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Old 08-04-2016, 09:16 AM   #20041
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...and also remember you need a tank 75% larger than stock because you will use 75% more fuel to get your horsepower, the biggest issue with alky burners

BUT

Lower boost pressures, more reliability, better longevity, provided the correct seals , etc are used throughout the system, and a good tune is used

Considerations: Run two tunes, with am A/B switch between ECU's or a click select stand alone for gas, and e85
35%... NOT 75%!!!!!!!!

uh, running 2 different types of fuels is as pointless as a dick flavored lollypop. just stick with gasoline or ethanol... theres no reason to go back and forth
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Old 08-04-2016, 01:58 PM   #20042
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Is anybody rocking those coilovers with air cups like the stance air cup suspension? I'm thinking about getting some for me s14 but I don't know if might as well say fuck it and go full on bags. I mainly dd it but shit is always getting scrapped in bumps and entrances to places.
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Old 08-04-2016, 02:00 PM   #20043
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maybe raise your car a little instead of living "that stanced life yo"?
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Old 08-04-2016, 05:08 PM   #20044
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is there an easy way to change out a door lock cylinder on an s14 without having to have super small hands to do so? I messed around with it for an hr or so and could not get the nut on the stud to hold the cylinder in place.
Anyone? msglngth
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Old 08-04-2016, 08:11 PM   #20045
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Originally Posted by dorkidori_s13 View Post
35%... NOT 75%!!!!!!!!

uh, running 2 different types of fuels is as pointless as a dick flavored lollypop. just stick with gasoline or ethanol... theres no reason to go back and forth
Yeah I always heard 35-40% more fuel volume for the same power on E85.

It's a track only car, so if it goes E85, it'll stay that way. Tow pig can burn it so I have a half decent way of preventing it from getting old.
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Old 08-05-2016, 06:22 PM   #20046
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Small Questions Thread (SEARCH FIRST! Use this instead of making NEW threads)

Nvm my setup is bad
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Old 08-06-2016, 06:50 AM   #20047
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Anyone? msglngth
There's usually a plastic plug in the door across from that stud for you to get a socket in there. Haven't taken apart my car in a while, but that's how most Nissans are set up.
Also, pop loose the latch (3 screws on outside) to drop it down to give yourself a little more wiggle room.
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Old 08-06-2016, 03:16 PM   #20048
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Are these the Z32 JDM Fairlady Headlights? If so, what's the price that I could sell them for? I have no knowledge on Z's and I did a small research and I believe these are the Fairlady ones, If someone with the knowledge on the Z32's can please inform me. Thank you in advance.
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Old 08-07-2016, 11:26 PM   #20049
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I got a free s14 t28 turbo. I was going to rebuild it. It wil not hold/attain my power goals. Is there any way i can swap a housing or something to make it a cheap ergonomical solution im not looking for much more thats why selling it to buy a new one would be a waste. If theres a simple cheap non ghetto way to do this id be delighted to find out. Ive seen some t25/t28 hybrid turbo stuff idk.
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Old 08-08-2016, 03:01 PM   #20050
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LoSt180 View Post
There's usually a plastic plug in the door across from that stud for you to get a socket in there. Haven't taken apart my car in a while, but that's how most Nissans are set up.
Also, pop loose the latch (3 screws on outside) to drop it down to give yourself a little more wiggle room.
Thanks, I'll give that a try in a few.
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Old 08-08-2016, 03:19 PM   #20051
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In regards to e85, only reason I'm setting my sr up for flex fuel is because e85 is only available near the track 2.5 hours away. So I was going to pump the E in for track days, and then I can just pump 91 in when I'm back home. Ethanol content sensor and AEM Infinity will take car of everything else automatically.
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Old 08-08-2016, 05:12 PM   #20052
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Quote:
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In regards to e85, only reason I'm setting my sr up for flex fuel is because e85 is only available near the track 2.5 hours away. So I was going to pump the E in for track days, and then I can just pump 91 in when I'm back home. Ethanol content sensor and AEM Infinity will take car of everything else automatically.
unless your stand alone is capable of switching back and forth between two completely different tunes, then no you cant swap back and forth. E85 requires 30-35% more fuel volume compared to standard petrol (you will also need to run full synthetic oil as ethanol in our cars doesnt mix well with traditional oil). Also, E85 can handle gobs more timing than standard petrol can (given E85 is rated around 103 octane). Basically, unless you run the tank damn near empty then refill, your tune is going to get all screwy. Keep in mind too that if youre using a high pressure fuel pump, running your tank below 1/4 full is really bad for the pump itself (running below 1/4 of a tank will cause the pump to burn up due to lack of adequate cooling from the fuel in the tank).
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Old 08-08-2016, 08:07 PM   #20053
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He literally just said he has an AEM Infinity and an ethanol content sensor. The point of that is for the ECU to be able to switch back and forth between maps on it's own based on the amount of ethanol in the fuel.
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Old 08-08-2016, 08:46 PM   #20054
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He literally just said he has an AEM Infinity and an ethanol content sensor. The point of that is for the ECU to be able to switch back and forth between maps on it's own based on the amount of ethanol in the fuel.

