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Old 02-26-2010, 10:30 PM   #2731
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sorry for this non nissan post but just wanted to share job i just finished friends CRX fully built B20 vtec turbo i did the intercooler mounting brackets, charge pipes with bov flange, and downpipe so far possibly more in near future.
















thanks for looking!
love this thread keep up the good work guys
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Old 02-26-2010, 11:08 PM   #2732
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wow^ nice welds


I <3 You fab thread
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Old 02-26-2010, 11:11 PM   #2733
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God I fucking hate those things lol
Especially when you're cutting stainless all day..... Thins like 1.5'' thick solid SS round stock.. Fun times...

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I have both chop saw and metal band saw and neither seemed to like 304 stainless one bit. With the chop saw I just kept melting the nickle and then it would work-harden and I wouldnt get anywhere, and the band saws HSS blades would just loose all the teeth. I ended up cutting it with a hack saw and a tungsten-carbide blade which totally sucked and took 30 minutes to do one cut on 3" tubing.

I think I'm going to try a silican-carbide cutting disk in the chop saw and see how that works.
I haven't came across anything that cuts SS easily.. It's never fun. And always sucks...

I have been tempted to try a dry cut blade for shits and giggles..
It's probably not suited well for SS. Whatever.. SS can go fuck it's couch...

I had band saw blade that was "tolerable" on SS... Worked better-ish... Had a decent life. I can't remember for the life of me, who made it...

My next investment will be to fund the development of a real working light sabre.. Then SS can eat shit and die..
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Old 02-27-2010, 12:05 AM   #2734
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How about a laser cutter?
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Old 02-27-2010, 12:19 AM   #2735
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What are you guys using to cut Stainless Steel tubing?
We use to cut our pipe with a chop saw till I bought a sweet ass band saw. But both work great for me.
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Old 02-27-2010, 09:44 AM   #2736
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What type of blade are you using in the bandsaw? 32tooth HHS? I guess I'll give that another go with a new blade next time.

Nickel sucks, just work hardens then its like cutting through the wall of china with a chissle.
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Old 02-27-2010, 09:52 AM   #2737
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we use a cold saw. have you guy's gave that a shot yet

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QQz9x...eature=related

YouTube - Makita LC1230 TCT Metal Cutting Chop Saw - great demo and review
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Old 02-27-2010, 02:22 PM   #2738
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I have both chop saw and metal band saw and neither seemed to like 304 stainless one bit. With the chop saw I just kept melting the nickle and then it would work-harden and I wouldnt get anywhere, and the band saws HSS blades would just loose all the teeth. I ended up cutting it with a hack saw and a tungsten-carbide blade which totally sucked and took 30 minutes to do one cut on 3" tubing.

I think I'm going to try a silican-carbide cutting disk in the chop saw and see how that works.
never had too much difficulty with a chop saw, other than it's a major pain to get it to cut perfectly square. on my band saw, i use a morse matrix II bimetal blade with 10/14T pitch. only time i have a problem is if i feed too hard or have the speed to high, especially before the blade breaks-in. if that happens, i start to lose teeth. works great on most tubing. for al. tubing it's just a little coarse, but if i feed lightly enough, no problem. works well as long as it's not hardened metal.

32t seems a bit fine, maybe that's your problem, it's like trying to file the tubing at that pitch in my opinion. i guess you could run 24 (or 20-24) as that seems to be the rule of thumb but the 10-14 works for me, i just pay attention to the chips so i can adjust feed or blade speed
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Old 02-27-2010, 08:27 PM   #2739
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How about a laser cutter?
lol yeah mines coming in next week. 2 of them actually
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Old 02-27-2010, 10:09 PM   #2740
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never had too much difficulty with a chop saw, other than it's a major pain to get it to cut perfectly square. on my band saw, i use a morse matrix II bimetal blade with 10/14T pitch. only time i have a problem is if i feed too hard or have the speed to high, especially before the blade breaks-in. if that happens, i start to lose teeth. works great on most tubing. for al. tubing it's just a little coarse, but if i feed lightly enough, no problem. works well as long as it's not hardened metal.

32t seems a bit fine, maybe that's your problem, it's like trying to file the tubing at that pitch in my opinion. i guess you could run 24 (or 20-24) as that seems to be the rule of thumb but the 10-14 works for me, i just pay attention to the chips so i can adjust feed or blade speed
I only have issues with 304 stainless. Chop saws dont really work because they create to much heat and cause it to work harden unless you have the correct wheel, and most band saw blades are not strong enough to cut through.

The biggest issue is heat, there is a lot of nickel in 304 stainless and the hotter it gets the harder it gets, hence the issue with the chop saw. Its also much stronger than most band saw blades to begin with so I just loose teeth no matter what.

I'm really interested to see if there are blades/wheels that can cut through stainless with out much issue. The only solution I've found is a Tungsten Carbide blade in a hack saw and thats not much of one really.
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Old 02-27-2010, 10:39 PM   #2741
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Circular Saw Blades for Slugger and Evolution Saws at Van Sant Enterprises, Inc.

There you go.. Cold cut blades.. Some made specifically for stainless steel...
Not cheap. But from the videos I've seen. They work effortlessly. Without creating enough heat to work harden it..
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Old 02-27-2010, 10:46 PM   #2742
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Circular Saw Blades for Slugger and Evolution Saws at Van Sant Enterprises, Inc.

