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Chat General Discussion About The Nissan 240SX and Nissan Z Cars |
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04-25-2010, 12:54 AM | #1264 |
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[quote=isimon91;3410370]Does the KA oil pan sit below the stock sway bar at all ?[/quote
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04-25-2010, 11:30 AM | #1266 | ||
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Quote:
no. no. [quote=isimon91;3410469] Quote:
don't you have eyes? can't you lay down and peek under your car and check? or jack it up and then look? they sit on the same level, the subframe brace is right before the oil pan and the sway bar, due to its thickness, sits slightly under that. so your bar will scrape before your pan does... scrape order -- sway bar, subframe brace, oil pan,,,,,,,, exhaust. |
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04-25-2010, 11:32 AM | #1267 | |
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^^That is correct, but for factory height.
[QUOTE=isimon91;3410469] Quote:
Its 1030am on a Sunday. People sleeping in or going to church dude. |
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04-25-2010, 06:21 PM | #1269 | |
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[quote=xpertsnowcarver;3410828]^^That is correct, but for factory height.
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------------------------------------------------------------------------ my own question: i know this has been discussed before, but whats a good brand for aftermarket bumper turn signals? i just got a bumper with the square cut outs for the position lamps but i want turn signals more, idgaf about position lamps... |
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04-25-2010, 06:56 PM | #1270 | |
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I know this from first hand experience. I had my S13 on Tein S. Tech springs and stock struts. I framed the car going through a dip. My tension rod braces and stock sway bar too 100% of the damage. It was pretty bad. Refer to this picture. Here you can see a black stock sway bar just behind the Nismo Power Brace. You can see where is scraped. The car is raised off of the ground, so, when I drop it back down on the floor, the sway bar will also move closer to the floor by about 3/4"-1". Here is a picture of the pivot point on the frame rail and the link to the FLCA (front lower control arm). As you can figure, when you lower the car, the FLCA will move up, causing the link to move up. With the pivot point where it is, this motion will cause the section of the sway bar near the oil pan to drop down. Last edited by xpertsnowcarver; 04-26-2010 at 10:58 AM.. |
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04-26-2010, 10:28 AM | #1274 | |
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Quote:
there was some slight modification needed to one(i believe3 it was only one) of the mounting points...but it DID work and didnt take long.
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04-26-2010, 10:59 AM | #1275 |
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Yes
You couldn't just say yes? |
04-26-2010, 03:15 PM | #1276 | |
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would u happen to know a good way to inspect my shocks? i hit a curb (not very steep but still) in the rain and i don't know if it was just cus i was a little shook up or the car but it felt like the suspension was more bouncy. i had a feeling i blew a shock, besides bouncing and leaks what would be a good way to check? i have stance gr+ with not even 1 month on them so i hihgly doubt they would blow but you never know |
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04-26-2010, 03:24 PM | #1277 |
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Your shocks wouldn't need inspecting. You should check for bent links or blown bushings. Tension rods usually suffer the most, which is why I replaced mine, including the FLCA. I eventually purchased new tie rods as well.
Once shocks are blown, they're blown. You'll need to purchase new ones. I have yet to purchase a skid plate as well. |
04-26-2010, 05:02 PM | #1278 |
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at what point is it deemed neccessary to replace the Nismo Clutch Pivot Ball behind the fork in the transmission?
i asked due to the fact that, currently, my transmission is out, and im replacing a bunch of stuff for it...and if its neccessary to change mine out...cars max output id say will be roughly 250hp, if that... using a stage 2 clutch... i figured id just say F it and get an SPL model since its currently not in back order and its the only thing stopping me from putting my transmission back together...
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04-26-2010, 08:44 PM | #1280 |
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I swear...this car is really testing my patience 92 Coupe SE....here is the deal.....car has gone through 3 injectors..ALL on the first cylinder....car has new plugs/fuel filter previous to all this shit happening. The car has not seen a full tank of gas iin a while due to me just NOW being able to get a job..i ran the car today really low on gas until the light came on.. It gets Shell 93..all the time...first time was a stuck closed injector..second time was a stuck OPEN injector...got in tonight and car was skipping and backfiring and cutting up. I smelled fuel on the inside of the car and i could hear the fuel pump whining/humming..and car sounds like a WRX with a shaking idle when stopped....it has effected ONLY the first cylinder....any suggestions? Did a compression check on the first cylinder ant it was 150...i am stumped..
Forgot to mention car does have leaky valve seals..but oil is kept up. Last edited by TonyToniTuna; 04-26-2010 at 09:18 PM.. |
04-26-2010, 09:51 PM | #1281 | |
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Yes |
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04-26-2010, 11:27 PM | #1282 |
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im using an R32 crossmember for RB swap
now, you know that hard line on S13 crossmember that goes on the rack and pinion. well it doesnt fit on the R32 crossmember. whats the point of that thing going around the crossmember? can i just cut the line shorter instead of it going around the crossmember? |
04-27-2010, 03:17 AM | #1283 |
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hey everyone,
I have a problem with my s14 front driver side suspension . The car had the damage when I bought the car. I dont know if the problem is the knuckle, the hub, or the coilover is bent. I bought a set of 20mm spacers thinking it was the problem but I bolted them on and the tire still rubs the coilover. I just so happen to install the spacer on the passenger side and it has about a inch between the coilover and tire. Any help is great. here is the damaged side with a 20mm spacer and here is the passenger side that isnt damaged. dont mind the tire on this side it was the tire that was on the driver side when i got the car. The tire popped due to the rubbing on the coilover. here is a pic of the front suspension with the brakes removed I can take new pics if needed in the morning. thanks again |
04-27-2010, 08:46 AM | #1284 | |
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Quote:
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04-27-2010, 09:37 AM | #1285 | ||
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Quote:
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- The two bolts that hold the coilover boot to the knuckle have some kind of play - The part of the knuckle to your coilover is bent - The coilover itself or the boot is bent - The spindle is bent upwards. I'm assuming that your tire is installed correctly and not an angle. I'm also assuming that the coilovers are correct for your vehicle. The coilover boot between the S13 and S14 is different. Nice. I've been wanting to get that clutch kit too. |
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04-27-2010, 09:41 AM | #1286 |
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relocated my battery to the trunk, i wrapped the hell out of the main wire with rubber tubbing and but i still want to put inline fuse just incase. where should i put the fuse and what amp fuse should i use ?
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04-27-2010, 10:00 AM | #1287 |
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^^Put the fuse right next to the battery. I recommend no bigger than 100A and no less than 80A because the biggest fuse in your car is a 75A for the starter, and there really isn't a time where you can run enough circuits to consume more than 80A at once. Keep in mind that, even though you see fuses rated for 75A, 30A, 15A etc, it doesn't mean that's how much current that circuit consumes.
****Correction**** When running a sound system amplifier, you would give it its own high amp fuse, which should also be close to the battery. Last edited by xpertsnowcarver; 04-27-2010 at 10:47 AM.. |
04-27-2010, 10:21 AM | #1288 |
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you wouldnt happen to know the max hp that coppermix can handle do you?
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04-27-2010, 10:24 AM | #1289 | |
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04-27-2010, 10:40 AM | #1290 | |
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NISMO | SUPER COPPERMIX |
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180sx type x kouki, 1jz, 2jz, 300zx, clutch, faq, ka24de, n/a, non-turbo, question, redtop s13 180sx silvia, s14, search, solenoid, starter, z32, zenki |
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