Small Questions Thread (SEARCH FIRST! Use this instead of making NEW threads)

[Psychomoongoose]

Originally Posted by Psychomoongoose

Had a strange issue with the rear end. The driver side axle stub popped out!!! When I was driving!!! It still had the snap ring thingie on it and everything. Upon removing the axle I was not aware that popping off the dust cover was really easy and the whole thing will just come apart. Now I know. I bought a new CV shaft. They're early J30 units, 5 star and Rzeppa style.

Anyhow, I tapped the axle stub back in and re-installed the "new" CV shaft and the car drives fine.

Why would this happen? My car is not TOO LOW, its not like im tucking 18s or anything. Almost, but not.

Do you guys have any experience with this happening? Hopefully this is a one time, freak occurence.

BUMp does anyone have any input?

Must I install an S14 subframe? S13 hatch is car in question

[kent624]

Originally Posted by DJTTon

@zombiewolf513

Im fairly certain the sensor is fine bc i originally had an s13 speed sensor in there (came w transmission during prev owners 5 man swap) and the same thing happened regarding the fluttering, but it seemed like the speedometer worked less often than it does with the s14 sensor. So I agree that I'm certain there could be an issue with the transmission of the input/output signal. I guess Im just not certain on how to look into it and where to start troubleshooting the harness

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Did you ever find out which pins in the ECU the speedo is connected to? My Speedo is sticking at 40mph and works correctly intermittently.

[[240sx]]

Are these O.E bushing or Polys?
Parked the car, and put it up on jack stands in preperation for the subframe drop tomorrow. Noticed these don't look like old oem bushing I've seen on google.

[DJTTon]

Originally Posted by kent624

Did you ever find out which pins in the ECU the speedo is connected to? My Speedo is sticking at 40mph and works correctly intermittently.

Yeah, after careful consideration of the fsm. However I couldnt completely dislodge my ecu harness bc there was an external power wire going to and splicing into a wire. I couldn't exactly solve the issue either bc when I was looking at the harness there wasn't a metal contact for where the speedometer wire is supposed to be. So I just left it at that. Properly secured everything and speedo worked for a few weeks until literally today when it read 0 on my morning commute.

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[DJTTon]

If you view the foldout page of the fsm it is pin 26.

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[DJTTon]

Originally Posted by DJTTon

If you view the foldout page of the fsm it is pin 26.

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I found pg 233-236 of EC useful and pg 2 of the foldout.

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[NiSilS14]

Does anyone what these two connectors go to? They're next to the audio wiring. Fsm says they're not used. I want to use them for gauges.

[DJTTon]

I think that black one is for that 12V source where you can put like a cig lighter and that second one has something to do with automatic transmission. Im assuming your car is manual at this point (mine has the same "extras") and theyre not plugged into anything. I would view the FSM section regarding anything A/T to really get the idea of what it connects to.

[LoSt180]

Originally Posted by NiSilS14

Does anyone what these two connectors go to? They're next to the audio wiring. Fsm says they're not used. I want to use them for gauges.

Those were for the optional CD player. Should have a good switched 12V power source and illumination.

[DJTTon]

I guess Im mistaken? I hope someone can clarify

[lunchmeat]

I think that's for the cig lighter and illumination. It's m78(illumination) and m47(lighter) page el-204 and 205 in the fsm.
The CD player connections should be bundled together with the radio wiring

[derass]

Originally Posted by [240sx]

Are these O.E bushing or Polys?
Parked the car, and put it up on jack stands in preperation for the subframe drop tomorrow. Noticed these don't look like old oem bushing I've seen on google.

Those look exactly like Energy Suspension bushings. They're available in both red and black. Here's the best pic I could find:

[LoSt180]

Originally Posted by DJTTon

I guess Im mistaken? I hope someone can clarify

I did just clarify. Those are cd changer plugs, I used the wires for my Kouki triple din gauges. The cig lighter and light are 2-pin connector. And the auto trans stuff is down by the shifter, not poking out under the dash.

I even drew up the pin out info a few years ago.

Originally Posted by lunchmeat

I think that's for the cig lighter and illumination. It's m78(illumination) and m47(lighter) page el-204 and 205 in the fsm.
The CD player connections should be bundled together with the radio wiring

They're M45 and M46 connectors specifically. Not bundled with radio, more like in the same area.

[LoSt180]

Originally Posted by lunchmeat

I think that's for the cig lighter and illumination. It's m78(illumination) and m47(lighter) page el-204 and 205 in the fsm.
The CD player connections should be bundled together with the radio wiring

They're M45 and M46 connectors specifically. Not bundled with radio, more like in the same area.

[lunchmeat]

I stand corrected. Out of curiosity, I checked my car(no CD, auto) and sure enough, those connectors are just dangling there.
Should have known better, since my last 97 had the CD changer. But that was 7 years ago.

[[240sx]]

Originally Posted by derass

Those look exactly like Energy Suspension bushings. They're available in both red and black.

