Small Questions Thread (SEARCH FIRST! Use this instead of making NEW threads)

[240sx123$]

My mechanic aligned my car on a Hunter alignment rack, and the results were okay, but slightly inconsistent. He told me I need RUCA's and a front camber kit to adjust camber so its even on both sides. The rear is the main offender. So I bought some SPL RUCA's, and I was wondering..

A) Should I wait to install them until right before going back for an alignment?

B) If I decide to install them now, can I simply hold up the stock ones to the new ones, and use that as a basis of measurement for length? In my mind this would allow me to install them now, without affecting the current alignment.

C) Are there camber plates available for strut/spring combo's, or do I need to use the camber bolt kit for the front?

Car is an s14 by the way.

[VNG704]

Will the front strut brace from DC Sports for the S14 fit with an sr20? Not sure if there is any clearance difference between the ka and sr.

[240sx123$]

With which SR? I know itll fit with an S13 SR, but ive never worked on an S14 SR so i cant be sure on that.

[VNG704]

Originally Posted by 240sx123$

With which SR? I know itll fit with an S13 SR, but ive never worked on an S14 SR so i cant be sure on that.

S13 SR in S14, thanks.

[240sx123$]

Yeah thatll fit no problem.

[bnadeau73]

Originally Posted by driftnuts

hey guys i need help here i did a clutch master and clutch slave on a friends car. He still has barely any pressure at all. Know what it could be? I tightened everything even the bleeder valve on the slave cylinder is tight. OH and its really hard to put in gear!

The clutch system take a long time to bleed, longer than brakes. Just keep pumping and bleeding it until it is good. I can't remember if there is a bleeder valve on the master, but if there is try there first until the air is out, then go to the slave cylinder.

-Brandon

[driftnuts]

found out it was the clutch block thanks guys!

[RNGWLD]

[QUOTE=driftnuts
hey guys i need help here i did a clutch master and clutch slave on a friends car. He still has barely any pressure at all. Know what it could be? I tightened everything even the bleeder valve on the slave cylinder is tight. OH and its really hard to put in gear![/QUOTE]

Originally Posted by bnadeau73

The clutch system take a long time to bleed, longer than brakes. Just keep pumping and bleeding it until it is good. I can't remember if there is a bleeder valve on the master, but if there is try there first until the air is out, then go to the slave cylinder.

-Brandon

Delete the clutch dampner. It takes like 5-10 mins to bleed it then.

[Wake]

Originally Posted by 240sx123$

My mechanic aligned my car on a Hunter alignment rack, and the results were okay, but slightly inconsistent. He told me I need RUCA's and a front camber kit to adjust camber so its even on both sides. The rear is the main offender. So I bought some SPL RUCA's, and I was wondering..

A) Should I wait to install them until right before going back for an alignment?

B) If I decide to install them now, can I simply hold up the stock ones to the new ones, and use that as a basis of measurement for length? In my mind this would allow me to install them now, without affecting the current alignment.

C) Are there camber plates available for strut/spring combo's, or do I need to use the camber bolt kit for the front?

Car is an s14 by the way.

A) If you dont want your tires to wear unevenly i would wait until the alignment.

B) Yes, for the most pat

C) Camber bolt is cheaper and easier, but there are companies that make camber plates but you may need to get smaller (dia.) front springs.

[240sx123$]

Thanks man!

[herbieS13]

so today i did a 3rd gear pull (i rarely get on my car but like to open it up every now and then) roughly 4000rpm when i downshifted to 3rd hit full boost and around 6000-6500rpm i was completely engulfed in smoke, smelled kinda like oil, checked the turbo on the conpressor side little to no oil residue found. checked hot pipe same thing, motor was rebuilt roughly 6000k miles/1 year ago, any ideas on what it could be? i'm thinking it could be the valve cover/spark plug gasket, hoping its not a piston ring but can anyone give me some insight or an opinion on what it could be and how to check it if it is a bad piston ring? my setup as far as what i think is important to know - redtop sr bc stroker kit, 262 cams, valve spring retainers, arp head studs cometic head gasket acl bearings gt2871r

edit please pm me!!

[IrvinAmbil]

Is Rodknock fixable? If so how??

Do you have to entirely fix the engine or whatever?

thanks

[thenooblet]

Originally Posted by IrvinAmbil

Is Rodknock fixable? If so how??

Do you have to entirely fix the engine or whatever?

thanks

taken off of a euro forum

well rod knock is something to be worried about. If you are hearing rod knock I would stop driving the car and take it to your mechanic. I had rod knock on my 944 turbo and my rod bearing was worn and close to breaking. If this happens you will most likely send your crank into the block and need a new motor. If caught early enough like mine on the 944 you can remedy it for cheaper than a new motor. It will still cost a pretty penny because the bottom end of your motor probably needs to be removed to fix the bearings. But i suggest if you have rod knock DO NOT drive the car

[chiboy002]

have you guys ever read the last pages of all the forums? The last page on chat has alot of wierd stuff lol, its pretty cool. Kinda like a time capsule

[akina_speedstar]

I thought I saw some where before that the KA was turbo charged form factory at one point now I cant find anything saying yes or no can some on give me a straight answer please and thank you.

