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#2281 |
Post Whore!
![]() Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: MI
Age: 38
Posts: 3,916
Trader Rating: (131)
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Yep, fortunately it clears everything just fine! I'll have to get some shots showing clearance and whatnot when the interior is back together. I cut the carpet to allow the bar to pass through, but cover the mounting plates- similar to what I did for the cage. Wasn't too tight of a fit at all, though. (TWSS)
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#2282 |
Post Whore!
![]() Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Pair of dice, Norcal
Age: 34
Posts: 2,621
Trader Rating: (24)
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[QUOTE=scottie;4630165]
![]() I want a setup like this but a little spaced out to each other. thats baller Just curious, where are you relocating the battery? those battery wires are pretty short but beefy btw i really like your cage and bars setup, thats how i would have it on my car if i were to have it now. Cuso+miracleX+doluck fuuuuuuuuuuck thats titz QUOTE] |
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#2284 |
Zilvia Member
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Dude car looks great, and who cares about the fuse block mount it wont be seen so as long as it works right, also that thing must handle like a dream with all that support in there lol
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#2285 | |
Zilvia Member
![]() Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: New Zealand
Age: 32
Posts: 245
Trader Rating: (0)
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Quote:
And where he's putting his battery is on the previous page? P.S. Looks really good Damon, I think you might win the race haha. |
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#2286 | |
Post Whore!
![]() Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: MI
Age: 38
Posts: 3,916
Trader Rating: (131)
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As posted on the previous page, the battery will be mounted in the spare tire well. I didn't have much time, but I managed to install the clutch fan, shroud, radiator, hoses, and intercooler last night before leaving for the in-law's for the weekend. I snuck out of the baby shower to make this post, lol. ![]() ![]() ![]() The main engine harness is installed. I need to lengthen the lower engine harness, and then that will be in good shape as well. Hopefully it will be ready to start up by this time next weekend. I'm going to slap it together with the current parts I have, make sure it runs, and then go back through it to pretty things up/replace some things/ do the new valve cover. My T-bolt clamps for the coolant hoses are on backorder for a couple weeks, and I need to order black couplers for the intercooler piping as well. Lots of little doo-dads like that. All in due time! |
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#2287 | |
Post Whore!
![]() Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: It's dark, and hell is hot!
Posts: 9,414
Trader Rating: (23)
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#2288 |
Post Whore!
![]() Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: MI
Age: 38
Posts: 3,916
Trader Rating: (131)
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lol, I do what I can man!
I got a chance to work on it quite a bit yesterday. I finished all of the interior wiring, shortened the lower engine harness and installed that, put the downpipe and exhaust back on, installed the fuel lines (temporary until i replace the fuel setup later this spring,) and finished the battery relocation. It was nice to hear the door chime and the fuel pump prime after about five months! I should be able to fire it up this weekend! If I don't hit any major snags, that is- lol. And finally- one shameless plug. Cusco strut braces! http://zilvia.net/f/sale-items/44919...-bars-s13.html |
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#2290 |
Post Whore!
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My friend's ask me why don't I remove the door chime. I tell them they are out of their damn minds, that sound is too nostalgic for me, if mine went out today I would buy another one. LOL
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#2291 |
Zilvia Addict
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Damnit, whenever I think about selling my car or ceasing parts purchases, I accidentally look at this thread and the mod bug gets me again.
Good stuff as always, can't wait to see it all back together. |
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#2296 |
AFC #1
![]() Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: 昨晩あなたのお母さんの家
Posts: 20,181
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ProTip: Turn the phone sideways for widescreen...
I forget about mine. Start the car up with the door open and I'm like what's wrong? S13 is a much nicer tone than the S14.
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#2298 | |
Post Whore!
![]() Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: MI
Age: 38
Posts: 3,916
Trader Rating: (131)
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Quote:
Not a lot to report, other than my rear brake lines showing up yesterday: ![]() I might have some time to work on it a little bit tonight. |
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#2300 |
Post Whore!
![]() Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: MI
Age: 38
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^ I don't know what that means.
