Small Questions Thread (SEARCH FIRST! Use this instead of making NEW threads)

[zombiewolf513]

I have the same issue right now. Ober time it has gotten harder to steer, my rack also creaks close to full lock, makes loud cracking sounds, and pulls to both sides even after multiple alignments.

[HipHopHippo]

Originally Posted by zombiewolf513

I have the same issue right now. Ober time it has gotten harder to steer, my rack also creaks close to full lock, makes loud cracking sounds, and pulls to both sides even after multiple alignments.

Right. I really have to manhandle mine to get it to turn. I also forgot to mention that I dont have the electric plug for the power steering but that shouldnt make that big of a difference.

[anti tyler]

Originally Posted by bc.

Quick question (no offense to anyone) I hope someone can help.


Q: Are the questions on here getting dumber? I feel like the same shit is getting asked over and over by different people.

It's the "dumb questions" like this, that are trashing up this website.
(no offense taken)

As for your guys' problems;

Originally Posted by HipHopHippo

My power steering only kind of works. I still have to push it pretty hard to get it to turn. I bought a new pump and have custom lines, what elsd could be causing it?

Originally Posted by zombiewolf513

I have the same issue right now. Ober time it has gotten harder to steer, my rack also creaks close to full lock, makes loud cracking sounds, and pulls to both sides even after multiple alignments.

Look into a new rack & pinion. if you're hell bent on the idea that it's not your belt being loose, and your pump being good. Then I'm willing to bet your seals and such are going out.

If you're working with a front wheel drive car, also look into your CV shafts. Although I'm fully aware this is a nissan site, My fiance has an issue similar to this, with her axles on her hyundai.

Food for thought.

[HipHopHippo]

Originally Posted by anti tyler

It's the "dumb questions" like this, that are trashing up this website.
(no offense taken)

As for your guys' problems;






Look into a new rack & pinion. if you're hell bent on the idea that it's not your belt being loose, and your pump being good. Then I'm willing to bet your seals and such are going out.

If you're working with a front wheel drive car, also look into your CV shafts. Although I'm fully aware this is a nissan site, My fiance has an issue similar to this, with her axles on her hyundai.

Food for thought.

I just put in one of those refurb rack and pinions off of ebay, can the belt really be the issue?

[93fastback]

I've tried searching on my phone but its not working.
Is 17x9.5 too wide for the front wheels? Would 9" be fine? The offset is +12. Would I have to
roll or pull fenders with either? I have stock suspension now but will be
getting coilovers soon I'm not trying to go crazy low but a nice drop. Also anyone know any good brands for hub eccentric rings?
*

[anti tyler]

Originally Posted by HipHopHippo

I just put in one of those refurb rack and pinions off of ebay, can the belt really be the issue?

Belt really could be an issue.

Like I started to mention in a different post, my fiance's car had an issue with the belt tensioner. occasionally it wouldn't apply full tension, and the belt wouldn't come off of the pully, it would slip.

So she'd have intermitten power steering, followed by brief moments of manual steering.

There really isn't too much going on with power steering, aside from the pump & rack. If you are the one with custom lines, do look into the pressure factor. If your lines are bigger etc.. you may not be building enough pressure.


What I did was remove everything PS related. I found a tutorial on greasing & welding closed the feed nipples on the rack. Turned it into a manual rack. But that's just what I ended up doing.

In theory it is actually possible for your pump to have allowed some metal shavings to block a line or two.

[7RIFT0]

Originally Posted by VNG704

Really? There are many how to swap guides out there. You need the s14, s13 sr wire harness and sr ecu but not the s14 ecu. What you'll have to do is mix and match some of the wiring from one to the other. Seriously, google it "s13 sr20 into s14."

Found it all. Thank you.
-John

[theStig880]

Originally Posted by bc.

The always classic, "my car wont get as slammed as the cool kids cars do " complaint...

I would try adjusting them when they are off the car first and make sure they all measure out similar max and min heights. Then call the coilover company if you notice an inconsistency.

I appreciate your response but I think you missed my point. Its not that the coilovers don't go low as the "cool kid", whatever that means. They're plenty low. Its just to get them at the same height, the passenger side isn't as low as the driver side. When I installed them I took tons of measurements to insure I wouldn't have this problem and that was over a year ago. I don't believe they're blown either because they have hardly been beaten on. I'll take them off this weekend and check the measurements again, I guess.

[HipHopHippo]

Originally Posted by anti tyler

Belt really could be an issue.

Like I started to mention in a different post, my fiance's car had an issue with the belt tensioner. occasionally it wouldn't apply full tension, and the belt wouldn't come off of the pully, it would slip.

So she'd have intermitten power steering, followed by brief moments of manual steering.

