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Old 04-25-2013, 01:13 AM   #13531
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I'm trying to read up on steering angle stuff, but theirs so many factors I'm getting lost.

my car has all stock suspension except 2" lowering springs.
For extra angle, I use tien (s13?) tie rods
spacers(Which one do you guys recommend, or can I use washers?)
Stock outter tie rods?

Nevermind - I found a video that helped a lot. My new question is: Which outter tie rods do you suggest?
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Old 04-25-2013, 05:14 AM   #13532
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Miguelone View Post
HOLY FUCK WHAT THE FUCK IS THIS UNDER TRANSPORTATION OFFICES AND MARKINGS!?!?!?!?

Vehicle registration plates of Japan - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
I never use wikipedia or anything wiki since it is all considered junk in school...probably why I didn't look, but just because you put it there, you know I bookmarked it.
I have Kyoto JDM plates for Yashio factory, and 'Go for Death' that I sell on Forza4, also a Signal Auto one, but whenever I see a plate on a car from the 'net looking for Silvia's I always try to figure out where it is from. Got a Kyoto prefecture plate all made up for my Zenki too. Fake as hell, but from 20' looks real enough
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Old 04-25-2013, 05:45 AM   #13533
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I have a hole in my exhaust tubing, if I temporarily disconnect the exhaust fr halfway down will it damage the bottom of my car?
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Old 04-25-2013, 07:57 AM   #13534
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HipHopHippo View Post
I have a hole in my exhaust tubing, if I temporarily disconnect the exhaust fr halfway down will it damage the bottom of my car?
Hole in exhaust piping? If your car is stationary, should be fine to disconnect it.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Breareos View Post
I was looking into getting this hood, and I to questions about her that I like some opinions on. Both questions are about the lip, or built-in spoiler, at the back of the hood.

1. do you think it would obstruct vision at all from inside the cabin?

2. It doesn't appear to have holes mounted for the windshield washer fluid nozzles, not like drilling new ones is any problem. Would the lip get in the way of the windshield washer fluid?
1. Depends how short you are.
2. If you put it on the lip, it may spray too high. If you put it on the more level area, it will spray the hood.
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Old 04-25-2013, 08:11 AM   #13535
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Quote:
Originally Posted by I'm Redline View Post
I never use wikipedia or anything wiki since it is all considered junk in school...probably why I didn't look, but just because you put it there, you know I bookmarked it.
I have Kyoto JDM plates for Yashio factory, and 'Go for Death' that I sell on Forza4, also a Signal Auto one, but whenever I see a plate on a car from the 'net looking for Silvia's I always try to figure out where it is from. Got a Kyoto prefecture plate all made up for my Zenki too. Fake as hell, but from 20' looks real enough
Look on ebay for genuine Jap plates, there's tonnes of them available from Thailand/Phillipines/Malaysia/Hong Kong since that's where a lot of Jap cars end up either as imports or as parts. I have a pair of Kasakube, Saitama Prefecture 300 class plates. They're cheap too, going rate is about $70 for a matching pair.
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Old 04-25-2013, 08:26 AM   #13536
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VNG704 View Post
Hole in exhaust piping? If your car is stationary, should be fine to disconnect it.


1. Depends how short you are.
2. If you put it on the lip, it may spray too high. If you put it on the more level area, it will spray the hood.

Yes a hole and I mean while driving
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Old 04-25-2013, 08:28 AM   #13537
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DialedLife View Post
I'm trying to read up on steering angle stuff, but theirs so many factors I'm getting lost.

my car has all stock suspension except 2" lowering springs.
For extra angle, I use tien (s13?) tie rods
spacers(Which one do you guys recommend, or can I use washers?)
Stock outter tie rods?

Nevermind - I found a video that helped a lot. My new question is: Which outter tie rods do you suggest?
I would be more worried about upgrading the rest of your suspension before even worrying about steering angle.
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Old 04-25-2013, 12:36 PM   #13538
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Originally Posted by Nissansota240 View Post
I would be more worried about upgrading the rest of your suspension before even worrying about steering angle.
Which parts break the easiest/most often?
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Old 04-25-2013, 12:54 PM   #13539
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i was gonna do a painless setup for my chassis , has anyone ever done this before and if so could you tell me what i need to buy from painless to do so . thanks
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Old 04-25-2013, 02:45 PM   #13540
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DialedLife View Post
Which parts break the easiest/most often?
Nothing if you don't hit anything.

If you aren't *trying* to do anything (drift, drag, hard park) and you don't know enough to know which direction to go in, then don't go wild.

