Small Questions Thread (SEARCH FIRST! Use this instead of making NEW threads)

[rebornS14]

sorry, i forgot to measure my trunk last night.

can someone who has a S14 or access to one get me the measurement of the trunk lid width at the lowest point (towards the rear bumper) from edge to edge?

if you can provide a picture with tape measure on it would even be sweeter.

thanks in advance.

[irax]

Has anyone used the Noland CAN Bus data converter ?

[I'm Redline]

Originally Posted by tacobellman_2007

Thanks. So you're basically saying there is a relay not working that connects in between the fuse panel and the battery? Since it is getting too much power.

When you say "lights" as in my dome/room lamp, yes, that is NOT working (of course because the fuse keeps popping). All exterior lights and cluster LIGHTS are working.

And if all relays are good, this means that there is exposed wire either touching other wire or other metal, correct?


P.S. I have been referring to the FSM, it's just difficult for me because I suck at interpreting wiring diagrams!

Get ready for the shitty part of troubleshooting:

Look for the WIRE for each interior light at the fuse panel where the fuse is being blown out. You can do this two ways at this point.
Disconnect the battery

1st way: Use a multi meter to check each single wire from the fuse panel, all the way out to it's power end or ground end. Your meter will deflect if you have a good wire. If your meter does not deflect, your wire is broken or shorted to ground between the ends. replace the broken/short part of the wire after you find it from there...this take a fuck load of time, sucks balls to do because that one wire is probably the one that takes a bunch of other stuff to find it(like breaking open the wire harness protector)

2nd way: Find each wire that goes to the fuse panel for the lights, find it's other end, just replace the wire because you have to do all that other stuff after 'check with multi meter' in the 1st way.

3rd way: Keep the battery connected, and do a continuity check with the hot wires. Either way, you are going to have to tear into the system to replace the bad wire/s

[I'm Redline]

Originally Posted by S14DB

WAT?

When you have unregulated power going directly to the fuse panel due to a shorted relay, you are getting all 650+ amps direct from the battery to the panel which will blow fuses like a mofo

If you have a direct short to power or ground, fuses will blow as well.

Either way, the job of troubleshooting a ghost in the wire is a real bitch

[ShakotanGazelle]

I bought an S14 SR and it has red injectors on the stock fuel rail. I keep hearing red injectors are only KA 270s.

Did these come stock with red injectors? or do i really have KA 270s and my shits gonna blow up?

[Grocery Cart]

SR transmission with KA clutch slave cylinder. Has anyone ever had any issues? I don't understand it. The bolts for the Sr transmission are bigger than the ka slave. I had to drill it out and it's fine.. but still don't understand how no one I've talked to has had this issue..

[I'm Redline]

Originally Posted by rebornS14

sorry, i forgot to measure my trunk last night.

can someone who has a S14 or access to one get me the measurement of the trunk lid width at the lowest point (towards the rear bumper) from edge to edge?

if you can provide a picture with tape measure on it would even be sweeter.

thanks in advance.

Top, across where the spoiler goes, or back, across the tops of the lights?

[EJ8 944]

For S14 Steering rack bushings - is it still recommended to stick with OEM/Nismo for the passenger side bushing? From all the threads I can find, it says the energy suspension passenger bushing is too small for the S14, but then again these threads that I'm reading are several years old. Has this issue been corrected since with ES bushings? The suggestion from most seems to be to buy the combo kit from SPL parts, but I dont see that they sell a Nismo/ES bushing combo for the S14 anymore, and I want to change my bushings soon so, input?

[David48]

The bushing comes up a little short but it doesn't harm anything

[juhd]

planning to buy all the pbm suspension arms but dont have the money to buy all at once. which ones would be better to buy first? i wanna get rucas for sure right off the bat to adjust camber. i know they are all important but what else would be practical with alignments?

[tacobellman_2007]

Originally Posted by jaaanrel

planning to buy all the pbm suspension arms but dont have the money to buy all at once. which ones would be better to buy first? i wanna get rucas for sure right off the bat to adjust camber. i know they are all important but what else would be practical with alignments?

