Small Questions Thread (SEARCH FIRST! Use this instead of making NEW threads)

[GL Chrillz]

Originally Posted by S14DB

AZ or Advance or one of them had them in sets for under $5.

The caliper frame keeps them in place. The clips keep them from chattering. Best case noisy pads. Worst case uneven wear / binding.

yeah, they obviously wont fall out but theres still a bit too much room for them to move for my liking lol. thanks! i'll check it out

[bc.]

Originally Posted by KiLLeR2001

Its most likely your input shaft bearing. On my SR, when sitting at idle not pressing the clutch pedal at all, it would make this loud whinning sound. Once I pressed down on the clutch pedal, it went away. Naturally I thought it was the TOB. So I replaced it with a new TOB, same noise was there. Now that my car is apart I'm having the transmission rebuilt so that should take care of that!

Ha, I have had this for years. I had replaced the throwout bearing too and it didn't change anything, after that I just didn't really care.

[acslater9]

When coming back home from work today my car started heating up, so I look under the hood and I find coolant everywhere. So I started looking around the hoses, on the floor to see If I have any leaks. And...found nothing.

I don't know what It could be. Any suggestions?

[GL Chrillz]

Originally Posted by acslater9

When coming back home from work today my car started heating up, so I look under the hood and I find coolant everywhere. So I started looking around the hoses, on the floor to see If I have any leaks. And...found nothing.

I don't know what It could be. Any suggestions?

put that purple dye in it or whatever it is and see where its coming from with that? or rent one of those pressure testers from auto zone or something and pressurize the system with the car off and it should start shooting air or coolant out wherever its leaking

[acslater9]

Originally Posted by GL Chrillz

put that purple dye in it or whatever it is and see where its coming from with that? or rent one of those pressure testers from auto zone or something and pressurize the system with the car off and it should start shooting air or coolant out wherever its leaking

thanks but I just needed some anti freeze. I just put some and rode it for a good 10 min without leaking or overheating.

[jr_ss]

Originally Posted by acslater9

When coming back home from work today my car started heating up, so I look under the hood and I find coolant everywhere. So I started looking around the hoses, on the floor to see If I have any leaks. And...found nothing.

I don't know what It could be. Any suggestions?

Originally Posted by acslater9

thanks but I just needed some anti freeze. I just put some and rode it for a good 10 min without leaking or overheating.

That doesn't explain why it was EVERYWHERE...

[PeaceOnesxWai]

^If i leaked everywhere when it overheated, then start looking into the pressure relief valve/lines to overflow tank. If not there then its the pressure cap itself.

[David48]

Originally Posted by tengo240

my chasebays engine harness didnt match any of my trans plugs so i just left them disconected ,when i test drove my car today it wouldnt rev past 3 or maybe 5,000 rpms (tach isnt hooked up either) could this be because i do not have the trans plugs hooked up?

New engine harness and not revving past a certain point sounds like the Mafs isn't hooked up or not hooked up right. Try unplugging it and see if it makes a difference. Does it smell like it's running richer than normal?

Originally Posted by GL Chrillz

first time changing my pads on my s13, and i realized whoever did them before i owned it left the pad retainers off on the rear. is there anywhere i can buy just the retainers from? i cant seem to find them alone from anywhere

Nissan 44080-01P27 Genuine OEM 89-94 S13 240SX Rear Brake Hardware Kit

Originally Posted by Reece

So, I have a 1989 240SX with a KA. I've noticed for a while that when I am either idling or moving, when the clutch is out, I hear a weird noise. Kinda sounds like something is spinning. The thing is, it doesn't change the way the car runs or drives at all. Anyone have an idea what that is? Just wondering.

Definitely a throwout bearing. Only buy brand new OEM throwout bearings from the dealer. Pretty much every aftermarket one is shitty and will immediately make noise. Ask me how I know.

Originally Posted by KiLLeR2001

Its most likely your input shaft bearing. On my SR, when sitting at idle not pressing the clutch pedal at all, it would make this loud whinning sound. Once I pressed down on the clutch pedal, it went away. Naturally I thought it was the TOB. So I replaced it with a new TOB, same noise was there. Now that my car is apart I'm having the transmission rebuilt so that should take care of that!

What brand was the replacement. You more than likely got a shitty one.

Originally Posted by boleary19

Any suggestions on a KA24DET build for about 300-350rwhp? And average cost?

As long as your KA is lowish miles (under 120k) and not ragged on, you can do 350 on an unopened motor. A 2871r, at least 550cc injectors, z32 mafs, and a GOOD Rom tune will get you there pretty easily for maybe $2000-2500 depending on how good you are at finding deals and what you decide to buy new or used. Just make sure you get a good tune and not some SAFC bullshit that your ese's amigo tuned for you.

