Small Questions Thread (SEARCH FIRST! Use this instead of making NEW threads)

[e1_griego]

I thought the mishi caps were junk. You might test the cap to see, or try replacing.

My SR always ran hotter than I wanted with e-fans. With the clutch fan I never see more than 82 or 83*C on the PFC (griffin radiator, stock clutch fan), and usually it's just stuck at 80*C.

The upper hose is the hottest part of the cooling system and back in the day (when I still had e-fans) I basically had the exact same worry that you're having since I had a sensor in the upper hose, too. Temps would creep on the freeway higher than I felt like they should.

I ditched everything and started over.

[LoSt180]

This is where the factory manuals come in handy. 170 is the temp that the thermostat starts to open and isn't fully open until around 194 degrees. 203 is when low speed fan kicks on 212 is high fan speed. These temps are actually pretty static across Nissan engines: same as the KA manual, SR manual, and my G35 manual. Yes, I know the s-chassis has a clutch fan, but it also has an electric fan controlled by the ECU. It normally is only turned on for the AC, but that really just because the clutch fan is always pulling air.

Temps around 200 are perfectly normal. If you're getting up around 220 on hot laps, then you might start worrying a little.

The radiator cap sets the cooling system pressure, which to simplify this: raises the boiling point of water. Stock .9 bar cap raises pure water boiling point to 240, a Nismo cap will raise that to something like 260 degrees. Net effect is that the cooling system can work more efficiently to remove heat.

People are over thinking this stuff if they think anything between 180-210 is not "normal". If the car is consistently outside of that range, then you have a problem.

[S-Nation S13]

Originally Posted by LoSt180

This is where the factory manuals come in handy. 170 is the temp that the thermostat starts to open and isn't fully open until around 194 degrees. 203 is when low speed fan kicks on 212 is high fan speed. These temps are actually pretty static across Nissan engines: same as the KA manual, SR manual, and my G35 manual. Yes, I know the s-chassis has a clutch fan, but it also has an electric fan controlled by the ECU. It normally is only turned on for the AC, but that really just because the clutch fan is always pulling air.

Temps around 200 are perfectly normal. If you're getting up around 220 on hot laps, then you might start worrying a little.

The radiator cap sets the cooling system pressure, which to simplify this: raises the boiling point of water. Stock .9 bar cap raises pure water boiling point to 240, a Nismo cap will raise that to something like 260 degrees. Net effect is that the cooling system can work more efficiently to remove heat.

People are over thinking this stuff if they think anything between 180-210 is not "normal". If the car is consistently outside of that range, then you have a problem.

(Before I started I cracked the bleeder bolt on the water neck and coolant flowed out)
I re-bleed the coolant system, this time I ran the car longer than I normally would, heater on high temp on hot.

Car ran in the 185-190’s 90’F ambient temp spirited driving going on / off boost lol didn’t have to turn the heater on this time so for my this was good. I’ll be driving her on the freeway and that’ll be the true test for me. Drove for about 45 min and also idle 20 (my fans are on a manual switch and temps were at 180-185’s same ambient temp as mentioned above) I did notice that there is a difference of about 10 degrees from what my EVDM spits out VS my PFC Commander.

Where in the FSM did you find that info on when the fans kicks on i would like to review that section. I know about the AC electric fan but from what I heard when those are switched on the car runs hotter as compared to having them off.



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[LoSt180]

Originally Posted by S-Nation S13

(Before I started I cracked the bleeder bolt on the water neck and coolant flowed out)
I re-bleed the coolant system, this time I ran the car longer than I normally would, heater on high temp on hot.

Car ran in the 185-190’s 90’F ambient temp spirited driving going on / off boost lol didn’t have to turn the heater on this time so for my this was good. I’ll be driving her on the freeway and that’ll be the true test for me. Drove for about 45 min and also idle 20 (my fans are on a manual switch and temps were at 180-185’s same ambient temp as mentioned above) I did notice that there is a difference of about 10 degrees from what my EVDM spits out VS my PFC Commander.

