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Old 10-20-2019, 01:22 PM   #1171
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Did u drive it yet? Putting load on it will make the temps go up vs idle.
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Old 10-20-2019, 03:03 PM   #1172
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with the same setup, clutch fan +nismo thermostat, I dont see over 160 when im just idling
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Old 10-20-2019, 06:08 PM   #1173
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I drove it for the first time last weekend to my brothers house a few blocks away and it stayed at that temperature. I did not want to drive it too far in case something went wrong lol. I asked because it is running rich at idle (10.2 ) I thought maybe its running too cool with the Nismo thermostat and maybe had to put in an OEM thermostat. I am guessing the current base tune needs to be adjusted and leaned out a bit at idle.
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Old 10-20-2019, 06:50 PM   #1174
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160 is way too cold. 185 -205 is the proper temp range for the engine to function properly. When pil, piston rings, etc. Is too cold, you introduce friction or just oil not properly lubricating


Dump the nismo. That's a bandaid for people who have a shit running car
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Old 11-10-2019, 08:14 PM   #1175
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Originally Posted by RalliartRsX View Post
160 is way too cold. 185 -205 is the proper temp range for the engine to function properly. When pil, piston rings, etc. Is too cold, you introduce friction or just oil not properly lubricating


Dump the nismo. That's a bandaid for people who have a shit running car
Dyno'd yet?

Work on mine is just about to begin finally
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Old 11-10-2019, 10:08 PM   #1176
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Unfortunately, nothing too significant to report back.

14 psi made slightly less than 300WHP on a heart breaker. The IWG75 single port wouldn't take any duty cycle so we were stuck @ 14. Also had a phantom cam sync error @ 7k

Apart from that, considering how this all started, I can say it went well. Already installed a twin port gate and am awaiting a properly designed (that is not 1200 like the mazworx kit) crank trigger kit that doesn't push out the PS pump.

Car runs really good and is a freaking riot! Been slowly buttoning up things (reinstalling interior, splash shields, radio, speakers, etc etc). JK41 shifts nice and firm. Overall, really happy with how it turned out.

May try and make a few boost runs tomorrow to see if the gate is working as it should. Took it out a few hours ago after I did a home alignment to check things over.

Glad I went VET! The sound and spool is intoxicating
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Old 11-11-2019, 02:16 PM   #1177
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Not even a single video clip....
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Old 11-11-2019, 08:00 PM   #1178
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RalliartRsX View Post
Unfortunately, nothing too significant to report back.

14 psi made slightly less than 300WHP on a heart breaker. The IWG75 single port wouldn't take any duty cycle so we were stuck @ 14. Also had a phantom cam sync error @ 7k

Apart from that, considering how this all started, I can say it went well. Already installed a twin port gate and am awaiting a properly designed (that is not 1200 like the mazworx kit) crank trigger kit that doesn't push out the PS pump.

Car runs really good and is a freaking riot! Been slowly buttoning up things (reinstalling interior, splash shields, radio, speakers, etc etc). JK41 shifts nice and firm. Overall, really happy with how it turned out.

May try and make a few boost runs tomorrow to see if the gate is working as it should. Took it out a few hours ago after I did a home alignment to check things over.

Glad I went VET! The sound and spool is intoxicating
Wait until you turn the wick up... 3rd gear tailwag is intoxicating.
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Old 11-16-2019, 03:18 PM   #1179
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Looking for some help with a SR20DET build please. After scouring the internet for hours, it seems that there is no specific numbering sequence that would help place the cam caps in the correct order. These caps were already removed and in a bag so I don't have the correct reference as to what order they go in. The last one with the oiling port is obvious as to its' placement and it looks like there are dimples punched in three out of four caps. It would be a guess as to where these fall in line. Any help or recommendations? Thanks in advance.

Hmmmm.....won't let me attach a pic.
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Old 11-16-2019, 05:09 PM   #1180
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All the cam caps are lettered (I for intake), marked with an arrow for direction and numbered on every single VE head.

Are you sure you have the correct caps?
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Old 11-20-2019, 08:56 AM   #1181
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stock cams will be fine. if you really feel like spending money in that area

https://www.mazworx.com/store/p/370-...shaft-Set.aspx

hello , when you say stock cams, is it p11 sr20ve or sr16ve? Because I have sr20ve

thanks you !!
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Old 11-20-2019, 09:35 AM   #1182
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P11 SR20VE cams is what he is referring to
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Old 11-20-2019, 12:22 PM   #1183
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Has anyone on here used N1 cams on a turbo setup, if so, what are the drawbacks?
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Old 11-20-2019, 12:53 PM   #1184
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^^^^None??
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Old 11-20-2019, 02:10 PM   #1185
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I went Kelford, I have upgraded everything else in the head already and have had good experience with them in the past by simply telling them what my goal was, turbo choice etc etc.

On my old 34R, the dyno result was exactly within the range they had said to expect.
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Old 11-24-2019, 10:47 AM   #1186
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Has anyone on here used N1 cams on a turbo setup, if so, what are the drawbacks?
I did. No drawbacks. Triggered VVL at about 3800 RPM. Pulled hard as high as I dared rev it (saw a little over 8k a few times, I'm sure it'd still pull at 8600-8800).

