|
Chat General Discussion About The Nissan 240SX and Nissan Z Cars |
|
Thread Tools | Display Modes |
08-12-2018, 12:40 PM | #22081 |
AFC #1
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: 昨晩あなたのお母さんの家
Posts: 20,181
Trader Rating: (3)
Feedback Score: 3 reviews
|
Highway speeds you should get enough air thru the bumper to not even need a fan. Do you have the stock undertray?
__________________
Comments should be taken as Opinions not as Statements of Fact |
Sponsored Links |
08-12-2018, 12:44 PM | #22082 | |
Post Whore!
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: LAND of the LOST
Posts: 4,083
Trader Rating: (92)
Feedback Score: 92 reviews
|
Small Questions Thread (SEARCH FIRST! Use this instead of making NEW threads)
Quote:
That plastic piece ? Negative on that ghost rider .. when i bought the shell it never came with it. But honestly how many of us have that piece still ? I am using an LRB cooling panel up to .. head light covers/ and center piece minus the hood latch cut out Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
|
08-12-2018, 03:34 PM | #22083 |
Zilvia Addict
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Near Pittsburgh, PA
Posts: 637
Trader Rating: (1)
Feedback Score: 1 reviews
|
What he said. Highway speeds you shouldn't need your fans.
What temp sensor are we using? OEM or aftermarket? (And I saw your post about the discrepancy between the PFC And EVDM. Go by the PFC for now with the lower reading). With everything you're telling me. And if those fans are really pulling air like that, I'm wondering if you're system is fine and you're just getting fake news / false Intel. Do not drop to a colder thermostat. That's poor practice and unnecessary. OEM one is just fine. Also, Have we used infrared on the SR water outlet to compare that reading with the gauges? I really don't think you should have to be this intrusive, but at the end of the day if everything else is proving out, maybe we wanna pop that water pump and have a looksee... EDIT: Also. You never stated you actually verified the thermostat. Just that it was brand new and you threw it in. I would verify the temps of when it cracks and when it fully opens so I know whereabouts my temps should fall. They should be within like 5° of that I think. |
08-12-2018, 03:43 PM | #22084 |
Zilvia Addict
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Near Pittsburgh, PA
Posts: 637
Trader Rating: (1)
Feedback Score: 1 reviews
|
Consecutive post. Never got an answer gents...
S13 w/ '97+ Q45 diff swap for 3.69 ratio. Pretty sure I got it down, just want someone to check the work. Already have a '95 or '96 J30 diff in the car with 3x2 stubs and axles. '97+ Q45 stubs bolt to J30 5-bolt axles? And these axles swap directly into the s13 hubs? Other option is the pre '97 Q45 stubs w/ z32TT/Q45 6-bolt axles and would need z32 TT hubs right? And If one was retaining the s13 3x2 half shafts and just bolting in the q45 diff could they just pop out the stubs and pop the ones from the J30 in? (I'm actually now pretty sure I'm gonna scrap going with the q45 diff because i want a higher numerical gear that 3.69, but would like those questions above answered.) If using a Ford 8.8" diff, what driveshaft do you use? Does the stock one bolt up? Axles/half-shaft options? |
08-12-2018, 04:11 PM | #22085 | |
Zilvia FREAK!
|
Quote:
|
|
08-12-2018, 05:19 PM | #22086 |
Zilvia Addict
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Near Pittsburgh, PA
Posts: 637
Trader Rating: (1)
Feedback Score: 1 reviews
|
Ducting is def good. Stock undertray is not required, does not direct air from bumper to rad, and doesn't really make a difference.
I don't think that's his problem here. |
08-12-2018, 06:09 PM | #22087 | |
Zilvia FREAK!
|
Quote:
His setup sounds like it should be running perfectly. So he either isn't moving enough air across the radiator, is over thinking the exact temps he's seeing, or has a small leak in a hose causing the system to not pressurize properly and read hotter than it should. |
|
08-12-2018, 07:26 PM | #22088 | |
Post Whore!
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: LAND of the LOST
Posts: 4,083
Trader Rating: (92)
Feedback Score: 92 reviews
|
Quote:
As far as leaks go I have none my car sits for a week or two and not a single drop of coolant can be seen, i do check everyday i have a some oil seaping from my oil pan so i consistently check just to make sure the leak hasn’t gotten worse, and also can visually see no coolant on my garage floor. As far as overthink temps, temps posted are temps coming from PFC commander / and after market coolant temp sensor (PBM EVDM) placed in upper rad hose. Can’t really over think those when it’s a digital read out. I do however understand temps coming from upper rad hose will be at its hottest since it hasn’t gone through the radiator. But if you are looking at PFC temps which coolant has already gone through the rad i read anywhere between 85-90’C (highway/on off boost/and have to have the heater on blast) which is a a tab bit over the 80-82’c that most are stating to be within normal OP range. Next step for be would be ducting. Also forgot to mention i did get my car painted .. and I’m not to sure how well they covered stuff so would overspray gunk up the cooling fins, causing issues? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
|
08-12-2018, 07:37 PM | #22089 |
Zilvia Addict
Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: Where the bad guys are
Posts: 886
Trader Rating: (6)
Feedback Score: 6 reviews
|
A/T Unit
For those who did the 5 Speed swap, I noticed an extra doo-hicky dangling between my legs when driving and Im pretty sure it's the A/T Control Unit. If Im running a Manual SR20 ECU, can I just unplug the A/T unit without any issues? I dont have anywhere to mount it since the Clutch pedal is now in the way.
