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Old 07-29-2013, 04:18 PM   #14431
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I have a jumper harness for a turbo timer, where do i plug it in?
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Old 07-29-2013, 04:54 PM   #14432
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s14 96 240 fixed mast antenna removal?

I kept turning it clockwise but then it got to the point where it turned the little gasket and trim. I'm a noob at doing my own things. Anyone else deal with this? How can I take it off?
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Old 07-29-2013, 04:58 PM   #14433
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HipHopHippo View Post
I have a jumper harness for a turbo timer, where do i plug it in?
Remove the trim around your steering column/turn signal/wiper stalk. Follow the harness rom the key cylinder, the harness plug should be about 6in from the cylinder.
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Old 07-29-2013, 07:32 PM   #14434
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So I was directed here does anyone know if rb26 piston sleeves fit in an rb25 block???
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Old 07-29-2013, 09:00 PM   #14435
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Remove the trim around your steering column/turn signal/wiper stalk. Follow the harness rom the key cylinder, the harness plug should be about 6in from the cylinder.
oh alright, i didnt see it at first because i thought it was right up near the steering wheel
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Old 07-29-2013, 09:23 PM   #14436
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anyone have pictures of toe rod/arm getting bent from being to low? i'm trying to get a visual refference
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Old 07-29-2013, 10:28 PM   #14437
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Quote:
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anyone have pictures of toe rod/arm getting bent from being to low? i'm trying to get a visual refference
If you imagine the car being this low, the toe arm basically has to go straight through the subframe to get this much travel

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Old 07-29-2013, 10:43 PM   #14438
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gotcha, if it was a staight type arm and being that low i would guess it would have a 1/2 spacing from arm to sf stud/nut
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Old 07-29-2013, 10:59 PM   #14439
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Replacing my wiring harnesses in my '95 S14. What connects to the threaded post inside the fuse box?
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Old 07-30-2013, 12:34 AM   #14440
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anyone who which side driver/passenger side powers the defrosters on a s13 hatch?

Im talking when you lift up the hatch, there's 2 sides of where the wiring are at the top.
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OCD isn't so bad just means you'll spend more money then most people, but you'll have a quality car not a POS put together with POS parts.
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Old 07-30-2013, 06:56 AM   #14441
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Quote:
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anyone who which side driver/passenger side powers the defrosters on a s13 hatch?

Im talking when you lift up the hatch, there's 2 sides of where the wiring are at the top.
They are two separately powered sides. Your AM antenna wiring goes to the rear window as well.

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Do SPL bronze Z32 shifter bushings with the Mazworx Z32 shifter and if so do you like them? Called Mazworx already- They weren't sure.
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Old 07-30-2013, 07:55 AM   #14442
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Do SPL bronze Z32 shifter bushings with the Mazworx Z32 shifter and if so do you like them? Called Mazworx already- They weren't sure.

Call FRS and ask them or email SPL. But I dont see why they wouldnt work.

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Did you check the potato fuse located in the front right corner of your gas tank?
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No i haven't. To be honest i didnt know there was a fuse there. Thats not a fuse for the fuel pump is it?
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Old 07-30-2013, 08:09 AM   #14443
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PeaceOnesxWai View Post
Yea, the S13 coils wont fit in there.. So i guess I have a S13.5 cover now, NICEEEEE


S15 coil packs will work with S13 head? or should I get some Splitfire? or LS1 coils... I know S15 coils have built in ignitors, not sure how this is gonna work.
For as cheap and easy as LS coil packs are to do, I'd see no reason not to go this way. You could have a better performing, more reliable setup and spedn half as much as a splitfire setup.
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Old 07-30-2013, 11:29 AM   #14444
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Call FRS and ask them or email SPL. But I dont see why they wouldnt work.

