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Chat General Discussion About The Nissan 240SX and Nissan Z Cars |
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08-27-2017, 07:32 AM | #21302 | |
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Quote:
Remove airboxes, fit directly on MAF with adapter, etc: Any cone, HKS, Apexi, Injen, all the way to Pilot or whatever at AutoZone. Me, I'd go HKS, or Injen because they are easy to fit on available adapters.
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08-27-2017, 12:44 PM | #21303 | |
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Quote:
trying to keep the stock air box bruh.
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08-28-2017, 04:35 AM | #21305 |
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That $50 is getting you a better filter, that has a million mile life on it. Barring heavy dust, you only need to maintain it when you change your oil, or every 10k miles. I put one on my truck in 2004, and with minimal maintenance, it is still fine. You'll spend that $50 on paper filters pretty fast too
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08-28-2017, 06:50 AM | #21306 |
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Does anyone have info on autogauge widebands? Are they any good for accurate readings? I have one installed by previous owner but it shows very odd readings because the lambda might be bad.
Should I buy a new 4.9 lsu lambda or completely new wideband if it sucks? E: more specifically it's smoke series |
08-28-2017, 10:47 AM | #21307 |
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So apparently I assumed that the test pipe I got would allow me to mount up my AEM wide band... and unfortunately I assumed incorrectly. The wide band bung is incorrect. So my question is, is there any test pipe out there what allows me to use me AEM wideband without any modification? Or am I stuck with chopping the bung off and welding the correct threadings? (Bought the AEM off of my friend so I need to source the weld on bung.)
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08-28-2017, 10:56 AM | #21308 |
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^ I'd strongly suggest welding in a bung on the downpipe. Ideally, you want as few flex sections and gasketed flanges as possible between the engine and the wideband. Any exhaust leak can siphon clean air into the exhaust system and skew your wideband readings. If you put your sensor in your test pipe, you're placing it after yet another flange that could leak.
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08-28-2017, 11:25 AM | #21310 | |
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Well said, I was just thinking about that as well. lol I'm probably if not already leaking from the test pipe flanges always scraping it on speed bumps. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
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08-31-2017, 12:55 AM | #21311 |
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Who has experience with the wiring for the ac system on 89-90 s13's? Everything I find is for 91+ The fsm schematic is very vague. My system is charged and when I manually kick the compressor on, it cools. I KNOW the 6 pin relay is getting power, ground, and has continuity to to the compressor. I also know it isn't the pressure switch. I've found a wire coming from the control unit that switches when I engage/disengage ac, although it gives power(cant remember if 5v or 12v now after a few beers) when it's disengaged on the unit and no power when engaged. I'm pretty sure the issue is between the unit and the relay, I just haven't been able to pinpoint what wire exact to look for. I live in FL and I sweat easily. Help me.
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08-31-2017, 11:55 AM | #21312 |
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What do I need to widen front track width? I know at least lower control arms but do I _need_ stuff like inner tie rods and or ends? Plus how much can I "push out" my front wheel with these arms?
I already have 10mm spacers to clear my calipers so "more" spacers is not an option. |
08-31-2017, 12:19 PM | #21313 | |
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Quote:
Which will push the wheel out about the same amount as s14 flca's and give you more angle. Keep in mind these are all pushing out the bottom of the wheel. If you're trying to make up for bad offset wheels spacers are really the only option, unless you want to use a combination of what's listed above and these to push the top of the wheel out too: https://www.gktech-usa.com/s-chassis...trut-tops.html
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08-31-2017, 12:39 PM | #21314 | |
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Fronts are 18x9 et20 and rears 18x10 et25 so I'm trying to match the front wheels camber/offset by doing this, so it would only need to push out a few millimeters |
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08-31-2017, 12:44 PM | #21315 | |
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Quote:
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08-31-2017, 01:03 PM | #21316 |
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I thought about it but doesn't 25mm spacers kill bearings fast? Or so I've heard, plus I was thinking about buying the control arms maybe sooner or later, that's why I thought about asking what else I need to buy :d
Edit: forgot to mention my car is indeed S14a and I have D2 coilovers so I can adjust the camber on top but not too much really, if it can get to - 2.3 degrees then I'd be happy |
08-31-2017, 01:21 PM | #21317 |
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Won't kill the bearings any faster than low offset wheels. A 17x9 +30 with a 25mm spacer is effectively exactly the same as a 17x9 +5 offset wheel.
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09-05-2017, 07:42 PM | #21318 | ||
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Quote:
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https://youtu.be/ |
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09-06-2017, 04:42 AM | #21319 | |
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Quote:
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09-07-2017, 11:57 AM | #21320 |
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Small Questions Thread (SEARCH FIRST! Use this instead of making NEW threads)
Whats the best way to go about painting my interior? Current plan is to flap wheel the whole interior, spray 2k primer, sand the primer even to hide blemishes from the flap wheel and then spray 2k paint over the primer. Will this be decent looking and fairly durable?
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09-08-2017, 04:47 AM | #21321 | |
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Filler primer, say maybe 3 - 4 coats, and then at least give it a good cleaning and a bit of tack, then paint about 8 coats of your exterior or contrast color paint. Put in some gucci metal or 'glass covers made by the storefront guys here, seats, dress as you like and go race.
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09-08-2017, 01:03 PM | #21322 |
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I am in a rut of either going gt2871r or s15 spec r turbo. However, I know my clutch is basic at this moment so I need recommendations for a clutch kit + flywheel. I've been thinking about the ORC 409 clutch since it's all in one unit but I would like other peoples' opinions about clutch/flywheel options.
Keep in mind, I only have a stock S13 SR20DET and I plan to upgrade the turbo over the next few months.
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09-08-2017, 02:36 PM | #21323 |
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Much much power do you want to make? ie. how much money do you want to spend?
You can make 300 whp bone stock with 550 injectors. For this the S15 turbo and Exedy Stage 2 would be my pick. 300-400 whp (might as well go for 400) requires the 2871R, 740 injectors, cams, metal hg, studs and GReddy IM (optional). An Exedy Hyper Single or ACT 6-puck would be my clutch choice. |
09-08-2017, 04:36 PM | #21325 |
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I used Competition Stage 4 clutches on my S15 and 2871 setups. A couple sprung, one unsprung. Loved those things. Nice stiff pedal feel, grabbed like a sonofabitch.
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09-11-2017, 01:42 PM | #21328 | |
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^Not sure but I know SPL sells brake deflectors to guide air to the brakes.
http://www.splparts.com/products/spl...2-r33-r34.html Quote:
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09-11-2017, 01:47 PM | #21329 | ||
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Quote:
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Maybe the reviews I came across were early versions and the length has been adjusted since then? |
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09-11-2017, 02:16 PM | #21330 |
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Anyone know anybody running either of these manifolds on an sr20det? If you have a video link, please let me know!
https://page.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/u100101405 (Octopus manifold) https://page.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/n219542358 (Long manifold)
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180sx type x kouki, 1jz, 2jz, 300zx, clutch, faq, ka24de, n/a, non-turbo, question, redtop s13 180sx silvia, s14, search, solenoid, starter, z32, zenki |
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