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Old 07-16-2010, 09:26 PM   #1291
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do you guys mod the LCAs along with the knuckles when you pay the 550?
$550 is removal of oem parts, mod knuckles and lca with MAX SAK, install parts and toe alignment with tie rod angle spacers. All day job.
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In addition to ^^^, could you press in new ball joints if we send them with the arms?
I really hate doing that, we have a press but no tooling to make it easy. If you are just going to get stock equivalent replacement (moog etc.) joints, I would prefer you get 100% new stock replacement lca's from eBay.
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Old 07-17-2010, 12:07 AM   #1292
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oh damn... thats pretty legit then! ill be down there within the next few weeks then. i need to make an appointment right? and if i drive down when you guys open would i be able to drive it back home by the time you close? lol
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Old 07-17-2010, 01:04 AM   #1293
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Yes that will work, were open 10:30-5:30 mon-fri, need to schedule it
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Old 07-17-2010, 06:50 AM   #1294
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So how much for the rear knuckles then?
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Old 07-17-2010, 09:31 PM   #1295
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He said he is not sure yet, they stilll need to be tested and what not...
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Old 07-26-2010, 12:48 AM   #1296
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Why has this thread died?

something to think about:

a friend of mine decided to mod his knuckles.

all he did was fuck with ackerman, and gave him self a little more angle, he wishes he wouldve made them a little shorter but anyway.

he gave himself 0 ackerman and he is running a ka24de.

i watched him drive at the last event and the car totally follows the front, it looked amazing.

and he said there was no problem as far as not enough power, he was actually able to hold things out a little more than normal imo.

soo to the 0 ackerman being to intense for low powered cars i think is a myth, car felt great.
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Old 07-26-2010, 06:22 AM   #1297
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any video of this? I would like to maybe start reviewing videos of cars using diff knuckles, maybe try and disect how each is diff.
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Old 07-26-2010, 09:21 AM   #1298
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nieko View Post
Why has this thread died?

something to think about:

a friend of mine decided to mod his knuckles.

all he did was fuck with ackerman, and gave him self a little more angle, he wishes he wouldve made them a little shorter but anyway.

he gave himself 0 ackerman and he is running a ka24de.

i watched him drive at the last event and the car totally follows the front, it looked amazing.

and he said there was no problem as far as not enough power, he was actually able to hold things out a little more than normal imo.

soo to the 0 ackerman being to intense for low powered cars i think is a myth, car felt great.
Who said that?

Having zero acerkman reduces tire scrub during a drift, so I don't see how it matters how much power you have. If anything, a lower HP car needs less front tire scrub than a higher HP car that can make up for the scrub somewhat by putting down the power.
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Old 07-26-2010, 09:44 AM   #1299
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what do you mean by tire scrub?
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Old 07-26-2010, 10:19 AM   #1300
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How the trailing tire (in drift) doesn't turn at the angle that the leading tire is steering the car, therefore scrubbing. Zero ackerman eliminates this by making both tires turn the same angle.
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Old 07-26-2010, 11:43 AM   #1301
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Okay so here Power's follow wheel is def not neg, so would this mean the tire is scrubbing? Which i would imagine at the high/faster entries of FD u would need the scrubbing so u could slow down after high speed entries?





am i on the right track with this?
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Old 07-26-2010, 04:32 PM   #1302
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Yes. You can see that his ackerman is reduced, but not quite eliminated.

It depends on the scrubbing speed thing. You can always use the brakes. Four-wheel lockups Tanner Foust style.

And if you're coming in backwards, there will be tire scrub no matter what you do. That's part of the art.
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Old 07-26-2010, 04:51 PM   #1303
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I think when Dan was talking about having too much ackerman reduction, he was refferring to how the rack could over-center from too much angle and that it is easier to compensate for this with a higher hp car. Front tire scrubbing is not retained for slowing the car down, I think that is just a side effect from drifting that some drivers may use to help themselves in certain situations.
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Old 07-26-2010, 04:52 PM   #1304
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From page 47
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Originally Posted by DC Dan MAX USA View Post
Theory with zero ackerman is that with tons of power you could carry your drift along a straight section very far with good front traction and in various corners you have the power to easily steer with the rear as both front tires track together, But if you did not have the power to sustain such a long high speed drift then its usefullness is limited and side effects would compromise the grip on a low power car. For most drifters, a conservative reduction in ackerman is more appropriate. The MAX Super Angle kit has adjustable ackerman depending upon the knuckle extension installation position.
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Who said that?
Having zero acerkman reduces tire scrub during a drift, so I don't see how it matters how much power you have. If anything, a lower HP car needs less front tire scrub than a higher HP car that can make up for the scrub somewhat by putting down the power.
The earliest person that I know of who first applied this theory to professional drifting and aftermarket parts success is Daigo Saito & Hey Man products (D1GP Red 800PS Chaser) I'll see if I have time to scan the Drift tengoku feature that shows Daigo's parts, and there is two other companies featured following the same path in the article.