Where in the FSM did you find that info on when the fans kicks on i would like to review that section. I know about the AC electric fan but from what I heard when those are switched on the car runs hotter as compared to having them off.



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Combo of the EC and LC sections.

[I'm Redline]

Originally Posted by S-Nation S13

Coolant Question .. yes I’ve search but still no definitive answer.

Redtop SR20det

* what is the normal operating temp for this damn thing?

I’ve read some say 200, but also say 200 is to hot.

I noticed that on idle and city driving I’m pretty stable at 180ish , when I drive on the freeway it’s a different story underboost/long drives the highest I’ve seen 93’C (PFC Commander) about 200’F!

I have an aftermarket temp gauge (PBM EVDM) and the highest I’ve seen that thing is 215-220’F- ish TEMP sensor place on upper radiator hose.

When I reach 200ish I let of the gas and pretty much coast it (i have the heater on max) and it usually cools it down 190’s. I consistently have to have the heater running to help cool the engine. Heater core isn’t clogged it’s a damn sauna in the cabin which tells me that coolant is flowing in and out the core.

Any advice? I plan on burping the system tomorrow. I have no leaks what so ever so please don’t tell me I have a leak (i take my car out every once in a while it’ll usually sit for a week or two and i don’t see a spot of coolant on the ground)

Any one have tips on burping the system. I usually have the front of the car jacked-up, idle the car until upper and lower hose gets hot, heater on blast highest blower speed and cranked to the highest temp, i have a funnel to let bubbles escape through the filler cap, I massage the upper hose to help the air bubbles escape. * anything else i can do please fill me in, it’s not normal to keep having to run the heater just to drive the car on long trips.

MISHIMOTO Aluminum Rad
MISHIMOTO Rad cap
MISHIMOTO Dual efans with aluminum shroud

PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE don’t tell me it’s my efan set-up I’ve seen built SR’s run the same efan set-up and run with no issues.




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Get a fan controller for your dual fans. Run both fans. this will let your engine stay in the 175* - 190* zone even on the hottest days

[dorkidori_s13]

Originally Posted by S-Nation S13

MISHIMOTO Dual efans with aluminum shroud

PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE don’t tell me it’s my efan set-up I’ve seen built SR’s run the same efan set-up and run with no issues.

its your e-fan... go get yourself a gk tech clutch fan blade, an OE fan shroud and a NISMO thermostat, youll be amazed at the difference

[mr.nismo.]

Originally Posted by S-Nation S13

Coolant Question .. yes I’ve search but still no definitive answer.

Redtop SR20det

* what is the normal operating temp for this damn thing?

I’ve read some say 200, but also say 200 is to hot.

I noticed that on idle and city driving I’m pretty stable at 180ish , when I drive on the freeway it’s a different story underboost/long drives the highest I’ve seen 93’C (PFC Commander) about 200’F!

I have an aftermarket temp gauge (PBM EVDM) and the highest I’ve seen that thing is 215-220’F- ish TEMP sensor place on upper radiator hose.

When I reach 200ish I let of the gas and pretty much coast it (i have the heater on max) and it usually cools it down 190’s. I consistently have to have the heater running to help cool the engine. Heater core isn’t clogged it’s a damn sauna in the cabin which tells me that coolant is flowing in and out the core.

Any advice? I plan on burping the system tomorrow. I have no leaks what so ever so please don’t tell me I have a leak (i take my car out every once in a while it’ll usually sit for a week or two and i don’t see a spot of coolant on the ground)

Any one have tips on burping the system. I usually have the front of the car jacked-up, idle the car until upper and lower hose gets hot, heater on blast highest blower speed and cranked to the highest temp, i have a funnel to let bubbles escape through the filler cap, I massage the upper hose to help the air bubbles escape. * anything else i can do please fill me in, it’s not normal to keep having to run the heater just to drive the car on long trips.

