Small Questions Thread (SEARCH FIRST! Use this instead of making NEW threads)

[ProjectSQ]

Hey all!!!! So I recently got my hands on a Tomei SR M7960 for 500 only catch is it has some wobble to it and needs a rebuild. All I can find from Tomei is a gasket and line set and various other parts but no bearing kits. I would like to avoid buying a chra SO HERE IT IS:

Can I rebuild a Tomei turbo using a kit like this- http://turbolabofamerica.com/mhi-14b...o-rebuild-kit/

Anyone with experience or who knows someone with experience, preferably no "hear-say"

Thank you 😁

[dorkidori_s13]

Originally Posted by ProjectSQ

Hey all!!!! So I recently got my hands on a Tomei SR M7960 for 500 only catch is it has some wobble to it and needs a rebuild. All I can find from Tomei is a gasket and line set and various other parts but no bearing kits. I would like to avoid buying a chra SO HERE IT IS:

Can I rebuild a Tomei turbo using a kit like this- http://turbolabofamerica.com/mhi-14b...o-rebuild-kit/

Anyone with experience or who knows someone with experience, preferably no "hear-say"

Thank you 😁

thats a big no go champ. you purchased a ball bearing turbo... that kit is for a standard journal bearing turbo. you will have to purchase an entirely new center section which will run more than what you paid for the tomei turbo.

[juhd]

for s13 guys running wider wheels up front, what do you guys do for more clearance without tubbing? i rub on the stock tubs when taking turns to aggressively and on full lock.

[ProjectSQ]

Originally Posted by jaaanrel

for s13 guys running wider wheels up front, what do you guys do for more clearance without tubbing? i rub on the stock tubs when taking turns to aggressively and on full lock.

I'm running 15x10 -38 up front with 205/50R15's and all I had to do was beat the split flange flat

[ProjectSQ]

Originally Posted by dorkidori_s13

thats a big no go champ. you purchased a ball bearing turbo... that kit is for a standard journal bearing turbo. you will have to purchase an entirely new center section which will run more than what you paid for the tomei turbo.

No way really?! I thought these were almost exactly 20g's

[ProjectSQ]

Originally Posted by dorkidori_s13

thats a big no go champ. you purchased a ball bearing turbo... that kit is for a standard journal bearing turbo. you will have to purchase an entirely new center section which will run more than what you paid for the tomei turbo.

Sorry to double quote you but I searched and searched and they are certainly journal bearing turbos

[dorkidori_s13]

Originally Posted by ProjectSQ

Sorry to double quote you but I searched and searched and they are certainly journal bearing turbos

well ill be buggered. i guess it is a journal bearing turbo... sorry about that. MOST turbo upgrades from bigger Japanese names tend to be ball bearing and not journal bearing. instead of guessing on an ebay kit... call Tomei directly and ask them about a rebuild or rebuild kit.

[S14kouki805]

Originally Posted by dbeiler

Resistor for the automatic transmission.

Cool, I'm removing it!

[Corbic]

Originally Posted by dontxploitme

If you're talking about the sun/moon roof. That's oem. Idk what else you could be talking about...

Yes the moon roof

[sil80d]

Is there a difference in the valve cover bolts on the different year s14 ka's. I know that there is a difference between s13 and s14.

[mau5trap]

anyone know what model yashio factory coilovers these are?

[dorkidori_s13]

Originally Posted by mau5trap

anyone know what model yashio factory coilovers these are?

really old ones... MOST japanese manufacturers incorporated adjustable lower mounts in the mid 2000s, those were most likely made late 90s/early 2000s.

[Mohebmo]

[mau5trap]

Originally Posted by dorkidori_s13

really old ones... MOST japanese manufacturers incorporated adjustable lower mounts in the mid 2000s, those were most likely made late 90s/early 2000s.

I figured the same thing. thanks!
I might just save up for some newer ones.

[ashero2]

anyone know how to get the gas door open on a s13 without prying it open with a screwdriver? I push the tab down to open it but no luck. probably bad or no cable. if not, can I open it from the trunk or anything?

