Small Questions Thread (SEARCH FIRST! Use this instead of making NEW threads) - Page 667 - Zilvia.net Forums | Nissan 240SX (Silvia) and Z (Fairlady) Car Forum

***dorkidori_s13*** · 07-15-2016, 02:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jared420sx

S14 t28 frsh rebuild
Blitz bov
Aem ems
370cc sr injectors
Evo9 stock fmic
3in dp
3in exhaust
Cast manifold
Aem wideband
Headgasket
Fresh ka24de
Can i hit 300 whp relatively safely?

no... you need to upgrade your injectors to at least 550cc. youll max out around 13-14psi on OE injectors.

jared420sx · 07-15-2016, 02:42 PM

You think i can hit 300whp with the t28 and i read not to go over 18psi is that to much or on point?

***dorkidori_s13*** · 07-15-2016, 03:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jared420sx

You think i can hit 300whp with the t28 and i read not to go over 18psi is that to much or on point?

eh, its gonna take more than just a turbo... gonna need standalone, injectors, cams, headwork, full exhaust etc. S15 turbo is good to about 18psi, but falls back around 12-14 above 5500rpms.

tootall4la · 07-15-2016, 03:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by white95zenki

so I am going to order some fortune auto coils for my s14. I was just wondering what spring rates should i run? the car is my daily

Adding to this, what about suspension arms for a daily? SPL,Voodoo, PBM? Would that be overkill on a daily/ spirited driving?

Since you're changing the geometry of the car when you're lowering the car.

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jared420sx · 07-15-2016, 03:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tootall4la

Adding to this, what about suspension arms for a daily? SPL,Voodoo, PBM? Would that be overkill on a daily/ spirited driving?

Since you're changing the geometry of the car when you're lowering the car.

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Well, it depends. How low do you wana go lol
And how well do you want it to handle.

black'N'proud · 07-15-2016, 06:08 PM

I have recently just finished a stock sr20det swap into my s14, so far I have not gotten into boost much and I have been shifting at low rpm's around 2500- 3000 to break the engine in and it runs fine. The times that I have hit boost it feels like the car isn't going any where ( not accelerating like a boosted car should), its showing 6-9 psi on my auto meter boost gauge but it doesn't feel any different from when I not in boost. I can hear the t25 spooling up but still nothing. I have done some searching and found a few clues but after replacing what I thought was the issue nothing has changed. Parts that have been replaced with new oem Nissan parts are knock sensor and both coolant temp sensors. I have consult connected with ecu talk and it shows the timing at 15* btc ( the timing can be sporadic sometimes at idle and adjust from 5* - 30* while on the throttle). Throttle position sensor is set to .44ish. Any advice would be greatly appreciated, thanks in advance. Also I keep getting code 34 (knock sensor).

***dorkidori_s13*** · 07-15-2016, 06:54 PM

your knock sensor harness plug might be bad (its a 25 year old motor). you can pick a new one up for pretty cheap via FRSport, Z1 Motorsports or Enjuku.

sure youre not boost leaking anywhere? clean your MAF sensor (the ACTUAL sensor)?

black'N'proud · 07-15-2016, 07:34 PM

I will have to try that, in fact while replacing the knock sensor I remember thinking to myself "I should replace this harness too, eh it will probably be ok." Thanks for the advice, and I will check for boost leaks and try cleaning mafs.

[240sx] · 07-15-2016, 09:36 PM

Is there no way to adjust(add[-]) camber on a front strut of a S14 without camber plates, oblonged holes or offset/eccentric bolts? I JUST visually noticed my passenger front wheel has more positive camber and alignment sheet confirms.

Note, when I bolted both struts onto the knuckle I pushed them inward while thightening to induce negative camber. (Tokico blues w/ eibach lowering springs)

Sent from my SM-G930P

David48 · 07-16-2016, 05:47 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by [240sx]

Is there no way to adjust(add[-]) camber on a front strut of a S14 without camber plates, oblonged holes or offset/eccentric bolts? I JUST visually noticed my passenger front wheel has more positive camber and alignment sheet confirms.

Note, when I bolted both struts onto the knuckle I pushed them inward while thightening to induce negative camber. (Tokico blues w/ eibach lowering springs)

Sent from my SM-G930P

No, you just listed the only ways to adjust front camber. Buy some crash bolts. They're too cheap to not be able to just pick some up. Also, buy some adjustable tension rods. Your front caster is making your car pull more than your camber is.

