clutch pedal won't pop back up. - Zilvia.net Forums | Nissan 240SX (Silvia) and Z (Fairlady) Car Forum

Mfabsr20 · 01-19-2015, 07:40 PM

Please no flaming, I have searched the forums for my issue, and have pretty much figured out what the problem is. I would like to just know if anyone else has ran into the same problem.

When I drive my car normaly, everything is fine. I am able to press down on the clutch, and it pops back up smoothly. The problem is when I am driving the car hard, the clutch pedal will not pop back up, and I have to physically lift it with my left foot. Now, this isnt primo. I have bled the clutch multiple times, and still the issue persists. Through my research, I can only come up with that the clutch master, and/or slave are worn out and need to need replaced. So I am just go to replace both. I will check back after I install them to see if that remedied the problem.

If anyone has any input, it would be much appreciated.

Javi802 · 01-20-2015, 07:05 PM

you pretty much solved your problem.

Im definitely going with bad clutch master.

r20crazy · 01-20-2015, 07:34 PM

there is either still air in the system, or u need to adjust the clutch pedal under the dash. it is very hard to get all the air out with the factory clutch dampner box if u haven't removed it already. to get all air out, u need to push the clutch fork all the way in by hand when bleeder released and retighten bleeder b4 releasing it while someones holding the pedal down. hope that's of some help

Javi802 · 01-20-2015, 08:13 PM

And if you do still have the damper, just go ahead and remove it. Its simple.

And to reiterate what he said...

After removing damper and connecting it all back together

fill master cylinder up with brake fluid, leaving lid off

pump the clutch pedal several times and on the last pump, hold the pedal down.
Then you or somebody else, loosen the bleeder valve on the slave, letting air escape. (its best to have a clear hose connected to the bleeder valve, so you can see whether or not air is coming out.)
Close bleeder valve and repeat this over until no air is coming from hose. Only fluid

kruked · 01-22-2015, 06:43 PM

Brake/clutch fade.

Are you N/A or boosted?

Mfabsr20 · 01-22-2015, 08:14 PM

N/a....bone stock ka

!Zar! · 01-22-2015, 08:40 PM

Did you even change that stuff yet?

nick Ritter · 01-22-2015, 08:47 PM

i had similar problem awhile bcd on one of my swaps ended up being a sticking throwout bearing

replace those 3 things and you'll be golden !

Mfabsr20 · 01-24-2015, 10:59 PM

Thank you for everyones input....

So, today I was able to address the problem I was having. After getting the car in the air, the first thing I did was take the dust shield off the transmission. I was looking to see how the clutch was actuating. Primarily looking to see if the throw out bearing was sticking anywhere. It works smooth, just like it should. I figured at that point my problem was definitely the clutch master and/or slave cylinders. In about an hours time, with the help of a buddy; the install of a new clutch master and slave cylinders was wrapped up. After doing the necessary bleed of the of the system. I am happy to report that the clutch pedal has better feel than it ever did. Doesnt get stuck in the floor, and clutch kicks like a boss...

HellaSexyS13 · 01-31-2015, 07:33 PM

i have the same issue, sr20 tho, replaced the master and slave already and still sticks at the bottom, clutch works still but pedal only moves and inch max

01-19-2015, 07:40 PM	#1
Mfabsr20 Join Date: Dec 2012 Location: Portland, Oregon Posts: 21 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	clutch pedal won't pop back up. Please no flaming, I have searched the forums for my issue, and have pretty much figured out what the problem is. I would like to just know if anyone else has ran into the same problem. When I drive my car normaly, everything is fine. I am able to press down on the clutch, and it pops back up smoothly. The problem is when I am driving the car hard, the clutch pedal will not pop back up, and I have to physically lift it with my left foot. Now, this isnt primo. I have bled the clutch multiple times, and still the issue persists. Through my research, I can only come up with that the clutch master, and/or slave are worn out and need to need replaced. So I am just go to replace both. I will check back after I install them to see if that remedied the problem. If anyone has any input, it would be much appreciated.

01-22-2015, 06:43 PM	#5
kruked Nissanaholic! Join Date: Feb 2012 Location: someone's sisters' pants Posts: 2,288 Trader Rating: (37) Feedback Score: 37 reviews	Brake/clutch fade. Are you N/A or boosted? __________________ I like my bikes how I like my b¡tches...naked! 2014 Triumph Street Triple

01-22-2015, 08:40 PM	#7
!Zar! Post Whore! Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: North Korea Posts: 14,579 Trader Rating: (27) Feedback Score: 27 reviews	Did you even change that stuff yet? __________________

01-31-2015, 07:33 PM	#10
HellaSexyS13 Zilvia Addict Join Date: Oct 2010 Location: New Jersey Age: 35 Posts: 710 Trader Rating: (14) Feedback Score: 14 reviews	i have the same issue, sr20 tho, replaced the master and slave already and still sticks at the bottom, clutch works still but pedal only moves and inch max __________________

01-20-2015, 07:05 PM	#2
Javi802 Zilvia Junkie Join Date: Jul 2012 Location: Oklahoma Age: 32 Posts: 472 Trader Rating: (10) Feedback Score: 10 reviews	you pretty much solved your problem. Im definitely going with bad clutch master.

01-20-2015, 08:13 PM	#4
Javi802 Zilvia Junkie Join Date: Jul 2012 Location: Oklahoma Age: 32 Posts: 472 Trader Rating: (10) Feedback Score: 10 reviews	And if you do still have the damper, just go ahead and remove it. Its simple. And to reiterate what he said... After removing damper and connecting it all back together fill master cylinder up with brake fluid, leaving lid off pump the clutch pedal several times and on the last pump, hold the pedal down. Then you or somebody else, loosen the bleeder valve on the slave, letting air escape. (its best to have a clear hose connected to the bleeder valve, so you can see whether or not air is coming out.) Close bleeder valve and repeat this over until no air is coming from hose. Only fluid

01-22-2015, 08:14 PM	#6
Mfabsr20 Join Date: Dec 2012 Location: Portland, Oregon Posts: 21 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	N/a....bone stock ka

01-22-2015, 08:47 PM	#8
nick Ritter Leaky Injector Join Date: Dec 2014 Location: St. Paul Age: 31 Posts: 101 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	i had similar problem awhile bcd on one of my swaps ended up being a sticking throwout bearing replace those 3 things and you'll be golden !

01-24-2015, 10:59 PM	#9
Mfabsr20 Join Date: Dec 2012 Location: Portland, Oregon Posts: 21 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	Thank you for everyones input.... So, today I was able to address the problem I was having. After getting the car in the air, the first thing I did was take the dust shield off the transmission. I was looking to see how the clutch was actuating. Primarily looking to see if the throw out bearing was sticking anywhere. It works smooth, just like it should. I figured at that point my problem was definitely the clutch master and/or slave cylinders. In about an hours time, with the help of a buddy; the install of a new clutch master and slave cylinders was wrapped up. After doing the necessary bleed of the of the system. I am happy to report that the clutch pedal has better feel than it ever did. Doesnt get stuck in the floor, and clutch kicks like a boss...