Small Questions Thread (SEARCH FIRST! Use this instead of making NEW threads)

[Joedrt]

God speed sucked back when they first started because no one knew who they were. But then again so did cp, eagle, and all the other "name" brands. They made cheesy parts that broke then fixed their flaws and if eagle is such a good "name" brand how come I bent 3 of their rods in my all motor 350 that was putting down the same power as my rb with Godspeed rods???

[bc.]

Originally Posted by Joedrt

...if eagle is such a good "name" brand how come I bent 3 of their rods in my all motor 350 that was putting down the same power as my rb with Godspeed rods???

Because your build sucked, either you or somebody else did something wrong to cause premature failure in your '350' (I assume 350Z?)

[sleepyS14se]

i need to know which crossmember i have.

I have a trans x member that has a little arrow stamped on it and what looks like a "D"

i was told it was a s13 5spd x member and i saw a thread that showed a "A" and a "B" style and mine APPEARS to say D.

[S14DB]

Originally Posted by Joedrt

God speed sucked back when they first started because no one knew who they were. But then again so did cp, eagle, and all the other "name" brands. They made cheesy parts that broke then fixed their flaws and if eagle is such a good "name" brand how come I bent 3 of their rods in my all motor 350 that was putting down the same power as my rb with Godspeed rods???

Eagle is not a good brand.

[codyace]

Originally Posted by Kylerkickass240

Okay ya'll can hate or not i dont care but I was interested in these headlights and I have HID's in my car now so I was wondering if the housings for the bulbs would fit into these ones or not

It would be cheaper to tape two chinese tactical lamps to the fender, and you'd have twice the light output.

Originally Posted by Joedrt

God speed sucked back when they first started because no one knew who they were. But then again so did cp, eagle, and all the other "name" brands. They made cheesy parts that broke then fixed their flaws and if eagle is such a good "name" brand how come I bent 3 of their rods in my all motor 350 that was putting down the same power as my rb with Godspeed rods???

The difference is, CP and other name brands started from scratch and used actual engineering, know how, and experience to develop parts that worked well.... whereas companies like Eagle and Godspeed reverse engineered existing good parts at a lower standard, released them to the market at a lower price point, and generally did zero research/development to ensure the longevity.

You get what you pay for. There is a reason you take a chick to a nice place toe at when you're on a date, and go with your buddies to a shithole dinner on the other nights. Both fit the bill, but that is not to mean they are the same.

[Kylerkickass240]

Originally Posted by bc.

I hate more that you used the word "ya'll"

Are you saying you are gonna put HID's behind these yellow lenses? That is gonna blind the shit out of people, is it not?

Not if I can put the housings I have now in these headlights it wont. I'm just wondering if it would work

[DirtySanchezS14]

Currently lookin to buy new wheels and was just wondering how the fitment of some 18x9 +32 would fit on the front and back of my stock body s14?
Or would +20 be better in the front or maybe even in the rear?
Somewhat, actually pretty big noob at offset and all that with wheels
First set of wheels I'm buying for my s14 actually
Thanks

[StealthG-Man]

Originally Posted by DirtySanchezS14

Currently lookin to buy new wheels and was just wondering how the fitment of some 18x9 +32 would fit on the front and back of my stock body s14?
Or would +20 be better in the front or maybe even in the rear?
Somewhat, actually pretty big noob at offset and all that with wheels
First set of wheels I'm buying for my s14 actually
Thanks

You should refer to the fitment thread for this type of question

[codyace]

Originally Posted by DirtySanchezS14

Currently lookin to buy new wheels and was just wondering how the fitment of some 18x9 +32 would fit on the front and back of my stock body s14?
Or would +20 be better in the front or maybe even in the rear?
Somewhat, actually pretty big noob at offset and all that with wheels
First set of wheels I'm buying for my s14 actually
Thanks

18x8.5 Z33 track wheels fit with decent rubber, but are close to the coilovers. You should be able to fit the 9, but I'd check the wheel thread to make sure. It will easily clear the body, but just worried abotu coilover clearence. With that said you can always get small spacer to get it to 20/25 offset too

[bc.]

When I had my motor out, I replaced the rubber steering bushing with a DIF aluminum piece (which was a big old PITA) and now I seemed to have turned it into a bigger one: my steering wheel is off-center. I guess I clocked the linkage one tooth when I put it back, even though I marked the spot. Car tracks straight btw.

