Small Questions Thread (SEARCH FIRST! Use this instead of making NEW threads)

[240sx123$]

Originally Posted by Urbanfer

i have some cracked water pump hoses.. my mechanic didnt want to use a custom foot long hose from autozone cause it had no moldings so i was wondering can i drive my car like 10 miles with it leaking or will that automatically mess up my engine? the reason i have to move my car is that its at my friends place and they got evicted so i gotta move it asap any suggesions dont have time to look for the right hose thanks

As long as it doesnt get to hot, it will be 100% fine. Make sure its full of coolant before you leave, and keep your eye on your temp gauge. If it goes over halfway, pull over, add some water, and let it cool down. Continue when its cooled a bit.

[240sx123$]

Originally Posted by CELA

what happens if i didn't let it idle for ten min? will that make my emissions shoot up or something?

No, it just wont reset the ecu. It will revert back to its previous settings.

[thompsn]

I'm looking to get conversion lenses for my s13 flip-ups. I'm going to get Hella E-codes because the cut off on them is really nice. Now here's my question,

I know the s13 runs H4's but does anyone know if the 165mm or 200mm E-codes are the right ones.

Thanks,

[Urbanfer]

does anyone know a mobile mechanic open today? in the alhambra area thanks!

[ki_JDM_ds]

URGENT!

How much does Nissan charge to make an Ignition Key for the S13? I called a local Lock Smith and they want $105 to do it.

I need to get to work in the morning so a fast reply would be great.

THANKS!

[chiboy002]

Originally Posted by ki_JDM_ds

URGENT!

How much does Nissan charge to make an Ignition Key for the S13? I called a local Lock Smith and they want $105 to do it.

I need to get to work in the morning so a fast reply would be great.

THANKS!

idk about nissan but ace hardware/bess hardware (should be around your area too) quoted 15$ plus key

nissan, i would say, would be relatively cheap compared to 105$ considering there isn't reprogramming stuff needed. 50$ i would say, cost my dad 100$ for his benz key

[Melo_speed]

Im planning on dropping a 2jz into my s13 and i am wondering if the supra rad will fit.

The measurments are close i might just have to lower the rad mounts

Will this work?

240sx-Overall Size: 26.4" x 19.5" x 2.47"

Supra-Overall Size: 26.5" x 20.2" x 2.7"-MK3

The MK4 supra rad wont fit without alot of work-
Overall Size: 29.7" x 20.8" x 2.47"

[jesse_s13]

i soo would do that but i live in a apt and my roomates would bitch. Plus im a college student . Im slowly saving up hopefully i can find a buddy where i can store the engine if i even get one soon. Btw it dosnt burn oil

Originally Posted by 240sx123$

If I were you, Id buy another motor, and maybe even start buying mods for it, but hold off on swapping it as long as you can. Let the parts keep flowin in as long as possible, then when your motor finally takes a dump, swap it in. You have an advantage in that you know your motor is dying, but you have some time to prepare for it. Not a low of people luck our like that- i know someone who was a week away from putting his turbo kit on, and spun a bearing on the highway. Had to sell all his turbo parts to get a replacement motor. So consider it a good thing- your motor runs, but will poop out on you eventually. So drive the fuck out of it, and look for another motor in the mean time.

Look on the bright side... you dont have to do any more oil changes, just top that bitch off.

[240sx123$]

Originally Posted by jesse_s13

i soo would do that but i live in a apt and my roomates would bitch. Plus im a college student . Im slowly saving up hopefully i can find a buddy where i can store the engine if i even get one soon. Btw it dosnt burn oil

Gotcha. Well, you can always just start saving, and then buy everything at once. Its just harder to keep money around and not spend it elsewhere than it is to accumulate parts, lol. Also, you did remove the fuel pump relay when doing your compression check, and held the throttle wide open, right?

[singlecamslam]

Do s13 sway bars work on s14s I assume they do?

[240sx123$]

I have a full set of oem z32 tt suspension, with the little EDFC thingies. How much is it all worth on the forums?

[paintballers89]

what is the best sparkplug that u can get from PEPBOYS for an sr i sware i always look but they never have what im looking for they dont have bkr-7ef's

[Mister.E]

are manual and auto dash harnesses the same? i want to transplant all of the wiring from a manual S14 into an auto S14 and want to replace as little as possible. is it just the wiring in the engine bay that's different or will i need to replace all of the interior harnesses as well?

i am basically trying to turn an auto into a factory manual. i dont want any of the splicing and other BS that comes along with an auto to manual swap seeing as how i have all of the manual wiring.