Thank brotha!!... too bad I had already dropped the suframe.:banghead: lol car does infact have ES sbfm. bushings already installed, so now I'm stumped as to why the back end clunks and feels wayward hitting bumps during cornering.

[LoSt180]

Originally Posted by [240sx]

Thank brotha!!... too bad I had already dropped the suframe.:banghead: lol car does infact have ES sbfm. bushings already installed, so now I'm stumped as to why the back end clunks and feels wayward hitting bumps during cornering.

Maybe they've gone bad also? Check other bushings in that area, rear lower control arm ball joint could be bad, also could be bad diff bushings as well.

[DJTTon]

Thanks for the clarification.

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[[240sx]]

Originally Posted by LoSt180

Maybe they've gone bad also? Check other bushings in that area, rear lower control arm ball joint could be bad, also could be bad diff bushings as well.

Hmm, I wouldn't think so, they look just as good as the spare subframe I have. Diff bushings I never got a answer to how to inspect for play so I purchased es polys for them, but they seem in good shape and firm. Ball joints are shot but I do have new OEM arms purchased for this overhual... hopefully that was it?
Did notice one of the "L" bracket captured nut(in the chassis) is broken free and won't tighten.
Oh, and appearently I have a bad wheel bearing. F**k.

[jared420sx]

Im turboing my ka at the moment. but still havent figured out what to do ab exhaust system.

[jared420sx]

Im turboing my ka at the moment. but still havent figured out what to do ab exhaust system. I was told to go 3in straight pipe. How loud would that be? I dont want attract alot of unwanted attention and get pulled over all the time but i also dont wana sound ricey or pay $800+ for a decent exhaust.

Edit* sorry for double post didnt realize.

[kashira kureijii]

Originally Posted by jared420sx

Im turboing my ka at the moment. but still havent figured out what to do ab exhaust system. I was told to go 3in straight pipe. How loud would that be? I dont want attract alot of unwanted attention and get pulled over all the time but i also dont wana sound ricey or pay $800+ for a decent exhaust.

Edit* sorry for double post didnt realize.

The isis one with the muffler is very quiet, its the dual tip one, not the gt one. I have it on my rb25 and it is very quiet
The welds look pretty good too
I would say go hks, but pretty sure the hi powers are pretty loud
The isis one, i Think its called msbe or something, just look on enjuku


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[jared420sx]

^thanks for the info if anyone else could add their expierences id appreciate it. More so looking to go custom but any info is great.

[dorkidori_s13]

Originally Posted by jared420sx

^thanks for the info if anyone else could add their expierences id appreciate it. More so looking to go custom but any info is great.

HKS sports exhaust... $360 and the most low key looking catback on the market PERIOD!!! its 3", very quiet and looks OEM. ive been running mine for over 2 years now, couldnt be happier.

http://www.frsport.com/Sport-Exhaust...FYqPfgodDJMFkQ


pic of my car from when i first installed it...

[kashira kureijii]

^ that sounds like the way to go man! Wish i wouldve known about it


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[black'N'proud]

While checking the timing on my sr20det with Ecu Talk I've noticed that the timing is very sporadic, ranging from 15*, 5*, 10*,12* and everything in between at idle. I'm just wondering if the timing should be pretty consistent, maybe jumping up or down a degree, or is what I'm seeing considered normal? The car starts and idles fine (around 900- 1000 rpm's) even on a cold start and will adjusting the timing at the cas help the issue? The ecu is not showing any fault codes. Thanks for the advice in advance.

[LoSt180]

Originally Posted by black'N'proud

While checking the timing on my sr20det with Ecu Talk I've noticed that the timing is very sporadic, ranging from 15*, 5*, 10*,12* and everything in between at idle. I'm just wondering if the timing should be pretty consistent, maybe jumping up or down a degree, or is what I'm seeing considered normal? The car starts and idles fine (around 900- 1000 rpm's) even on a cold start and will adjusting the timing at the cas help the issue? The ecu is not showing any fault codes. Thanks for the advice in advance.

That's perfectly normal. I've noticed that as well, and it's not just the SR, my VQ and Armada does the same thing. It won't "lock" on 15* timing until you put the ECU into timing mode.

[MedHat240sx]

Anybody know what skid plate fits a C33 Laurel? I need one for mine but am unsure if a s13 one will fit as it uses a rb20 crossmember and a s13 lower rad support and r32 skyline upper rad support

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[DJTTon]

Does anyone know what could cause sudden increase of brake travel to brake with the same force?

Went out for a drive today, was coming back and was going down a hill noticed that at the usual point where the brakes start braking, the car wasnt stopping much so I had to press the pedal harder. Tried it again later in the drive on a flatter road and the issue still persisted.

So, suddenly, I have to push more of the brake pedal to stop the same amount. Im starting to think there is air in the system. Hopefully someone can chime in.

*I opened the bmc and saw an air bubble on top; idk if that means anything.

[e1_griego]

Sounds like they need to be bled.