Is there a way to fix this without messing with the connection at the steering rack? Can this be taken care of with an alignment?

[Driftwire]

Originally Posted by bc.

When I had my motor out, I replaced the rubber steering bushing with a DIF aluminum piece (which was a big old PITA) and now I seemed to have turned it into a bigger one: my steering wheel is off-center. I guess I clocked the linkage one tooth when I put it back, even though I marked the spot. Car tracks straight btw.

Is there a way to fix this without messing with the connection at the steering rack? Can this be taken care of with an alignment?

I would take it by an alignment shop and see if its something they can fix. I dont see why they wouldnt be able to. If its not that big of a deal to you why not remove the steering wheel and move it a tooth over to have it straight.

Although if you do that make sure you remember that you had done that lmfao

[bc.]

If it is easy enough to clock the steering wheel, I will do that.

My issue with the alignment shop doing it is that I am afraid to have different amount of full lock to the left vs. the right.

[DBone]

Okay, so I've been trying to figure out what this problem is for a few weeks now. My power steering started whining at me a few weeks ago and I unknowingly put ps fluid in it which fixed the immediate problem for a while.
But the problem kept coming back and I kept putting ps fluid in while trying to figure out where the leak was coming from. This happened quite a few times (this being before I became a member and actively searched forums for answers) and one day while changing the oil I saw it fluid leaking from both steering boots so I thought I needed a new rack. Come to find out I'm supposed to use atf so I've used that the past few times it's happened and it seems the problem resolved itself. I haven't gotten whining in 2 weeks, so now I'm not sure if I need a new rack or I was just using the wrong fluid.

I've spent the past two days searching google, zilvia, and other 240 forums and can't figure it out. Any help is appreciated.

stock KA24de

[I'm Redline]

Originally Posted by bc.

When I had my motor out, I replaced the rubber steering bushing with a DIF aluminum piece (which was a big old PITA) and now I seemed to have turned it into a bigger one: my steering wheel is off-center. I guess I clocked the linkage one tooth when I put it back, even though I marked the spot. Car tracks straight btw.

Is there a way to fix this without messing with the connection at the steering rack? Can this be taken care of with an alignment?

bc,
The best way to fix this slight misalignment is to loosen the rack so you can move the steering either left or right to get back to center(12 o'clock).
You know as well as I do that if you reclock the steering wheel you will LOSE some full lock to the side you clock towards. You need to reclock this AT the rack. You KNOW how to do this right, and you have the skill.
drive the car in a straight line. Mark the 11 - 1 area where your wheel is running straight so you can insure you have the wheel set when you get under the front. Loosen up the rack and reclock it. This can also be checked at the wheel after you tighten as the wheel SHOULD be at 12. As we like to say when we are driving, DUDE, you GOT this fucking shit!

Originally Posted by DBone

Okay, so I've been trying to figure out what this problem is for a few weeks now. My power steering started whining at me a few weeks ago and I unknowingly put ps fluid in it which fixed the immediate problem for a while.
But the problem kept coming back and I kept putting ps fluid in while trying to figure out where the leak was coming from. This happened quite a few times (this being before I became a member and actively searched forums for answers) and one day while changing the oil I saw it fluid leaking from both steering boots so I thought I needed a new rack. Come to find out I'm supposed to use atf so I've used that the past few times it's happened and it seems the problem resolved itself. I haven't gotten whining in 2 weeks, so now I'm not sure if I need a new rack or I was just using the wrong fluid.

I've spent the past two days searching google, zilvia, and other 240 forums and can't figure it out. Any help is appreciated.

stock KA24de

You might want to run your system and flush it with ATF while you have the drain plug opened. This will take about a half court to do it right. Pressurize the system, open the drain, allow old fluid to come out, close. Add fluid at the top, repeat for a half qt. Get some cleaner, or soap and water, and clean the outer parts of the system off. Check for leaks, fix any you find.
I am thinking that using the wrong fluid may have caused the seals to constrict a little, but when you replaced the atf in the system the seals then swelled back up to normal. Oil based and synthetic fluids DO react differently on some seals. The seal may constrict with one fluid, but swell with another through simple chemical reaction.

