Missing and Stalling at idle.I've Spent 2,000$+trying to fix. Its Cursed HELP!

[Landers]

^^^^^Word?? Care to Elaborate?

[redsx13]

**update**

I put in the new (used) CAS in my car and timed it to 15* btdc, i didn't do anything. WTF! I was really hoping on that being my problem!

The only code it ever pulled with the stock ecu was 55. And just to clarify, the standalone didn't end up working fine, the shop told me it would, but then it was installed and didn't end up really doing anything. but since it was a d-Jetro (doesn't use maf) that told me it wasn't my maf or maf wiring.

Originally Posted by handinpants

Solder in a consult cable to your ecu, grab a snapon Mt2500 set it to generic vehicle, and look at what's going on

I dont really have access to expensive scantools like the snapon mt2500.nor do i know how to wire a consult port.

[Om1kron]

Originally Posted by Hawaiian240

But why would it run well with the Power FC hooked up??? Does the Power FC fix all the problems? I don't think so.

I'm pretty sure the engine has modifications which the stock ecu was and isn't tuned for to handle. And there is a possibility the ECU is fried.

[redsx13]

OK, for those of you who don't want to read through the whole post to figure out where I'm at on this problem (i dont blame you), here it the current status of the car....

Problem-

-At idle, car searches between 700-900 and misfires randomly (sometimes it misses every 2-3 seconds, and sometimes its a constant miss which happens every second). the air/fuel ratio fluctuates from 13.9 to 15.0 and everything in between.

-At idle, when you unplug the o2, the car stops missing, but still searches. air/fuel ratio is around 10.6 to 11.5.

-When you hold the rpms at a set point (ex. 4000 rpms) it will miss around every 2-3 seconds. (car still seems to search, but im not positive)


Solution-
Here is what I haven't done-

-Replace wiring harness (i pulled the thing apart and checked it)
-Replace the o2
-Replace the IACV

Solution-
Here is what i have done-

-cleaned the IACV
-replaced the CAS
-replaced TPS (bad)
-replaced MAF (bad)
-replaced injectors (370's)
-replaced ecu
-replaced coolant temp sensor
-replaced spark plugs (ngk iridium)
-replaced fuel pump (walbro)
-replaced injectors (440's)
-checked for boost leaks
-Checked codes (only 55 [all good])
-checked for vacuum leaks
-checked wiring harness (pulled apart, looked good, but did not replace)
-checked vacuum hoses (correct hookup locations)
-checked timing
-checked grounds
-checked alternator
-checked fuel pressure regulator (40 psi @ idle)
-checked timing chain (just top two timing marks, not bottom)
-checked power and grounds on ecu plug
-checked Greedy Bov (closed all the way)
-checked turbo (for runout/ missing teeth)
-checked compression (150psi x4)
-re-checked ecu (good)
-re-checked maf (good)
-checked coil packs
-checked coil pack harness
-checked ignitor
-checked to make sure all cylinders are firing (yes)
-checked to make sure all cylinders getting fuel (yes)
-installed and tuned Apex-i Power FC L-jetro
-installed Power FC D-Jetro (no more maf)

If you had a problem that was similar to mine or you think you know whats wrong with my car, please discredit anything i have checked/done, i could have missed something.

Any advice is appreciated

[redsx13]

anyone?.....

[DrifterE]

Try checking your exhaust side for leaks if you haven't yet man. Sometimes having a real bad exhaust leak can cause your idle to be rough. And you not making enough boost might connect to that too. Check the whole thing. Maybe your cat is clogged if you still have it too. That could do that too. Check the gaskets on that side. The turbo for exhaust soot, and oils, turbo manifold. You know the drill...thats assuming if you have done it or not man. Best of luck to you. I'm having issues too.

[mbmbmb23]

MAF wire not adequately shielded?

[a_ghost]

i had a similiar problem with my ka-t, it ended up as a vacuum leak.
try using seafoam on your engine, to spot engine or exhaust leaks

another way, to spot vacuum leaks is to blast air into your intake manifold with the throttle open and listen for air leaks.

[redsx13]

Originally Posted by DrifterE

Try checking your exhaust side for leaks if you haven't yet man. Sometimes having a real bad exhaust leak can cause your idle to be rough. And you not making enough boost might connect to that too. Check the whole thing. Maybe your cat is clogged if you still have it too. That could do that too. Check the gaskets on that side. The turbo for exhaust soot, and oils, turbo manifold. You know the drill...thats assuming if you have done it or not man. Best of luck to you. I'm having issues too.

I was actually thinking the same thing, this is what it did...