Mister.E · 07-16-2016, 12:13 PM

Torque specs for Z32 caliper halves, anyone know what they are? I've done the fronts to 80ft/lb before but they are iron. Would it be safe to do that on the aluminum rears? Is 80 too much for the fronts?

Sorry for all of the questions.

[240sx] · 07-16-2016, 01:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by David48

No, you just listed the only ways to adjust front camber. Buy some crash bolts. They're too cheap to not be able to just pick some up. Also, buy some adjustable tension rods. Your front caster is making your car pull more than your camber is.

I don't see how I was able to add so much negative camber to the driver'a side wheel but not the Passenger when installation was identical. Visually it's annoying because I can see the difference and it MAY be rubbing. As far as caster, I do not understand why the two sides differ so much but the car does already have tension rods and it drive straight. No pull, no wobble, or crabing.

***dorkidori_s13*** · 07-16-2016, 01:52 PM

If you have more camber on one side than the other you have a bent lower control arm.

***dorkidori_s13*** · 07-16-2016, 01:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mister.E

Torque specs for Z32 caliper halves, anyone know what they are? I've done the fronts to 80ft/lb before but they are iron. Would it be safe to do that on the aluminum rears? Is 80 too much for the fronts?

Sorry for all of the questions.

I believe its 75lbs both front and rear for torque on the caliper bolts to the hubs. I don't have my Chilton's with me so I can't confirm. If youre nervous about it, just torque the rears down to 65lbs and you'll be fine. 65-75lbs is actually a lot of torque and I highly doubt anything is gonna come loose (especially once you build up some heat on the bolts)

[240sx] · 07-16-2016, 03:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dorkidori_s13

If you have more camber on one side than the other you have a bent lower control arm.

Not possible. They are brand new from Nissan.
Apperently the strut to knuckle bolts came loose and caused [+] camber. Redid it & now its too much [-]. G*d damn it![emoji35]

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kashira kureijii · 07-16-2016, 05:55 PM

Im going to have my car painted,

Do y'all happen to know what paint or coating to use on the door/window trim and windshield wipers?
I looked it up and the trim is not available new anymore, as it is discontinued.

Also can you still buy that black tape stuff that goes all the way around the car?

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Mister.E · 07-16-2016, 06:03 PM

Sorry, I suppose I should have clarified that I was wondering if anyone ever actually found torque specs for putting the calipers halves back together. This has always been a long unanswered question. I'm just looking for a good recommendation at this point.

[240sx] · 07-16-2016, 07:01 PM

^^^Wish I knew to help you out, but I do know those look damn nice.

Sent from my SM-G930P

Crazyced · 07-17-2016, 11:17 PM

I took the tank off my S13 and noticed the nipple for the vent line was snapped flush. Can I just fill the hole with cement an run some kind of pressure/vac gas cap?

ryandriftingfat · 07-18-2016, 12:49 PM

Depends on fuel. I have a built motor and Adaptronic ECU and I can't hit 300 with 550's on 91. Go bigger.

kashira kureijii · 07-18-2016, 01:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kashira kureijii

Im going to have my car painted,

Do y'all happen to know what paint or coating to use on the door/window trim and windshield wipers?
I looked it up and the trim is not available new anymore, as it is discontinued.

Also can you still buy that black tape stuff that goes all the way around the car?
Also someone posted a link

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Bros? Need to figure it out so i can tell the paint guy

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SoundEfx · 07-18-2016, 03:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SoundEfx

I'm trying to flush my heater core in hopes that the rust in the system isn't too bad in there.

In any case, can someone tell me which hose flows to the heater core inlet and which one out of the core?

My plan is to attach a low pressure stream of 'rust dissolver' to the out port in hopes of it pushes all the debris out the input where I'm hoping most of it accumulated.

Thanks.

Anyone ever done this on a S14?

lunchmeat · 07-18-2016, 03:49 PM

Bottom hose(from block) is the inlet.

***dorkidori_s13*** · 07-18-2016, 04:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kashira kureijii

Bros? Need to figure it out so i can tell the paint guy

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

the black tape is just vehicle vinyl. any wrap shop who carries 3M/Avery paint wrap vinyl should be able to cut you strips long enough to apply to the car.