[DBone]

Originally Posted by I'm Redline

bc,

You might want to run your system and flush it with ATF while you have the drain plug opened. This will take about a half court to do it right. Pressurize the system, open the drain, allow old fluid to come out, close. Add fluid at the top, repeat for a half qt. Get some cleaner, or soap and water, and clean the outer parts of the system off. Check for leaks, fix any you find.
I am thinking that using the wrong fluid may have caused the seals to constrict a little, but when you replaced the atf in the system the seals then swelled back up to normal. Oil based and synthetic fluids DO react differently on some seals. The seal may constrict with one fluid, but swell with another through simple chemical reaction.

Thanks! I'll try this tonight or tomorrow morning. I hope I don't need to replace the whole rack.

[S14DB]

Originally Posted by DirtySanchezS14

Currently lookin to buy new wheels and was just wondering how the fitment of some 18x9 +32 would fit on the front and back of my stock body s14?
Or would +20 be better in the front or maybe even in the rear?
Somewhat, actually pretty big noob at offset and all that with wheels
First set of wheels I'm buying for my s14 actually
Thanks

+20 would look and fit a lot better with a 9" on a S14. +32 would be cutting it close to the coilover in the front depending on what brand you got and what tires. Also, I would worry about rubbing lock to lock in the front.

Rear, you could get more rubber under there with a +32 but it would mess up your track width.

Originally Posted by I'm Redline

You might want to run your system and flush it with ATF while you have the drain plug opened. This will take about a half court to do it right. Pressurize the system, open the drain, allow old fluid to come out, close. Add fluid at the top, repeat for a half qt. Get some cleaner, or soap and water, and clean the outer parts of the system off. Check for leaks, fix any you find.
I am thinking that using the wrong fluid may have caused the seals to constrict a little, but when you replaced the atf in the system the seals then swelled back up to normal. Oil based and synthetic fluids DO react differently on some seals. The seal may constrict with one fluid, but swell with another through simple chemical reaction.

Synthetic vs Mineral reacting with the seals is old wives tales.
The only difference is the extended life oils have more detergents in them to last longer. Because the oil wouldn't wear out the detergents would be consumed. The detergents would clean up the deposits around the old seals and they would leak because the seals were gone and the deposits were actually keeping the seal.

The problem he had was the PS fluid is a different weight than ATF. That is why it got past the seals.

I would flush out what you can but it will eventually all weep out. So, you will still have some leaking till it's all gone.
The bigger problem than the leaking is the PS won't protect the pump from wear. That is the big reason I would flush or drain and refill a couple times to get it all out. It is also where the wining was coming from.
I wouldn't worry about the rack too much. Those seals should recover after being in the right fluid for a while

[manny(ΣAE)]

Almost finished doing my 5 speed swap on my 97 s14 (95 transmission), i am only stuck on the wiring, (5th gear sensor, revers lights, and neutral) wanted to get the original plugs but i cant find them anywhere, i checked autozone and pepboys but i couldnt find them, is their any car i can take them off from the junk yard?

[KravingAKouki]

Ok riddle me this. In my hatch, the lock cylinder on the driver door is left for unlock, and right for lock. In my s14, it is opposite. The only reason I am asking this is because the hatches hatch is right for unluck. So my question is could my lock cylinder(s) be rotated 180 degrees? like flipped around for this or do all s13s come this way? Thanks guys.

[HipHopHippo]

I broke a rocker arm and then lost the shims, i couldnt find them in the head, and then i took off the oil pan and baffle plate, and i still cant find them. what should my next step be?

It was on the exhaust side of cylinder number four, so im kind of thinking it fell in that back oil passage. would using an air gun to blow it out be a possible answer, or could it blow it back somewhere farther?

[Edwin562]

Just recently got my car up n running.
Having a little issue with my Z brakes. Keep in mind everything is new expect the caliper it self.

Issue: if i step on the pedal, after a second or 2 i start hearing a loud screech like if im running on low brake pad. As soon as the screeching started these lines start on my rotors started showing up. Could this be a potential problem later on?



Running:
Z32 26mm Calipers (rebuilt & not split)
88rotors drilled n slotted rotors
Onyx Ceramic brake pads
Agency power SS lines
Z32 BMC & Booster
ATE blue brake fluid.

I have properly bleed my brake system. brakes run great, its just the screeching and the "lines" on my rotors are worrying me.

Appreciate the help.

[StealthG-Man]

Originally Posted by Edwin562

Just recently got my car up n running.
Having a little issue with my Z brakes. Keep in mind everything is new expect the caliper it self.