I actually purchased their RUCAs first (after coils) but I can't adjust my camber!! I think you need another set of arms (I think one of the dudes at PBM said Toe Rods?) that go hand in hand with the RUCAs, to actually adjust positive AND negative camber. I thought he said I could only adjust it one way without their Toe Rods(?), but the other day I tried and it wouldn't budge either way! lol.

Or am I doing it wrong???

Still good to purchase RUCAs first though because they'll help for clearance with your coilovers, with that half-moon shape. Just make sure your car is aligned!

[David48]

Originally Posted by jaaanrel

planning to buy all the pbm suspension arms but dont have the money to buy all at once. which ones would be better to buy first? i wanna get rucas for sure right off the bat to adjust camber. i know they are all important but what else would be practical with alignments?

Buy toe arms FIRST. Bad toe will wear through your tires an infinite amount faster than camber. Also like the guy above said, without toe arms you hardly have any camber adjustment if you only get RUCAs. After RUCAs, pick up a pair of front tension rods and you're set.

[tacobellman_2007]

Originally Posted by David48

Buy toe arms FIRST. Bad toe will wear through your tires an infinite amount faster than camber. Also like the guy above said, without toe arms you hardly have any camber adjustment if you only get RUCAs. After RUCAs, pick up a pair of front tension rods and you're set.

F***!!! And I'm about to go get an alignment this Tuesday thinking it would solve my tire wear problem lol. Hopefully they can get my car close to proper alignment to at least lessen the amount of toe wear that's happening on my tires...

This is what happens when you don't buy Toe Arms first:



That was taken almost 3 months ago. It's actually worse now, of course. Really need to buy some Toe Rods soon...

[I'm Redline]

Originally Posted by tacobellman_2007

F***!!! And I'm about to go get an alignment this Tuesday thinking it would solve my tire wear problem lol. Hopefully they can get my car close to proper alignment to at least lessen the amount of toe wear that's happening on my tires...

This is what happens when you don't buy Toe Arms first:



That was taken almost 3 months ago. It's actually worse now, of course. Really need to buy some Toe Rods soon...

That nasty camber wear, worn TENSION RODS can cause that too. Someone here paid huge dollars for OE Tension rods and an alignment for a kouki. The entire SET of ISIS control arms(front and rear, compete set) could have been bought for a lot less, self installed, and the car driven the five blocks to the alignment shop for a lot less...someone learned a very expensive lesson, but the shop will now consider these kits for s-chassis that need to have them replaced due to wear

[240sxdrive]

Hey, really dumb question, lol, but:

Do the heat shield brackets on the Megan test pipe face up or down. Since the underbody already has a heat shield I wasn't sure if they face down so you can put a shield on to hide the test pipe.

Thanks.

[GSXRJJordan]

Originally Posted by 240sxdrive

Hey, really dumb question, lol, but:

Do the heat shield brackets on the Megan test pipe face up or down. Since the underbody already has a heat shield I wasn't sure if they face down so you can put a shield on to hide the test pipe.

Thanks.

Down, to make it look like a cat.

[S14DB]

Originally Posted by ShakotanGazelle

I bought an S14 SR and it has red injectors on the stock fuel rail. I keep hearing red injectors are only KA 270s.

Did these come stock with red injectors? or do i really have KA 270s and my shits gonna blow up?

You can unscrew the two Phillips head screws holding the injector in then look on the flat side of the plastic body for a part number on them.
http://i27.tinypic.com/2cqh3sx.jpg

Originally Posted by I'm Redline

That nasty camber wear, worn TENSION RODS can cause that too. Someone here paid huge dollars for OE Tension rods and an alignment for a kouki. The entire SET of ISIS control arms(front and rear, compete set) could have been bought for a lot less, self installed, and the car driven the five blocks to the alignment shop for a lot less...someone learned a very expensive lesson, but the shop will now consider these kits for s-chassis that need to have them replaced due to wear

That is Toe wear. Camber wear would be progressive across the tread. Toe is the Edge of the tire cupping off.