MISHIMOTO Aluminum Rad
MISHIMOTO Rad cap
MISHIMOTO Dual efans with aluminum shroud

PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE don’t tell me it’s my efan set-up I’ve seen built SR’s run the same efan set-up and run with no issues.




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Perfectly normal. Getting readings on the upper hose is always going to be the hottest. Ive ran efans for years with no issues. My thermoswitch will turn on between 205-210° and shut off at 185°. If your running the car hard and can't get it to come down, work on getting ducting done. It makes a world of a difference. Also look into a swirl tank, it will help as well. Once you hit 220 in the upper hose and it's not coming down, theres something underlying wrong.

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[S14DB]

Originally Posted by dorkidori_s13

its your e-fan... go get yourself a gk tech clutch fan blade, an OE fan shroud and a NISMO thermostat, youll be amazed at the difference

I wasn't. Much happier with my Maradyne m142k.

[dorkidori_s13]

Originally Posted by S14DB

I wasn't. Much happier with my Maradyne m142k.

hell, in the middle of a 118 degree day 2 weeks ago, my S13 BARELY saw 190-200 degrees at stop lights after multiple freeway trips with that setup on my Koyo radiator. sat around 175-185 for the most part.

in the fall, winter and spring... my SR rarely pushes past 175 degrees

[1on1]

My car has been sitting for almost 2 years and occasionally started every 2 weeks or month. Before my I moved, I changed out my engine oil and oil filter.

My question is, is it still ok to use the same oil filter since my oil is clean (slightly clear on the dipstick)? I run the Mobil Delvac Super 1300 with a wix oil filter. Thank you in advance for your responses.

[[240sx]]

^^ Since it was occasionally started I'd say it's fine. I'd be more concern with the coolant. Still, if you intend to start driving it $30 on a oil change is cheap insurance.

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[1on1]

Thanks! Basically, all the fluids in my car had been changed before moving (brake fluid, power steering fluid, transmission fluid, and diff fluid) since I was prepping to attend 1 more event before I moved, but I wasnt able too. The cooling system was refreshed last year as well (new rad, waterpump and thermostat). In addition, I only use distilled water and radiation coolant (not premixed).

[Bleakley]

'97+ Q45 diff swap for 3.69 ratio. Reading so much I'm getting annoyed. Pretty sure I got it down, just want someone to check the work. Seems there's more than one way to skin this cat.
I want to use the Q45 diff, housing, etc. in order to retain the superior ring and pinion. I guess all the other R200's don't have as thick of a pinion.
So this leaves me only to play with swapping axle stubs / half shafts.
Am I understanding this correctly? This is all going into an S13 btw. Already have a '95 or '96 J30 diff in the car with 3x2 stubs and axles.

'97+ Q45 stubs bolt to J30 5-bolt axles. And these axles swap directly into the s13 hubs.
Other option is the pre '97 Q45 stubs w/ z32TT/Q45 6-bolt axles and would need z32 TT hubs.

If one was retaining the s13 3x2 half shafts and just bolting in the q45 diff could they just pop out the stubs and pop the ones from the J30 in?


EDIT: If using a Ford 8.8" diff, what driveshaft do you use? Does the stock one bolt up? Axles/half-shaft options?

[S14DB]

Originally Posted by 1on1

Thanks! Basically, all the fluids in my car had been changed before moving (brake fluid, power steering fluid, transmission fluid, and diff fluid) since I was prepping to attend 1 more event before I moved, but I wasnt able too. The cooling system was refreshed last year as well (new rad, waterpump and thermostat). In addition, I only use distilled water and radiation coolant (not premixed).

You should still change the oil every 6 months. The oil will be fine, but the additive(detergents, ect) package breaks down over time. Also, if you are just idling and not driving around and getting it up to temp the oil will accumulate fuel and water.