DJTTon · 07-19-2016, 06:05 AM

Is it normal for rpms to slightly drop when the brake pedal is depressed?

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SoundEfx · 07-19-2016, 10:21 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by lunchmeat

Bottom hose(from block) is the inlet.

Thanks.

But now I'm a little confused because both of them comes from the block.
The only difference is that the top one has a cable and a weird looking valve 'thing' attached to it.

5280VertDET · 07-19-2016, 11:25 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DJTTon

Is it normal for rpms to slightly drop when the brake pedal is depressed?

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If you have a brake booster, ABS or Vert car, then yes. Its run off vacuum which can lower your RPMs due to the IACV losing some vacuum.

DJTTon · 07-19-2016, 12:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 5280VertDET

If you have a brake booster, ABS or Vert car, then yes. Its run off vacuum which can lower your RPMs due to the IACV losing some vacuum.

Is it possible for the booster to give too much assistance? Bc that's what it feels like with my brake pedal right now.

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dz1 · 07-20-2016, 06:30 PM

Before I make a thread i wanted to ask here in case someone here might help.
So i have had my 1995 s14 for about 7 years about to hit 8. I have never had engine problems I always take care of it. HOWEVER my driver side window has been a nightmare and I'm seriously done with it. The very first thing that went out was the motor you know slow cranking until it got stuck. Replaced it with another one that was pretty expensive at the time. Then the window switch buttons got stuck so I got another one. Then came another motor after about 3 years.After that came the clicking amp, which was fixed once with the tutorial in here about soldering. Then another motor very recently which was installed less that 3 months ago and I have a feeling its a bad one too. To finish it off my dam amp gave up again.

So I've gone through
3 window motors
2 switches
2 amps

Is this normal?
What should be my next step? Just by a whole dam door? or have you guys had similar experiences?

Matej · 07-20-2016, 07:09 PM

Can anyone please measure the center bore diameter of a KA flywheel for me, if you have one lying around?
Thank you.

07-15-2016, 06:08 PM	#19986
black'N'proud Zilvia Member Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: kentucky Posts: 217 Trader Rating: (5) Feedback Score: 5 reviews	I have recently just finished a stock sr20det swap into my s14, so far I have not gotten into boost much and I have been shifting at low rpm's around 2500- 3000 to break the engine in and it runs fine. The times that I have hit boost it feels like the car isn't going any where ( not accelerating like a boosted car should), its showing 6-9 psi on my auto meter boost gauge but it doesn't feel any different from when I not in boost. I can hear the t25 spooling up but still nothing. I have done some searching and found a few clues but after replacing what I thought was the issue nothing has changed. Parts that have been replaced with new oem Nissan parts are knock sensor and both coolant temp sensors. I have consult connected with ecu talk and it shows the timing at 15* btc ( the timing can be sporadic sometimes at idle and adjust from 5* - 30* while on the throttle). Throttle position sensor is set to .44ish. Any advice would be greatly appreciated, thanks in advance. Also I keep getting code 34 (knock sensor). __________________ under cover brother

07-15-2016, 06:54 PM	#19987
*dorkidori_s13* ITS LISA'S FAULT!!! Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: Las Vegas Age: 42 Posts: 7,492 Trader Rating: (41) Feedback Score: 41 reviews	your knock sensor harness plug might be bad (its a 25 year old motor). you can pick a new one up for pretty cheap via FRSport, Z1 Motorsports or Enjuku. sure youre not boost leaking anywhere? clean your MAF sensor (the ACTUAL sensor)? __________________ Check out my IG for what I'm up to! DORKIDORI INSTAGRAM!!!

