Causes of Bogging after Operating Temp

[Matt_240]

Originally Posted by idlafie

Your problem occurs ONLY during acceleration?? Could it be possible that your car is NOT getting enough fuel or air mixture??. Could be a screwed up fuel pressure regulator OR vacuum line running to it or a lagging fuel pump. Maybe even PCV valve..who knows...
What RPM band does your problem seem most apparent? Does it clear up when you go to Wide Open Throttle? Your bogging could be due to a stuck EGR valve or carbon buildup in your EGR valve or a clogged line that runs behind the EGR to the exhaust manifold.
Troubleshooting this problem is gonna be a royal BEOYTCH!!...Find yourself someone extremely knowledgeable in tuning 240's...you're gonna need their expertise!!
Anyhow, hope this helps..
ID

i capped off my egr. but i will look into the fuel pump/fpr

wire harness didn't change anything.

[Prelude Guy]

Can you give any details on how to take off and cap off the EGR valve on a KA24E motor?

I am having the same problem. It happens when the car is cold too though.

Thanks,

Andy

[Matt_240]

prelude guy - just remove egr system. cap off all vacum lines. put a plate over side by the intake and plug the exhaust manifold side with a screw-on closed end/bent pipe.

weird thing.. after yesterdays fixing of part of the harness, i decided to check the ecu again for codes. and guess what? this time it wasn't 55.

i got 12 - Maf
32 - Egr
82 - Crank Position Sensor

I have a couple mafs to switch out so i'll try that. I know why the egr code is shooting out (because i dont have one). not sure about the crank position sensor though. isnt it in the distributor? uh... i'm gonna look into that. i have an extra distributor lying around anyway.

will update again.

[Matt_240]

oh crap, nevermind. crank position sensor was behind the motor. it was the camshaft position sensor thats in the distributor.

[Prelude Guy]

Originally Posted by Matt_240

prelude guy - just remove egr system. cap off all vacum lines. put a plate over side by the intake and plug the exhaust manifold side with a screw-on closed end/bent pipe.

Are there only 2 bolts holding the EGR on? Those are the only 2 that I see.

Can I use a piece of aluminum to cap it off?

Thanks for the help. I hope you figure it out.

Keep us posted.

Andy

[idlafie]

Originally Posted by Matt_240

i capped off my egr. but i will look into the fuel pump/fpr

wire harness didn't change anything.

HUH?? What did you do THAT for?? Did you know that your ECU programming takes into consideration that exhaust gases from your EGR are SUPPOSED to be recirculated back into your intake manifold to assist with engine management AND pollution control?? If the ECU isn't finding those recirculated gases the ECU will try to compensate for this. And as a result of this, your engine performance will suffer...as you are now discovering. Did your bogging problems start before OR after you disconnected your EGR?? If it was before, then your problems were due to a defective sensor and NOT your EGR. Just because a sensor isn't throwing a code, doesn't mean it hasn't gone bad. With today's modern engines, and their electronics/sensors, troubleshooting the problems are becoming more & more difficult. Trouble codes help but aren't exactly right at times.
Don't believe me?? Then read the following article posted by a pro...
http://www.asashop.org/autoinc/july2002/techtotech.cfm
Anyhow, hope this helps...
ID

[Matt_240]

yeah, only two bolts

im stumped. changed maf to no avail.

gonna check my fuel pressure next.

[Matt_240]

f*ck it. im tired of this ka motor. im gonna go sr.

[Yuri]

Ummm, SR's do it too..

[Prelude Guy]

I know how you feel, Matt. I am searching for an SR fornt clip too even though I can't afford it right now.

[Matt_240]

i know what the problem is. its my harness. did the giggle test and my car bogs...this is after full operating temperature.

but im tired of the ka motor in general. its time to step up for me.

but to test if its the wire harness, after it starts bogging constantly, stop somewhere, open your hood and giggle your harness around in different places. for me, its probably the injector harness.

good luck guys

[Al_S14]

didnt you say some shop redone your harness?
and whats suppose to happen once i "open your hood and giggle your harness around in different places" ?

[fliprayzin240sx]

Im willing to bet that its your water temp sensor. My car had the same issue. basically, ecu thinks its running cold so its dumping more fuel that its supposed to at operating temp causing you to bog.

[Al_S14]

why does it do it only in high rpm...above 4/5k . if it sprays more fuel then needed it will jsut run rich not misfire hmmm

and if ECT was faulty wouldnt engien temp gauge read wrong?

