Small Questions Thread (SEARCH FIRST! Use this instead of making NEW threads)

[simmode1]

The old Grip Gambler Z31... WTF intake manifold is this?!

[DJTTon]

Originally Posted by e1_griego

Sounds like they need to be bled.

Bled all four sides in the proper order. Pedal still travels further, when the car is on. When the car is off the brakes are tight as fuxk.

Im stumped here

Edit: So that is caused by the brake booster, I totally forgot about it. Sadly, I dont know much about how it affects the system. All I know now is that all four calipers are properly bled but the feeling of having the pedal go all the way down before any braking enables is still there.

[codyace]

Originally Posted by DJTTon

Bled all four sides in the proper order. Pedal still travels further, when the car is on. When the car is off the brakes are tight as fuxk.

Im stumped here

Edit: So that is caused by the brake booster, I totally forgot about it. Sadly, I dont know much about how it affects the system. All I know now is that all four calipers are properly bled but the feeling of having the pedal go all the way down before any braking enables is still there.

Disconnect booster line, and plug it. How does the brake change?

The pedal will always be harder without the booster working, but even if it is hooked up, it will be firm, albiet furhter down than when its' off.

Another thing you can check is a faulty master cylinder, and even a bad booster...however a bad booster usually results in a hard pedal, not a soft one.

Another thing to try, is take master off, and behind it there is a rod. Spin it a 1/4 turn longer and re assemble, and see how pedal is. Just make sure it's not dragging anywhere. Small adjustments though, as it doesn't tak emuch to drag the system down.

[codyace]

Originally Posted by [240sx]

Are these O.E bushing or Polys?
Parked the car, and put it up on jack stands in preperation for the subframe drop tomorrow. Noticed these don't look like old oem bushing I've seen on google.

Shot ball joints will be loud as hell in a car. Check all other arm bushings too.

Originally Posted by LoSt180

That's perfectly normal. I've noticed that as well, and it's not just the SR, my VQ and Armada does the same thing. It won't "lock" on 15* timing until you put the ECU into timing mode.

Another trick if you can't secure timing mode, is to have a light on the car, and rev it up with your hand/e throttle body. Rev it up to 4k or so, and let off. As it decels, you'll watch it bounce around, and right towards the end when the injectors cut out, you'll see the timing 'lock' on whatever the CAS is set too. It's only for a second or so, but enough time to dial it in after a rev or 3.

[DJTTon]

@codyace

I can take off bmc without having to bleed all fours after?

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[kingkilburn]

This just flopped out from the glovebox area. What is it and where should I be looking to plug it back in?


http://i.imgur.com/dyE0arb.jpg

[theStig880]

So three years ago when I first did my Sr swap, I replaced the clutch with an Exedy Stage 2. The clutch on the engine was very unusual and to my inexperienced mind a crappy, weird clutch with its own flywheel. I have now learned that it appears to be an ATS Single Carbon clutch that retails for $1700. Now this thing has been put through the ringer and I was wondering if anyone has rebuilt or refinished this clutch and could point me in the right direction or give guidance on where to look. Pics below of said clutch to show the current condition:

[Mister.E]

Is it possible for the steering rack to be relocated too far forward? My buddy that did the fab work on my crossmember moved the steering rack location so far forward that the shaft from the steering column barely goes into the little sleeve. It certainly will not go in far enough for the bolt to be pushed through but it's close.

First question, is the rack moves too far forward? Can this actually hurt my ackerman/suspension geometry?

Second question, if the rack is good to go, is it safe to cut and weld like a 1/2" - 3/4" extension into the steering shaft. My main worries about this option is that it might possibly snap or that after the welding the shaft would not be perfectly straight as it came from the factory.

This is the part that would need to be extended:



Thanks in advance for any advice!

[xilovelsdx]

Does anyone know if any strut tower bar will work with an S13 with an s14 Sr20 since the valve cover bumps up?

[e1_griego]

^They usually don't work.

I'm running a CA18 style bar with my s13.4 valve cover to clear the hump.

[phunc]

Does this look normal? S14 kouki sr20det, small gap between the upper oil pan and the block. All the oil pan bolts are torqued to spec. Was leaking from the rear main housing near the left bolt, figured I just sucked at putting gasket on but this little gap has me curious. Thanks for any info uploadfromtaptalk1466787685186.jpg

[phunc]

Originally Posted by phunc

Does this look normal? S14 kouki sr20det, small gap between the upper oil pan and the block. All the oil pan bolts are torqued to spec. Was leaking from the rear main housing near the left bolt, figured I just sucked at putting gasket on but this little gap has me curious. Thanks for any info Attachment 93763

Never mind, not normal, my arp main studs weren't in far enough.