-Most sets are Toe and RUCA's in the rear. Like said above you won't get far(2*) with RUCA's before you max out the stock toe rods.
-Not many people know how to dial in the rear tension/traction rods. They should be last on the total list.
-Then on the front the tension rods are mainly firming up. A good shop can adjust them. Caster is listed on most alignment machines but not listed as adjustable stock. Before that I would make sure your Tie rod and rod ends are in good shape.

[slidins13s]

Where should the 3 lines be going to from my boost pressure solenoid? I found that one of the three nipples on it was not being used beacause I have been having a missing problem lately. So now I have my WG actuator vac line running to one nipple, Then the nipple on the opposite side is running to my second vac nipple on the TB, and the third nipple is used for my boost controller. Is it supposed to be a boost source instead of vac source?

[dorkidori_s13]

Originally Posted by slidins13s

Where should the 3 lines be going to from my boost pressure solenoid? I found that one of the three nipples on it was not being used beacause I have been having a missing problem lately. So now I have my WG actuator vac line running to one nipple, Then the nipple on the opposite side is running to my second vac nipple on the TB, and the third nipple is used for my boost controller. Is it supposed to be a boost source instead of vac source?

3rd nipple (assuming youre talking about an SR) below the throttle body should be capped as its meant for the OEM charcoal canister. if i remember correctly, bigger nipple goes to wastegate and FPR, smaller nipple goes to blow off valve. nipple UNDER the throttle bottle is capped. my turbo elbow has been tapped as a vacuum source to run to the wastegate so i dont have the FPR line split.

Originally Posted by 240sxdrive

Hey, really dumb question, lol, but:

Do the heat shield brackets on the Megan test pipe face up or down. Since the underbody already has a heat shield I wasn't sure if they face down so you can put a shield on to hide the test pipe.

Thanks.

doesnt really matter, unless you REALLY feel like hunting down a cover (theyre pretty much extinct). break them off, throw them in the garbage otherwise they will start vibrating at certain RPMs. without a cat, you will never "legally" pass smog as it is, so why bother trying to fool law enforcement? (just being blunt)

Originally Posted by ShakotanGazelle

I bought an S14 SR and it has red injectors on the stock fuel rail. I keep hearing red injectors are only KA 270s.

Did these come stock with red injectors? or do i really have KA 270s and my shits gonna blow up?

youve either got OEM KA/SR20de injectors or aftermarket sidefeeds. pop the ECU open and check for any modified ROMs, easiest place to start (without pulling the injectors).

OEM KA24de/SR20de 270cc injectors:


OEM S13/S14 370cc SR20det injectors:


TOMEI/NISMO/HKS sidefeed 740cc injectors:

Originally Posted by alonroz

Anyone knows where i can find out the CFM rating for a Nissan N14/N15 electric radiator fans?

Thanks!

dont run electric fans unless you plan on pulling altima fans (which are the only thing that comes close to flowing proper CFM compared to the OEM clutch fan). clutch fan and shroud are the best options for your KA/SR. unless youre RB or V8 swapped, just stick to the ugly old OEM setup. If you need an SR fan shroud, they can be ordered brand new for about $80 + shipping.

if youre concerned with alternative cooling options, upgrade your radiator to a Koyo 55mm aluminum unit, its a night and day difference! dont cheap out and buy a knock off, a lot of them are poorly built and dont actually have hollow upper and lower tanks!!!

[David48]

Originally Posted by I'm Redline

That nasty camber wear, worn TENSION RODS can cause that too. Someone here paid huge dollars for OE Tension rods and an alignment for a kouki. The entire SET of ISIS control arms(front and rear, compete set) could have been bought for a lot less, self installed, and the car driven the five blocks to the alignment shop for a lot less...someone learned a very expensive lesson, but the shop will now consider these kits for s-chassis that need to have them replaced due to wear

My pet peeve is when people look at that and really think it's camber wear. You aren't riding on the inner 2 inches of your tire only, even if you're at something ridiculous like 7*. That's all toe wear.