Also, does anyone know what the Smart Entrance Control Unit is? Do I need it if I just use the key to get in? Okay another question, where in the firewall do people route their wiring for gauges? I have an AFR unit to mount so it is gonna be running some extra, thicker wires on top of just power and ground.
__________________
Skurr Skurr |
08-12-2018, 07:37 PM | #22090 | |
Post Whore!
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: LAND of the LOST
Posts: 4,083
Trader Rating: (92)
Feedback Score: 92 reviews
|
Small Questions Thread (SEARCH FIRST! Use this instead of making NEW threads)
Quote:
So if we are going with PFC degree I’m sitting at 85-90’C (highway/ on off boost/ efans on/ heater on blast) if anything i wouldn’t have to have any of these parameters on in order to maintain a stable temp. Still gets me that most are staying 80-82’C is their norm and i can guarantee they aren’t running the heater on etc. I didn’t verify the thermo. because it was new, i know it wouldnt hurt to check, but based on my description the lower hose gets hot at or around the temp the OEM thermo opens. So i assume it works, if it was cold as compared to the upper rad hose at 180-190ish then i would say that that would be an issue, but that isn’t the case. Hot lower hose would indicate the thermo opening. Inspecting Water pump ... what would I be looking for? Normally when the water pump goes out it’s because of a leak and as mentioned before I haven’t seen a drop of coolant. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
|
08-12-2018, 08:58 PM | #22091 |
Zilvia Junkie
|
Small Questions Thread (SEARCH FIRST! Use this instead of making NEW threads)
Anyone know why my SR does this hiss when it shuts off? Left it to shut down on a 1:30 min turbo timer sequence. Changed the oil about 500 miles ago with 15w-50 if that matters, thanks.
https://youtu.be/mFOjRG3_aY0 Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
08-13-2018, 04:44 AM | #22093 |
Zilvia Addict
|
I took mine off to do some work...during the late spring. Summer downpours told me put that shit back on because water flying into the belts and making them slip sucks. I am talking major deluges, buckets so hard your wipers can't keep up. I think I'll get one of those nice metal ones
__________________
1996 Zenki 'Baraketsu Tenshi', Burst Angel My work in progress... |
08-13-2018, 06:58 AM | #22094 | |
Zilvia FREAK!
|
Quote:
Leave the entrance unit in place. I think it does more than just keyless entry. Drill a new hole, or fish wires into an existing opening. I actually repurposed several wires from the auto harness to avoid running new wires into the cabin. |
|
08-13-2018, 07:19 AM | #22095 | |
Zilvia FREAK!
|
Quote:
They'd have to paint the whole radiator to cause a problem, and most of the time it's only the bottom of the AC condenser that gets a bit of over spray. |
|
08-13-2018, 07:53 AM | #22096 | |
Post Whore!
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: LAND of the LOST
Posts: 4,083
Trader Rating: (92)
Feedback Score: 92 reviews
|
Quote:
Where did you find that in the FSM, would like to see that for myself. Stock fan doesn’t come on til 95’C interesting ... also i run 210’C free way but i still have to run my heater and efans, I’ll try to cruise the freeway without those parameters and see if there is a change. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
|
08-13-2018, 09:04 AM | #22097 | |
Zilvia FREAK!
|
Quote:
http://zilvia.net/f/showpost.php?p=6...ostcount=22054 I think you're issue is worthy of it's own thread at this point, it's beyond a "small" question. Edit: also, not all leaks result in puddles. I made the bone-head mistake of not tightening down one of the clamps that feed the heater core after I did my engine swap. Car ran fine, except temps weren't very stable in the winter and I noticed coolant was "disappearing". Didn't notice any obvious leaks. Then just noticed the loose clamp one day while working on something else. My Armada also has a similar issue right now, the lower radiator hose is wet from a slow leak, but never noticed any puddles and have had to top off coolant once. |
|
08-13-2018, 12:33 PM | #22098 |
Zilvia Addict
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Near Pittsburgh, PA
Posts: 637
Trader Rating: (1)
Feedback Score: 1 reviews
|
He's using the EVDM's temp sensor. I'm betting his system is just fine.