-pulled the exhaust manifold
-had manifold flange's machined flat
-had turbo elbow flange machined flat
-replaced the main mani gasket (oem 7 layer s15)
-replaced the mani to turbo gasket (oem nissan)
-replaced the turbo to elbow gasket (oem nissan)
-replaced the oil lines (steel braided)
-checked turbo

no leaks

[redsx13]

Originally Posted by a_ghost

i had a similiar problem with my ka-t, it ended up as a vacuum leak.
try using seafoam on your engine, to spot engine or exhaust leaks

another way, to spot vacuum leaks is to blast air into your intake manifold with the throttle open and listen for air leaks.

I did do a boost leak test (pressurized the whole intake system and listened for leaks)

i don't have any leaks in the vacuum hoses (there are only 3, and i have checked them over and over) maybe i have a leak in my intake manifold gasket? i didn't hear anything while doing the boost leak test...

[SoguRacing]

maybe your car is running lean. by a bottle of propane and attach it to the intake manifold port and slowly increase the amount of propane and see if the engine doesnt miss anymore.

[redsx13]

Originally Posted by SoguRacing

maybe your car is running lean. by a bottle of propane and attach it to the intake manifold port and slowly increase the amount of propane and see if the engine doesn't miss anymore.

i thought it was running lean too, so i dropped 250$ on an AEM wide-band A/F ratio gauge. 14.2-14.8 at idle, it will run around 11.0 when i unplug the o2, when i do this it actually stops missing too.

[DrifterE]

Originally Posted by redsx13

I was actually thinking the same thing, this is what it did...

-pulled the exhaust manifold
-had manifold flange's machined flat
-had turbo elbow flange machined flat
-replaced the main mani gasket (oem 7 layer s15)
-replaced the mani to turbo gasket (oem nissan)
-replaced the turbo to elbow gasket (oem nissan)
-replaced the oil lines (steel braided)
-checked turbo

no leaks

Do you still have the cat attached?

What about your blow off valve? What kind is it?

Cuz i'm kinda going thru the same, and my hunch is on my blow off valve, I have the GReedy RS, I notice you listed you have a GReedy, but what kind? I have noticed that when I close mine just about all the way, it gets better, but mine isn't like yours, mine bounces. I can drive it around, but the idle bounces sometimes, uncontrollably.

[rc1honda]

I don't know if you had the shop do this for you, but did you do the start up procedure with the Power F?. Also you have to correct for injector size and latency in the PFC. Also timing is a huge issue on the SR. Make sure mechanical timing is dead on. Also check your timing chain tensioner. Here is a link to the Power FC guide and the start up procedure.
http://zilvia.net/f/tech-talk/226628...tup-guide.html
I don't know many shops that tune the PFC and the instrictions are in Japanese so the could of did it worng. After that i would change all gaskets and fluids. Also check your spark plug gapping. I would say if you got new parts everwhere else with no leaks and good spark it has to be eletrical.

[redsx13]

Originally Posted by rc1honda

I don't know if you had the shop do this for you, but did you do the start up procedure with the Power F?. Also you have to correct for injector size and latency in the PFC. Also timing is a huge issue on the SR. Make sure mechanical timing is dead on. Also check your timing chain tensioner. Here is a link to the Power FC guide and the start up procedure.
http://zilvia.net/f/tech-talk/226628...tup-guide.html
I don't know many shops that tune the PFC and the instrictions are in Japanese so the could of did it worng. After that i would change all gaskets and fluids. Also check your spark plug gapping. I would say if you got new parts everwhere else with no leaks and good spark it has to be eletrical.

Its not the Power FC, it sounds stupid, but i bought the pfc to fix the problem. it runs the same with stock ecu.

DrifterE-I do have an rs bov, but mine is closed all the way, thats not whats doing it.

i have pretty much checked everything, but heres what i think it could be...

-my Tomei camshafts
-my engine harness

I am going to replace those two things and get back to you guys with the news.

[Bigsyke]

OP are you paying for all of this?

Your reaching the point where its time for a part out, or suicide letter. Im not poor by any means, I've had sex with supermodel replicas, which in fact cost more. I hesitate to put gas in my car let alone change my tabs, so I still dont know why you havent tried the basics.

Run a bottle of chevron techron through, seafoam- change oil/filter fuel filter and fully flush with honda type II coolant, make sure you burp the system correctly with the snap on funnel tool. Grab a bottle of deep creep and soak the IACV pipe, after all this switch out the o2 with a $30 fucking dollar part.

[mondojackal]

Wait...all of this, and you haven't changed out the O2 sensor yet?

[Bigsyke]

If I have issues with my car, I found its BEST to not throw money at the problem. Give it a few weeks if its still drivable and suddenly the solution will apear, its always the dumbest solution in these cases.

[redsx13]

Originally Posted by Bigsyke

OP are you paying for all of this?
I still dont know why you havent tried the basics.

Run a bottle of chevron techron through, seafoam- change oil/filter fuel filter and fully flush with honda type II coolant, make sure you burp the system correctly with the snap on funnel tool. Grab a bottle of deep creep and soak the IACV pipe, after all this switch out the o2 with a $30 fucking dollar part.

