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Tech Talk Technical Discussion About The Nissan 240SX and Nissan Z Cars |
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Thread Tools | Display Modes |
01-05-2014, 02:57 PM | #121 |
Zilvia Junkie
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Can anyone help me with the Dakota tach adapter? Please tell me how you have it wired and switches adjusted. I have 95 s14 with 2003 vq35 and no matter how I wire it the tach at most just bounces around a little between 0-200 rpms. Light is flashing on adapter which means its getting signal "in".
Any help is much appreciated!!!!!!! |
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01-06-2014, 11:48 AM | #123 |
Zilvia Junkie
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I've tried three sources and the tach still doesn't work but the light on the adapter will flash green meaning its getting signal. #1 coil white/blue power, #1 coil signal and #1 injector yellow/red I think. If my colors are off here that's because I don't remember as I gave up about a week ago. I know while I was under the dash I had all correct info when trying to wire it up.
Can anyone who has wired it up give me pins, colors and info? Thanks guys |
01-06-2014, 11:52 AM | #124 |
Zilvia Junkie
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Btw this is the second VQ35 swap I've done and both times I converted the harness' myself and made them plug and play. The first was in my race car and I made a custom gauge cluster with autometer gauges and autometer tach adapter. It works off of the white/blue coil power wire. Well it did work for about 20 running hours and the last event I went to it took a shit. From what I read the autometer tachs take a shit and break. Looks like i'll be going Haltech and getting a racepac plug and play cluster....
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02-12-2014, 11:45 PM | #126 | |
Zilvia Junkie
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Quote:
An MSD adapter is needed to amplify that low volt in 12 volt signal but which box??? I recently picked up an MSD 8913 DIS TACH DRIVER for distributor less ignition systems. Any thoughts or advise |
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02-15-2014, 09:16 PM | #128 |
Zilvia Junkie
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Although you are right…what we are trying to do is get our stock tach to work.
I might have actually found what I am looking for!!! http://www.dakotadigital.com/index.c...rod/prd825.htm Plugs into the OBD2 port. Reads RPM signal from the ECU. Converts it to useable 4cyl gauge signal for the stock cluster. Now to order it and actually verify it actually works. |
02-16-2014, 03:55 PM | #129 | |
Zilvia Addict
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Quote:
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FS: Nismo R-Tune Camshafts for VQ35DE. |
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02-16-2014, 11:14 PM | #130 |
Zilvia Junkie
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04-29-2014, 11:58 AM | #131 |
Zilvia Addict
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Im looking to make my VQ build CA legal(BAR, smog, etc..). Apparently, you need to use OEM exhaust headers? not 100% on this but I know someone that BAR'd his LS and they said he had to use OEM headers to pass.
Wondering what issues and solutions are there to use OEM headers(DE or HR) in an S13.
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FS: Nismo R-Tune Camshafts for VQ35DE. |
03-02-2015, 07:50 AM | #133 |
Leaky Injector
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Can Renault Vel Satis VQ35 be used for the swap? Is it any different from 350Z engine?
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12.0@121mph 2.0 60ft, CA18 S13 Evo3 16G,XSPower ex mani, Nistune 950cc E85 |
03-02-2015, 01:23 PM | #134 |
Zilvia Addict
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i've been hearing some people having problems with mckinney mounts..and some even saying ebay mounts worked out better for them. anyone else have experience/opinions?
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FS: Nismo R-Tune Camshafts for VQ35DE. |
05-01-2015, 10:24 AM | #136 |
Zilvia Member
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www.schassisvq.com or the s chassis vq facebook page. That is where you want to go for more info. It's an active community.
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06-12-2018, 02:25 PM | #138 | ||
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Quote:
Quote:
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S13 Vert | SR | PE1420 | 5-Speed | 15x9.5 - 0 | |
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06-12-2018, 02:54 PM | #139 |
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12-14-2018, 03:37 AM | #141 |
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Hoping someone can help me out. I have a VQ swapped s13 and I'm having cooling issues. The coolant is not flowing into the radiator and the thermostat is not opening. Car has brand new koyo rad, brand new mishi low temp thermostat and brand new water pump. Is there something wrong with my hose routing? Could it be related to having no heater core? Instead of going in and out of the heater core I have one hose connecting those areas. Everything else is oem hose routing.
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12-17-2018, 08:34 AM | #144 |
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is the engine overheating due to this? or is it not getting to temp?
if the hoses that are on the back side of the t-stat housing are not hooked up, the t-stat will take a long time to open. |
12-18-2018, 01:40 PM | #148 |
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What you are describing is air in the system. Almost all VQ overheating issues are due to this. They are notoriously difficult to bleed.
The VQ in a Z/G (I believe) has a bleeder valve T'd in the hose before entering the heater core. Most people do away with that when they swap which makes them harder to bleed. What I did on mine is T in a bleeder valve in that smaller hose that runs from the T-stat to the larger upper return hose on the passenger side. I put it all the way up top, i.e.-where air wants to escape from. You don't necessarily need that, but it helps relieve air sooner. What you really should get if you don't have it is something like this: https://www.amazon.com/OEMTOOLS-8700...BE2GQEJFZNFMFR And get the front of the car nicely elevated. And, be patient. You may have to cycle the engine a couple of times before the t-stat sees the temperature required to open. |
12-18-2018, 01:50 PM | #149 |
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My VQ35HR swap has a bleeder valve/petcock plumbed in that rear coolant line, its the highest point in the coolant system and sits right behind the intake manifold, mounted to it. Definitely needs one.
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12-18-2018, 04:06 PM | #150 |
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I have a bleeder valve mounted already and have been trying to bleed with a no spill funnel with the front elevated. Wouldnt the coolant in the rad be getting warm without the therm opening? The coolant running thru the motor is hot but usually in the rad it's not even Luke warm... would removing the therm help? This is a track only car hence not having a heater core. Thanks for the input
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