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Old 05-13-2015, 11:29 PM   #18271
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No, all SR turbos have water lines.
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Old 05-13-2015, 11:30 PM   #18272
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Originally Posted by jaaanrel View Post
are stock s15 t28's the only sr20 turbo with water lines?

No


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Old 05-14-2015, 02:01 PM   #18273
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No, all SR turbos have water lines.
^yes, even most after markets have water lines as well,its dumb not too have water lines

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Old 05-14-2015, 02:51 PM   #18274
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my dumb question

hello everyone! I own a 240 with a ka24e single overhead cam and my radiator busted! I bought a dual core raidiator from cxracing and installed it! well shortly after my radiator hoses started busting all the way from under the intake to right out of the thermostat! my temp gauge reads cool all the time but for some reason my hoses keep busting! I switched radiator caps back to the stock one and they are still leaking! does anyone have any clue as to what might be causing this? maybe the thermostat is reading cool so it's not allowing it to open! I'm not sure someone please help
thank you -hunter
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Old 05-14-2015, 04:38 PM   #18275
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My s13 passenger rear, 4-5 finger gap, is sitting higher than driver side 1 1/2 finger gap. My springs are tein h-tech springs and I did install them right since I don't hear clunking or anything in the suspension. My frame is all straight I even paid for a frame scan at a body shop. My alignment is all good too. Anyone got some thoughts on this?
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Old 05-15-2015, 06:05 AM   #18276
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What material are mb battles made of?
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Old 05-15-2015, 10:32 AM   #18277
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When I turn my key I just here a spinning noise (I assume from starter) and it doesn't crank. What does that mean?
When you say spinning noise is it like a constant buzzing? :/ somethings up with my starter and not sure what it is yet, trynna figure it out
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Old 05-15-2015, 10:48 AM   #18278
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Originally Posted by Cold Sake View Post
When you say spinning noise is it like a constant buzzing? :/ somethings up with my starter and not sure what it is yet, trynna figure it out

The starter went bad probably solenoid or fly wheel or something. The starter was getting enough voltage while cranking and ended up destroying itself. I got everything fixed up now though
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Old 05-15-2015, 11:47 PM   #18279
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I'm leaking coolant on the driverside of the car. I was driving and a rock went beneath it and must of damaged something.

I looked underneath it and couldn't really find anything.

Any ideas of what it could be??
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Old 05-16-2015, 12:24 AM   #18280
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hunter.reynolds View Post
hello everyone! I own a 240 with a ka24e single overhead cam and my radiator busted! I bought a dual core raidiator from cxracing and installed it! well shortly after my radiator hoses started busting all the way from under the intake to right out of the thermostat! my temp gauge reads cool all the time but for some reason my hoses keep busting! I switched radiator caps back to the stock one and they are still leaking! does anyone have any clue as to what might be causing this? maybe the thermostat is reading cool so it's not allowing it to open! I'm not sure someone please help
thank you -hunter
The only insight I can offer is that thermostats are mechanical so even if its reading cold, the thermostat will still open as normal. Perhaps just replace the hoses with some quality silocone ones? They arent too expensive and have nice asthetics. However thats up to you as I dont know where the leak is coming from! Thats also strange with the sensor reading always cool though, you should definitely inspect that. Your thermostat could be stuck open not allowing the system to warm up properly or there might not be a thermostat installed if its been like this since owning the car. On the extremely cold days here in Canada (dont ask why I would be driving my Silvia in the middle of canadian winter&#128556 my thermostat would stick shut sometimes causing overheating. Thats why a functioning temp sensor is important. Best of luck with the fix!
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Old 05-16-2015, 12:58 PM   #18281
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thank you very much for your opinion! I appreciate it! hopefully I can get it fixed!
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Old 05-16-2015, 01:33 PM   #18282
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zfortune View Post
My s13 passenger rear, 4-5 finger gap, is sitting higher than driver side 1 1/2 finger gap. My springs are tein h-tech springs and I did install them right since I don't hear clunking or anything in the suspension. My frame is all straight I even paid for a frame scan at a body shop. My alignment is all good too. Anyone got some thoughts on this?
Did you loosen any of your suspension arms?

If you're still running the stock arms and you tightened them with the car in the air, this will be part of your problem.

Stock arms/suspension needs to be tightened with normal load on them.
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Old 05-16-2015, 02:06 PM   #18283
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Originally Posted by CrimsonRockett View Post
Did you loosen any of your suspension arms?

If you're still running the stock arms and you tightened them with the car in the air, this will be part of your problem.

Stock arms/suspension needs to be tightened with normal load on them.
No stock arms, they're isis pro arms. The height stayed the same before and after I changed the arms. But yeah I tighten them when there was normal load.
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Old 05-16-2015, 09:34 PM   #18284
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What material are mb battles made of?
alloy???
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Old 05-17-2015, 09:00 AM   #18285
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What is the diameter of the subframe stud? Looking to add a small spacer back between my PBM risers.
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Old 05-18-2015, 07:53 AM   #18286
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I recently picked up a front and rear Cisco strut bar. The rear is perfectly fine but the front appears to be a bit short...

Is it true that you're really supposed to Jack the front of the car up to install a front strut bar? I had a Juran front strut bar but it was length adjustable so I got it to fit. The Cusco one is non adjustable.
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Old 05-18-2015, 01:19 PM   #18287
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ZenkiKid View Post
I recently picked up a front and rear Cisco strut bar. The rear is perfectly fine but the front appears to be a bit short...