![]() Last night was another busy night, but I managed to sneak into the garage for about twenty five minutes or so to get some work done. When we replaced the metal where the battery tray used to be, I didn’t have a way to tell where to cut the hole for the intercooler piping without dropping the engine back in. Since that would have been a lot of work, I decided to just cut it after the bay was painted- even though I had no idea how I was going to do it. I’ve been thinking about how to approach this for a while now, and am pleased to say I figured out a solution yesterday. I’m sure there are easier ways to go about it, but this is what I came up with: 1. Wrap the intercooler pipe that needs to pass through the sheet metal in painter’s tape, sticky side OUT. Wrap tightly so that you get the exact shape of the piping: ![]() Wrap it again, this time with the sticky side towards the piping. You should have the pipe covered in tape without any stickiness touching the outside or the pipe itself. 2. Carefully cut the tape off of the intercooler piping. Be sure not to smash it up or anything so that it maintains its shape: ![]() 3. Tape the “mock” pipe back together along the seam that you just cut to remove it from the actual piping. Install it into position, trimming away any extra tape at the bottom until the mock pipe is flush with the metal of the bay : ![]() 4. Draw a circle onto the metal (or tape over the metal in this case) to show where the piping will run through the sheet metal: ![]() 5. Cut the hole in the sheet metal. I used my power drill and a 3.5″ hole saw bit that I picked up from Home Depot. ![]() ![]() And wallah! If things went well for you, you should have a pretty solid looking pass-through for your intercooler piping. Mine could have been centered a little better and the hole diamater could have been a little smaller probably, but I am really happy with how it turned out. The size of this hole matches the one in the other side of the bay that was there when I bought the car. ![]() ![]() I’m really pleased with how the bay is coming together. Keep in mind that I have to make a second pass through and add some more small details- nice hardware, new valve cover setup, -AN fittings and lines, a new fuel setup, etc. For now I am just going to get the car running to ensure that the wiring is in good shape, get the interior back together, and then get into the fine details while I wait for my wheels to be done! ![]() Not a lot else needs to be in the bay. The coolant overflow will be under the cooling shroud, so that won’t be seen. The only other items coming into the bay to make the car run will be the MAF, intake pipe/filter, and the boost controller. Should be pretty happy with it when I am done! |
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#2302 |
Post Whore!
![]() Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Whittier (562)
Age: 34
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looks great dude. im going to try your method on drilling a clean hole for the cold pipe. one thing that bugs me is a hole for the cold pipe that looks like the hulk punch thru it.
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#2303 |
Zilvia Junkie
![]() Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Atlanta, GA
Age: 32
Posts: 430
Trader Rating: (8)
![]() Feedback Score: 8 reviews
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I check out your thread almost every morning to see if there is a new update. One of my favorite builds i have ever seen!
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#2304 |
Nissanaholic!
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#2305 |
Post Whore!
![]() Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Granada Hills, CA
Age: 43
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edit (the picture of your engine bay from the front gave the illusion there was an a/n male fitting on the rear exhaust side of your valve cover. that's the block, my bad) but I'll leave the below either way.
please tell me your rear -an fitting on the valve cover going back to the block drainback is -10 if you're going to run. I guess I ran into the snafu of welding -8's because that's what I got on everything else, and turns out -8 is way too small for that fucker out back and that's my bad. I dunno why I decided to make everything -8 last minute. I knew I was going to make the rear one -10 for some reason And now I have to run a -8 to -10 expander fitting because I'm too lazy to buy the -10 weldon and re-paint this valve cover lol. |
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#2306 |
Post Whore!
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Do the valve cover fittings need to be hooked up on an SR? I was going to remove the PCV system and the valve cover fittings like I did on my KA because long hair don't care.
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#2308 |
Post Whore!
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Well, they would not be capped off, just left open. I know the S13 valve cover squirts out a considerable amount of oil, but I assume that should not be a problem with the S14/S15 valve cover baffle.
Sorry for cluttering up the thread. ![]() |
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#2309 |
Post Whore!
![]() Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: 千葉県/Virginia/Under my 240
Age: 42
Posts: 2,833
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+1...Makes it looks so much better and helps any rubbing issues...for some reason it's the small details like this I appreciate on a car.
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#2310 | ||
Zilvia.net Advertiser
![]() Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Normal, IL
Age: 50
Posts: 2,946
Trader Rating: (163)
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Quote:
Quote:
McMaster-Carr Click on the rubber edge trim. |
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