[fckillerbee]

Originally Posted by paintballers89

what is the best sparkplug that u can get from PEPBOYS for an sr i sware i always look but they never have what im looking for they dont have bkr-7ef's

spark depends on your environment. don't buy plugs that get hot if your in socal...and don't buy plugs that run cold if you are in colorado. with that said. ngk usually is a good plug.

[Tom25666]

proper preload for coilover springs is where the springs just barely touch both of the perches when the shock is fully extended, essentially no preload
correct?

[s14slideshow]

quick question, is there anyway I can mix and match my sr and ka starter so that i can drive my ka for a few more weeks? my ka starter is going out and would rather use what i have if possible.

[chiboy002]

hey guys,

anyone know where i can buy a s13 8-pin key? Uncut. I care not for those nismo/flashy/ugly shit. I want a plain black one, like oem. Mine is starting to bend

thanks

[.emerson.]

1. I'm planning to buy some navan sideskirts and rear valences.
I have a 95 zenki w/ original paint.
It's been a garage queen and chassis has only 67k.
Has minor rock chips around the lower area and minor scratches all around.

Should I just repaint the whole car including the skirts and valences?
or
Should I paint the skirt/valences seperately and try my best to wax/polish my original paint job to match?


2. Since my chassis is completely stock w/67k. My shocks are still in good condition.
Should I just ditch em and buy coils(DMAX, PBM, TEIN)
or
Should I buy said skirts and valences, and once my shock go badd, I just replace with konis and some springs, or continue to save for said coils.


Like everyone I just want the most satisfaction for less money and time.

[cole shoes]

temperature gauge help??

i installed my autometer temp gauge yesterday and i get no reading at all. does the wire going to the sending unit just simply go between the two lock nuts on the sender? im also using a wire that gets a 12v reading, when the ignitions on, that is supposed to be used as a stereo wire, could this be the problem? im so confused.

thanks.

[articdragon192]

Are S14 and S13 SR blocks identical?

[240sx123$]

Originally Posted by fckillerbee

spark depends on your environment. don't buy plugs that get hot if your in socal...and don't buy plugs that run cold if you are in colorado. with that said. ngk usually is a good plug.

This is incorrect information. Spark plug heat range is determined by the conditions needing to be met inside the motor, not the environment. Once an engine is up to operating temperature, your environment doesnt affect the combustion process at all, as the temperatures seen in your engine far exceed any temperature youd see outside.

Heres a good read on spark plug heat range Spark Plug Heat Range and Reach

As for selecting a particular spark plug.. Lets compare NGK to NGK. Copper, Platinum, and Iridium. All will produce the same QUALITY spark. The difference (the ONLY difference) is the longevity of the plug. A copper spark plug will provide JUST as strong of a spark, but may only last 20,000 miles. Iridiums are supposed to last up to 100k. With that in mind, I usually recommend Platinums. Best bang for your buck, IMO. Coppers are usually like $2 a peice, Platinums are $2.49, and Iridiums are like $7+. Go with platinum.

[240sx123$]

Originally Posted by .emerson.

1. I'm planning to buy some navan sideskirts and rear valences.
I have a 95 zenki w/ original paint.
It's been a garage queen and chassis has only 67k.
Has minor rock chips around the lower area and minor scratches all around.

Should I just repaint the whole car including the skirts and valences?
or
Should I paint the skirt/valences seperately and try my best to wax/polish my original paint job to match?


2. Since my chassis is completely stock w/67k. My shocks are still in good condition.
Should I just ditch em and buy coils(DMAX, PBM, TEIN)
or
Should I buy said skirts and valences, and once my shock go badd, I just replace with konis and some springs, or continue to save for said coils.


Like everyone I just want the most satisfaction for less money and time.

I bought my '98 with 52k, so i feel you on this one. Heres what Id do.

For now, Id leave the body bone stock. Fuck sideskirts, fuck valences. Invest in QUALITY coilovers. The right coilover can allow you to drop the car significantly without destroying the ride quality. A shitty coilover will drop the car, and the ride will also go to shit. Stock suspension is worthless, I still have my full set with 80k on it, not blown. Not a bad idea to hang onto it, but Id definitely upgrade suspension before body. Do suspension and brakes first- 240 brakes SUCK, then wheel and tires, then motor, then body. Thats how Im doing mine anyway. Function > Form.

[Mister.E]

Is it necessary to bench bleed the clutch master cylinder in the same manner that you would the brake master cylinder before putting it in the car?

[singlecamslam]

do s13 sway bars fit on s14's?

[rocksteady_racer]

Originally Posted by E Double

Is it necessary to bench bleed the clutch master cylinder in the same manner that you would the brake master cylinder before putting it in the car?

