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Chat General Discussion About The Nissan 240SX and Nissan Z Cars |
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11-21-2014, 04:04 AM | #31 |
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Unfortunately I listened to the shop again and actually went nearly 500 miles on initial start up oil. I was only ok with this because: A) the shop said it would be fine fml. B) I couldn't find anymore VR1 10w-40. Normally I've changed the oil right after a heat cycle, again at 50, 500 then at normal 5000 mile intervals. (That's what I get for changing up what has worked)
When it comes to piston wall break-in you actually want a more aggressive approach. Whet I've done and have had solid compression numbers is for several miles even some times after first drive I would be on a long stretch and vary my speed around 20 or so mph putting load on the engine then full engine decel. This helps "seat" new piston rings to the cylinder walls. |
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11-21-2014, 07:31 AM | #32 |
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If I remember correctly, my procedure was...
- First start up, run it on conventional oil until it warmed up, then drain + new oil filter. - 500 miles conventional oil driving normally, not babying it but not beating on it either. Drain + new oil filter. - Switch to synthetic oil, drive it hard, baby it, and everything in between for 1000 miles. Drain + filter. - From then on out 5000 mile intervals on synthetic oil. This was all with 10w-30 weighted oil.
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11-21-2014, 09:03 AM | #33 |
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Anyway, back to the OP's inquiry, I am pretty sure the sound is caused by all that dust rattling around between the mating surfaces of your engine's components because you did not rebuild it in space.
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11-21-2014, 09:55 PM | #34 |
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matej...
dont be a crass sunovabitch.... building a motor in space still requires a hepa filter, possibly two... because of the cosmique dust. trust me, combine that with comets, sun rays, and alien pollution and foreign matter and youve got yourself a problem |
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knock, running problem, s13, sr20, stall |
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