I believe Daigo, basically because it makes sense that the high power car needs all the front traction it can get at full lock because of the speed the car is capable of maintaining a drift. I dont think you want to be dragging a front tire along at 80mph+ drifting but its perfectly ok in a second gear drift. The high power car is only ever a second away from hitting full lock or initiating a drift session with a flick of the throttle. You can apply any suspension setting to any car but there is tradeoffs. Like on low power car you need a lot of grip ability through one section of the track to build enough speed to initiate and carry you through the drift turns so you would not want to be understeering low speed turns because of zero ackerman on a 200HP car while trying to build up for your big initiation.
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Old 07-26-2010, 04:55 PM   #1305
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Man, I wish this would have came up like 2 day's ago when I saw Daigo last. I guess I can ask Shinji (Hey Man) tonight or something what they did for Daigo's set-up...
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Old 07-26-2010, 05:44 PM   #1306
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Old 07-26-2010, 05:51 PM   #1307
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Quote:
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Who said that?

Having zero acerkman reduces tire scrub during a drift, so I don't see how it matters how much power you have. If anything, a lower HP car needs less front tire scrub than a higher HP car that can make up for the scrub somewhat by putting down the power.
Dan said that....

but i guess what he meant was, you wont be able to grip the turn before the initation so you will need all the power you can right after the turn to initiate at the appropriate speed.

but i was only talking about drifting.

i could only see less ackerman helping an underpowered car. lol
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Old 07-26-2010, 05:52 PM   #1308
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Old 07-26-2010, 06:01 PM   #1309
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You can apply any suspension setting to any car but there is tradeoffs.
Very very true. I just wanted to highlight this, as there seems to be a bit too much "what's the magic setting for all situations" creeping into this thread. There is definitely a give and take. Zero ackerman is going to help you at higher speed drifts at mad angle, but at lower speed the car is going to turn-in like a horse and buggy since you're going to have so much scrub at mild angles when the front is still "gripping."
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Old 07-26-2010, 06:21 PM   #1310
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So maybe we should be making ackerman changes based more on the type of drifting bein done as opposed to the power of the car then?
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Old 07-26-2010, 06:33 PM   #1311
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Ackerman angle and power relationship from sept. 2008 DT page 26-27

Daigo Saito & Hey Man products (D1GP Red 800PS Chaser) offers several levels of angle and ackerman shown on the top of page two. Left part is OEM, second is a street drift, third is the 600HP car, and on the right is the 800HP D1 spec. Each one has a little less ackerman (never gets to zero) and a shorter steering arm for more angle and quicker steering.

Someone is going to ask why this chaser applicable to our cars. I would say its because both cars have the same setup where the steering rack is located behind the knuckle.


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Old 07-26-2010, 06:43 PM   #1312
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Good post sir.

i wish our steering knuckles were that instantly simple to change out haha
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Old 07-26-2010, 07:52 PM   #1313
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It's funny, the simplier knuckle design (jzx over s-chassis) actually costs more money to have modified.

On a side not, I am still baffled as to why Shinji (Hey Man) does not like the design of the PSM knuckles and how PSM refrences Hey Man Products a lot. Part of me wonders if I was wrong in choosing the Max knuckles over the Hey Man knuckles...but I guess I'm being somewhat of a test rat...
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Old 07-26-2010, 11:13 PM   #1314
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Control arm update....

Finally cut off that bump stop thing and got the new misalignment spacers put in all around. The front will be corrected ~14mms more then the rear - but I have the subframe risers in the back as well.

Front:


Distance between knuckle and top of spherical bearing:


Rear:


Distance between spindle and top of spherical bearing:



My new tie rod end bolts in comparison to the shanks I'm using for the LCAs (5/8X6"):
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Old 07-27-2010, 12:13 AM   #1315
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Nice, we've been working on some new lca's with different roll center adjustable rod ends too.

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Old 07-27-2010, 12:49 AM   #1316
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Integrated tension rod? Nice
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Old 07-27-2010, 01:37 AM   #1317
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Reminds me of the Ikeya Formula and 326 Power FLCAs.
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Old 07-27-2010, 10:30 AM   #1318
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Yeah, but they'll be available in the states, I'm sure a better price, and that rear arm is not only stronger, but more aerodynamic.

Dan, the only thing that is missing is a rear sway bar hole?
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Old 07-27-2010, 11:32 AM   #1319
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Old 07-27-2010, 02:26 PM   #1320
DC Dan MAX USA
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Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: San Diego
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PoorMans180SX View Post
Dan, the only thing that is missing is a rear sway bar hole?
Good eyes. Yes, missing on that particular drawing, but we've got it covered.
Making the proto parts as we speak.
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