[slidins13s]

Originally Posted by dorkidori_s13

3rd nipple (assuming youre talking about an SR) below the throttle body should be capped as its meant for the OEM charcoal canister. if i remember correctly, bigger nipple goes to wastegate and FPR, smaller nipple goes to blow off valve. nipple UNDER the throttle bottle is capped. my turbo elbow has been tapped as a vacuum source to run to the wastegate so i dont have the FPR line split.

No No I understand this and my TB third nipple is capped off and my other two vac lines are done the exact way that you just stated. But when I bought my car with the sr in it I never new what this thing was. MY WG actuator line runs to what reads to be a "turbosmart solenoid valve" which has 3 nipples on it; And one of the nipples was not being used so I didn't know the correct way to run my vac lines with it. So now I have one nipple running to my waste gate, the opposite nipple running to smaller nipple on TB, then the other nipple runs to my boost controller. So is this solenoid needed for my boost controller, or should I just take it out?

[240cracker]

Why is it that I come back to the s chassis scene and everyone suddenly believes their stock KA on some coilovers with beat up interior and exterior is worth 3k now?

just saying... legit question I think..

[irax]

What is the thickness of the plates used to do a V8 swap ?

[Roscoe.]

I'm not a bright person when it comes to electrical work, so I have what could be a very stupid question. Recently my third window amp on my Zenki blew, as well as the motor. Since this was my third amp, my brother and I deleted it following this guide, and I replaced the motor with a new unit from autozone. Now everything on the door harness is running proper, sending ground and power appropriately, but the new motor once plugged in receives power under either switch positions. If I have the motor plugged in, testing wires at the plug on the harness side all signals are appropriate, but motor side both wires receive power. Why this is he case is entirely beyond me. Anyone have any ideas?

[David48]

Originally Posted by 240cracker

Why is it that I come back to the s chassis scene and everyone suddenly believes their stock KA on some coilovers with beat up interior and exterior is worth 3k now?

just saying... legit question I think..

[killer240]

What's a good tie rod boot? I need something that isn't crap.

[sr23det]

any body insight for putting on a boot on a vert? I cannot figure where the center frond section clips on to.... my best guess to i'm missing somethinng

[I'm Redline]

Originally Posted by David48

My pet peeve is when people look at that and really think it's camber wear. You aren't riding on the inner 2 inches of your tire only, even if you're at something ridiculous like 7*. That's all toe wear.

The front tires were down to threads, on the inner sidewall/tread. This was due to worn Tension Rods on both sides, which caused inner camber wear patterns on the tires. The same wear pattern is ALSO indicative of balance, or toe issues. Me, I get irritated when some know-it-all puts out erroneous information like it is fact.
If your tires are worn, rounded on the inside it can be one of three issues:
Balance, Camber, or Toe.
It can be CAUSED by:
Improper balance
Improper Alignment
Worn Tension Rods or Camber Plates
If you are a mechanic, go back to school.

[I'm Redline]

Originally Posted by Roscoe.

I'm not a bright person when it comes to electrical work, so I have what could be a very stupid question. Recently my third window amp on my Zenki blew, as well as the motor. Since this was my third amp, my brother and I deleted it following this guide, and I replaced the motor with a new unit from autozone. Now everything on the door harness is running proper, sending ground and power appropriately, but the new motor once plugged in receives power under either switch positions. If I have the motor plugged in, testing wires at the plug on the harness side all signals are appropriate, but motor side both wires receive power. Why this is he case is entirely beyond me. Anyone have any ideas?

Check the pins in the plug to make sure they are correctly installed. I had to re-pin the plug on my passenger window in my zenki due to this. It appears to be a common issue with NOS/Reman window motors. My Nissan NEW driver's side motor had no such issue.
Caveat: This is just one POSSIBLE issue. Check grounds, look for power shorts, etc

[Agent S14]

do 17" 350Z wheels clear Lan evo brake calipers when on a S14. lol stupid question i know but i need new pads on the front so i decided to upgrade instead.