This ^

LMAO
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Old 08-08-2016, 10:38 PM   #20055
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You tune on straight 91, then straight e85. And then the ecu blends the two maps based on the ethanol content sensor.


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Old 08-08-2016, 10:38 PM   #20056
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Thread question

Anyone know the thread pitch on a twin cam ka valve cover bolt holes?
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Old 08-09-2016, 09:54 AM   #20057
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Popped my hood this morning and noticed that my radiator brackets have came loose. The bolts are missing, but I luckily still have the brackets. Does anyone know the exact size bolts to use to reattach my radiator brackets on the top?

Thanks!
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Old 08-09-2016, 10:10 AM   #20058
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Popped my hood this morning and noticed that my radiator brackets have came loose. The bolts are missing, but I luckily still have the brackets. Does anyone know the exact size bolts to use to reattach my radiator brackets on the top?

Thanks!
10mm... same bolt thats everywhere in the engine bay.
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Old 08-09-2016, 11:34 AM   #20059
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10mm... same bolt thats everywhere in the engine bay.
thank you!
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Old 08-09-2016, 11:41 AM   #20060
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thank you!

M6x1.00 is the screw size, the head is a 10mm
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Old 08-09-2016, 01:34 PM   #20061
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M6x1.00 is the screw size, the head is a 10mm
thanks for the details!
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Old 08-10-2016, 08:33 AM   #20062
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clutch break in

okay guys not my first time changing a clutch and flywheel, but first time doing it on a non streel legal car. its a spec stage 2 on a sr20. i thought about just taking it out and driving it but the parish i live in has cops everywhere so trying to figure out a way to do it without leaving my yard. any advise to make the break in period easier?
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Old 08-10-2016, 08:52 AM   #20063
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okay guys not my first time changing a clutch and flywheel, but first time doing it on a non streel legal car. its a spec stage 2 on a sr20. i thought about just taking it out and driving it but the parish i live in has cops everywhere so trying to figure out a way to do it without leaving my yard. any advise to make the break in period easier?
Clutch break in will forever be a subject of debate. Do I break clutches in? Not really.

I'd just put it in, make sure it works/engages fine on your street and then get it to the event and blast.

I think of it this way, when we do clutches on our big rigs, the break in procedure is hauling 80,000 lbs down the highway, like nothign ever happened.

Race cars? There isn't break in. It's not like anyone drives them on the street. Break it in like you're gonna drive it. it's gonna work, or not work.
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Old 08-10-2016, 08:57 AM   #20064
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Clutch break in will forever be a subject of debate. Do I break clutches in? Not really.

I'd just put it in, make sure it works/engages fine on your street and then get it to the event and blast.

I think of it this way, when we do clutches on our big rigs, the break in procedure is hauling 80,000 lbs down the highway, like nothign ever happened.

Race cars? There isn't break in. It's not like anyone drives them on the street. Break it in like you're gonna drive it. it's gonna work, or not work.
yeah ive searched and searched and im getting your answer and drive it 500 or so miles. only thing im scarred of happening is i put it in, trailer it to an event and clutch kick the first corner and glaze it over. its a fresh build on a new car so would rather it last a season or 2.
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Old 08-10-2016, 09:21 AM   #20065
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yeah ive searched and searched and im getting your answer and drive it 500 or so miles. only thing im scarred of happening is i put it in, trailer it to an event and clutch kick the first corner and glaze it over. its a fresh build on a new car so would rather it last a season or 2.
I still think you'd be ok, again think about how pros/everyone else does it on non streetable cars...it's not as if you're gonna do 500 miles in a parking lot
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Old 08-10-2016, 09:55 AM   #20066
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what you need to look at is what engine and what clutch, the thing that kills clutches early is overheating, you need to heat cycle it without getting it to hot or yes the material hardens and glazes and it will never grab hard again, getting it to hot intitially like what would happen if you jump on track on a brand new clutch and clutch kick the shit out of it is it could get to hot and the friction surfaces could fuse together, I have seen it happen personally, if you running a stage 4 6 puck rated for 450 hp on a stock 155 hp ka a glazed surface wont matter in the least however if your running a stage 2 on a sr with some bolt ons and you plan on kicking the shit out of it at a track and that's all its ever gonna see you probably need to break it in


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Clutch break in will forever be a subject of debate. Do I break clutches in? Not really.

