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Old 07-22-2013, 09:50 AM   #14341
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Fuel pump randomly lost power???

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My car was running fine, I had just put about 100 miles on my built motor with no issues, so why would it just suddenly not work?

I am taking the fusebox apart tonight to look for shorts, but that fuse swap-magical-engine start really is messing with my head. Also gonna check the EGI and EGI pump relays, maybe they are 'going' bad, but not totally fried yet?

EDIT: Re-grounded or cleaned all the grounds by the fuse box and I got everything to work again. Not sure why it got bad in the first place, maybe just some rough roads or something.
Quote:
Originally Posted by codyace View Post
The grounds are a place to check for sure, but that stinking EGI relay really causes a ton of headache, especially on cars where it burns out in the ECU, and the previous owner jumps the relay near it for power.
So after I re-grounded everything it has since decided not to start several times, my best guess is that the car has become self aware and doesn't feel like driving :/

I have replaced the EGI and EGI pump relays with new ones, with no help.

When it doesn't start, I can still hear that the fuel pump is not priming.

The weird thing is that I don't touch anything, and bam, it starts right up the next day. Vice versa, after driving it for a day and not touching anything, it decides not to start the next day. At this point, I do not turn it off anywhere except my house, trying to avoid getting stranded. It is VERY frustrating because the car is running so well right now.
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Old 07-22-2013, 12:06 PM   #14342
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Thank you. I don't have the car with me, but I don't think I have that.


With that figured out...

My brake master cylinder is leaking. What should I change it to? Just buy an oem non abs mc (((

Brake Master Cylinder Non ABS 1995 98 Nissan 240sx s14 Used | eBay


for example))) or upgrade it to the 300zx bmc? My set up is 4 lug. Keeping it that way. I am upgrading the rotors, pads, ss lines, fluid, to aftermarket pieces.

Thanks!
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Old 07-22-2013, 12:26 PM   #14343
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Originally Posted by hellion240sx View Post
Thank you. I don't have the car with me, but I don't think I have that.


With that figured out...

My brake master cylinder is leaking. What should I change it to? Just buy an oem non abs mc (((

Brake Master Cylinder Non ABS 1995 98 Nissan 240sx s14 Used | eBay


for example))) or upgrade it to the 300zx bmc? My set up is 4 lug. Keeping it that way. I am upgrading the rotors, pads, ss lines, fluid, to aftermarket pieces.

Thanks!
I wouldn't upgrade unless switching to different calipers.
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Old 07-22-2013, 12:31 PM   #14344
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Yeah that's what I thought, but figured I would ask first.

Oem piece it is. Hopefully it will last.

Besides I think if I did get a bigger one it would throw off the balance iirc from a post I read while searching.
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Old 07-22-2013, 02:03 PM   #14345
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So I Rb20 Swapped my S13 Bled the hell out of the clutch... And so when I'm engage the clutch its like at the very top about 85% full retracted is when I engage. So I read some forums and adjust the little Rod thing behind the pedal and still... At the top so imrunning out of ideas please help.
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Old 07-22-2013, 02:36 PM   #14346
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If I'm upgrading cams in an S14 SR to Tomei Poncams, how important is it to upgrade springs and retainers? How is the BC kit?
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Old 07-22-2013, 02:46 PM   #14347
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Quote:
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If I'm upgrading cams in an S14 SR to Tomei Poncams, how important is it to upgrade springs and retainers? How is the BC kit?
Shouldn't need springs with the poncams...only the pro cams. If you do need springs get Tomei springs.
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Old 07-22-2013, 03:11 PM   #14348
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how can you tell if your cas is bad? sr20det
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OCD isn't so bad just means you'll spend more money then most people, but you'll have a quality car not a POS put together with POS parts.
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Old 07-22-2013, 07:57 PM   #14349
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OK so I have my JDM vlsd on my car and I have the J30 5 bolt axles ALSO installed and now I see that my driveshaft is too short! When I did my 5 speed swap I got it from a sohc coupe which I believe had no abs. I was reading some posts and majority says that the abs driveshaft is shorter. So my question is why is my non abs driveshaft not reaching my vlsd that doesn't seem to have an abs sensor on it? And what driveshaft would I need to make this work because this is my daily driver?

