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Engine Tech Technical discussion related to all relevant engines such as KA, SR, RB, CA, 2JZ , L24/26/28, VG, VQ, and LSx series. |
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07-16-2009, 08:24 PM | #122 | |
Leaky Injector
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Quote:
correction: only remove the intake manifold support bracket if you are going to remove the oil filter from underneath the car. if you want to go from up top and save a lot of time. buy a oil filter cap wrench and use your socket wrench to twist it off. now you wont have to wish that you never had to change your oil again. |
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10-31-2009, 01:34 PM | #124 |
Post Whore!
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Nissan has a part number for spark plugs. They are NGK 7 cold rating copper spark plugs. The part number is 22401-20J07. They come gapped at .35 so they need to be regapped to .28. Why does this matter? Because these plugs only cost $2.90 each.
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11-25-2009, 01:58 PM | #125 | ||
Zilvia Junkie
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I'll post some information I have on S15 ECU codes because the internet is massively failing me at the moment.
So far I've encountered 2 coded ECU's for S15's. Both from the Japanese Market. Some information from Pete at PLMS developments: Quote:
QT part number is 23710 91f05 NQ part number is 23710 91f08 So from the above paragraph you can see why Pete's conclusion makes sense. Also just some good information to have: Quote:
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07-23-2010, 04:30 PM | #127 |
Zilvia Junkie
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sr20det how to fix code 34
I have searched the web and used FSM and found limited info on how to fix code 34.I found write ups on how to bypass the sensor using a resistor,did not want to go that route ,cause if i did and my engine did begin to ping/knock The ECU would not be able to retard timing ,thus preventing engine damage,just want to protect my investment.
1.code 34 means there is something wrong with the knock sensor circuit.It does not mean your engine is knocking. 2.The knock sensor is a Resistor and should read 560M Ohms. 3.on ECU pin 27 (white wire) should produce 5volts with knock sensor disconnected KOEO. KS plug is located between intake runners 3 and 4 disconect it before checking supplied voltage.If OK move on to next step 4.With the KS plug still being disconected check resistance from A (white wire) to engine ground ,it should read 560ohms,wiggle wire connection under manifold ,if resistance changes ,theres your problem,remove KS and check plug and KS for cracks .Replace if ks is out of specs. This is how the knock circuit works, ECU supplies 5 volts to knock sensor ,KS has a base resistance of 560M ohms when the engine is not knocking.The voltage is stepped down to 2.5 volts (this is normal). When the KS senses knocking vibration or pinging the sensor changes resistance in the circuit ,this causes the Voltage to oscillate above and below 2.5volts.Then the ECU retards timing in order to prevent engine damage. Best thing to do on an sr20det powered 240 is to hook up the Consult Diagnostic coinnector and buy a USB to serial Consult cable and download some free software .hook it up to a laptop and you can instantly read all sensor voltages and codes ,I hated doing the LED flashing sequence crap.Otherwise theres no way to really know if we have a code ,I mean we dont have a functional "check engine light"on our gauge cluster to let us know.You can tell when your engine is running like crap tho,but As far as having to do the Flashing LED On the ECU ,forget that!This way is much easier.
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Last edited by nismolvr; 07-23-2010 at 05:42 PM.. Reason: update |
01-21-2011, 10:23 PM | #130 |
89 S13 240sx
I just bought an '89 240. All i can find as far as sr20det motors is 90-93 motors. Will this fit in my '89 or does it have to be specifically for an '89 240? And where is a good place to order an sr from?
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01-22-2011, 05:24 AM | #131 | ||
Post Whore!
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Quote:
Quote:
Nissan SR20DET - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
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*My SR20VET* Does your VTC gear rattle in your S14/15 SR? PM me. |
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05-03-2011, 05:38 PM | #133 |
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Sr20 help
This is my problem, I installed an aftermarket turbo manifold (Megan) and a aftermarket intake manifold (Freddy). My car cranks up and starts to idle back and forth from high to low then about 10 seconds it will cut off. I have no clue where to begin looking at. Can somebody lend me some help with this issue, thanks.
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06-24-2011, 09:35 AM | #135 |
Leaky Injector
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hi, i need some advices, i want to buy the full gasket kit from Cometic... now, this kit comes with A HG 87.5x1.2mm, and the OEM is 86mm bore size... this 1.5mm gap is confusing me... too risky or it doesnt going to affect? should i buy it or find another HG size?
