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Old 11-09-2011, 02:41 PM   #151
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blueshark123 View Post
updates please i just did my r33 cables also and i think they are a bit to close to my driveshaft since i have a beefy shaft lol
Hey man, sorry for the wait. You should have plenty of clearance with the driveshaft, as the cables install pretty much the same as stock. There are two clips above the U-joint which the cables are secured to, make sure they connected. After they get secured there they separate and go to each side. There are threads in the subframe where the cable tabs get bolted to, then the cable runs through the hole in the subframe before getting bolted to the backing plate. I too have a larger driveshaft (driveshaftshop), so clearance should be the same. Hope that helps

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Old 11-09-2011, 02:48 PM   #152
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I didnt run my through the hole in the subframe they reached just fine everything works properly, but wtf i dont have that tab in the picture thats why it seems to close. Is that tab welded or bolted on to the chassis? I guess i need to order one or some shit
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Old 11-09-2011, 02:56 PM   #153
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Originally Posted by blueshark123 View Post
I didnt run my through the hole in the subframe they reached just fine everything works properly, but wtf i dont have that tab in the picture thats why it seems to close. Is that tab welded or bolted on to the chassis? I guess i need to order one or some shit
That is very strange that you don't have those clips. I am unsure of how they are fastened to the underbody, but I could imagine them being a pain in the ass to get. A way around it could be to use an Adel clamps and self tapping screws. There is really no strain on the cables there, so it should be plenty strong.

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Old 11-09-2011, 03:03 PM   #154
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ok thanks yea i was planing on doing something like that but i dont want to drill any holes in my under body since i just por 15 the car and schultz/rubber coated it
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Old 11-09-2011, 07:06 PM   #155
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I do not have a whole lot to update, so I figured I would answer some of the questions about the brake setup and the components I used.

The front setup consists of Evolution 8 calipers, Evolution 8 rotors, Touge Factory conversion brackets, Racing Brake pads, OEM hardware, and Agency Power 240sx to Evolution 8 conversion brake hoses.









Thanks to Agency Power, these 240sx to Evolution 8 conversion hoses were developed. These maintain the factory Evolution 8 configuration by retaining the banjo fitting on the caliper. After being disappointed with the other brake hose options for this conversion, these corrected all the issues. They are not available for sale yet, but I can refer you to someone who can help you, if anyone is interested.











The rear brakes consist of a Z32 handbrake setup, R33 brake cables, Z32 rotors, Subaru STI calipers, Racing Brake pads, Girodisc shims, OEM hardware, and Agency Power 240sx brake hoses









Being that the car is so low, it made being able to torque the necessary components with the weight of vehicle on the wheels very difficult. I had considered purchasing a nice set of ramps, but for the sake of time, I made a set out of wood. The whole setup only costs $40 and leaves a lot of room under the car.



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Old 11-09-2011, 07:12 PM   #156
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I don't mean to bust balls, but why stick with the banjo fitting when a -3 line would have sufficed/been more common?
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Old 11-09-2011, 07:16 PM   #157
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Those wheels are dope. Are they 17s?
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Old 11-09-2011, 07:36 PM   #158
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Quote:
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I don't mean to bust balls, but why stick with the banjo fitting when a -3 line would have sufficed/been more common?
I wanted the lines to maintain the configuration they were designed to be in from the factory. The gated banjo fitting is very secure and less subject to rotation. Like you said, most people commonly use an adapter, just like Z32 conversion lines, which is completely fine. Being that the lines cost the same, would you not choose the option that retained the factory design?
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Old 11-09-2011, 07:43 PM   #159
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Those wheels are dope. Are they 17s?
Thanks dude, they are 18" Work Emotion XD9's. When looking for wheels, I really liked the design of the XD9, however I really needed a gunmetal wheel to accomplish the look I was going for. I contacted Work and had them do a custom set in the their Matte Gunmetal (MGM) as opposed to the Matte Grey Silver (MGS). It took forever, but it was worth the wait. I have yet to see another set in this color, so they may be one of a kind.
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Old 11-09-2011, 08:20 PM   #160
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Quote:
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I wanted the lines to maintain the configuration they were designed to be in from the factory. The gated banjo fitting is very secure and less subject to rotation. Like you said, most people commonly use an adapter, just like Z32 conversion lines, which is completely fine. Being that the lines cost the same, would you not choose the option that retained the factory design?
I don't disagree with your keep it factory idea, I just think that if you're willing to swap brake lines that installing a -3 adapter to a regular hose isn't a hiccup, nor will it be any better/worse than your setup. I guess I also do not understand how these lines are 'better' than the others out there...

Aside from the above point, having had lines burst, I will say that it's also MUCH easier to find a line shop in a pinch to recreate a-3 line, than one that can create a banjo based setup. I know it may be 'pulling' straws here, but it's still something to consider.