[Magoo1222]

Anyone know if/where I can buy new trunk trim panels for a hatch, rather than sourcing used ones?

[I'm Redline]

Originally Posted by I'm Redline

$3500 for the engine. You can buy this outright from a shop that builds a sweet KA ready for the -T, or rebuild your own. Price is about the same. Add a Isis Turbo, and FMIC from say a place like Enjuku(where it is inexpensive) and you can add another $1700. Adding a tuned ECU and you have just over $5k invested.

Marshall engine long blocks for Nissan from RPM Machine

or DIY

KA24DE Rebuild Kit, Performance Parts Turbo Rated

If you know what you are doing and can rebuild your own engine, go with the part6s. If not, give them a call and see what they can build for you

If you have the 'lowish miles' engine, AND it can hold between 8# - 10# of boost, you will see a nominal 340hp - 375hp running an air to air FMIC. Water to Air FMIC allows lower boost pressures(9# at 375hp)

The big thing on turbocharging an older KA is at higher boost, you WILL blow out the rings and cause other damage if you do not do it right.

The Isis turbo kit runs ~$1400 shipped, a good Water to Air FMIC will run another ~$700. A GOOD ECU from RS Enthalpy, Enjuku, JWT, for the set up, will run $500 - $800. Turbo tuner, and other small tech, well son, how fast you wanna go? Speed costs.

The key is setting the engine up right. Sure, you can go low boost numbers with cheap add ons and see 300hp...until you blow out your rings. OR, you can rebuild your engine the right way, get good parts, and if your parts can handle it, run max pressures and see 450hp and higher(max pressures net about 450hp on a built engine). Add meth and a stand alone AEM Infinity system, and you can get 500hp - 600hp.

The question you have never answered here, is HOW MUCH CAN YOU SPEND?
How far are you willing to go?
How much work do YOU want to do to get to your goal point?

The above are important questions that will get you to a solid, reliable 350hp or higher. BTW, a little coupe that put 346hp to the wheels was FAF to drive...although it probably was not built safe enough to do so for very long. I am certain Gentlemen Drift can tell you more about that particular car. All I know, is I watched it disappear into the sunset, stalling out at every stop when a wee little Mexican bought it and took it down to Alabama. I watched that car kick his ass for the two miles to get off base, and there is no tellin how bad it kicked his ass all the way to Alabama!

[tengo240]

[QUOTE=David48;5398008]New engine harness and not revving past a certain point sounds like the Mafs isn't hooked up or not hooked up right. Try unplugging it and see if it makes a difference. Does it smell like it's running richer than normal?

the maf was wired wrong , i had to switch the ground with another wire then the car idled fine ,i went to drive it the other day and thats when it wouldnt rev out right ,or at all . was it in limp mode? so i had to swap the power wire and the ground wire pins cause they were in each others place , but when i started the car with it wired wrong the first time couldn't that have grounded out my maf or burnt it out?

ive been over my chassis harness dozens of times , my engine harness is hooked up right ,i put in new plugs,im gonna replace the cts when i got to my garage today and also pull codes .im about to just tear out the chassis harness and use a painless setup , then i guess have this chasebays harness looked at again.

[mau5trap]

After you hydro/petro lock your your engine and fix it. Should you change the spark plugs?

[HipHopHippo]

is there a trick to removing the rear main seal housing

[PeaceOnesxWai]

Originally Posted by HipHopHippo

is there a trick to removing the rear main seal housing

What motor?

If its a SR then you have to drop the Lower & upper oil pan to get to the housing. If its the seal.. drop the tranny, remove clutch & flywheel, pop off the seal and replace.

[HipHopHippo]

Originally Posted by PeaceOnesxWai

What motor?

If its a SR then you have to drop the Lower & upper oil pan to get to the housing. If its the seal.. drop the tranny, remove clutch & flywheel, pop off the seal and replace.

where can you buy a rear main seal housing for an sr20

[acslater9]

Originally Posted by PeaceOnesxWai

^If i leaked everywhere when it overheated, then start looking into the pressure relief valve/lines to overflow tank. If not there then its the pressure cap itself.

That's where it came out from. And I kind of exaggerated when I said "everywhere" It was more like where the pressure cap was. Apparently It wasn't tightened which was weird. But It's all good now.

[unlegendary]

Firestone's lifetime alignment for $199, is it worth it? i understand that they'll only align it to factory specs. my future car mods will include a name brand steering angle kit and modded rear lower control arm.