Last edited by that_one_coupe; 07-22-2013 at 07:58 PM.. Reason: spelling
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Old 07-22-2013, 08:09 PM   #14350
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OK so I have my JDM vlsd on my car and I have the J30 5 bolt axles ALSO installed and now I see that my driveshaft is too short! When I did my 5 speed swap I got it from a sohc coupe which I believe had no abs. I was reading some posts and majority says that the abs driveshaft is shorter. So my question is why is my non abs driveshaft not reaching my vlsd that doesn't seem to have an abs sensor on it? And what driveshaft would I need to make this work because this is my daily driver?
Perhaps you are jamming the driveshaft all the way into the transmission, pull it out a little bit. Either that or you have an ABS driveshaft when you think its a NON-ABS. By how far are you off?
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Old 07-22-2013, 08:19 PM   #14351
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Perhaps you are jamming the driveshaft all the way into the transmission, pull it out a little bit. Either that or you have an ABS driveshaft when you think its a NON-ABS. By how far are you off?
I want to say about an inch or so. I'll take a picture when I get home and upload it. I thought your driveshaft is supposed to go all it can into the transmission?
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Old 07-22-2013, 08:37 PM   #14352
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Need a complete s13 long block , came across sr20de for cheap is there any difference in the de and det other than a turbo and the coilpack setup. Thanks!
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Old 07-22-2013, 09:01 PM   #14353
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I want to say about an inch or so. I'll take a picture when I get home and upload it. I thought your driveshaft is supposed to go all it can into the transmission?
It goes all the way in, then maybe out a half inch to an inch or so. If you were supposed to put it all the way in it would be a bitch to get it onto the diff.
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Old 07-22-2013, 11:57 PM   #14354
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What is the size and pitch of the screws used for S13 Headlight surrounds? I bought my 240 without them, I found a pair but I don't have the screws to mount them.
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Old 07-23-2013, 12:44 AM   #14355
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sorry guys I gave it another shot and it turns out that the driveshaft bolted up nicely. So my non abs driveshaft worked w/the JDM s13 vlsd I bought. Thanks for the help.
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Old 07-23-2013, 10:06 AM   #14356
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so i had to re pin my maf plug on my chasebays harness, now the car starts and idles fine but ,when it starts you can hear the idle kinda catch itself and pick up to where it will idle the whole time its running, my tach isnt working so im not sure exactly where its idleing at but it sounds kinda high .

also when i turn the motor off everything is really hot , even my intake manifold ,EVERYTHING .when i adjust the iacv to all the way closed it still idles the same .my temp gauge isnt working right either.the gauges where working the first few times i started the car then they stopped , fuse maybe?

so my questions are ,
where is the link that someone posted here before to show how to properly pull codes?

why is my car not responding to closing the iacv?

why is my motor so hot? i have a thermal intake spacer gasket on but its still super hot .

it acts like its trying to warm up the whole time its running . any help would be appreciated . btw its a redtop sr, stock injectors and stock sr maf, walbro fuel pump .

im hoping more of my chasebays harness will not need to be re pinned ,and that this is just a leaky injector or a bad ect sensor? thanks zilvia .
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Old 07-23-2013, 11:03 AM   #14357
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Originally Posted by tengo240 View Post
so i had to re pin my maf plug on my chasebays harness, now the car starts and idles fine but ,when it starts you can hear the idle kinda catch itself and pick up to where it will idle the whole time its running, my tach isnt working so im not sure exactly where its idleing at but it sounds kinda high .