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Meh, not that important- just a 'small question' lol

Bushings are here already, shifter will be here with the rest of the installation kit soon enough- Then I'll know. Thanks dude!
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Old 07-30-2013, 04:22 PM   #14445
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Is it possible that my walbro fuel pump is gradually dying? It doesn't prime with the ignition on occasion and I can't figure out why. (Every time it doesn't work, it does so at a time when I don't have time to trouble shoot.)

The other day, I was driving it and the car sputtered under boost and ran lean, like the pump was shutting off, later it drove fine.
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Old 07-30-2013, 04:55 PM   #14446
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My Walbro pump died gradually. It would be fine until the car warmed up and the fuel in the tank got warmer from the fuel that was running through the rail and returning.

It eventually got to the point where it would lean out under boost and sputter/break up. I put in an Aeromotive Stealth 340.
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Old 07-30-2013, 08:13 PM   #14447
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does anyone know of a reputable wheel repair facility? specifically someone who can re-chrome an 18" lip.
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Old 07-30-2013, 08:42 PM   #14448
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KA24DE, 220K Miles.

I changed my mounts today, and while doing so I changed my oil. It was a little over due, so the oil was black and thin. I put Castrol Syntec 5W-30 back in. Shortly after start up I noticed the Oil Pressure light was on. You could hear the timing chain really loud. After it warmed up though, the light will go on and off. at ~2K RPM there is a weird ticking nose that sounds like it's coming from the middle of the engine. I really hope its not the oil pump. Any ideas?
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Old 07-30-2013, 10:34 PM   #14449
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Can you mix hydraulic and solid lifters? More specifically 7 solid lifters and 1 hydraulic lifter?
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Old 07-31-2013, 06:16 AM   #14450
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Quote:
Originally Posted by UNKNOWNvSOLDIER View Post
KA24DE, 220K Miles.

I changed my mounts today, and while doing so I changed my oil. It was a little over due, so the oil was black and thin. I put Castrol Syntec 5W-30 back in. Shortly after start up I noticed the Oil Pressure light was on. You could hear the timing chain really loud. After it warmed up though, the light will go on and off. at ~2K RPM there is a weird ticking nose that sounds like it's coming from the middle of the engine. I really hope its not the oil pump. Any ideas?
Get a screwdriver with a long blade. Place the blade at the center of the engine, and your ear on teh handle. Listen to your engine. You might be able to hear where exactly the noise is coming from.

WAG's:
You have a timing chain guide out
Timing chain tensioner is out
Rod is showing stress cracks before it detonates out the side of the block
Center bearing on crank is bad
Cam bearings are bad
Bad shim/bucket

I can go on and on, but you get the idea. Until you listen to it and locate exactly where it's coming from, you won't know


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Can you mix hydraulic and solid lifters? More specifically 7 solid lifters and 1 hydraulic lifter?
Sure, go ahead, you are getting better at breaking parts, OR
Run 8 of either one, but not a mix and you will be fine
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Old 07-31-2013, 07:51 AM   #14451
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HipHopHippo View Post
Can you mix hydraulic and solid lifters? More specifically 7 solid lifters and 1 hydraulic lifter?
You might be the only person on the internet to ever ask this!

I would absolutely not do this, but I don't know what is gonna happen if you do. The part of me that wants a well built car that isn't gonna break says "fuck no", but the part of me that is curious says "why the fuck not".
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Old 07-31-2013, 08:57 AM   #14452
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Fuck it. Go for it and tell us what happens.
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Old 07-31-2013, 09:54 AM   #14453
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Im fucking pioneering new technology over here
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Old 07-31-2013, 10:23 AM   #14454
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Anyone here running a recirculated SSQV? Do I need to buy the 19mm or 29mm fitting? Getting tired of running pig rich and idle drop so I'm going to be buying this in the next few days.
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Old 07-31-2013, 06:58 PM   #14455
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My stock SR exhaust manifold has a small hole drilled into it from where the previous owner had an EGT guage probe installed and I was wondering if there was a way to safely plug it. There are no threads left in the whole so I'm looking for a recommendation on what to do. Thanks
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Old 07-31-2013, 07:19 PM   #14456
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^ if the hole isn't too big you can fill it with a mig but you need to preheat the cast
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Old 08-01-2013, 07:12 AM   #14457
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bc. View Post
You might be the only person on the internet to ever ask this!

