2JZGTE Swapped S-Chassis thread

[ATLspeed]

Just thought I would share

- Oem rebuild
- Brian Crower Cams/valves/retainers etc
- Holset HE351
- Lightweight pulleys
- Driftmotion Lightweight flywheel w/flywheel bolt lock

[florante rea]

^^^^ looking good man.

[2muchboost]

Sorry I was a bit vague. Im actually sticking with the R154 which is rebuilt using MC parts. Looking for about 500-600 lbs/tq when all is said and done. Looking to daily drive the car and take it to the track a few times a yr.

Dallas whats up bud. Wow the build is coming along strong. If I had the extra cash I would love to do a V160 and that clutch will be good no matter what you throw at it.

[thefro526]

Can anyone offer some assistance with the Dakota Digital Wiring Boxes on a 1J S13? (Zenki, so Single Cam Tach)

Thus far, I've tried both output one and output two on the tach, and various combinations of the first and second dipswitch and gotten nothing. The Engine Cylinder count has been set correctly.

Interestingly enough, my speedo is a bit jumpy at idle (perhaps 0-5mph jumps, maximum).... What are the odds that the inputs and or outputs on my harness are swapped - or is the speedo just jumpy without calibration?

Thanks guys.

[91ka24]

So i wired up my 2j into my s13 yesterday, cranks but no start. i didn't have help so i couldn't check for fuel/fire. So does anyone know if the f1 starter trigger wire needs to be hooked up? Cause i know on a Sr or ka you have to have the trigger wire hooked up for the inj to fire in a certain order on start up.

[91ka24]

Well got back at it today and had a little help. Car is gettin fuel, but no fire so that would make me think the efi relay is good since the inj and coils run off of it. Does anyone know how to check the ignitor? I googled it but only came up with diagrams or people saying just swap it.

[91ka24]

Got mine running I missed one of the power wires that powers the ignitor. pumped to drive it now

[Mr. Phonso]

ohh very nice How long did you have to extend your harness? (if its from an aristo)

[91ka24]

I didn't extend all the wires just the ones that needed power and my grounds. But my s13 is just my drift car so I just mounted the ecu up against the firewall, on the inside of course. If you wanted to mount it in the stock location you would have to extend every wire, and that...... would take forever.

[dpkid101]

Originally Posted by 91ka24

Got mine running I missed one of the power wires that powers the ignitor. pumped to drive it now

Nice was it the one that I said had two wires instead of one for the main relay?

[91ka24]

Yep lol i only had 1 hooked up. Now the only prob Im having is when I turn the key off the car stays running, brake light on the cluster stays on. But it does it even if I disconnect the power to the ecu, ( the car won't run obviously, but the brake light on the cluster stays on) So I think its a ground issue, cause it never did it before with my Sr. Now I don't have the alt hooked up yet but i don't think that has anything to do with the issue.

[dpkid101]

Originally Posted by 91ka24

Yep lol i only had 1 hooked up. Now the only prob Im having is when I turn the key off the car stays running, brake light on the cluster stays on. But it does it even if I disconnect the power to the ecu, ( the car won't run obviously, but the brake light on the cluster stays on) So I think its a ground issue, cause it never did it before with my Sr. Now I don't have the alt hooked up yet but i don't think that has anything to do with the issue.

hmm car stays running thats wierd. maybe you have something wired to constant volts when it should be switched. And I to also have that problem with my brake light on my cluster but it doesnt stay on like you say yours is doing

[dpkid101]

on a side note guys I am looking for an s14 kade throttle cable to work with my swap if any of yall have one laying around

[91ka24]

It's not with the wiring because I disconnect the power to the ecu and it still does it. I think its a ground issue. None the less though, the motor sounds great and has awesome oil pressure lol

[dpkid101]

Originally Posted by 91ka24

It's not with the wiring because I disconnect the power to the ecu and it still does it. I think its a ground issue. None the less though, the motor sounds great and has awesome oil pressure lol

Awesome! glad to hear

[CDD200]

finally got some traction, and it is nice not to worry about breaking loose into a drift all the time

[91ka24]

Ok so i figures out the brake light issue and the car staying running, but this is very strange. All I did was take the ign wire from the ecu and grounded it. Now another weird thing is the fuel pump comes on when i do this as well. Isnt the ign switch supposed to be a 12v?