There really isn't too much going on with power steering, aside from the pump & rack. If you are the one with custom lines, do look into the pressure factor. If your lines are bigger etc.. you may not be building enough pressure.


What I did was remove everything PS related. I found a tutorial on greasing & welding closed the feed nipples on the rack. Turned it into a manual rack. But that's just what I ended up doing.

In theory it is actually possible for your pump to have allowed some metal shavings to block a line or two.

Hmm ok, how do I tell if my pump is tight enough?

[powermymotor]

when i replace the head gasket.. do i need to take off the intake manifold ..what do i take off? when taking the off the head?.. while having the engine inside?

[yetijeff]

Used the search feature and google already but my question is what's the difference between s13 ka24de and s14. Besides the number of valve cover bolts and the obvious obdI and obdII difference. I'm just talking about the long blocks themselves not the intake and emissions systems. In other words are the long blocks interchangeable?

[I'm Redline]

Originally Posted by theStig880

I appreciate your response but I think you missed my point. Its not that the coilovers don't go low as the "cool kid", whatever that means. They're plenty low. Its just to get them at the same height, the passenger side isn't as low as the driver side. When I installed them I took tons of measurements to insure I wouldn't have this problem and that was over a year ago. I don't believe they're blown either because they have hardly been beaten on. I'll take them off this weekend and check the measurements again, I guess.

Take the coil overs off. While the car is on the jack stands up in the rear, check your suspension geometry. Somewhere you have something incorrectly aligned. After you figure that out, take the coil overs and move them to exact equal measurements 1/2" ABOVE where you want the car to sit in the end. Don't bottom the fuckers out either(I can hear others now,"Oh I bottomed mine out and don't have any problems" BFD, great for you). After you have everything put back together, put the wheels on, remove the jack stands, and drop that sucker onto the ground. Take it out, and drive it at least two miles with a little spirit. Go home. Look at it. After driving the suspension should have settled to where you want it. If not, you have suspension issues, or coil over build issues.

I and a friend just raised the CO's on a S13 USDM build up 1/2" because the idiot that had the car before the trade for a hardcore straight from Japan JDM car had no clue what he was doing. The CO's were bottomed out, bumping and grinding because they were not correctly installed, so we took the fuckers off, reset them 1/2" above where we wanted them and straight nailed the measurement after the car drove for a mile or so and the suspension settled.

[s13coupe92]

do r32 gtr (sumitomo) front calipers use the exact same conversion lines as z32s? the gtr caliper is 32mm and the z32 is 30mm so im just not 100% sure. i also read something bout the gtr calipers use a different type of fitting. also with r32 calipers should a z32 bmc be good? thanks!

[anti tyler]

Originally Posted by HipHopHippo

Hmm ok, how do I tell if my pump is tight enough?

Well I mean you would be able to see if the belt was slipping easily.

Start the car and leave it out of gear & go under the hold. feather the throttle and see if it slips.

it's got to be a pump thing if its intermittent.

[anti tyler]

Originally Posted by yetijeff

Used the search feature and google already but my question is what's the difference between s13 ka24de and s14. Besides the number of valve cover bolts and the obvious obdI and obdII difference. I'm just talking about the long blocks themselves not the intake and emissions systems. In other words are the long blocks interchangeable?

If you're talking about basically swapping heads between the two, I have a few friends that have done that. Haven't heard anything negative about it.

I don't know too much about it to put in a factoid on it being legit.
But I would assume as long as you have the two machined to match, it wouldn't matter? I don't think there's many dissimilarities between the two. my

[bc.]

Originally Posted by s13coupe92

do r32 gtr (sumitomo) front calipers use the exact same conversion lines as z32s? the gtr caliper is 32mm and the z32 is 30mm so im just not 100% sure. i also read something bout the gtr calipers use a different type of fitting. also with r32 calipers should a z32 bmc be good? thanks!

The BMC should be good, you aren't really getting much more out of R32 fronts that you aren't getting out of Z32 fronts. I think I am using the 1 1/16 one. Not sure about the conversion lines... sorry.

[Spore_Print]

What is the part located in the rear that connects the back strut to the axle?

[Grocery Cart]

How does the ecu get power? This is all I need to know and I've looked at the FSM and I cannot make sense of it, I've asked on here a few times with no answer. It seems like a really simple question and yeah. Help. ;_;

[powermymotor]

is 400whp still good for daily driver? while racking up 100k miles?

[bc.]

Originally Posted by Spore_Print

What is the part located in the rear that connects the back strut to the axle?

Spindle is the word I think you are looking for. It holds the suspension arms and wheel bearing as well.