There you go.. Cold cut blades.. Some made specifically for stainless steel...
Not cheap. But from the videos I've seen. They work effortlessly. Without creating enough heat to work harden it..

i use a cold saw for everything.. the best saw you can own.
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Old 02-27-2010, 10:58 PM   #2743
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i use a cold saw for everything.. the best saw you can own.
Do you do a lot of stainless?
I'm considering one of these over a band saw... But stainless is my most used material..
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Old 02-27-2010, 11:18 PM   #2744
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Do you do a lot of stainless?
I'm considering one of these over a band saw... But stainless is my most used material..

we did at one point for a all stainless hand rail for this high end house. cut over 1000 cuts of 2'' od tubing with the makita cold saw.
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Old 02-28-2010, 07:27 AM   #2745
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I have a Dake horizontal band saw that I have used for cutting everything and it works great. On the other hand we have a Dake automatic cold saw at work and that thing is fucking amazing! Although we dont use it to cut stainless everything else is a breeze. If and when I move out on my own a cold saw will be the first or second investment I make.
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Old 02-28-2010, 09:02 AM   #2746
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4" stainless DP i made for my dads race car yesterday






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Old 02-28-2010, 10:01 AM   #2747
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Circular Saw Blades for Slugger and Evolution Saws at Van Sant Enterprises, Inc.

There you go.. Cold cut blades.. Some made specifically for stainless steel...
Not cheap. But from the videos I've seen. They work effortlessly. Without creating enough heat to work harden it..
Thanks for the link!

Sadly I dont plan on doing much stainless and $145 is way to expensive
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Old 02-28-2010, 10:33 AM   #2748
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4" stainless DP i made for my dads race car yesterday






holy shit that is a huge fucking torch
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Old 02-28-2010, 04:40 PM   #2749
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I only have issues with 304 stainless. Chop saws dont really work because they create to much heat and cause it to work harden unless you have the correct wheel, and most band saw blades are not strong enough to cut through.

The biggest issue is heat, there is a lot of nickel in 304 stainless and the hotter it gets the harder it gets, hence the issue with the chop saw. Its also much stronger than most band saw blades to begin with so I just loose teeth no matter what.

I'm really interested to see if there are blades/wheels that can cut through stainless with out much issue. The only solution I've found is a Tungsten Carbide blade in a hack saw and thats not much of one really.
i don't know what else to tell you, my band saw blades seem to work just fine on 304, 321, al, chromoly. maybe you're feeding too fast on a band saw. what's the width on the blade you're using? are you trying to cut tubing or solid stock? even the abrasive chop saws i used to use have not had a problem with work hardening 304 tubing to the point it can't be cut. only time it's been difficult is with solid stock. are you cutting tubing or pipe?
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Old 02-28-2010, 04:44 PM   #2750
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Get Bendtech software, it will make your tubes fit like a pro from the start. And like Jonnie said, cut tubes about an inch or so long and slowly work your way down. If you have a good eye and can use a cut off wheel like a surgeon you have no need for a notcher.

Which bendtech software do you use and why. I was looking at them for a while and could not decide if they would be helpful to me. I mostly build roll cages
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Old 02-28-2010, 04:54 PM   #2751
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Which bendtech software do you use and why. I was looking at them for a while and could not decide if they would be helpful to me. I mostly build roll cages
I have Bendtech EZ, the cheapest one. You punch in a few measurements from inside the car and it will show you a 3D model of the bar and where to bend it and how much. Also tells you the length your piece will be. Its really helpful.
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Old 02-28-2010, 05:51 PM   #2752
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I have Bendtech EZ, the cheapest one. You punch in a few measurements from inside the car and it will show you a 3D model of the bar and where to bend it and how much. Also tells you the length your piece will be. Its really helpful.
One bar at a time? even complicated front down bars.

How do you know where to take the measurements from
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Old 02-28-2010, 07:43 PM   #2753
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One bar at a time? even complicated front down bars.

How do you know where to take the measurements from

watch both of them... 15 times each...

YouTube - 1 of 2 bend-tech assembly demonstration
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Old 02-28-2010, 10:11 PM   #2754
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tubing notcher at my buddys shop notchs effortlessly


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Old 03-01-2010, 05:24 AM   #2755
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watch both of them... 15 times each...

YouTube - 1 of 2 bend-tech assembly demonstration
Yeah thats the bad ass version, wish I had that
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Old 03-01-2010, 12:23 PM   #2756
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Otto.. You should upgrade!
Well worth it!

(Yes I know I forgot the horizontal and diagonal brace)
This is an example from Bend-Tech PRO
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Old 03-01-2010, 10:21 PM   #2757
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Today I build another Blu808 Beef Supreme SR top mount manifold for an sr ae86. Sch 10 t304 stainless FTW.

Will be cleaning and welding it up tomorrow.

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Old 03-01-2010, 11:52 PM   #2758
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Today I build another Blu808 Beef Supreme SR top mount manifold for an sr ae86. Sch 10 t304 stainless FTW.

Will be cleaning and welding it up tomorrow.

You did not have any longer straight pieces to fill that gap??
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Old 03-02-2010, 12:25 AM   #2759
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You did not have any longer straight pieces to fill that gap??
Which gap? Are you talking about the 2 segments welded together? Those will be replaced by a single piece before welding. This is just mocked up to confirm fitment.


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Old 03-02-2010, 10:21 PM   #2760
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Which gap? Are you talking about the 2 segments welded together? Those will be replaced by a single piece before welding. This is just mocked up to confirm fitment.


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Yes sir, just wondering. BLUE....... am I playing the right game lol
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