S13 SR20DET RedTop T25 7-12psi |
06-24-2011, 09:49 AM | #136 | |
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Quote:
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07-29-2011, 09:22 PM | #140 |
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Hi sry for being a noob...bought my 1997 kouki with an s13 redtop sr20det swap to it...was reading really hot when the engine was cold..did some research and found out that the people that installed the sr20det didnt swap the temperature sensor for the gauge..bought one for 1997 ka24de (chassis wise) and now its working how it suppose to....now as for the other sensor that goes to the ECU...do i need to swap that too with one from a 1997 KA24de... cuz i read stories of sr20det swaps running rich because of the temp sensor for the ECU...also i saw a writeup of a non turbo SR20de swap..the person who wrote it sed swap both temp sensors..because if u dnt swap the sensor that gives info to the ECU it will run rich..i was wondering if this would apply to my situation or the s13 SR20det...do i need to replace it with one from a 1997 ka24de? also seems like im running rich because car is giving poor gas mileage...
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08-11-2011, 02:23 PM | #141 | |
Zilvia FREAK!
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Quote:
it is possible, i used a CTS of a 91 se'r. and it runs beautifully. I didnt even think my sensor was bad, but after swapping it ran much smoother. |
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08-11-2011, 02:26 PM | #142 | |
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Quote:
Please no questions in the thread. |
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08-16-2011, 11:41 AM | #143 |
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Specifications for the Red Top SR20DET
(Found on the 91-93 180SX & Silvia) Displacement: 1998cc (2.0 liter) Cam Type: DOHC 16 valve, chain driven cam sprockets Bore & Stroke 86mm x 86mm Compression: 8.5:1 Horsepower: 205ps @ 6000rpm Torque: 203 ft/lbs @ 4000rpm Stock Boost: 7 psi Throttle Body Bore: 60mm Injector Size: 370cc/min Turbo Specs: Compressor: T-25, 60 trim 56mm BCI-1 compressor. Turbine: T-25, 62 trim 53.8mm 0.64 A/R turbine housing. Center Section: Journal bearings Performance: The stock turbo will be safe to 13-15 psi. After that, the turbo is past its efficiency range, and power increases will fall off and are not worth the risk of turbo damage. The engine should produce 230-250 RWHP at safe boost. Specifications for the Black Top SR20DET (Found on the 94-98 180SX) Displacement: 1998cc (2.0 liter) Cam Type: DOHC 16 valve, chain driven cam sprockets Bore & Stroke: 86mm x 86mm Compression: 8.5:1 Horsepower: 205hp @ 6000rpm Torque: 203 ft/lbs @ 4000rpm Stock Boost: 7 psi Throttle Body Bore: 60mm Injector Size: 370cc/min Turbo Specs: Compressor: T-25, 60 trim 56mm BCI-1 compressor. Turbine: T-25, 62 trim 53.8mm 0.64 A/R turbine housing. Center Section: Journal bearings Performance: The stock turbo will be safe to 13-15 psi. After that, the turbo is past its efficiency range, and power increases will fall off and are not worth the risk of turbo damage. The engine should produce 230-250 RWHP at safe boost. Specifications for the S14 Black Top SR20DET with VTC (Found on the 95-98 Silvia) Horsepower: 220hp @ 6000rpm Torque: 203 ft/lbs @ 4800rpm Turbo Specs: Compressor: T-28, 60 trim 60mm BCI-1 compressor in T-04B housing Turbine: T-25, 62 trim 53.8mm 0.64 A/R turbine housing. Center Section: Ball Bearing S14 SR20DET's use a different ECU and harness, these are extremely expensive and hard to find. Variable valve timing system and a different turbo are the significant changes from the S13 SR20DET engines. The S13 uses a "low port" intake design vs. the S14 "high port" design. Performance: The stock turbo will be safe to 13-15 psi. After that, the turbo is past its efficiency range, and power increases will fall off and are not worth the risk of turbo damage. The stock engine should produce 250-260 RWHP at safe boost using stock turbo. Upgrading turbo, fuel and rest of need parts will yield 300-375. Specifications for the S15 Black Top SR20DET (Found on the 99+ Silvia) Horsepower: 250ps @ 6000rpm Transmission: 6 Speed, Close Ratio Injector Size: 480cc/min Turbo Specs: Compressor: T-28, 60 trim 60 mm BCI-1 compressor in T-04B housing Turbine: Inconel turbine wheel. Cast divider wall between turbine discharge and wastegate. Center Section: Ball Bearing This engine is expensive and hard to get. If you are on a tight budget, please consider other options as the money you save from buying this engine can be better used to build up a really nice red top. Additions: 6 speed manual transmission. The 6 speed cannot be used on the S13 and S14 motors, and uses a different driveshaft. Speed sensor is located in the differential. The 6 speed is cool, but is not as strong as the 5 speed from the older cars. There is basically 6 gears inside the same housing that was designed to hold 5 gears. This makes the gears smaller and weaker, therby breaking more often. Hope it helps with the back and forth on engine specs |