ALLLLLLLLLLLLL 240's have worn out bushings. Start replacing those. They won't cost you a lot and you'll learn a lot doing the work replacing them.
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Old 04-25-2013, 06:26 PM   #13541
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can someone post a few pictures of the driver side fuse box of an s13 , most importantly the square plug wired right before the fuse box, it has a black wire that looks like a ground on it ,it used to plug into my old charge harness , the other side plugs in and has a white wire with what looks like the same kind of ground , does one of these attach to the starter or alternator?

i put on a chasebays engine harness and charge harness they told me there charge harness eliminates all the stuff on the oem sr charge harness . please help!! i just need the previously asked for pics and whatever else you think would be helpfull as far as chassis sub harness pics ,charge harness pics and fuse box plug pics .

its a 89 hatch with a s13 redtop, chasebays harness and chase bays charge harness, i moved the chassis/fuse boxes behind the dash . i get no crank unless i touch the starter wires together ,and im not getting any fuel even a prime,and no check engine light on the gauge cluster. please help
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Old 04-25-2013, 07:44 PM   #13542
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HipHopHippo View Post
I have a hole in my exhaust tubing, if I temporarily disconnect the exhaust fr halfway down will it damage the bottom of my car?
and yes i am going to drive it
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Old 04-25-2013, 07:50 PM   #13543
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HipHopHippo View Post
I have a hole in my exhaust tubing, if I temporarily disconnect the exhaust fr halfway down will it damage the bottom of my car?
and yes i am going to drive it
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Old 04-25-2013, 08:55 PM   #13544
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HipHopHippo View Post
and yes i am going to drive it
Get a Exhaust Pipe sleeve style clamp, and Copper Exhaust Gasket Maker Permatex.
Cut the pipe where the hole is(you have to replace it later on anyway), slide the clamp sleeve on. Squeeze a line of the permatex on each side as close to the cut as you can. Squeeze a second line 1/2" away from it, the another 1/2 from that one. Hold the pipe together and slide the clamp and fit the clamp. Get it nice and tight, then wait for the stuff to cure, at least 8 hours.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/wlk-36439/overview/

Gasket Makers : Permatex® Ultra Copper® Maximum Temperature RTV Silicone Gasket Maker

plus the permatex sets you back maybe $20...also similar is available at Autozone etc.

This will work until you can replace the pipe...ask me how I know
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Old 04-25-2013, 08:56 PM   #13545
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Quote:
Originally Posted by I'm Redline View Post
Get a Exhaust Pipe sleeve style clamp, and Copper Exhaust Gasket Maker Permatex.
Cut the pipe where the hole is(you have to replace it later on anyway), slide the clamp sleeve on. Squeeze a line of the permatex on each side as close to the cut as you can. Squeeze a second line 1/2" away from it, the another 1/2 from that one. Hold the pipe together and slide the clamp and fit the clamp. Get it nice and tight, then wait for the stuff to cure, at least 8 hours.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/wlk-36439/overview/

Gasket Makers : Permatex® Ultra Copper® Maximum Temperature RTV Silicone Gasket Maker

plus the permatex sets you back maybe $20...also similar is available at Autozone etc.

This will work until you can replace the pipe...ask me how I know
this is a good idea, thanks
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Old 04-25-2013, 10:16 PM   #13546
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Does the SR20 Greddy oil pan generally come with stainless steel, 8.8, or 12.9 steel bolts?
Is it alright to use stainless steel hardware to mount the lower oil pan? I am not sure if I should order 12.9 hardware instead of the stainless bolts I have, or if they are fine to use.
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Old 04-25-2013, 10:29 PM   #13547
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QUESTION!!!!!!

So today i had to replace the battery in my clifford car alarm remote. And i went out to go start my car (95 S14) and it wouldnt turn over, the dome lights wouldnt turn on. Nothing. So my guess is that the car alarm is killing the connection to the battery. The model of my alarm system is Clifford Matrix 50.5x

I didnt put in the alarm or had it put in, they guy who i bought it from had it installed im pretty sure. Im reaching out here im desperate.
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Old 04-25-2013, 10:32 PM   #13548
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Matej View Post
Does the SR20 Greddy oil pan generally come with stainless steel, 8.8, or 12.9 steel bolts?
Is it alright to use stainless steel hardware to mount the lower oil pan? I am not sure if I should order 12.9 hardware instead of the stainless bolts I have, or if they are fine to use.
I don't see why not, just don't overtorque.
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Old 04-25-2013, 10:34 PM   #13549
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ryandriftingfat View Post
Nothing if you don't hit anything.

If you aren't *trying* to do anything (drift, drag, hard park) and you don't know enough to know which direction to go in, then don't go wild.

ALLLLLLLLLLLLL 240's have worn out bushings. Start replacing those. They won't cost you a lot and you'll learn a lot doing the work replacing them.
I do drift the car.

And yeah today when I was under it I noticed the bushings are toast.