[whyteboi]

Originally Posted by unlegendary

Firestone's lifetime alignment for $199, is it worth it? i understand that they'll only align it to factory specs. my future car mods will include a name brand steering angle kit and modded rear lower control arm.

I don't know how shops are where you live but around here lowered/slammed cars and cars with so much suspension modification usually breaks the shops "Alignment Warranty" and you have to forfeit a warranty on the work. I'd make sure and have in writing that they would honor the lifetime part.

If you get a cool tech, you can get him to align it to whatever you want. Within reason.

[I'm Redline]

Originally Posted by mau5trap

After you hydro/petro lock your your engine and fix it. Should you change the spark plugs?

Do you mean,'vapor lock', as when the engine gets hot, heats up the fuel lines they there is no liquid fuel in them, then 'locks' the engine due to starvation?

Let it cool, and allow the fuel lines to cool down, fire it up, and 'speed on'

[bc.]

Originally Posted by HipHopHippo

is there a trick to removing the rear main seal housing(4:59pm)

Originally Posted by HipHopHippo

where can you buy a rear main seal housing for an sr20(5:41pm)

Did you break your rear main seal housing 40 min after you asked how to remove it?

[codyace]

Originally Posted by acslater9

When coming back home from work today my car started heating up, so I look under the hood and I find coolant everywhere. So I started looking around the hoses, on the floor to see If I have any leaks. And...found nothing.

I don't know what It could be. Any suggestions?

Steam clean it off, and then keep attention to it. You may have simply overheated, had the system burp, and had the fan spray fluid everywhere.

Originally Posted by unlegendary

Firestone's lifetime alignment for $199, is it worth it? i understand that they'll only align it to factory specs. my future car mods will include a name brand steering angle kit and modded rear lower control arm.

Not a good deal at all if you're going to change to parts that require a 'performance' related alignment. Unless somehow you know the techs there and they acn hook you up, however at most places like that, techs don't stick around too long.

Originally Posted by I'm Redline

Do you mean,'vapor lock', as when the engine gets hot, heats up the fuel lines they there is no liquid fuel in them, then 'locks' the engine due to starvation?

Let it cool, and allow the fuel lines to cool down, fire it up, and 'speed on'

That or he flooded/fouled the plugs out of it.

O/P, take plugs out and see how they look.

Originally Posted by bc.

Did you break your rear main seal housing 40 min after you asked how to remove it?

Willing to bet OP didn't take the lower 2 nuts off the studs that go into the upper pan

[qwerth]

hi guys so my car wont start right away all the time it. it takes like 20-50 times for it to start, this is a problem i've been having for a year i have since replaced my

lower harness including the battery cable
starter
ignition switch

and I'm still fairly new to these cars
what other things should i take a look at or replace?

[mau5trap]

Originally Posted by I'm Redline

Do you mean,'vapor lock', as when the engine gets hot, heats up the fuel lines they there is no liquid fuel in them, then 'locks' the engine due to starvation?

Let it cool, and allow the fuel lines to cool down, fire it up, and 'speed on'

Nah. Actually, one of my injectors was leaking and I kept cranking the engine to make it start. I ended up flooding my engine. Now would it be ideal to change my spark plugs after fixing this

[mau5trap]

Originally Posted by I'm Redline

Do you mean,'vapor lock', as when the engine gets hot, heats up the fuel lines they there is no liquid fuel in them, then 'locks' the engine due to starvation?

Let it cool, and allow the fuel lines to cool down, fire it up, and 'speed on'

Nah. Actually, one of my injectors was leaking and I kept cranking the engine to make it start. I ended up flooding my engine. Now would it be ideal to change my spark plugs after fixing this

[soundboy]

Spark plugs and engine oil. Some gas might get down into the engine

Sent from my GT-P3110 using Tapatalk 4

[bc.]

Originally Posted by soundboy

Spark plugs and engine oil. Some gas might get down into the engine

Sent from my GT-P3110 using Tapatalk 4

He didn't finish saying it, but change your oil too.

[s1333]

On bride seats. Can the plastic grommets that surround the harness holes be removed?

[tengo240]

if i started my car with the maf ground going to the wrong pin would that have fried my maf? my car will not rev past what im guessing is 3000 rpm's . i did since put the wires in the right order but chasebays had them wrong so i wanna know if it would have ruined my maf or anything else cause since i put this harness on nothing really works it seems.

[soundboy]

Sent from my GT-P3110 using Tapatalk 4

[tengo240]

^^^ is the s13 sr the same as the s14 sr?