[kingJurzy]

Originally Posted by ashero2

anyone know how to get the gas door open on a s13 without prying it open with a screwdriver? I push the tab down to open it but no luck. probably bad or no cable. if not, can I open it from the trunk or anything?

Follow the trunk/gas door cable to the rear and there should be a lever you can maually move that will pop the gas door.

[5280VertDET]

Originally Posted by kingJurzy

Follow the trunk/gas door cable to the rear and there should be a lever you can maually move that will pop the gas door.

It has a spring, pull it towards the spare tire.

[dorkidori_s13]

Originally Posted by ashero2

anyone know how to get the gas door open on a s13 without prying it open with a screwdriver? I push the tab down to open it but no luck. probably bad or no cable. if not, can I open it from the trunk or anything?

that means your cable bracket snapped at the lever next to the seat. you will need to take your seat out, pull the carpet up and rebuild the plastic bracket that gives the cable tension. it takes about 20-30 minutes with some super glue and patience. ive had to do this on every s13 ive ever owned thru the last 14 years. make sure to be careful pulling all the plastic bits off.. KEEP THEM!! put them back together with a light coat of superglue, then once dry, start layering coats of super glue over the original tension bracket that you just rebuilt. takes about 6-7 thicker coats when completed, but it will never break again after that.

[solo_ryder]

Vacuum line question... S13SR

I have the wiring specialties kit, so no boost solenoid or EAI controller or charcoal can. First I have the wastegate hooked up right off my cold pipe (smic) is this ok?

http://i.imgur.com/zPygjSCl.jpg

Second, I have two extra lines on the throttle body I looped together, are there any potential issues with this? Car seems to idle abit higher like this:

http://i.imgur.com/jT0KO6Ml.jpg

I ran the BOV and boost gauge off a vacuum block on the brake booster.

[blksylv]

The upper right nipple goes to the bov. The bottom nipple can be capped off or used for a wastegate source since it only sees boost if you didn't have one on your cold pipe.

[solo_ryder]

Originally Posted by blksylv

The upper right nipple goes to the bov. The bottom nipple can be capped off or used for a wastegate source since it only sees boost if you didn't have one on your cold pipe.

So I could leave it as is then. I have my bov on my vacuum manifold

[blksylv]

i would probably just cap them off instead of looping them.

[solo_ryder]

Originally Posted by blksylv

i would probably just cap them off instead of looping them.

Ok I will do that and see what happens.

I like how simple the vacuum setup is without having the boost solenoid and EAI thing

[Kuma]

Originally Posted by Kuma

does anyone make rear overs/flares larger than 50mm for s14?

bump. anyone?

[killer240]

How do you figure out which bmc size to run?
I'm running ctsv front 4 pot calipers and Z32 rears. I read either use 1" or 11/16".

[solo_ryder]

Originally Posted by killer240

How do you figure out which bmc size to run?
I'm running ctsv front 4 pot calipers and Z32 rears. I read either use 1" or 11/16".

From what I have read its based on the number of pistons and volume of fluid to be moved. Those CTSV brakes are pretty big I would consider 1", but pedal may be stiff with a larger BMC

[e1_griego]

I'd say 17/16.

Also, everyone should read this (or have read this):

http://www.freshalloy.com/showthread...kes-(VERY-LONG)

[Lompang]

Do you need to use copper gaskets for your turbo lines if using JGS precisions an fittings? I've heard people use nothing and just tighten it up since they are an compression fittings but I've also heard people use liquid sealant. For the turbo to line I just used thread tape should I be fine?

[dorkidori_s13]

Teflon tape is fine for your AN lines. Personally I just tighten mine down. When everything is cranked down properly, you should have zero issues. Most of the time the fitting will go bad before it comes loose.

[teh smithers]

My steering isn't returning to center. Got an alignment, front toe and caster set to stock specs. Still won't return to center. I can literally take a corner with my hands off the wheel. Scary shit. What could cause this issue? Binding coils? (I hope not, I have new-ish FA 500's.) Clock spring? Evil curses?