Originally Posted by Grocery Cart

How does the ecu get power? This is all I need to know and I've looked at the FSM and I cannot make sense of it, I've asked on here a few times with no answer. It seems like a really simple question and yeah. Help. ;_;

Pretty sure it gets it from the battery, and that is in the engine bay. Keep looking on the FSM and I am sure you will find what you are looking for.

Originally Posted by powermymotor

is 400whp still good for daily driver? while racking up 100k miles?

Still good? As oppose to what, 500whp? Personally, I wouldn't daily drive anything under 550whp. Maybe it's just me, but I think you might have a hard time driving 100K miles on a 400whp motor, depending on the motor of course.

[I'm Redline]

Originally Posted by Grocery Cart

How does the ecu get power? This is all I need to know and I've looked at the FSM and I cannot make sense of it, I've asked on here a few times with no answer. It seems like a really simple question and yeah. Help. ;_;

From ECU to Battery (+)

ECU F4A1 ---> F5 ECU Plug
F5 ECU plug -> F6 Main Harness plug @ firewall
F6 splits to:
All Engine sensors inclusive of MAF, TB, O2, etc
and
F12/F13 Underhood Fuse Box
---> Relay in Fuse Box
----> (+) Battery

That is from my FSM for a 1996 S14. Yours should be very similar

[zombiewolf513]

Originally Posted by Spore_Print

What is the part located in the rear that connects the back strut to the axle?

The knuckle.

Originally Posted by powermymotor

is 400whp still good for daily driver? while racking up 100k miles?

Yes. The engine wont make 400whp all the time or anything. People (includig myself) do it all the time. Not like its a 1000hp drag car.

[VNG704]

s14 tension rod bolt, the 4" one, grade 8.8 bolt safe to use? Had to buy because it did not come with the rods and I had to cut the oem one off. The original didn't have any stamped number and the store I went to didn't have anything tougher. Every other store was closed that sunday evening. I can definately get under there with a tougher grade bolt now but just wondering if it's even needed as 8.8 seems pretty tough, but what do I know.

[GL Chrillz]

my connector broke on my o2 sensor on my s13 sr20, and i stupidly cut off the wires when i was doing the swap into a new shell without labeling which wire goes to which on the sensor. does anyone know? the red/white/black are on the o2 sensor side, the black/blackgray/browngray are on the harness side. also, holy big pictures. i dont know how to scale them down.

[bc.]

Originally Posted by bc.

I just installed my pan a few months ago but don't remember what the bolts were. Here is some info directly out of my Mechanics of Materials textbook:

8.8
Minimum proof strength = 600 MPa
Minimum tensile strength = 830 MPa
minimum Yield strength = 660 MPa
Material = Medium carbon, Q&T

12.9
Minimum proof strength = 970 MPa
Minimum tensile strength = 1220 MPa
minimum Yield strength = 1100 MPa
Material = Alloy, Q&T

Q&T means quenched and treated
Minimum strengths are exceeded by 99% of fasteners

I think you will be ok with 8.8

[georgeasorous]

i got 2 boxes of free lucas 80w-90 gear oil and i was wondering if anyone has used it on there ka24de m/t?

[whyteboi]

Originally Posted by georgeasorous

i got 2 boxes of free lucas 80w-90 gear oil and i was wondering if anyone has used it on there ka24de m/t?

I'd just throw it in there. I through whatever is cheapest into my trans.

[zombiewolf513]

Originally Posted by whyteboi

I'd just throw it in there. I through whatever is cheapest into my trans.

I used to do the same thing, id just throw coastal in it. After switching to royal purple i realized how hard the coastal was making it to shift. Ill never use cheap gear oil again

[GL Chrillz]

Originally Posted by zombiewolf513

I used to do the same thing, id just throw coastal in it. After switching to royal purple i realized how hard the coastal was making it to shift. Ill never use cheap gear oil again

that's good to hear because I just put royal purple in my sr trans but i haven't been able to drive my car yet. i was hoping the extra money was worth it on the trans fluid

[GSXRJJordan]

Originally Posted by Exotic Drift

if i wanna relocate my s14 fuse box inside my dash where air bag is, what do i need to do? im doing an ls1 swap and i want a decent/clean look.

if i strip my fuse box harness to bare wires would the fuse box reach the airbag location while the headlight plugs stay behind in there original postion?

also im getting my ls1 harness converted over at jordan innovations would it reach the fuse box in the dash?

Relocating the factory fusebox is a huge pain in the ass, and then you have a huge S14 fusebox somewhere in the car. Not the business, plus there are multiple wires that are the same color and the same size, so getting everything back together is a tricky affair.

We've got a small, sealed fuse/relay box that can replace the stock fusebox, although we'd still have to have the car here to do a fusebox relocation.