No need to bench bleed the clutch master cylinder. I put a new one on my 240sx and bled it without bench bleeding and it worked fine. However if you have a bleeder block still installed instead of a straight line like I do it'll take a little while to get all the air out of the line. I gravity bled mine. Takes a little longer but wastes less fluid.

[fckillerbee]

Originally Posted by 240sx123$

This is incorrect information. Spark plug heat range is determined by the conditions needing to be met inside the motor, not the environment. Once an engine is up to operating temperature, your environment doesnt affect the combustion process at all, as the temperatures seen in your engine far exceed any temperature youd see outside.

Heres a good read on spark plug heat range Spark Plug Heat Range and Reach

As for selecting a particular spark plug.. Lets compare NGK to NGK. Copper, Platinum, and Iridium. All will produce the same QUALITY spark. The difference (the ONLY difference) is the longevity of the plug. A copper spark plug will provide JUST as strong of a spark, but may only last 20,000 miles. Iridiums are supposed to last up to 100k. With that in mind, I usually recommend Platinums. Best bang for your buck, IMO. Coppers are usually like $2 a peice, Platinums are $2.49, and Iridiums are like $7+. Go with platinum.

I'm sorry, I thought of environment along with your drive. See when I used to offer spark plugs. it was "where are you driving, and for how long" since I've been told that different spark plugs have operating temperatures.

i.e. don't buy hot plugs...if you commute in hot weather (where motor will run it's warmest) and don't buy cold plugs (usually recommended for race cars) if you are in cold weather driving to and from work, and your car will not effectively warm up.

Please correct me on what I am in the wrong. I don't want to read another 10 pages about spark plugs. I've already done that. lol..must've not read right.

[bmoses]

Thinking about Tein SS's or FLEX's. If I'm concerned about noises associated with the pillowball upper mounts, should I stick with the SS's without the pillows? (Are the pillows for the S14 application notorious for being noisy and clunky?) Experienced responders much appreciated.

Thanks,
Ben

[Mister.E]

Originally Posted by rocksteady_racer

if you have a bleeder block still installed instead of a straight line

negative, i ripped that shit out a couple months ago when i first started experiencing problems. Turned out that wasnt the issue so now im replacing the master.

[rocksteady_racer]

Originally Posted by E Double

Is it necessary to bench bleed the clutch master cylinder in the same manner that you would the brake master cylinder before putting it in the car?

Originally Posted by E Double

negative, i ripped that shit out a couple months ago when i first started experiencing problems. Turned out that wasnt the issue so now im replacing the master.

Cool should be easy then. I found out when I replaced my master cylinder with a new one that it was leaking on the inside of the cabin. Then everything made sense lol.

[240sx123$]

Originally Posted by fckillerbee

i.e. don't buy hot plugs...if you commute in hot weather (where motor will run it's warmest) and don't buy cold plugs (usually recommended for race cars) if you are in cold weather driving to and from work, and your car will not effectively warm up.

I highlighted where you were mistaken.

"The term "heat range" refers to the relative temperature of the core nose of a spark plug. The words "hot" or "cold," when used in referencing spark plugs, are often a source of confusion and misunderstanding, since normally a hot spark plug is used in a cold engine (low horsepower) and a cold plug in a hot engine (high horsepower). The terms actually refer to the heat rating or thermal characteristics of the plug; more specifically, the plug's ability to dissipate heat from its firing end into the engine cooling system. A cold plug transfers heat rapidly away from its firing end into the cooling system and is used to avoid core nose heat saturation where combustion chamber or cylinder head temperatures are relatively high. A hot spark plug has a much slower rate of heat transfer and is used to avoid fouling where combustion chamber or cylinder head temperatures are relatively low. The primary means of adjusting heat range are by varying the length of the core nose and the alloy material used in the electrodes. Hot plugs have a relatively long insulator nose with a long heat transfer path. Cold plugs have a much shorter insulator nose and thus, transfer heat more rapidly (see illustration; hot to cold - left to right). The heat range of a plug does not affect the power output of an engine. Rather, it allows the plug to function as designed for the duration of the racing event. In other words, once the correct heat range is found that prevents fouling and does not contribute to the pre-ignition or detonation, a change to a hotter or colder plug will not have a positive effect on engine performance."

In other words, the heat range of a spark plug is determined by the internal requirements of the engine. It has absolutely nothing to do with the temperature outside, or the weather. That is entirely up to your cooling system. The spark plug heat range's sole purpose is to create the best burn without carbon buildup or predetonation. People dont change their spark plugs when the weather gets cold- because the weather doesnt affect them. It has nothing to do with your engine running hot or cold, and it has everything to do with selecting the right amount of spark for your engine's combustion process. I hope that makes sense.