I'm not looking to argue, just don't understand. -3 is common amongst aftermarket lines across all brands...banjo ends are not.
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Old 11-09-2011, 08:26 PM   #161
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nice thread
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Old 11-09-2011, 10:00 PM   #162
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Quote:
Originally Posted by codyace View Post
I don't disagree with your keep it factory idea, I just think that if you're willing to swap brake lines that installing a -3 adapter to a regular hose isn't a hiccup, nor will it be any better/worse than your setup. I guess I also do not understand how these lines are 'better' than the others out there...

Aside from the above point, having had lines burst, I will say that it's also MUCH easier to find a line shop in a pinch to recreate a-3 line, than one that can create a banjo based setup. I know it may be 'pulling' straws here, but it's still something to consider.

I'm not looking to argue, just don't understand. -3 is common amongst aftermarket lines across all brands...banjo ends are not.

I appreciate your interest, and I am open to your criticism, but I am unsure what your concerns are. Evolution 8 Brembos use banjo fittings, why would I intentionally stray from that design if the correct brake hoses are available? Why would I use a "universal solution, when a specific solution is available? I treated the brake system exactly as it is on my Evo 8, as they are the same.

I know where you are trying to go with this, but this is not a purpose built racecar. If it were, and every line needed to be rerouted, cut to specific lengths, and various fittings needed to be used, yes, I would have purchased a roll of -3 hose and swaged/crimped all the ends to custom dimensions. Since it is not, I took a little extra effort and sourced a set that is as close to factory as possible. Again, thanks for the interest and I appreciate the comments
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Old 11-10-2011, 09:50 AM   #163
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We should have a brake comparison test when ur car is done to compare a complete z32 setup vs a evo/sti setup to see how much better your setup is lol
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Old 12-20-2011, 01:26 PM   #164
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Damn Im about to pull my subframe out this weekend now, you have inspired me! lol but great work I wish you were in San diego. Did you do the bead blasting yourself or took it to a shop?
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Old 12-20-2011, 01:33 PM   #165
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I think he told me that he did it himself.
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Old 12-20-2011, 06:23 PM   #166
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Thanks for the interest, and sorry for the lack of updates, and the slow progress. Aside from the rear sway bar, the suspension and brakes are complete, and the car is on the ground. Being that the weather is starting to get cold, not much more will get done, but the engine and body will be posted next. Thanks for sticking with me on the build and I hope this thread has helped some people out.

As far as the bead blasting, yes, it was done by me. For anyone that does a lot of this type of work, I highly recommend a nice media blasting setup. It really allows you to do proper restorations on components, and in some cases will allow you to save parts, that would otherwise need to be purchased.



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I think he told me that he did it himself.
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Old 12-21-2011, 12:01 AM   #167
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what exactly are the giro discs on the rear sti brembo setup? only thing im not really following.

aside from that, codyace this is more directed at you...you say people use an adapter for z32 brakes? i know theyre a banjo type, but i've never seen this adapter...care to elaborate?
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Old 12-21-2011, 03:42 AM   #168
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It def inspired me & cleared up some things for me as well. Too bad I didn't get a chance to do the Z32 swap myself. I didn't have time & took it to a shop.
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Old 12-21-2011, 01:23 PM   #169
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I think he is referring to this one
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Old 12-22-2011, 12:48 AM   #170
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this shit is sick
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Old 12-22-2011, 12:53 AM   #171
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all u need now is some driftwork knuckles and bam!!
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Old 12-22-2011, 08:09 AM   #172
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all u need now is some driftwork knuckles and bam!!
What is your avatar??
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Old 12-23-2011, 10:22 AM   #173
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Hey guys, if anyone is interested or knows someone who might be, I am selling a VQ35DE from my 350Z. It is an absolutely complete setup, and is great condition. The engine was removed just two weeks ago, as the car is getting an engine conversion. Keep an eye out for that build....

http://zilvia.net/f/sale-items/42605...-complete.html
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Old 04-08-2012, 12:55 AM   #174
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Any updates? How does it ride?
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Old 04-09-2012, 10:04 AM   #175
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Sorry it has been so long since I have updated this thread, but this project has been set aside temporarily so I can concentrate on a different build. The S14 is basically complete aside from paint and a few details. Check out my other build in the meantime, you may enjoy it more.....

http://zilvia.net/f/tech-talk/429496...50z-build.html
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Old 04-09-2012, 08:42 PM   #176
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Shame. Can we at least get pics of it on the ground?
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Old 04-10-2012, 08:22 AM   #177
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Very cool and does anyone here thought about using home depot bolt for suspension because bolt are not cheap at the dealer ..= (
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Old 04-22-2012, 12:13 AM   #178
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what kind of paint and primer did you use to paint your subframe?
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Old 04-22-2012, 10:44 AM   #179
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what kind of paint and primer did you use to paint your subframe?
I used an epoxy primer and a Urethane paint. Be sure to sand it down before painting and clean it thoroughly.
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Old 04-25-2012, 07:36 PM   #180
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how did you press in the new ball joints in you front LCAs? you've inspired me to do this to mine lol but the front subframe will be dropped when i swap the motor.
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