Yes I am paying for all of this, and i am fucking broke because of it.BTW I changed the oil/oil filter, coolant, burped the system, cleaned the IACV. I just didn't list all of that because i thought it was irrelevant. I haven't put any gas additives through it because i didn't want to create any more variables.I have a few questions though....

1. what is deep creep?
2.Where can i get an o2 for 30$, im assuming you mean universal right? I was always under the inpression that you had to buy the oem sr one(idk why). you know the SR 02 is three wire right?
3.what do you mean by "soak the IACV pipe"?

mondojackal, You are correct, I have not replaced the 02, but for good reason, i did a lot of searching, and have never found someone with a bad o2 that has had such drastic effects on Idle. when an O2 goes bad it usually just causes a car to run rich. My car does not run rich.

[brainscratch]

sounds like the harness. i had a similar problem all because of a small harness short that we couldn't find visually, had to go through and check the whole thing with a meter, found some strange voltage fluctuation, replaced the stock harness with a brand new stock harness and it ran like a dream. mine was running super rich, backfiring, surging, and stalling out like crazy. some times it would be fine, sometimes not, thats the beauty of electrical problems. might as well replace the harness after all the other money youve thrown at it, wouldn't hurt.

[godsmack]

I'm pretty sure i said this before but it's more than likely ur 02 sensor. you said the car runs better without it in which means that it is probably sending wrong information to ur ecu and in turn is causing ur car to act up. iacv if bad will usually cause the car to have a low idle. a way to check iacv is to unplug one of the plugs and if there's a difference in idle it should be working if not replace it.

[SmogSUX]

Just throwing this out there...I had a semi similar problem on my Fc..have you changed the wiring to the fuel pump at all? I directly wired my fuel pump up, but the Haynes manual fucked me because their wiring diagram of the fuel pump had the wires backwards...I had the fuel pump wired backwards due to this and somehow my car ran...just like ass though and I was pulling my hair out dicking around with the timing maps and fuel maps..

So yeah...check the wiring to the pump.

[beyondstock]

I'm having the same problem, maybe a little worse. I on the other hand have nistune so I can watch timing, TPS, MAF, Injector duty and so forth. it runs ok sometimes and them sometimes the timing goes crazy and the car does what your saying. I replaced CAS because thats the code I kept getting, but same problem. I believe I'm going to get a new wiring harness myself....

[nismostate]

check for boost leak with soapy water in a spray bottle. bad injector oring maybe? do u have the back of the head grounded with that little wire?

[jerryk]

Originally Posted by brainscratch

sounds like the harness. i had a similar problem all because of a small harness short that we couldn't find visually, had to go through and check the whole thing with a meter, found some strange voltage fluctuation, replaced the stock harness with a brand new stock harness and it ran like a dream. mine was running super rich, backfiring, surging, and stalling out like crazy. some times it would be fine, sometimes not, thats the beauty of electrical problems. might as well replace the harness after all the other money youve thrown at it, wouldn't hurt.

Where did you get the new harness?

[miklos]

I had a bad idle and found that the wires going to my injector plugs were spliced and taped together.....no solder.....just tape. I soldered all the splices and now my car runs smoothly.

[angelom88]

hey im sry 2 say it but sometimes in ur case where i bet somewhere close to 3,000 its time 2 throw in the towel, and swappin back ur ka. but i will say this alot of ppl (like those mechanics) are looking 2 get a cheap sr which they can easily fix. im surprise 2 hear that it was wasnt ur ecu but id check ur wiring harness for any broken solder points or something like.

[Silverstreek]

code 55 says this: 55 - Other Malfunction. CONSULT Terminal Required

i dunno if it's worth it to you to look at this, but try going to this link:
http://lib.store.yahoo.net/lib/phase...s14sr20det.pdf

and go to page 208 and follow the flow chart. you'll want to do the steps that show an "x" going across the little picture of a scanner (since you probably don't have access to a consult).
also since you haven't checked the ho2, try checking out page 338's heated oxygen sensor section to check the resistance of the ho2. if i understand page 194 under ho2, it looks like the o2 sensor is supposed to fluctuate voltage from 0v-0.3v to 0.6-0.9v when cross counting. if you have access to an oscilloscope you could check that as well and see if it's in range.

other than that, might just try starting at the beginning of that section and going through the flow charts and trying stuff. without access to a scan tool to see input/output displays, can't really get a good idea of where to start. but since you said unplugging the o2 "seems" to help it, that's where i'd maybe start. oh and that fsm should work for either s13 or s14 sr20det's per p2m's site.

[racerocket]

i have a similar problem whit mine and turned out that my harness is bad so replace the harness and see if that fixes the problem glwc

[turbocrazy07]

man sounds like a nightmare, best of luck to you in getting this fixed.