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Old 05-21-2015, 08:16 AM   #18301
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I know its a really stupid idea ha! Im just doing a swap and was wondering if id be able to drive it the few blocks to work while my intercooler ships over! Illl definitely just walk a bit longer. But I was curious what would happen.

Small question- I have an rb20 harness and my s14's sr20 harness. Anybody know a good wiring guide? Hard to find an rb20 to s14 one.

Id suppose an s14 240sx (usdm) would have a differebt harness than the jdm one due to the engine difference?
Also id assume the harness isnt the same as an s13's..?

Will I be able to keep my abs?

Just walk a bit longer

I don't understand why you would switch from an sr20 to an rb20 if you have a kick ass jdm s14 but whatever, at least you aren't v8 swapping it.


As for the harness either look up a wiring guide ( im sure there been one done, or you can look at an s13 one if all else fails) or just buy a pre-made harness like wiring specialties etc.
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Old 05-21-2015, 11:45 AM   #18302
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Originally Posted by kashira kureijii View Post
Just walk a bit longer

I don't understand why you would switch from an sr20 to an rb20 if you have a kick ass jdm s14 but whatever, at least you aren't v8 swapping it.


As for the harness either look up a wiring guide ( im sure there been one done, or you can look at an s13 one if all else fails) or just buy a pre-made harness like wiring specialties etc.
An S13 should be good? And for the rb- it was unexpected. My sr died and someone offered to sell me a realitively cheap Rb20 tuned at 550whp so I figured it would be a fun idea! Haha thanks for the help! I looked at buying a harness but if I can save 750$ I definitely will haha!
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Old 05-21-2015, 12:25 PM   #18303
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An S13 should be good? And for the rb- it was unexpected. My sr died and someone offered to sell me a realitively cheap Rb20 tuned at 550whp so I figured it would be a fun idea! Haha thanks for the help! I looked at buying a harness but if I can save 750$ I definitely will haha!
I don't understand how a 550hp rb would be cheaper than just rebuilding the sr, in the long run if your car was an sr, that would be the cheapest, easiest, and most reliable route, especially since yours came with it.

But yes the info is likely out there, just look it up. Get a wiring diagram etc.
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Old 05-21-2015, 12:43 PM   #18304
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I don't understand how a 550hp rb would be cheaper than just rebuilding the sr, in the long run if your car was an sr, that would be the cheapest, easiest, and most reliable route, especially since yours came with it.

But yes the info is likely out there, just look it up. Get a wiring diagram etc.
To help justify my decision it came with an Sr20de.. Locally I found a stock sr20det for only 600$ less than this rb and I kinda wanted to do a swap for the learning experience.
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Old 05-21-2015, 05:45 PM   #18305
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To help justify my decision it came with an Sr20de.. Locally I found a stock sr20det for only 600$ less than this rb and I kinda wanted to do a swap for the learning experience.
I see, well good luck, the info is out there ( or just buy the harness, probably is easiest in the long run)
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Old 05-21-2015, 06:23 PM   #18306
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nevermind....

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Old 05-22-2015, 01:52 PM   #18307
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Reusing arp flywheel bolts? I need to get my flywheel resurfaced. The bolts in there are arp flywheel bolts, can I reuse them. This would be the second using technically.
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Old 05-22-2015, 03:31 PM   #18308
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I've reused my OEM flywheel bolts I bought back in 2011.
No issues here.
Make sure you put locktite/thread locker.
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Old 05-22-2015, 03:42 PM   #18309
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Reusing arp flywheel bolts? I need to get my flywheel resurfaced. The bolts in there are arp flywheel bolts, can I reuse them. This would be the second using technically.
Ive reused my oem ones several times now. Just make sure you seal them well! Ive put about 30,000kms use on them since swapping to a lighter flywheel and had no issues.
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Old 05-23-2015, 07:30 AM   #18310
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So im pretty new to owning a turbo car and a car in general. Since getting my 91 with a ka-t ive learned so much and done so much work.

One thing I want to do soon as possible is get ride of this ebay turbo that sounds like f1 plane. If I upgrade from the ebay to a t25/t28 would I need to get a new tune on the car? By new tune I mean really necessary. Im only running around 6psi off my waste gate so not running too much boost. I might bring it up to 10 sometimes during the summer.