[Jacob Butler]

dumb question: when i put my 240sx on jack stands and run the car i can go up to the 5th gear 5500 rpm limit (front wheels secured of course)

But when driving on the freeway it seems i am limited to around 70mph. Engine just loses all power and starts engine braking but comes back on after a few secs. Happens in 3rd 4th and 5th. It usually happens around 3500 in 5th but if i floor it before then it doesn't trigger it??? Seems load related, fuel pump? fuel pressure regulator? Pretty sure the vss is bad, speedo never worked and odometer recently stopped turning, but im not too concerned with those, more so the 70 mph issue.

Would the vss cause a load related issue like this? obvious thing is too replace vss but wont have this cluster long anyways. Also i already tried cutting wire 32 for the speed limiter with no luck.

Thanks for your time

[1on1]

Originally Posted by S14DB

You should still change the oil every 6 months. The oil will be fine, but the additive(detergents, ect) package breaks down over time. Also, if you are just idling and not driving around and getting it up to temp the oil will accumulate fuel and water.

Good to know about the oil change. As for idling, I would let it idle for about 3-5mins then take it for a spin around the block (less than a mile).

[caspa]

Anyone what this part is for?? 15241 - 40f00

https://www.courtesyparts.com/oem-pa...tor-1524140f00

[Agamemnon]

Originally Posted by caspa

Anyone what this part is for?? 15241 - 40f00

https://www.courtesyparts.com/oem-pa...tor-1524140f00

Oil pressure regulator valve most commonly used on 300zx.. 2 per car.

[S14DB]

Originally Posted by 1on1

Good to know about the oil change. As for idling, I would let it idle for about 3-5mins then take it for a spin around the block (less than a mile).

You need more than that at temperature to boil off all the water/fuel in the oil. Idling is actually making it worse. Better off starting it up for a minute and then take it for a drive. 3-5mins on a cold start is just dumping fuel into the oil till it warms up. Idle after the drive if you think it's necessary. Start up idle for 30-60 seconds then a 10min drive would be the best.

Originally Posted by Jacob Butler

dumb question: when i put my 240sx on jack stands and run the car i can go up to the 5th gear 5500 rpm limit (front wheels secured of course)

But when driving on the freeway it seems i am limited to around 70mph. Engine just loses all power and starts engine braking but comes back on after a few secs. Happens in 3rd 4th and 5th. It usually happens around 3500 in 5th but if i floor it before then it doesn't trigger it??? Seems load related, fuel pump? fuel pressure regulator? Pretty sure the vss is bad, speedo never worked and odometer recently stopped turning, but im not too concerned with those, more so the 70 mph issue.

Would the vss cause a load related issue like this? obvious thing is too replace vss but wont have this cluster long anyways. Also i already tried cutting wire 32 for the speed limiter with no luck.

Thanks for your time

Cutting 32 just stops the ECU from getting signal from the VSS. Do you have the 5th gear sensor hooked up?

When you say 3500, do you mean closer to 2500?

How is your idle?

[Jacob Butler]

Cutting 32 just stops the ECU from getting signal from the VSS. Do you have the 5th gear sensor hooked up?

When you say 3500, do you mean closer to 2500?

How is your idle?[/QUOTE]

Yes 4th and 5th are hooked up. Sometimes the problem will also happen in 3rd gear.

By 3500 I mean like 3300-3800 or so it inst always exactly the same but not 2500. I tried flooring it at like 2000 in 5th to trigger it but it didn't work. In 3rd it happens near redline and in 4th about 4000 or so.

My idle used to be really bad but I fixed a lot of things and now it's like 750 rpm with a very slight fluctuation barely even noticable.
Thanks for the reply

[mr.nismo.]

Originally Posted by Jacob Butler

Cutting 32 just stops the ECU from getting signal from the VSS. Do you have the 5th gear sensor hooked up?

When you say 3500, do you mean closer to 2500?

How is your idle?