also when i turn the motor off everything is really hot , even my intake manifold ,EVERYTHING .when i adjust the iacv to all the way closed it still idles the same .my temp gauge isnt working right either.the gauges where working the first few times i started the car then they stopped , fuse maybe?

so my questions are ,
where is the link that someone posted here before to show how to properly pull codes?

why is my car not responding to closing the iacv?

why is my motor so hot? i have a thermal intake spacer gasket on but its still super hot .

it acts like its trying to warm up the whole time its running . any help would be appreciated . btw its a redtop sr, stock injectors and stock sr maf, walbro fuel pump .

im hoping more of my chasebays harness will not need to be re pinned ,and that this is just a leaky injector or a bad ect sensor? thanks zilvia .
If your coolant temp sensor isn't working, it may be telling your motor that it is not warm yet and it needs to warm up.

Does your radiator get hot? Do you have fans directing air over your radiator?
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Old 07-24-2013, 09:04 AM   #14358
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I'm having coolant smell inside the car. No leaks inside the car. I'm thinking maybe the heater core is going out but hasnt crapped out to full leakage OR turbo coolant line is leaking and is burning on some exhaust pipe.

Anyone have a similar issue with a resolution?

Thanks!

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Old 07-24-2013, 11:33 AM   #14359
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does anyone what temp sensor to use on the stance water neck adapter I searched and dint find nothing help please!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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Old 07-24-2013, 01:08 PM   #14360
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I'm having coolant smell inside the car. No leaks inside the car. I'm thinking maybe the heater core is going out but hasnt crapped out to full leakage OR turbo coolant line is leaking and is burning on some exhaust pipe.

Anyone have a similar issue with a resolution?

Thanks!

G.
Well, it definitely isn't not a leak, so keep searching and I am sure you will find it.

It may be leaking from just a tiny pinhole, so it doesn't have to be wet on your carpet to be leaking inside the car. Also, are you losing a bunch of coolant.
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Old 07-24-2013, 02:59 PM   #14361
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can you use the apexi turbo timer to tell the a/f on a blacktop sr?
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Old 07-24-2013, 03:11 PM   #14362
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can you use the apexi turbo timer to tell the a/f on a blacktop sr?
Accurately? No.
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Old 07-24-2013, 03:16 PM   #14363
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Accurately? No.
barnacles. Is it that way for apexi turbo timers in general or just sr20s?
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Old 07-24-2013, 03:22 PM   #14364
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barnacles. Is it that way for apexi turbo timers in general or just sr20s?
In general. It's reading a narrow band signal.
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Old 07-24-2013, 03:25 PM   #14365
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In general. It's reading a narrow band signal.
Oh ok, thanks
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Old 07-24-2013, 05:57 PM   #14366
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Hey guys im doing some wire cleanup and found this male harness connection but no female in sight this is on the driver side. I have manual everything and was thinking this would plug into a female harness connection that gives power to power door locks and windows if I had them. Any help is appreciated, thank you in advance

Sent from my SGH-M919 using Tapatalk 4 Beta
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How much power does your shit box make there champ?
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Old 07-24-2013, 07:45 PM   #14367
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my clutch engagement point is almost to the floor........ can this be the reason???
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Old 07-24-2013, 08:08 PM   #14368
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Hey guys im doing some wire cleanup and found this male harness connection but no female in sight this is on the driver side. I have manual everything and was thinking this would plug into a female harness connection that gives power to power door locks and windows if I had them. Any help is appreciated, thank you in advance

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It's a diagnostic port
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Old 07-24-2013, 08:09 PM   #14369
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So for the guys using nx1600 digital cluster. Has anyone figured out/ is there a way to make the tachometer work in a single cam? Converter boxes? Ignition upgrade? Anything?
Bump... Anybody??
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Old 07-24-2013, 08:11 PM   #14370
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It's a diagnostic port
Its a 1990 s13 stock sohc I thought there was no diagnostic port? Ive been pulling codes through the ecu according to led flashes.

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How much power does your shit box make there champ?
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