Issue: if i step on the pedal, after a second or 2 i start hearing a loud screech like if im running on low brake pad. As soon as the screeching started these lines start on my rotors started showing up. Could this be a potential problem later on?

Running:
Z32 26mm Calipers (rebuilt & not split)
88rotors drilled n slotted rotors
Onyx Ceramic brake pads
Agency power SS lines
Z32 BMC & Booster
ATE blue brake fluid.

I have properly bleed my brake system. brakes run great, its just the screeching and the "lines" on my rotors are worrying me.

Appreciate the help.

Check if the rotor is warped, has developed grooves, or uneven wear. Also check the pads for uneven wear also. Rotate the rotors and take note of whether it wobbles or not. May need to resurface the rotors.

[HipHopHippo]

Originally Posted by HipHopHippo

I broke a rocker arm and then lost the shims, i couldnt find them in the head, and then i took off the oil pan and baffle plate, and i still cant find them. what should my next step be?

It was on the exhaust side of cylinder number four, so im kind of thinking it fell in that back oil passage. would using an air gun to blow it out be a possible answer, or could it blow it back somewhere farther?

Nevermind i found them

[kurtiis]

I just picked up a set of Work VS-XX in 17's and I have a quick question. I tried searching but nothing really answered my question.

Is it ok to drive with 3 assembly bolts missing from the wheel? I'm ordering the replacement bolts soon and just wanted to know if its ok to drive on them temporarily

[Martino]

oops, delete plz

[sharad909]

NEED Suggestion...
I've got a 92 HB. It just got painted a month ago to Metallic Grey.
I got some clear front turn signals.
Question is: Should I light tint my turn signal or leave it clear?

[bmar19]

should my car shut off when i plug the maf in? its a z32 on a ka-t...please let me know thanks!!

[yodc]

Originally Posted by sharad909

NEED Suggestion...
I've got a 92 HB. It just got painted a month ago to Metallic Grey.
I got some clear front turn signals.
Question is: Should I light tint my turn signal or leave it clear?

Cut masking tape to only tint a design into one of the turn signals... I'd do the left.

[I'm Redline]

Originally Posted by HipHopHippo

I broke a rocker arm and then lost the shims, i couldnt find them in the head, and then i took off the oil pan and baffle plate, and i still cant find them. what should my next step be?

It was on the exhaust side of cylinder number four, so im kind of thinking it fell in that back oil passage. would using an air gun to blow it out be a possible answer, or could it blow it back somewhere farther?

Originally Posted by HipHopHippo

Nevermind i found them

Is it just me, or does this forebode a bad ending in the near future?

Hip Hop, you know we love you man, but have you considered finding a friend who knows what he, or she is doing and can do it well without breaking parts or losing stuff down the engine? You could truly benefit from a good mentor

[bc.]

Originally Posted by Edwin562

Just recently got my car up n running.
Having a little issue with my Z brakes. Keep in mind everything is new expect the caliper it self.

Issue: if i step on the pedal, after a second or 2 i start hearing a loud screech like if im running on low brake pad. As soon as the screeching started these lines start on my rotors started showing up. Could this be a potential problem later on?
Running:
Z32 26mm Calipers (rebuilt & not split)
88rotors drilled n slotted rotors
Onyx Ceramic brake pads
Agency power SS lines
Z32 BMC & Booster
ATE blue brake fluid.

I have properly bleed my brake system. brakes run great, its just the screeching and the "lines" on my rotors are worrying me.

Appreciate the help.

Everything is new? Sounds like you may just have squeaky brake pads, that's all. As long as they stop your car fine, nothing to worry about. Keep an eye on those 'coloration' lines if you want, but I don't think you have anything to worry about, just squeaky pads.

[bc.]

Originally Posted by I'm Redline

bc,
The best way to fix this slight misalignment is to loosen the rack so you can move the steering either left or right to get back to center(12 o'clock).
You know as well as I do that if you reclock the steering wheel you will LOSE some full lock to the side you clock towards. You need to reclock this AT the rack. You KNOW how to do this right, and you have the skill.
drive the car in a straight line. Mark the 11 - 1 area where your wheel is running straight so you can insure you have the wheel set when you get under the front. Loosen up the rack and reclock it.

Ughhhh, I fucking hated putting this damn bushing on with the motor out of the car, this is gonna be even worse. Thanks for confirming my suspicions though