Yes 4th and 5th are hooked up. Sometimes the problem will also happen in 3rd gear.

By 3500 I mean like 3300-3800 or so it inst always exactly the same but not 2500. I tried flooring it at like 2000 in 5th to trigger it but it didn't work. In 3rd it happens near redline and in 4th about 4000 or so.

My idle used to be really bad but I fixed a lot of things and now it's like 750 rpm with a very slight fluctuation barely even noticable.
Thanks for the reply[/QUOTE]Is your car a single cam? Had the same issue with mine. It was because the ECU wasn't getting a speedo signal

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[Jacob Butler]

Is your car a single cam? Had the same issue with mine. It was because the ECU wasn't getting a speedo signal

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk[/QUOTE]

Hmmm I will try reconnecting the wire and report back.



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[turboshoebox]

In drifting is it just me but they hydro-brake seems to be a thing mostly americans do? I don't see these on JDM cars or the weird looking "bash bars".

[1on1]

Originally Posted by S14DB

You need more than that at temperature to boil off all the water/fuel in the oil. Idling is actually making it worse. Better off starting it up for a minute and then take it for a drive. 3-5mins on a cold start is just dumping fuel into the oil till it warms up. Idle after the drive if you think it's necessary. Start up idle for 30-60 seconds then a 10min drive would be the best.

My car isnt registered atm so I don't want to risk driving it on the street. To be safe, I'll change the oil and filter and let my car sit until I'm able to reregister it again.

Originally Posted by turboshoebox

In drifting is it just me but they hydro-brake seems to be a thing mostly americans do? I don't see these on JDM cars or the weird looking "bash bars".

It seems like an American thing but I chose to go z32 rear brake setup because 1. My rear had issues locking up 2. Rear driver side caliper always seized up; it happened to me 3 times since I owned my car or I had bad luck.

[S-Nation S13]

Originally Posted by mr.nismo.

Perfectly normal. Getting readings on the upper hose is always going to be the hottest. Ive ran efans for years with no issues. My thermoswitch will turn on between 205-210° and shut off at 185°. If your running the car hard and can't get it to come down, work on getting ducting done. It makes a world of a difference. Also look into a swirl tank, it will help as well. Once you hit 220 in the upper hose and it's not coming down, theres something underlying wrong.

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So I’m still having to run the heater to help cool the engine down car sat at 200-209 freeway driving also on/off boost tried my best to make variations. My issue is running the heater still.


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[JrDarknes]

Upgraded to a RB26 150AMP Alternator. Tried to search how about to handle the fuse situation. Thought maybe it would need to be upgraded. Only found one site and was a bit confused.

What exactly do they mean about tapping off the alternator output. So just run a 4 gage wire off the back of the alternator (where you bolt the charge cable), install a inline fuse and then wire my electronics to it?

[DJTTon]

Originally Posted by JrDarknes

Upgraded to a RB26 150AMP Alternator. Tried to search how about to handle the fuse situation. Thought maybe it would need to be upgraded. Only found one site and was a bit confused.

What exactly do they mean about tapping off the alternator output. So just run a 4 gage wire off the back of the alternator (where you bolt the charge cable), install a inline fuse and then wire my electronics to it?

Yes, since the alternator can handle greater loads. Further it is good practice what they are suggesting in running a separate "tap" line off of the alternator for the larger load accessories instead of increasing the fuse size. Say if something blows on that line it would be harder to determine what blew if you had 1 line with big fuse or 2 lines with two fuses.

In this situations, the gauge wire and fuse rating would go hand in hand . Whether its 4 gauge or not, just make sure your fuse can handle the entire load of that line and that the wire/cable can supply enough current to power the load without getting hot/burning up; that would indicate your wire/cable isn't thick enough (basically).

[S14DB]

The power harness goes from the Battery to the Alternator then to the Starter. You can just run the new fused line off the Battery. The 75amp they are talking about is in the fuse box.