This was with an EFR 7163 twin scroll.


The N1 cams are similar to a stock F20C/F22C cam profile (S2000), and those things love boost too.

Honestly, with the N1s, you need a pretty big turbo. A 7163 is the smallest I'd go with. In the EFR world, I wondered what a 7670 would do. Probably still pretty strong response and even more nuts top end. That said, even the 7163 made so much power it was getting a little hard to manage at ~18 psi+(1.2 bar+).

The sound on the big cam is worth the N1s alone.
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Old 11-24-2019, 10:51 AM   #1187
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Wondering now if I should stick with my p12s or get a set of N1s for my own 7163 setup. Any chance you have a graph with the n1s? Id love to see the curve
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Old 11-24-2019, 12:12 PM   #1188
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Quote:
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I did. No drawbacks. Triggered VVL at about 3800 RPM. Pulled hard as high as I dared rev it (saw a little over 8k a few times, I'm sure it'd still pull at 8600-8800).



This was with an EFR 7163 twin scroll.





The N1 cams are similar to a stock F20C/F22C cam profile (S2000), and those things love boost too.



Honestly, with the N1s, you need a pretty big turbo. A 7163 is the smallest I'd go with. In the EFR world, I wondered what a 7670 would do. Probably still pretty strong response and even more nuts top end. That said, even the 7163 made so much power it was getting a little hard to manage at ~18 psi+(1.2 bar+).



The sound on the big cam is worth the N1s alone.


I have custom cams very similar profile to the n1 and an efr7670 going on mine , will post up the results when its mapped in the new year hopefully should still be pretty responsive


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Old 11-24-2019, 12:25 PM   #1189
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Old 11-24-2019, 02:57 PM   #1190
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Wondering now if I should stick with my p12s or get a set of N1s for my own 7163 setup. Any chance you have a graph with the n1s? Id love to see the curve
I never dyno'd the car. turtl631 owns it now, when he gets it back up and running maybe he'll dyno it.

The calculated mass airflow never flatlined at the revs I was bringing it to, so even if friction was rising, it probably was still making more power with more revs.
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Old 11-24-2019, 02:58 PM   #1191
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Wondering now if I should stick with my p12s or get a set of N1s for my own 7163 setup. Any chance you have a graph with the n1s? Id love to see the curve
P12s are pretty close to N1s on the high cam. Not quite as aggressive, but should be fine.

Honestly, I would change if you can do basically an even trade for them, but if you have to put up decent money I'd keep the P12s.

Don't get caught up in building "the best" - just build something you like and drive it.
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Old 12-01-2019, 02:22 PM   #1192
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Hello everyone, I'm on the construction of my SR22VET, I need a new oil pump for my assembly, I discovered on ebay a cheap oil pump to 70 dollars. the price seems super low it makes you want to buy. But it's Chinese shit or someone here has already tried?

https://www.ebay.fr/itm/Brand-New-Ni...YAAOSw0BtbwBZ2
Thank you

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Old 12-01-2019, 03:30 PM   #1193
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Hello everyone, I'm on the construction of my SR22VET, I need a new oil pump for my assembly, I discovered on ebay a cheap oil pump to 70 dollars. the price seems super low it makes you want to buy. But it's Chinese shit or someone here has already tried?

https://www.ebay.fr/itm/Brand-New-Ni...YAAOSw0BtbwBZ2
Thank you
Don't you dare.

Buy it from a reputable seller, not worth taking a risk on. My genuine one was less than $300 AUD if that helps.
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Old 12-02-2019, 05:10 AM   #1194
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ok i will try to find close to home, or if someone sells a new one in second hands
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Old 12-02-2019, 02:21 PM   #1195
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ok i will try to find close to home, or if someone sells a new one in second hands
buy this, then have the oil pump gears WPC treated

https://www.efisolutions.com.au/oil-pump-p11-n14
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Old 12-06-2019, 06:05 PM   #1196
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what kit is everyone using for cam signal ?
i only see 2 aftermarket options taarks & mazworx which maz has 3 different options.
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Old 12-06-2019, 07:31 PM   #1197
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taarls has 3 different options, not mazworx. The trigger wheel is similar between taarks and maz.

The 2 other options are home signals for when you are utilizing a crank signal.

Which you use heavily depends on the granualirty you seek as well as simply down to the ECUs ability t properly interpret the signals without a falls register.

The most ideal situation is utilizing a ATI trigger wheel on the shell (you can order them from ATI mind you), a 12 tooth trigger wheel conjunction with a cam home signal for TDC. All shielded wire ofcourse.

Maz makes a complete crank/cam trigger kit. However it is a 60-2 wheel which a fair amount of the older ecus are unable to properly decode

Ross machine produces a similar crank trigger to Maz
Taarks produces a crank trigger which is bolted between the PS and AC drive portion of the ATI damper and with this, spacers the PS pulley out 10mm
Engineered to slide produces their/his own proprietary crank trigger solution
Another NZ company produces a crank trigger which is mounted behind the flywheel

Most modern day ecus are able to only utilize with cam trigger option without false reading and with out requiring a crank trigger ki
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