I read that as well, only had a bit of input on the "holes not lining up with LCA" issue.

[sr vegas 240]

Just ordered my self some gktech lcas can't wait

[yoni_nismo]

Does anyone know if you can use stock s14 moog inner and outer tie rods with the PBM front knuckles? It seems to be short when doing my initial tape measure alignment before I take it to the shop.

[derass]

I would presume that tie-rod combination is too short.

Do you have everything mocked up? If you have a minimum of 1xDiameter (12?14?mm) thread engagement between the inner and outer you will be fine.

If you need a little bit more length, the easiest thing would be to switch to Maxima outers as they are 1" longer than S14. There's a post in this thread with the exact year of Maxima.

[Nikzilla]

Having more issues with gktech.

I assembled my other tension rod today, only to notice that the threads on the 2nd rod end are damaged. I couldn't thread in the rod end. I never took it out of it's packaging, so there is no way I could have caused the damage.



I filed down the damaged threads to get it to go in, but it's still binding hard and is very hard to turn the rod end.

I also bought some gktech offset rack spacers. As you can see in the pictures, the notches don't line up.

This is the right side of the car (I tried fitting both of the spacers).




This is the left.

[ka-titties]

Do you have an early model S13? The notches were in different positions on 89/90 models I believe.

[derass]

From the PBM website:

[GKTECH]

[email protected] any questions or concerns please don't hesitate to contact us and we'll gladly be of assistance (it's much easier via email as we can easily miss new posts in a forum)

[dazed]

Aftermarket rear drop knuckles vs 300zx aluminum rear knuckles.

Wondering if it's really necessary to get the drop knuckles. I was mainly considering them for the corrected suspension geometry and the spherical bearings would be a plus too.

Plan on raising the subframe with SPL bushings which should help. Car won't see any track time, just a low street car.

Are the 300zx uprights a good idea for a low car? I remember reading somewhere about the strut mounts binding in certain situations, I kinda forget exactly when. Obviously I'd need to get new lower mounts, but that's not a big deal as I'm sure Stance sells them seperately.

[PoorMans180SX]

Originally Posted by dazed

Aftermarket rear drop knuckles vs 300zx aluminum rear knuckles.

Wondering if it's really necessary to get the drop knuckles. I was mainly considering them for the corrected suspension geometry and the spherical bearings would be a plus too.

Plan on raising the subframe with SPL bushings which should help. Car won't see any track time, just a low street car.

Are the 300zx uprights a good idea for a low car? I remember reading somewhere about the strut mounts binding in certain situations, I kinda forget exactly when. Obviously I'd need to get new lower mounts, but that's not a big deal as I'm sure Stance sells them seperately.

Honestly you're fine if it's a street car. The strut mounts only bind if you have an S14, S13's line up great.

I would suggest getting sphericals if you really want it to have proper function, it's huge to have zero bind in your suspension and let the dampers do the work.

If you have an S14 you'll be in pro-squat, but you can move the lower arm mount if you're really concerned about that.

[dazed]

Originally Posted by PoorMans180SX

Honestly you're fine if it's a street car. The strut mounts only bind if you have an S14, S13's line up great.

I would suggest getting sphericals if you really want it to have proper function, it's huge to have zero bind in your suspension and let the dampers do the work.

If you have an S14 you'll be in pro-squat, but you can move the lower arm mount if you're really concerned about that.

Thank you for the input.

I have an S14. Honestly, I think when you add it all up; Z32 uprights ($75-$100), SPL bearing kit ($329), Stance Z32 lower mounts ($100?), I'll probably be spending less in the end just getting the PBM drop knuckles ($400).

Might be overkill, I just want the geometry back to or close to normal.

[PoorMans180SX]

I'd highly suggest the GKtech knuckles.