Is it true that you're really supposed to Jack the front of the car up to install a front strut bar? I had a Juran front strut bar but it was length adjustable so I got it to fit. The Cusco one is non adjustable.
All load must be removed prior to installing a strut bar.
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Old 05-18-2015, 10:13 PM   #18288
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Anyone have tips on removing the EGR tube from the exhaust manifold? I need to remove the entire EGR assembly to clean it in hopes of passing the NOX smog test.. fml.
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Old 05-18-2015, 11:34 PM   #18289
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Anyone have tips on removing the EGR tube from the exhaust manifold? I need to remove the entire EGR assembly to clean it in hopes of passing the NOX smog test.. fml.
Spray a lot of WD-40, or my favorite PB blaster on the threads of the exhaust part. Let is soak in for about 15 minutes, then sprays bit more and wrench away.
Should come of fairly easy that way.
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Old 05-19-2015, 12:10 AM   #18290
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Originally Posted by Dboyizmlg View Post
Spray a lot of WD-40, or my favorite PB blaster on the threads of the exhaust part. Let is soak in for about 15 minutes, then sprays bit more and wrench away.
Should come of fairly easy that way.
Thanks, I'll give PB blaster a shot! I tried WD-40, but it's possible I did not let it soak long enough. The nut does not want to give way at all.
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Old 05-19-2015, 01:27 AM   #18291
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CrimsonRockett View Post
All load must be removed prior to installing a strut bar.
I was always under the impression that it's best to install when the car is flat on a level surface (under load).
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Old 05-19-2015, 12:21 PM   #18292
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dboyizmlg View Post
Spray a lot of WD-40, or my favorite PB blaster on the threads of the exhaust part. Let is soak in for about 15 minutes, then sprays bit more and wrench away.
Should come of fairly easy that way.
I was gonna say just get a grinder and cut it off , but you guys need to use it for emmissions huh?.

Come up from the bottom with a long ass wrench, and if you strip it use vicegrips
Be prepared to skin a few knuckles and swear . Good luck
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Old 05-19-2015, 12:24 PM   #18293
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I was recently give a carbon gt wing, however it has no stands or mounts.

the only preexisting mounting holes are on the very ends for the end plates, just curious what you guys think would be best for mounting stands to the wing. Had a friend suggest rivnuts.

also where is a decent place to buy just stands and mounts
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Old 05-19-2015, 06:18 PM   #18294
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I was recently give a carbon gt wing, however it has no stands or mounts.

the only preexisting mounting holes are on the very ends for the end plates, just curious what you guys think would be best for mounting stands to the wing. Had a friend suggest rivnuts.

also where is a decent place to buy just stands and mounts
A local machine shop could probably make you custom mounts for cheap.
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Old 05-20-2015, 09:20 AM   #18295
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Quote:
Originally Posted by firstolast View Post
Thanks, I'll give PB blaster a shot! I tried WD-40, but it's possible I did not let it soak long enough. The nut does not want to give way at all.
Don't waste time or money on PB Blaster. Get KROIL, put the stuff on, let it sit 24 hours, then easily remove the stuff without screwing it up
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Old 05-20-2015, 01:39 PM   #18296
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Anyone have tips on removing the EGR tube from the exhaust manifold? I need to remove the entire EGR assembly to clean it in hopes of passing the NOX smog test.. fml.
Just have a exhaust manifold gasket handy as you may need to unbolt it to get the tube to line up again.

But, since you are removing the whole system. You should remove the solenoid from the intake manifold first to make your life easier. Then loosely thread the tube into the manifold before bolting it back to the intake.
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Old 05-20-2015, 02:19 PM   #18297
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This is a very odd question im sure but curiosity has driven me to ask it.

What would happen if I were to run an Rb20Det without boost? Like not have an intercooler connecting the turbo and intake? If it just pulled atmo pressure through the entire rev range?
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Old 05-20-2015, 03:46 PM   #18298
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It won't function properly. The maf. Ect.
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Old 05-20-2015, 03:50 PM   #18299
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This is a very odd question im sure but curiosity has driven me to ask it.

What would happen if I were to run an Rb20Det without boost? Like not have an intercooler connecting the turbo and intake? If it just pulled atmo pressure through the entire rev range?
I would imagine that it would run like shit,
Not gonna run, even if it runs for a tad bit from 1000-2700 rpm, your fuel air ratio will probably flip shit, ecu will be upset etc. car would die easily for lack of proper vacumn and so on
( unless you had like an rb20de or an rb25de or some such stuff in that case it would run fine )

And if your thinking about doing that please do not , youll break something especially with a throttle to the open air

theres no reason to do this

^ wats his face also has a point about the maf and i didn't see him reply
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Old 05-21-2015, 01:55 AM   #18300
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I would imagine that it would run like shit,
Not gonna run, even if it runs for a tad bit from 1000-2700 rpm, your fuel air ratio will probably flip shit, ecu will be upset etc. car would die easily for lack of proper vacumn and so on
( unless you had like an rb20de or an rb25de or some such stuff in that case it would run fine )

And if your thinking about doing that please do not , youll break something especially with a throttle to the open air

theres no reason to do this

^ wats his face also has a point about the maf and i didn't see him reply
I know its a really stupid idea ha! Im just doing a swap and was wondering if id be able to drive it the few blocks to work while my intercooler ships over! Illl definitely just walk a bit longer. But I was curious what would happen.

Small question- I have an rb20 harness and my s14's sr20 harness. Anybody know a good wiring guide? Hard to find an rb20 to s14 one.

Id suppose an s14 240sx (usdm) would have a differebt harness than the jdm one due to the engine difference?
Also id assume the harness isnt the same as an s13's..?

Will I be able to keep my abs?
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