I would absolutely not do this, but I don't know what is gonna happen if you do. The part of me that wants a well built car that isn't gonna break says "fuck no", but the part of me that is curious says "why the fuck not".
HAHAHAHA That is SO what I was thinking too!

I just know Hip Hop is going to DO IT ANYWAY because he has the parts or it's the cheap way out. SO we just might get to know. Me, you, we would never ever entertain the idea...ever. Hip Hop, though, well, he DID ask!


Hip Hop; do the words catastrophic failure of valve train mean anything to you? Let me tell you exactly how a SR20 reacts to valvetrain failure(I know this from recent experience). The valve closes and due to a rocker lifter or a shim/bucket/spring fails. The valve stays closed and the cylinder has no (in my case) exhaust valve opening. The intake continues and the cylinder fills. The detonation happens. It stresses the rod and rod cap. The rod cap stresses until it breaks and BAM, out the side of the block.

Catastrophic Valvetrain Failure = Blown engine block in an SR0. Now in my case, I was on the freeway doing 75mph. I tried to get off the side of the road in heavy traffic, but could not. I was pretty much forced to 'stay in it' because big truck behind me. I could not just stop in a fast lane of traffic when I heard the clink clink clink of valvetrain breakage. SO guess what, Catastrophic valvetrain failure led to blown engine at speed...that fuckin truck backed the fuck off when teh engine blew though, all the motherfuckers did...I just wish they would have when I had a signal and was looking over my shoulder with that aw fuck look...then it would have only cost $200 instead of $1400

So go ahead, mix your shit up and make a crappy built engine
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Old 08-01-2013, 08:42 AM   #14458
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HAHAHAHA That is SO what I was thinking too!

I just know Hip Hop is going to DO IT ANYWAY because he has the parts or it's the cheap way out. SO we just might get to know. Me, you, we would never ever entertain the idea...ever. Hip Hop, though, well, he DID ask!


Hip Hop; do the words catastrophic failure of valve train mean anything to you? Let me tell you exactly how a SR20 reacts to valvetrain failure(I know this from recent experience). The valve closes and due to a rocker lifter or a shim/bucket/spring fails. The valve stays closed and the cylinder has no (in my case) exhaust valve opening. The intake continues and the cylinder fills. The detonation happens. It stresses the rod and rod cap. The rod cap stresses until it breaks and BAM, out the side of the block.

Catastrophic Valvetrain Failure = Blown engine block in an SR0. Now in my case, I was on the freeway doing 75mph. I tried to get off the side of the road in heavy traffic, but could not. I was pretty much forced to 'stay in it' because big truck behind me. I could not just stop in a fast lane of traffic when I heard the clink clink clink of valvetrain breakage. SO guess what, Catastrophic valvetrain failure led to blown engine at speed...that fuckin truck backed the fuck off when teh engine blew though, all the motherfuckers did...I just wish they would have when I had a signal and was looking over my shoulder with that aw fuck look...then it would have only cost $200 instead of $1400

So go ahead, mix your shit up and make a crappy built engine
Calm down nerd, I'm not actually doing it
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Old 08-01-2013, 11:48 AM   #14459
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Calm down nerd, I'm not actually doing it
good thing too, otherwise your engine would be hiphop a knock'n til your rods fly out your block'n...... beyatch!!!
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Old 08-01-2013, 11:52 AM   #14460
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good thing too, otherwise your engine would be hiphop a knock'n til your rods fly out your block'n...... beyatch!!!
lol

I broke a rocker arm one time, a lifter a different time, and nothing came flying out the side of my engine.
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