Another thing is the turbo manifold on my ka has a tube for a wastegate but im looking to get a turbo from twisted motion since they look fairly respectable and affordable till I go and do my engine rebuild, buy a garret gt35, get a megasquirt ecu and not use an RS flash tune.

Here how the turbo spools, I think it sounds so obnoxious. Im running open downpipe atm but in a couple weeks im going in for a full custom exhaust by a good local shop
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3ym7x9_4pWk
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Old 05-23-2015, 01:52 PM   #18311
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im looking to get a turbo from twisted motion since they look fairly respectable and affordable...
theyre also ebay garbage.

do yourself a favor, unless it says HKS, Turbonetics, Mitsubishi, Garrett, Tomei or Borg Warner on the turbo, stay away from it!

just buy an OEM S15 ball bearing turbo, its more than what you need for the car (especially if youre only running 8-10psi).
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Old 05-23-2015, 04:10 PM   #18312
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theyre also ebay garbage.

do yourself a favor, unless it says HKS, Turbonetics, Mitsubishi, Garrett, Tomei or Borg Warner on the turbo, stay away from it!

just buy an OEM S15 ball bearing turbo, its more than what you need for the car (especially if youre only running 8-10psi).
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Old 05-23-2015, 06:47 PM   #18313
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Old 05-23-2015, 08:36 PM   #18314
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theyre also ebay garbage.

do yourself a favor, unless it says HKS, Turbonetics, Mitsubishi, Garrett, Tomei or Borg Warner on the turbo, stay away from it!

just buy an OEM S15 ball bearing turbo, its more than what you need for the car (especially if youre only running 8-10psi).
I was kinda expecting them to be tbh but I really want to replace the one on the car soon as possible since it spools pretty late around 4500-5000rpm when I actually build boost and it sounds super obnoxious which I just think is having no filter and open downpipe lmao. I know I can get a fairly decent garret for 800ish but I need something in the 300-400 range to get going for 7 months or so till I have all the funds to do full engine rebuild and look to get a gt35. Im only going to run 6psi off the wastegate for now and during the summer get my GFB boost controller and bring it up to around 9-10 for weekends.

I also thought turbonetics was also chinese ebay quality.
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Old 05-24-2015, 02:55 AM   #18315
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I was kinda expecting them to be tbh but I really want to replace the one on the car soon as possible since it spools pretty late around 4500-5000rpm when I actually build boost and it sounds super obnoxious which I just think is having no filter and open downpipe lmao. I know I can get a fairly decent garret for 800ish but I need something in the 300-400 range to get going for 7 months or so till I have all the funds to do full engine rebuild and look to get a gt35. Im only going to run 6psi off the wastegate for now and during the summer get my GFB boost controller and bring it up to around 9-10 for weekends.

I also thought turbonetics was also chinese ebay quality.
Ive never used a turbonetic personally, but one of my buddies has a big turbonetic setup in his r chassis, it runs solid and he likes it.

Pesonally if I were you I would forsure look for a T25/28, Theyre reliable and ideal for your setup. I just sold my used t28bb for 350$ and thats the common price range in my area for them in good condition. You could also go for an rb20/25 turbo, their similar and around the same price if youre willing to install one. I dont think you mentioned your current flanges or anything but yeah! Good luck and nice car.
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Old 05-25-2015, 06:40 AM   #18316
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I'm curious if anyone has run any type of universal turn signal switch. If so, what did you use and how do you like it? I tore my steering column down to the bare column and got rid of everything but now I'm having a hard time finding a signal switch.
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Old 05-26-2015, 08:22 PM   #18317
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I noticed that the 15 amp audio fuse in the engine bay had fallen out today. I have other accessories spliced into the power wire to my CD player that work but my CD player won't come on. I tried installing the 15 amp fuse but it seems like there is a missing "metal clip" that the fuse makes contact with. My question is how do you replace that metal piece? Thanks in advance.
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Old 05-27-2015, 08:25 PM   #18318
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^^To answer my own question, there was a ground wire from the CD player that needed to be grounded by itself. Hopefully this helps someone else.
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Old 05-27-2015, 09:01 PM   #18319
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Quote:
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Ive never used a turbonetic personally, but one of my buddies has a big turbonetic setup in his r chassis, it runs solid and he likes it.