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[juhd]

you can interchange a j30 and s14 diff internals right?

[dorkidori_s13]

Originally Posted by juhd

you can interchange a j30 and s14 diff internals right?

yes... R200 rear end is an R200 rear end is an R200 rear end. only difference is output shaft lengths.

[DJTTon]

Can someone who has made a custom personal exhaust for their s14 please PM me? I want to ask some questions to get to know what Im working with.

Much luv <3

[Alan_405]

I am in search of This part highlighted in Yellow. Its the Blow-By Control Valve on a S14 SR20. I tried searching all over and only thing I could find was this diagram....The only one that I can decipher is the 11810 and it ends up being a Nissan Genuine OEM PCV Valve S14 S15 SR20DET. Is this the same damn part?

I have a spare Valve Cover and wanted to get the proper pieces and keep my old ones as well. Thank you.

[ellopuppet]

Originally Posted by Alan_405

I am in search of This part highlighted in Yellow. Its the Blow-By Control Valve on a S14 SR20. I tried searching all over and only thing I could find was this diagram....The only one that I can decipher is the 11810 and it ends up being a Nissan Genuine OEM PCV Valve S14 S15 SR20DET. Is this the same damn part?

I have a spare Valve Cover and wanted to get the proper pieces and keep my old ones as well. Thank you.

Have you tried contacting nissparts.cc? They can usually get their hands on some OEM goodies. or maybe rawbrokage

[xilovelsdx]

That is a PCV valve

[jared420sx]

Can i use z33 axles on a q45 diff for the rear?

[dablazer916]

Hi everyone, i recently purchased a 1994 vert to restore. My problem is that i cannot find replacements for the white plastic guide pieces for the rear quarter windows. Nissan does not make them anymore and i cannot fabricate something with existing parts because the previous owner left me with nothing to work with.

For the left piece, i was planning on following the guide which used a ford window roller and replace it. I am stumped on what to do about the other two guides.

Onto my question: If i left the other guides like that and kept the quarter window permanently rolled up, would my convertible top still function correctly and go up and down without getting caught somehow on the quarter window? I cant really test this because the windows were taken out before i purchased the car. Also, if you have suggestions on replacements for the other two pieces, It would be much appreciated.

[5280VertDET]

Originally Posted by dablazer916

Hi everyone, i recently purchased a 1994 vert to restore. My problem is that i cannot find replacements for the white plastic guide pieces for the rear quarter windows. Nissan does not make them anymore and i cannot fabricate something with existing parts because the previous owner left me with nothing to work with.
For the left piece, i was planning on following the guide which used a ford window roller and replace it. I am stumped on what to do about the other two guides.

Onto my question: If i left the other guides like that and kept the quarter window permanently rolled up, would my convertible top still function correctly and go up and down without getting caught somehow on the quarter window? I cant really test this because the windows were taken out before i purchased the car. Also, if you have suggestions on replacements for the other two pieces, It would be much appreciated.

LINK

Not for sale, but he makes them, trying contacting him.

[dablazer916]

Originally Posted by 5280VertDET

LINK

Not for sale, but he makes them, trying contacting him.

Wow thank you so much for this!

[white95zenki]

so I am going to order some fortune auto coils for my s14. I was just wondering what spring rates should i run? the car is my daily

[derass]

If there's an option softer than 8/6 get those.

[Mister.E]

Can the kouki heater core be dropped into the 95 zenki without rewiring anything? I'm trying to get rid of that damn valve inside of the zenki engine bay without losing it's functionality.

[mau5trap]

Alright guys, I'm having some difficulty getting this ball joint off my front control arm with this ball joint remover I rented from o'reilly's. The fitting for the bottom end of the ball joint doesn't really fit correct. You guys have any other recommendations or tricks to getting this sucker off without the ball joint remover?

[mau5trap]

Originally Posted by white95zenki

so I am going to order some fortune auto coils for my s14. I was just wondering what spring rates should i run? the car is my daily

I would go 8/6 or 9/7

[SoundEfx]

I'm trying to flush my heater core in hopes that the rust in the system isn't too bad in there.

In any case, can someone tell me which hose flows to the heater core inlet and which one out of the core?

My plan is to attach a low pressure stream of 'rust dissolver' to the out port in hopes of it pushes all the debris out the input where I'm hoping most of it accumulated.

Thanks.

[beems240sx]

So I depinned the brown wire to make the sleepy time. However I can't get the headlights to go down at the same speed... It's driving me nuts. Both motors go up the same and they seem fine, never had any problems with them. Thoughts?

[DJTTon]

Would anyone happen to have any suggestions on how to seal this? I'm trying to retain the oem look. Bondo and sanding is not an option

uploadfromtaptalk1467558564879.jpg

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