I'd just put it in, make sure it works/engages fine on your street and then get it to the event and blast.

I think of it this way, when we do clutches on our big rigs, the break in procedure is hauling 80,000 lbs down the highway, like nothign ever happened.

Race cars? There isn't break in. It's not like anyone drives them on the street. Break it in like you're gonna drive it. it's gonna work, or not work.
that is complete misinformation of coarse big rigs don't see clutch break ins you can take any brand new clutch and go do dyno pulls all day every day and the clutch will still be basically new, running power through the clutch has nothing to do with break in periods, putting a brand new clutch in a car and driving 500 miles down the freeway in 5th isn't a break in either, you need to shift it and you need to drive it in town for a week or so to allow it to get hot and cool over and over again

race cars don't have break in periods because a lot of them are made of a different material than street clutches, plus 90% of race cars are seeing regular engine/transmission removals after every race or every few races, they don't care if the clutch glazes over, the heat and the temperature and force that race cars are holding are far different than our 200-400 hp "drift cars" using that comparison is like comparing a smart car to a porche
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Old 08-10-2016, 10:19 AM   #20067
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getting it to hot intitially like what would happen if you jump on track on a brand new clutch and clutch kick the shit out of it is it could get to hot and the friction surfaces could fuse together, I have seen it happen personally

Watched this happened to a friends Exedy Hyper Single. Damn disk fused straight to the flywheel. When we pried it off some of the clutch material was still stuck on the flywheel. It was trashed, no hope for redemption.
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Old 08-10-2016, 10:39 AM   #20068
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Originally Posted by Mister.E View Post
Watched this happened to a friends Exedy Hyper Single. Damn disk fused straight to the flywheel. When we pried it off some of the clutch material was still stuck on the flywheel. It was trashed, no hope for redemption.
damn that is not a cheap clutch either lol I seen it on a act stage 2 which wasn't cheap but it wasn't a grand either lol
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Old 08-10-2016, 11:13 AM   #20069
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that is complete misinformation of coarse big rigs don't see clutch break ins
Why would they not, yet a car does? It's not as if the friction material or surface of the flywheel are exotic, nor is it's function any different.

And again, how do we break it in? Ya pull out loaded and steam up the highway at full boost. There's no 'take it easy for 500 miles' nonsense. If you think clutch kicking around a corner puts any more shock on a driveline/clutch than a loaded truck going up hill shifting, you're confused.



What's the break in procedure when you go out and buy a new


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race cars don't have break in periods because a lot of them are made of a different material than street clutches, plus 90% of race cars are seeing regular engine/transmission removals after every race or every few races, they don't care if the clutch glazes over, the heat and the temperature and force that race cars are holding are far different than our 200-400 hp "drift cars" using that comparison is like comparing a smart car to a porche
Obviously Hendrick's is throwing a new clutch in the NASCAR every race, but in the same regard do you think PCA club racers are changing the clutch every race? No. Every season? No... (ok since you're a technical guy, lets not include cup cars here, but even they can be included to a degree)

Do you think Honda Challenge cars change the clutches? Only when they break one. Spec Miata? Stock style, they never fail.

My examples can continue. Do you know how they get broken in? Friday morning practice LOL as they warm up the brakes/tires.

Even in my endurance race car, we've got a Sachs OE replacement type clutch in it. It's got over 140 RACE hours on the clutch. I broke it in at NJMP during Lemon's practice a few years back. Just had the trans off to check it out - would you believe the clutch looked as new as ever.

I can give examples the day is long on people without issues who didn't break in shit, and immediately drove their car. What I can't give many examples of are guys ruining clutches when new...well...ever...
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Old 08-10-2016, 11:29 AM   #20070
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Clutch break in will forever be a subject of debate. Do I break clutches in? Not really.

I'd just put it in, make sure it works/engages fine on your street and then get it to the event and blast.

I think of it this way, when we do clutches on our big rigs, the break in procedure is hauling 80,000 lbs down the highway, like nothign ever happened.

Race cars? There isn't break in. It's not like anyone drives them on the street. Break it in like you're gonna drive it. it's gonna work, or not work.
For a track car, I'd give it the same treatment as bedding in a new set of brakes. Easy warm up laps, then let vehicle cool. Want to get a heat cycle or two on it before going HAM. Test & Tune timeslots are perfect for this if you can't get any trial laps in for whatever reason.
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