My guess is the resistance in the sensor is a little different than the stock one or whatever the PFC is looking for which is skewing the voltage to the ECU / PFC at operating temp. My money is almost 100% on that at this point. My friend Jeremy has a '95 Eagle Talon and I thunk he literally just went through JUST that. I had to go into my FSM i have for him to give him the resistances he should've been seeing at the specified temps. S-Nation. It'd be a good idea to verify the thermostat so we can verify were dealing with a 170 and not a 180. Also, If you have any literature om the EVDM, then supply it. I'll do my own research to try and find the specs and also see what the stock one should be at or what the PFC is looking for. If you have the values / table for the PFC, I'm curious what that is looking for. My hope is we find the two to have different values which would cause your "issue." Edit, almost forgot. One more question actually. When you're cruising on the highway and the heater off. Do your temps continue to rise with no sign of stopping??? Or do they level out somewhere just north of where they should be? Can't believe i forgot to ask that question before. I might PM you to make this process easier... Lol. |
08-14-2018, 08:15 PM | #22099 |
Zilvia Junkie
|
Does anyone know if the coolbox is rhd specific or it’ll work in a lhd car, idk if the gloveboxes are shaped differently which is why im askinh. Or if anyone has one in their 240? Thank you. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
08-15-2018, 06:02 AM | #22102 |
Zilvia FREAK!
|
Pretty sure I've seen these installed in LHD cars. No idea if fabrication was needed, but it's doable.
|
08-17-2018, 07:01 AM | #22103 |
Zilvia Addict
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Baltimore, MD
Posts: 625
Trader Rating: (10)
Feedback Score: 10 reviews
|
Can anybody answer this for me, i cant seem to get a straight answer...
Do s13 blacktop motors use the same oem hydraulic lifters as the s13 redtops? I can only find oem replacements for "s13 redtop straight cam motors" but i have an s13 blacktop I do not want to go solid lifters if i dont have to. Thank you to anyone who can help!
__________________
1990 s13 hatch sr20det 2001 Lexus is300 |
08-17-2018, 07:55 AM | #22104 | |
Zilvia FREAK!
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Toronto, ON
Age: 36
Posts: 1,182
Trader Rating: (0)
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
|
Quote:
http://zilvia.net/f/showthread.php?t=101705 |
|
08-17-2018, 09:06 AM | #22105 | ||
Zilvia FREAK!
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: SHOW ME WHAT YOU GOT
Posts: 1,115
Trader Rating: (1)
Feedback Score: 1 reviews
|
Quote:
Quote:
I saw some on ebay a second ago. they're probably not OEM, but those have got to be next to non existent by now. |
||
08-17-2018, 03:46 PM | #22106 |
Zilvia FREAK!
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: SHOW ME WHAT YOU GOT
Posts: 1,115
Trader Rating: (1)
Feedback Score: 1 reviews
|
has anyone had experience with KTS arms? I searched and all I found are 10+ year old threads that talked about kts/silk road coilovers. I am after a RUCA for my altezza and don't want to spend 800 bones for s9.
|
08-17-2018, 04:34 PM | #22107 | |
AFC #1
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: 昨晩あなたのお母さんの家
Posts: 20,181
Trader Rating: (3)
Feedback Score: 3 reviews
|
Quote:
__________________
Comments should be taken as Opinions not as Statements of Fact |
|
08-19-2018, 12:43 AM | #22108 |
New Question: TP value Sanity Check
I'm hoping someone who has tuned a redtop SR20DET with stock MAF and injectors can confirm what I am seeing in my recent datalogs.
Basically the MAF voltage maxes out at 5.11v @ 7000 rpm, 73% throttle, and at TP=76 (but the stock TP fuel and timing scale goes to 104) Applying the common calc for TP~(Q*K/N) /256 along with the K and VQ values from the rom it looks like the 6 or so cells in the highest load, highest rpm region of the fuel/timing maps would not every be used since the MAF voltage is maxed out before you'd ever get to that part of the map. In order to reach the last load column of the map (TP=104) the MAF would have to be maxed out at 5000 rpms. So effectively the last load column (104) can only be accessed at 5000 rpm or below and the 2nd to last column (92) can only be accessed below 6000 rpms. Does this sound right? https://photos.app.goo.gl/GckYHS9s4MdVrgMn9 |
|
08-19-2018, 05:48 PM | #22109 |
Post Whore!
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: South Florida
Age: 41
Posts: 4,829
Trader Rating: (17)
Feedback Score: 17 reviews
|
Okay I finally sat down to buy those 26mm rotors, so I could weigh them etc..
And found this So seriously. Why are there two different versions of 26mm rotors? Which one do I buy? I have some old Aluminum 26mm calipers to slap on the ol 240 'height' refers to.... the hub part? I mean wtf is this lol |
08-19-2018, 06:59 PM | #22110 | |
Zilvia FREAK!
|
Quote:
xxx-42050 is for 30mm rotors. The 2 small holes are there to help remove the rotors when it's time to swap them out. Just find a bolt that fits and drive it in there. |
|
Bookmarks |
Tags |
180sx type x kouki, 1jz, 2jz, 300zx, clutch, faq, ka24de, n/a, non-turbo, question, redtop s13 180sx silvia, s14, search, solenoid, starter, z32, zenki |
|
|