[Wake]

NO KA was ever turboed from the factory not even JDM ones.

There were High Compression Single cams randomly over here but thats it.
I believe a supercharged V6 was offered in some of the same trucks that the KA came in but no supercharged KAs either

[.jrmyrmx]

My clutch has no feedback anymore and it wont shift into gears. I checked and there is fluid but it is dirty. how do i figure out which to replace, the slave cylinder or the master, and can i do it without special tools? Also, I dont have to mess with the master brake cylinder at all right?

[Wake]

Replace both master and slave. About $30 for both at most parts stores. If you still have issues its going to be clutch/TO bearing related.

Leave brake master alone.

[akina_speedstar]

thanks wakeBHR

[.jrmyrmx]

Originally Posted by WakeBHR

Replace both master and slave. About $30 for both at most parts stores. If you still have issues its going to be clutch/TO bearing related.

Leave brake master alone.

awesome, thanks! do i have to do anything special after i throw them in or can i just fill it up and drive? this small questions thread is great, i hope more people start using this instead of posting on answer questions in new threads.

[icycooL]

I have another small question I need help with.

For some reason my headlights are stuck up. When I try to put them down manually they go down then pop back up again automatically. I'm certain the fuses are fine, the motor is fine, obviously because it's working automatically. It's just not going down when I turn the headlights off. Anyone have a clue why?

[.jrmyrmx]

did you push the button on the left side of the steering wheel which keeps the headlights up after you turn them off?

[Wake]

Originally Posted by .jrmyrmx

awesome, thanks! do i have to do anything special after i throw them in or can i just fill it up and drive? this small questions thread is great, i hope more people start using this instead of posting on answer questions in new threads.

I agree, this thread certainly has served its purpose. Still seems like more people need to know about it tho. Still a ton of stupid pointless threads.

Anyway yeah replace them, you should remove the bleeder block at the same time if you have already done so. Bleed the system. tighten everything up and top it off if needed, then drive.

Originally Posted by icycooL

I have another small question I need help with.

For some reason my headlights are stuck up. When I try to put them down manually they go down then pop back up again automatically. I'm certain the fuses are fine, the motor is fine, obviously because it's working automatically. It's just not going down when I turn the headlights off. Anyone have a clue why?

pull out your headlight switch and se if the brown wire is cut behind it. If it is somebody already did the lazy, non-lit, sleepy eye "mod".

[EndLeSS8]

I'm running 8mm spacers in the front of my S14
Front inner fender linings removed, and hammered/rolled in front

I tried to switch to 10mm spacers in the front this morning, and suddenly I'm rubbing tire to fender under regular braking, only on the driver side. It's wierd because it's only my driver's side, not passenger

I switched back to my 8mm spacers and no problems again.

Which part of the fender do I need to roll/hammer more to stop the tire rubbing under regular braking? Front of fender? Rear of fender?
Will rubbing occur under turns?

Thanks in advance, peace.

[Wake]

are you sure its not rubbing on your wiring harness?

[EndLeSS8]

I don't think it's the wiring harness, because my S14 is green, and I put touchup paint on the underside of front fenders after the hammering/rolling (Had some very small paint cracks in the inner metal lip of front fenders)
After driving for 10 minutes with my 10mm spacers, the driver's side tire has some green paint on the sidewall of the tire.

Wiring harness has been completely tucked and ziptied up to as close as the body as possible. I only rub the harness when I do full lock left turns (usually when I exit my garage or pull into parking spots).

This is kinda strange to me because I'm not super slammed. Here are some pictures of my front driver's side fender setup. Front tire is 225/45/17 with +17 offset -8mm = +9

Edit: hmm I checked again this morning, and I have less than 2 fingergap's worth of space from fender to tire, so I guess this is why even with the extra 2mm it's rubbing.

[icycooL]

Originally Posted by .jrmyrmx

did you push the button on the left side of the steering wheel which keeps the headlights up after you turn them off?

Yes I have, and I think that may be the problem. The button could be broken, I'll have to check it out.

[hartig]

how good is the isis radiator quality-wise? it says its comparable to koyo, but obviously they're going to talk up their own product.
i'm asking because my radiator is leaking and i need a new one.

[bnadeau73]

Originally Posted by hartig

how good is the isis radiator quality-wise? it says its comparable to koyo, but obviously they're going to talk up their own product.
i'm asking because my radiator is leaking and i need a new one.

A 2 core copper Koyo radiator will work wonders and it isn't that expensive.

[doomviillain]

me again. a question about the butterflies on an s13 KA. I took mines out cuz i plan on boosting it soon. Whats the consequence if you dont weld those holes shut? will it cause too much air turbulence for each cylinder or what?