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Chat General Discussion About The Nissan 240SX and Nissan Z Cars |
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09-11-2017, 03:29 PM | #21331 |
ITS LISA'S FAULT!!!
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yes! teardrops are horrible as they allow no frontal air flow to be drawn in to help cool the brakes. it was a night and day difference back in 2004 when i went from teardrops to G20 wheels.
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09-11-2017, 05:57 PM | #21332 | |
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Small Questions Thread (SEARCH FIRST! Use this instead of making NEW threads)
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09-11-2017, 06:52 PM | #21333 | |
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Quote:
That is, until I changed the brake pad compound. I don't know what the old pads were, probably like some stock replacement ceramics or something. I swapped to Hawk HP+ and problem solved. My trouble was always water temps, so after swapping to HP+ my water temp would signal the end of my session, instead of brake fade previously. With better tires and cooling I would have gone DTC-60 instead. But the HP+ were perfect for what my car was capable of. Looks like HP+ is as good as it gets for autocross too. They do have fantastic cold bite. Last edited by derass; 09-11-2017 at 07:47 PM.. |
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09-11-2017, 07:04 PM | #21334 |
Zilvia FREAK!
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Z32s had OEM air defectors. They bolted right up to my S14, might be able to fit an S13.
Last edited by LoSt180; 09-12-2017 at 09:00 AM.. |
09-11-2017, 09:56 PM | #21336 | ||
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Quote:
Quote:
http://zilvia.net/f/showthread.php?t=434425&page=2
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09-12-2017, 04:47 AM | #21337 | |
Zilvia Addict
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Like the other guy said, FNO1's didn't solve the problem, and they are open. On pads: Watch out you do not put race type pads on your street car. They take longer to heat up, and remove braking distance because you are not hard on them to heat them up. Sport/Stage I/Street-Track is as hard a pad as you want to run on your daily. How well does StopTech Sport level work? In my zenki, I am STILL trying to get my stopping distance back to the stop line, not ten feet back. The first ten feet was easy to fix, but 20' of brand new extra braking distance is GOOD. StopTech Centric upgraded OE calipers, Sport Rotors, Sport Pads, Sport SS Lines, Dot 3/4 Fluid)
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09-12-2017, 08:43 AM | #21339 | |
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Small Questions Thread (SEARCH FIRST! Use this instead of making NEW threads)
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There is one lol we need to revive it. I think it could use a better civilized title though... https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink?sha...5&share_type=t Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
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09-12-2017, 11:26 AM | #21341 | |
Zilvia Junkie
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Fast forward to this weekend, bought a bone stock 89. Completely unmolested, even came with the sunroof cover. The long term plan is to swap all the good stuff from the old to the new. But considering I only drove the other one once in 2 years before striping it all down. I decided to have fun as is with the bone stock setup 1st. That being said, I didn't want to buy new 4 lug rims knowing I had 5 lugs waiting down the pipe. I ordered an ACT 6 puck, a short throw shifter, clutch line and some RE-71Rs for the stock rims. With some good rotors and HP+ I guess I should be set for my 1st autocross. The car is dedicated to track. I guess I could try to fab something similar to the Z32 air deflectors. Also why not DOT 5.1? |
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09-12-2017, 12:56 PM | #21342 | |
Zilvia FREAK!
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I actually haven't checked up on fluids in a while and only remembered that DOT 5 was silicon based and couldn't be mixed. Did a quick search on 5.1 just now. Glad to see DOT 5.1 is glycol based and totally compatible with DOT 3/4. |
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09-12-2017, 02:00 PM | #21343 |
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Hopefully I can get some insight into this but in the south east.
Is 2700$ pretty much the going price for SR swaps from importers these days? Comes with a 30day warranty. |
09-12-2017, 02:12 PM | #21344 |
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honestly man, your best bet anymore is to just build one. you can pick up a long block for $300-$400, trans for $200-$300... take the money you just saved and spend the rest on things like a brand new wiring harness, clutch setup, turbo, bottom end and head refresh etc.
anything past $1800 for a motor set anymore is a bit rough and not worth it. |
09-12-2017, 02:27 PM | #21345 | |
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It basically bolts right into the Tension rods. Obviously not nearly as cheap as other solutions, but if your car is track dedicated then its a solid upgrade for the car. Should run about $300.
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09-12-2017, 05:22 PM | #21346 | |
Leaky Injector
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09-12-2017, 07:33 PM | #21347 | ||
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Quote:
So in short, choose upgraded brake pads based on your tires, ratio of track to street driving, and how long you're out on track. Quote:
There are some fantastic choices in DOT4 brake fluid. ATE Type 200 is probably the best value, and Castrol SRF has the abosulte highest dry and wet boiling points of any DOT4 fluid on the market. There are some choices in between those two from Motul and Stoptech as well. I personally ran Type 200 and it served me well for lapping days. It has high boiling points, a 3 year service life and is very cost-effective: about $20 for a Liter. I was tempted to get SRF, but it's about $70 / Liter and only has a 1 year service life. It's probably overkill for anything short of world class racecar. |
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09-12-2017, 08:18 PM | #21348 |
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I used to use ATE and whatnot, but after a couple instances where I was blowing through fluid trying to get everything bled properly I just went to the valvoline stuff that is locally available at every parts store. The dry boiling point is good enough, and I've never had a problem.
As far as pads, for a decent street pad I do like the Stoptechs (I have them in my autocross BRZ and my miata). If you're going to be doing track stuffs I'm of the mind that you should have a second set of pads + rotors rather than trying one brake pad to do it all. |
09-13-2017, 04:19 AM | #21349 |
Zilvia FREAK!
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DOT 5 can't be mixed. DOT 5.1 however can be. There's DOT 3, 4, 5, & 5.1. 5 is the odd man out that can't be mixed since it's silicon based.
That said, after looking into it further, most quality DOT 3/4 fluids have higher boiling points than the 5.1 standard minimums anyway. So use good fluids. |
09-14-2017, 11:36 AM | #21352 | ||
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Easiest fix is using plumber's tape aka teflon tape. You can also clean the drain plug with brake cleaner too because dirt will fill up the threads.
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09-14-2017, 06:57 PM | #21353 | |
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09-14-2017, 07:13 PM | #21354 | ||
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09-21-2017, 02:58 PM | #21358 |
Zilvia Junkie
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I'm in the middle of my rhd conversion and somehow threw away my dash insulator pad. Checked with Nissan USA, Nissan Japan, Nissan UK and they all have confirmed this part is discontinued.
My question is, has anyone used dynamat, fat pad, or any other insulation that worked well to block out heat? Mind you this is for the firewall. |
09-22-2017, 04:26 AM | #21359 | |
Zilvia Addict
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09-22-2017, 09:04 AM | #21360 |
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I am in the beginning of my red top sr20 swap and I’m wondering about getting an ac condensor for my car. I know it’s cliché but this is gonna be my daily until I find an s14 later down the road. I have checked Nissan USA and the condensor shave been discontinued. I need help sourcing one or will one off another Nissan or would the s14 honestly work. My shell has a recover drier and came with the lines but no condensor and misc parts
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180sx type x kouki, 1jz, 2jz, 300zx, clutch, faq, ka24de, n/a, non-turbo, question, redtop s13 180sx silvia, s14, search, solenoid, starter, z32, zenki |
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