[Bleakley]

Originally Posted by S-Nation S13

So I’m still having to run the heater to help cool the engine down car sat at 200-209 freeway driving also on/off boost tried my best to make variations. My issue is running the heater still.


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Been so long I don't remember what my stock temps were. I don't think I was ever over 195 with the 170 thermostat if memory serves. If I started getting hot I flicked on the fans and my temps would plummet.
Pretty sure i saw in another post you got mishimoto rad and fans on switches.

Verify your fans work. And this is twofold. Not only should they turn on, but when your car is hot, try and feel if the fans are pushing / pulling a good bit of air. That air should be hot/stuffy. That's when you know you're getting good heat/energy transfer. If it's not hot and stuffy, and you're overheating... Time to start looking at why...
Idk what thermostat you have, but you HAVE to verify it's temperatures and it's working properly.. Stove with the pot of water and a Mercury thermometer or Infrared thermometer.
There is no reason for you to be overheating with two e-fans on switches. Def make sure you're getting proper circulation from the water pump through the rad.
Outlet hose really hot? Inlet should be a little cooler than outlet.
Idk about the mishimoto setup - but those Altima fans, with a properly modified shroud and the second fan spaced closer to the rad like the first one, should have ZERO issues cooling a mild to medium SR/KA-T 240.

[S-Nation S13]

Originally Posted by Bleakley

Been so long I don't remember what my stock temps were. I don't think I was ever over 195 with the 170 thermostat if memory serves. If I started getting hot I flicked on the fans and my temps would plummet.

Pretty sure i saw in another post you got mishimoto rad and fans on switches.



Verify your fans work. And this is twofold. Not only should they turn on, but when your car is hot, try and feel if the fans are pushing / pulling a good bit of air. That air should be hot/stuffy. That's when you know you're getting good heat/energy transfer. If it's not hot and stuffy, and you're overheating... Time to start looking at why...

Idk what thermostat you have, but you HAVE to verify it's temperatures and it's working properly.. Stove with the pot of water and a Mercury thermometer or Infrared thermometer.

There is no reason for you to be overheating with two e-fans on switches. Def make sure you're getting proper circulation from the water pump through the rad.

Outlet hose really hot? Inlet should be a little cooler than outlet.

Idk about the mishimoto setup - but those Altima fans, with a properly modified shroud and the second fan spaced closer to the rad like the first one, should have ZERO issues cooling a mild to medium SR/KA-T 240.

Fans work for sure I can hear them and i can see them operating, as far as moving air
when i stick my hand between the fans and the motor the air is hot coming from both fans like the air you would feel from a hand dryer in the restroom.

Thermo when I replaced it i bought an OEM one from FR Sports Water Pump was bought the same time and was OEM as well (the same day I bought my engine I bought these parts) roughly a year and a half now that i think about it.

MISHIMOTO set up was bought brand new as well

Upper hose gets hella hot, lower hose stays cold until i reach 180 ish then heats up as far as telling the difference between the two i only notice the difference when the thermostat is closed when it opens the lower hose is hot upper hose hot can’t really tell the difference.

As far as coolant goes it’s green so far no chocolate but i cringe at the fact that I’m reaching these temps on the freeway when I’ve gotten multiple confirmations of other people running between 80-85’C

With that being said, I’m starting to believe that I’m not getting adequate air through my radiator when I’m at idle in my garage as soon as i reach 190’F i switch my efans on and i started to see the temps go down but not (plummet) as you describe i held the engine at a steady 3500 rpm and i was steady 182-185’F i continually did this and was steady, but by no means i know that doing that can simulate my car underload.

Would getting a cooler 60’c thermo help my situation? Or just allow my engine to have coolant pass through the entire system faster. Kind of stupid to ask now because i bought one already. Also i plan boxing in my rad i.e foam insulator on the sides of the rad (the gap in between the rad and frame rails) to see if i can get more air through the rad.


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