[Maxtype 240]

Originally Posted by Al_S14

why does it do it only in high rpm...above 4/5k . if it sprays more fuel then needed it will jsut run rich not misfire hmmm

and if ECT was faulty wouldnt engien temp gauge read wrong?

Coolant Temp Sensor (CTS) and the cockpit temp gauge are 2 different sensors.

The best way to check CTS is an OBD scan tool for 95-98 cars...

Jesse

[Al_S14]

yeah i was jsut about to tell you about it... did it this morning with Honda PGMTester. its working to spec . still need to check fuel pressure and coil , hope its one of those 2

[eurosil80]

my ka24e has the same problem...except now....it floods when i shut it off....and wehn i come back to start it it wont start up the first couple of cranks.... The temp sensor seems logical...ill give that a try.... what are the main causes of floodin?

[Matt_240]

Originally Posted by Al_S14

didnt you say some shop redone your harness?
and whats suppose to happen once i "open your hood and giggle your harness around in different places" ?

oh, they just redid a small section. not the injector wires cause they still "looked" ok. but most likely its not.

when car is bogging, pull over and giggle harness around. it will bog your car down if something is wrong. try just moving stuff around. see if you stumble onto a vacumn leak or bad section of your harness.

[Al_S14]

Originally Posted by eurosil80

my ka24e has the same problem...except now....it floods when i shut it off....and wehn i come back to start it it wont start up the first couple of cranks.... The temp sensor seems logical...ill give that a try.... what are the main causes of floodin?

leaking injectors is usually.

now that you mention it i noticed that it take lot longer for it to start even with my batt at 600cca.

wierd thing this is the boggin issue has been gettign better and better...when i first got the car 5k ago it was doing it in 2nd gear and loosing power consistently .... now it seems to happen mostly in 3rd at 5k plus . overall its much less severe now . takes longer for shit to happen

[trixxxr4_kids]

well maybe it means your motor just cant do it anymore , is the fuel delivery good? fuel filter or injectors maybe the rail , the pump, or did you do anything that would pinch a line? and if its turbo you might have a boost leak somewhere , a bad maf, or a Blow off valve that might get stuck open

[Yuri]

Mine seems to have been a turbo that wrenched itself loose from the manifold. I won't know for sure until tonight.

[DrSiD202]

my car boggs in every gear right at 4k rpm .. i'll watch your thread till you find an answer. everyone i know is baffled by my problem.

maybe ill start my own thread, noone has posted in a month, here.

[c0axiL]

i drove a dsm that had a similar problem. it started off fine but once it warmed up it the problem started. checked the whole ignition system and most of the fuel system but they didnt work. after a while of driving it like that it became a constant problem even when the car was cold. it ended up being a problem with the plug wires, even though when they were current tested they were fine. im not sure if this can help you in anyway, but good luck wiht your prob.

[SxMachine]

Has anyone found a solution 2 this prob yet i'm having similar issues. I've replaced injectors, fuel filter, fuel pump has around 1K miles, distributor cap, plugs, and wires so far. Whats left that u guys haven't tried?

[F3600]

Did you check, tested the water temp sensor ? Its a simple procedure in the FSm give it a look

[Al_S14]

Originally Posted by SxMachine

Has anyone found a solution 2 this prob yet i'm having similar issues. I've replaced injectors, fuel filter, fuel pump has around 1K miles, distributor cap, plugs, and wires so far. Whats left that u guys haven't tried?

well i fixed my problem. dont know how it happend but my car was nearly 15 degrees off timing. maybe previous owner replaced the distributor and didnt sent it correctly but it more then fixed the problem. first time i drove it after taht it was liek a new car .... got an awesome kick in the pants in first. almost like Vtec but now that i've had it running right for few weeks it doestn feel as quick.

[Yuri]

Mine ended up being a blown turbo gasket. On both sides of the turbo!

[ledzeppelin240]

I would check the ingition system, fuel, and O2 sensor. If everythig there checks out test the EGR valve and EGR control valve, then make sure the wiring harness where it connects to the ecm has a good connection. The CAS is located in the distributor just to clear that misinformation up. It uses an LED and a photo diode to transmit a digital signal to the ECM.

[einherjar]

Originally Posted by Matt_240

My car bogs. bad. around after 15-20mins of driving and car reaches operating temperature. buckles, chokes, fuel cuts, you name it, it does it.

i know there is closed loop/open loop. what are the components that change after closed loop?

i know the o2 sensor is one. anything else?

Any help is appreciated.

Hey Matt
Did you fix the problem? if so, what was it? :S