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Chat General Discussion About The Nissan 240SX and Nissan Z Cars |
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07-23-2020, 02:35 PM | #23311 | |
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07-26-2020, 07:24 PM | #23312 |
Leaky Injector
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Changing my open diff (95 S14) to a HLSD from an S15 and not sure if the bearing cap order is correct. I took them off not knowing they had to go back on a certain way. I marked them P and D for passenger/driver to what I think is correct.
Looking at google images they are seem to have different numbers/letters on the caps so I am not able to match to any image. I also have no idea what the numbers/letters mean. I did see that the driver side always had a O+ overlapping cross hair on the top and the passenger had that symbol on the bottom. The side and orientation I think they are supposed to be in happens to match. I am fairly certain the one marked P is correctly on the passenger side due to the scuff marks on the top. I cleaned the cap and the other sides do not have evidence of that mark. It also seems to match the mating face correctly. Crosshair symbol bottom. The driver side one marked D doesnt seem like it is the correct placement on the top because it has a bit of overhang. Crosshair symbol top. My logic thinks with the white scuff mark location and the crosshair symbol on the bottom, the passenger side is correct. This makes the driver side correct when oriented with the crosshair symbol on top (Assuming the symbols are always top/bottom for driver/passenger sides). I also noticed the text on all images is oriented so you would read from the outer side of the diff. How do I know for sure without destroying the diff while driving? EDIT: I figured out they are correct since the scoring marks clearly line up between diff and cap. Last edited by imbored205; 07-27-2020 at 09:45 AM.. |
07-29-2020, 12:09 PM | #23314 |
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07-31-2020, 07:20 AM | #23315 |
Hi guys,
I'm back again with another really stupid question. I just took my car in to get new tires installed yesterday after finishing the brake job I did previously. When I pulled in the driveway I saw there was fluid leaking. I didn't have time to figure out where it was coming from so I pulled into the garage. This morning before work I gave it a quick once over and saw that when running, it's spraying out from this hose. I believe this is fuel directly below the fuel filter if I'm not mistaken? I've circled the area in red where it's leaking. https://imgur.com/a/1SUJHrP My question is - do both of these hoses lead to the head? I didn't have time to check the routing, so I'm currently looking through diagrams trying to find replacement hoses. One follow up question - I think I've found the hose number, but does anyone know the actual size of the hose? I may be able to source one for significantly cheaper than buying OEM if I know the sizing. Thanks |
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07-31-2020, 08:15 AM | #23318 |
07-31-2020, 08:26 AM | #23321 |
07-31-2020, 10:38 AM | #23323 | |
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https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/NBGH...nput=nbh+h357a How long of a line do I need? I'm assuming this goes to the fuel pump? |
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07-31-2020, 10:54 AM | #23324 | |
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07-31-2020, 10:57 AM | #23325 |
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If you have the metal lines underneath youll need about 5 feet for the 2 rear lines connecting to the tank and another 5 for the feed and return at the motor. Theres also about 4 inches of hose inside the tank connecting the fuel pump that tends to be corroded. 10 feet total. Thats enough hose to have a little extra just in case. Do one at a time so you dont cross the lines
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07-31-2020, 11:33 AM | #23326 |
It's a '92 S13 and I believe everything is stock. For someone who isn't too good with this stuff - this sounds like it's going to be a bit more difficult than I was originally thinking?
I was hoping I may be able to replace the line without lifting up the vehicle but it sounds like I need to get under it now based on your responses, and that the line travels quite a distance to the fuel tank, correct? For reference - my HF jack stands got recalled so I'm recently out of jack stands I really appreciate your responses. |
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07-31-2020, 12:00 PM | #23330 |
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If your fuel lines are cracking in one place you should go ahead and replace them all. You dont need to jack up the car unless its lowered or your a larger person . The rear lines are removed from the top from the inside of the trunk on one end then they connect underneath behind the differential. The front lines are all done from the top.
The line connecting the pump to the bracket is accessed by removing the sender from the top of the tank from inside the trunk. Theres a vent line that also runs from the tank to a little doohicky (rollover valve i think) about the passenger CV and then to the hardlines (another 3 feet of hose, so 13 feet total if you replace the vent line). Its kind of a pain to reach without long angle pliers to get the hose clamp off the doohicky. The doohicky is on a bracket that can also be unbolted. Then in the front that line run to the evap canister if you have one. Ive always just left it open or put a bolt in it at the front hardline tbh |
07-31-2020, 12:04 PM | #23331 |
That's super good information to know - thank you. I was looking for fuel line routing diagrams but I couldn't find any so I wasn't sure exactly where the lines were.
I'll replace these two lines right now, and then assuming theres no more leaks - work on replacing the remaining ones as quickly as I possibly can |
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07-31-2020, 12:21 PM | #23333 |
It's probably just my lack of knowledge honestly. Replacing the brakes / rotors / pads on this thing took me ages. Partly due to my own difficulties, then rust, needing to buy more tools, mistakes - etc. The first one took longer than the 4th one as I learned. YT videos taught me a lot but they don't always match every situation or hiccup.
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07-31-2020, 12:35 PM | #23334 |
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Sounds like youre on the right path. Buy some spray cans of penetrating oil and a harbor freight impact wrench for rusty bolt removal. Best tool ever made aside from wratchet wrenches. Just make sure to buy quality jack stands
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07-31-2020, 07:31 PM | #23335 |
Is there some secret to getting the clamps back on? They're not too terrible when they're easily accessed but the one coming off the hardline (to the filter inlet) I'm struggling with.
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08-01-2020, 09:19 PM | #23337 |
Dumb question: a 93 hatch should have an OBDI Consult Port, right? According to the FSM it should be behind the fuse lid.. But when i open up the fuse lid, there's no open-ended 14pin connector there. Am i missing something?
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08-02-2020, 01:04 PM | #23338 |
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Looked around for part numbers but can't seem to get reliable info. Does anyone know if the S14 in-cabin rear view mirrors were shared amongst any of the R-chassis cars? They appear somewhat similar to an R-33 but can't confirm.
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08-03-2020, 08:39 AM | #23339 | |
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http://www.texasnissans.com/tx/forum...ead.php?t=1494 (sorry the pix don't work but the info is good) |
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08-03-2020, 10:17 PM | #23340 | |
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180sx type x kouki, 1jz, 2jz, 300zx, clutch, faq, ka24de, n/a, non-turbo, question, redtop s13 180sx silvia, s14, search, solenoid, starter, z32, zenki |
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