07-15-2016, 07:34 PM	#19988
black'N'proud Zilvia Member Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: kentucky Posts: 217 Trader Rating: (5) Feedback Score: 5 reviews	I will have to try that, in fact while replacing the knock sensor I remember thinking to myself "I should replace this harness too, eh it will probably be ok." Thanks for the advice, and I will check for boost leaks and try cleaning mafs. __________________ under cover brother

07-16-2016, 12:13 PM	#19991
Mister.E Post Whore! Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Las Vegas Age: 39 Posts: 4,590 Trader Rating: (53) Feedback Score: 53 reviews	Small Questions Thread (SEARCH FIRST! Use this instead of making NEW threads) Torque specs for Z32 caliper halves, anyone know what they are? I've done the fronts to 80ft/lb before but they are iron. Would it be safe to do that on the aluminum rears? Is 80 too much for the fronts? Sorry for all of the questions. __________________ : @e_lemonation

07-16-2016, 01:52 PM	#19993
*dorkidori_s13* ITS LISA'S FAULT!!! Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: Las Vegas Age: 42 Posts: 7,492 Trader Rating: (41) Feedback Score: 41 reviews	If you have more camber on one side than the other you have a bent lower control arm. __________________ Check out my IG for what I'm up to! DORKIDORI INSTAGRAM!!!

07-15-2016, 02:42 PM	#19982
jared420sx Zilvia FREAK! Join Date: Jan 2014 Location: Ny Age: 27 Posts: 1,057 Trader Rating: (13) Feedback Score: 13 reviews	You think i can hit 300whp with the t28 and i read not to go over 18psi is that to much or on point?

07-16-2016, 06:03 PM	#19997
Mister.E Post Whore! Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Las Vegas Age: 39 Posts: 4,590 Trader Rating: (53) Feedback Score: 53 reviews	Sorry, I suppose I should have clarified that I was wondering if anyone ever actually found torque specs for putting the calipers halves back together. This has always been a long unanswered question. I'm just looking for a good recommendation at this point. __________________ : @e_lemonation

07-16-2016, 07:01 PM	#19998
[240sx] Zilvia Addict Join Date: Oct 2013 Location: Highdesert Posts: 849 Trader Rating: (1) Feedback Score: 1 reviews	^^^Wish I knew to help you out, but I do know those look damn nice. Sent from my SM-G930P

07-17-2016, 11:17 PM	#19999
Crazyced Zilvia Junkie Join Date: Apr 2015 Location: Ottawa Posts: 380 Trader Rating: (1) Feedback Score: 1 reviews	I took the tank off my S13 and noticed the nipple for the vent line was snapped flush. Can I just fill the hole with cement an run some kind of pressure/vac gas cap?

07-18-2016, 12:49 PM	#20000
ryandriftingfat Zilvia Addict Join Date: May 2010 Location: CA Posts: 790 Trader Rating: (10) Feedback Score: 10 reviews	Depends on fuel. I have a built motor and Adaptronic ECU and I can't hit 300 with 550's on 91. Go bigger.

07-18-2016, 03:49 PM	#20003
lunchmeat Zilvia Addict Join Date: Apr 2016 Location: Southaven, ms Age: 45 Posts: 951 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	Bottom hose(from block) is the inlet.

07-19-2016, 06:05 AM	#20005
DJTTon Zilvia Addict Join Date: Nov 2015 Location: Where the bad guys are Posts: 886 Trader Rating: (6) Feedback Score: 6 reviews	Is it normal for rpms to slightly drop when the brake pedal is depressed? Sent from my SPH-L720T using Tapatalk __________________ Skurr Skurr

07-20-2016, 06:30 PM	#20009
dz1 Leaky Injector Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: O.C Age: 35 Posts: 114 Trader Rating: (2) Feedback Score: 2 reviews	Before I make a thread i wanted to ask here in case someone here might help. So i have had my 1995 s14 for about 7 years about to hit 8. I have never had engine problems I always take care of it. HOWEVER my driver side window has been a nightmare and I'm seriously done with it. The very first thing that went out was the motor you know slow cranking until it got stuck. Replaced it with another one that was pretty expensive at the time. Then the window switch buttons got stuck so I got another one. Then came another motor after about 3 years.After that came the clicking amp, which was fixed once with the tutorial in here about soldering. Then another motor very recently which was installed less that 3 months ago and I have a feeling its a bad one too. To finish it off my dam amp gave up again. So I've gone through 3 window motors 2 switches 2 amps Is this normal? What should be my next step? Just by a whole dam door? or have you guys had similar experiences? __________________ I only log in when I have money

07-20-2016, 07:09 PM	#20010
Matej Post Whore! Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: N/A Posts: 9,423 Trader Rating: (39) Feedback Score: 39 reviews	Can anyone please measure the center bore diameter of a KA flywheel for me, if you have one lying around? Thank you.