08-24-2011, 12:20 PM | #144 |
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Just throwing this out there. Oil eats rubber, or more specifically any petroleum based products deteriorate rubber based products. Hence water based lubes with your condoms. So to the "know it all's" on here knocking people for dumb questions, then giving crappy advice, take a second and think about when you didnt know shit either. Otherwise, anyone new to working on their car who comes here for help is going to be coming back and asking why this fell apart or that this new hose that they slipped on with a little oil just split 3-6 months later, and you'll have to be annoyed and tell them to go search some obscure post sprinkled with bad advice again.
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11-18-2011, 03:06 PM | #146 |
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OMFG the next person that asks a question I vote gets banned. I just started reading this thread because I figured it would be full of great information to frequently asked questions, but what did I find? A bunch of noobs asking questions about their own personal problems and questions. STOP FUCKING ASKING QUESTIONS IN HERE AND POST UP ONLY IF YOU HAVE GOOD RELIABLE INFOR-FUCKING-MATION!!!!!!
/rant Most simple boost leak test (for more minor leaks) spray bottle full of soapy water, spray on IC piping couplers, look for bubbles. When replacing thermostat, one of the first things that you should change before installing motor, make sure to take the rubber ring off the edge of the t-stat. It won't seat right otherwise, at least in redtop. AC = easy on the SR. I took KA suction, and high pressure lines, and used the SR compressor fittings that came on the SR compressor (assuming it came with your motor) and took to custom hose maker/fabricator, they welded aluminum SR fittings onto KA lines. Hint: there is a discharge/fill nipple on one of the lines right near the intake inlet on the turbo. when you have the hoses mated, you will want the section with the nipple on it rotated to parallel with the ground, so it doesnt get in the way of the intake tubing(stock). And make sure to replace all o-rings and the accumulator/collection tank. I've got some more stuff, just got to dig it out of the back of my head. |
01-05-2012, 11:09 PM | #147 |
Leaky Injector
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Im a n00b, but does anyone know or have a picture of a sr-20 labeled. I know what the headers and downpipes n shit like that are, but more of inside the engine block. Also how the engine works. sorry for the lame ass questions, no one in my family knows anything about cars
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01-29-2012, 08:51 PM | #148 | |
Zilvia Junkie
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Quote:
I know its tempting to post a question in a thread dedicated to info only but it makes it much more difficult for someone like me searching for an answer. So if you would read even a page of posts you would see half the posts in this thread are telling dumb-asses like you to search for the info..ITT none the less. Here are some links that have helped me along the way... SR20DET wiring ECU pins and description of wire colors Nissan 240sx Performance, Modification, Repair and DIY Articles - by NICOclub.com .: Ultimate 240SX Guide: ECU Pinout Diagrams :. |
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02-03-2012, 11:10 PM | #149 |
s13 blacktop ecu spits out 0-5v square wave on tach output. i needed that info bad when wiring in my AIM dash which expects 0-12v square. a 47k ohm pullup resistor worked perfect for me. note: i've never tried using a dash other than the AIM so ymmv. If you use a pullup, i would recommend using a switched 12v power so you don't pull current through the ecu 24/7.
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02-13-2012, 04:27 AM | #150 |
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Hi guys
Im new to this not sure how to post a new topic, I've just put the blacktop sr20det back into my s14 after a full rebuild, I have no spark at the coils and doesn't sound like the fuel pump is going either?? Any ideas? |
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