Pesonally if I were you I would forsure look for a T25/28, Theyre reliable and ideal for your setup. I just sold my used t28bb for 350$ and thats the common price range in my area for them in good condition. You could also go for an rb20/25 turbo, their similar and around the same price if youre willing to install one. I dont think you mentioned your current flanges or anything but yeah! Good luck and nice car.
Well I cant use any t25-t28 since I have a t3-t4 manifold. I could get an adapter but that will rase my turbo to the hood and I wouldn't have clearance. I might look into getting some t3 turbonetics and swapping that over the summer but im for sure getting a gt35 once I rebuild my engine and shoot for 400+
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Old 05-28-2015, 12:23 PM   #18320
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for the ls swapped guys.

Can those plastic bellhousing dust/inspection covers be easily put on and taken off after the engine and trans are in the car? same for the starter. those are the only things stopping me from putting the engine in, but if they can be put in later, I'd like to drop the engine in now to consolidate space in my shop.
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Old 05-29-2015, 08:53 PM   #18321
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Thanks to all who answered my previous question about the EGR removal. I was able to remove it in the end after a bit of hassling and wiggling around.

It turns out the filter foam around my BPT valve is disintegrated. Can I just replace it with any air filter foam I have laying around the house? Is it even necessary?

Also I cant seem to locate the EGR solenoid. Is it advisable to remove/service it without pulling the intake mani out?
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Old 05-31-2015, 11:38 AM   #18322
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How many amps do the ISIS dual radiators fans draw?
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Old 05-31-2015, 06:08 PM   #18323
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For the guys/gals participating in Time Attack.


Is anyone using Haltech Platinum Sport 1000 Plug and Play Engine Systems for sr20det, and if so how is it when it comes to tuning it on the fly. i.e at the track.


I have a racepak, universal without the data logger, has any one used it with power fc?


I would like honest feedback from actual users please! Thanks!
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Old 06-01-2015, 08:38 AM   #18324
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When filling up the tranny with fluid from the shifter hole, does the fluid go in the white hole where the shifter sits in? Or around it? I read up on it, but I'm not too sure and don't want to do it wrong? Only reason I'm asking is because when I looked down the hole, I saw a little fluid I guess in the tranny around the actual shifter hole.
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Old 06-01-2015, 12:19 PM   #18325
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Ive reused my oem ones several times now. Just make sure you seal them well! Ive put about 30,000kms use on them since swapping to a lighter flywheel and had no issues.
2 of my oem flywheel bolts snapped on the 3rd use. The arp bolts are only like $50, I'd probably just buy another set and not have to worry about it
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Old 06-01-2015, 12:24 PM   #18326
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When filling up the tranny with fluid from the shifter hole, does the fluid go in the white hole where the shifter sits in? Or around it? I read up on it, but I'm not too sure and don't want to do it wrong? Only reason I'm asking is because when I looked down the hole, I saw a little fluid I guess in the tranny around the actual shifter hole.
I always use a pump, and just pump it into the side plug until it comes out, Just make sure the car is level, tranny is level, etc.

Also i usually put in a little extra and put the plug in real fast ( so it doesn't all drain out) just to be safe

It is a pain in the ass to take the shifter and shit off, with the tranny in car, especially if you have big hands.
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Old 06-01-2015, 12:27 PM   #18327
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wrapping up a red top swap in an s14. I am using an AEM uego and AEM ems. I put the o2 sensor that came with the gauge in the test pipe bung, and plugged it into the uego. This leaves the O2 sensor clip on the main wiring harness empty - is this ok, do I need a 2nd o2 sensor in the turbo elbow?

I think I can use the single sensor but it needs the white wire (analog output) spliced to lambda #1 pin 19 - sorry if this is a basic question but how exactly would I go about doing that?
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Old 06-01-2015, 09:15 PM   #18328
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how long does it take to get my build thread approved??
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Old 06-03-2015, 12:21 PM   #18329
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How do you properly remove the small sensor behind the brake pedal?
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Old 06-04-2015, 07:30 AM   #18330
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How do you properly remove the small sensor behind the brake pedal?
Oh boy, you are in for some fun here...

Buy a set of 'stubby' wrenches

Recline your drivers seat all the way down, or if it's a bucket, pull it out.

Lie down, feet towards the back seat

get back up because you now know you need a pad on the clutch pedal so your head can push it to the floor out of your way

look up into the brake area and use the stubby wrench to take off the sensor.

If you have a fre4ind who is shorter than 5'-6" tall, and has smaller hands, buy the beer and pizza and have them do it.
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