I am saving to do inner tie rods+spacers. Should I upgrade the outter tie rods and the tension rods?
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Old 04-25-2013, 10:43 PM   #13550
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DialedLife View Post
I do drift the car.

And yeah today when I was under it I noticed the bushings are toast.

I am saving to do inner tie rods+spacers. Should I upgrade the outter tie rods and the tension rods?
Upgrade whatever you want. If you so low that you get a lot of bumpsteer, get roll-center adjustable tie rod ends.
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Old 04-26-2013, 03:40 AM   #13551
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Hello all i had a question concerning ka24de transmissions and the harnesses that connect them to the main harness.

Im about to swap a manual obd1 s13 transmission into my s14 obd1 engine.
I understand that the difference between s13 and s14 transmission is the sensor on top of the bellhousing. Is there any other differences such as the s13 and s14 trans having different plugs on the trans? maybe obd1 and obd2 ka24de transmissions have different plugs?

As for the lower harness, do i use a s13 lower harness to plug into the trans? can it mate to my s14 engine harness? orrr do i have to get s14 lower harness? does it matter if its an obd1 or obd2 lower harness? is there really a difference?

sorry for blocks of texts ,
thankyou for any replies.
Can someone answer this please?

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk 2
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Old 04-26-2013, 08:47 AM   #13552
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HipHopHippo View Post
Yes a hole and I mean while driving
Well, don't disconnect it while driving, I think you would get hurt.
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Old 04-26-2013, 09:00 AM   #13553
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Matej View Post
Does the SR20 Greddy oil pan generally come with stainless steel, 8.8, or 12.9 steel bolts?
Is it alright to use stainless steel hardware to mount the lower oil pan? I am not sure if I should order 12.9 hardware instead of the stainless bolts I have, or if they are fine to use.
I just installed my pan a few months ago but don't remember what the bolts were. Here is some info directly out of my Mechanics of Materials textbook:

8.8
Minimum proof strength = 600 MPa
Minimum tensile strength = 830 MPa
minimum Yield strength = 660 MPa
Material = Medium carbon, Q&T

12.9
Minimum proof strength = 970 MPa
Minimum tensile strength = 1220 MPa
minimum Yield strength = 1100 MPa
Material = Alloy, Q&T

Q&T means quenched and treated
Minimum strengths are exceeded by 99% of fasteners
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Old 04-26-2013, 11:00 AM   #13554
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On a stock s14, can someone tell me how far down the Rear Fender lip is, to the body line?
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Old 04-26-2013, 11:51 AM   #13555
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VNG704 View Post
1. Depends how short you are.
2. If you put it on the lip, it may spray too high. If you put it on the more level area, it will spray the hood.
5'7". Think I should be fine.

I swear I saw the red car had windshield washer nozzles on it. I don't know...
Screw it, I'll just get an M-Sports hood and not have to worry about a lip.

Thanks for the response!
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Old 04-26-2013, 01:18 PM   #13556
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Bad ass hood for cars with some power underneath, needing some serious air flow. I went hunting around on the webs to possibly buy this hood and the cheapest I found this hood for is 1400 USD and shipping to FL via "ocean" was 821. As functional and pretty neat looking as it is, I can't justify spending 2k for a hood. A damn shame!
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Old 04-26-2013, 01:33 PM   #13557
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Will s13 pignose lip fit on s13 sharknose bumper?
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Old 04-26-2013, 01:45 PM   #13558
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Hello fellow Zilvians. Quick question for ya.

Any ideas on why my coilovers squeak (on one side) when turning??

I'm pretty sure it has something to do the preload on my coilovers. Which i've been told by some should be zero, than others tell me i should use one coilover wrench (spanner wrench??) width of preload.

Any suggestions? Thanks, I appreciate it
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Old 04-26-2013, 01:55 PM   #13559
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zombiewolf513 View Post
Upgrade whatever you want. If you so low that you get a lot of bumpsteer, get roll-center adjustable tie rod ends.
SPl makes great outer tie rod ends with adjustable bumpster inserts.

you will have to get 300zx inner tie rod ends for these to work however.
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Old 04-26-2013, 03:16 PM   #13560
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EnemyS15 View Post
Bad ass hood for cars with some power underneath, needing some serious air flow. I went hunting around on the webs to possibly buy this hood and the cheapest I found this hood for is 1400 USD and shipping to FL via "ocean" was 821. As functional and pretty neat looking as it is, I can't justify spending 2k for a hood. A damn shame!
Ahh sure you can...

Reason: It's rare and I want it.

There.

lol..!

You just gotta keep saving, that's how I see it. But if that lip is going to interfere with windshield washer nozzles, I'll have to consider a different one. I swear I saw that their red demo car had washer nozzles...
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