[dpkid101]

Originally Posted by 91ka24

Ok so i figures out the brake light issue and the car staying running, but this is very strange. All I did was take the ign wire from the ecu and grounded it. Now another weird thing is the fuel pump comes on when i do this as well. Isnt the ign switch supposed to be a 12v?

Hm im not sure I would have to look back at my pinouts and see. What number pin is that that your grounding?

[91ka24]

Pin 1. The ign switch wire. But I'm gonna try somethin different cause the aem pin out even says its a 12v input. So I'm thinkin I'm using a 12v from a relay under the hood and its not grounding, so when i ground the ign switch it completes the circuit for the relay under the hood. I'm pretty sure I know how to fix it though.

[2muchboost]

Some parts for sale if anyone is interested:

http://zilvia.net/f/sale-items/47852...-headstud.html

[Mister.E]

Hey guys, i plan on swapping a 1J into my car and i was wondering if you guys do anything in the front of the car to compensate for the extra weight of the motor? Right now i am running D-Max coilovers with an 8kg spring rate up front and i was wondering if that is going to be enough? Or will i have to buy new coilovers with a 10kg or 12kg spring rate?

[2muchboost]

Depends on what you plan to do with the car...daily, drift, drag, auto-cross. FYI, I plan to daily and 1/4 mile here and there and I am using FA 11kg front and 7kg rear as recommended by the techs at FA. I have an S14 with a 2j if it helps clear things up.

[Mister.E]

I plan to drift it and use it as a DD.

[waste_of_space]

You should up your spring rate. I'd go with 12k up front and 10k in the rear (I'm assuming you're running the standard 8k/6k), but it's generally not advised to go more than 2 kg up or down from your current spring rates without getting your coilovers revalved. So you don't need new coilovers, but it wouldn't hurt to look into stiffer springs (like at least 10k/8k, which you could safely get away with).

[Zerolift Autolab]

Most recent completed 2JZ swap at Zerolift



We produce a mount kit and driveshaft for this conversion.
1JZGTE / 2JZGTE into Nissan S13, 14, 15 chassis.
Stock Front Subframe, S Chassis Motor Mount Compatible.
No Cutting the Core Support Required !

We will have race motor mounts released very soon also !

[ATLspeed]

Originally Posted by thefro526

Can anyone offer some assistance with the Dakota Digital Wiring Boxes on a 1J S13? (Zenki, so Single Cam Tach)

Thus far, I've tried both output one and output two on the tach, and various combinations of the first and second dipswitch and gotten nothing. The Engine Cylinder count has been set correctly.

Interestingly enough, my speedo is a bit jumpy at idle (perhaps 0-5mph jumps, maximum).... What are the odds that the inputs and or outputs on my harness are swapped - or is the speedo just jumpy without calibration?

Thanks guys.

Heres a write up on it.

http://zilvia.net/f/tech-talk/449651...-write-up.html

[ATLspeed]

Originally Posted by 91ka24

Yep lol i only had 1 hooked up. Now the only prob Im having is when I turn the key off the car stays running, brake light on the cluster stays on. But it does it even if I disconnect the power to the ecu, ( the car won't run obviously, but the brake light on the cluster stays on) So I think its a ground issue, cause it never did it before with my Sr. Now I don't have the alt hooked up yet but i don't think that has anything to do with the issue.

Use this diagram for wiring. The problem with your lights not cutting out is that Pin 1 needs to be wired to ignition and everything will cut off as stock.

[Mister.E]

Originally Posted by waste_of_space

You should up your spring rate. I'd go with 12k up front and 10k in the rear (I'm assuming you're running the standard 8k/6k), but it's generally not advised to go more than 2 kg up or down from your current spring rates without getting your coilovers revalved. So you don't need new coilovers, but it wouldn't hurt to look into stiffer springs (like at least 10k/8k, which you could safely get away with).

Yes my current setup, is 8k/6k but the problem is that D-Max coilovers have an inner diameter of 63mm and the Swift springs are 60mm. I'm not sure if they will fit my coilovers or not, and in the middle of a swap i dont really have the cash to put down on some new coilovers.

[dpkid101]

Originally Posted by ATLspeed

Use this diagram for wiring. The problem with your lights not cutting out is that Pin 1 needs to be wired to ignition and everything will cut off as stock.

correct but he had it running to switched relay which i believe wasnt grounded correctly so it wasnt coming on

[91ka24]

I got it fixed guys thanks for the help!!!