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Old 11-19-2012, 08:26 AM   #12061
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Originally Posted by smoked240 View Post
From the looks of it, All three ports looked flared. What makes you say they shouldn't be? Flaring helps seal the line to the Master cylinder.
From my understanding the middle port on z32 bcm doesnt come flared but after taking the alen bolt noticed that looks the same than the others.so was confused for a second and wanted to confirm before start bleeding the system.
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Old 11-19-2012, 08:41 AM   #12062
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None of the ports are flared. The brake lines are supposed to be flared. Which they all are. They came that way. Only thing that should be flared is the middle BRAKE LINE if your BMC did not have the third fitting to accept the stock flare on your brake line.

Long story short your BMC has all you need. Bolt that bitch up
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No because I don't want to do another 5 lug conversion.
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Old 11-19-2012, 11:51 PM   #12063
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Thanks for the help. Next questions ate cody ace a/c brackets still for sale. Ive been trying.to get in touch with him but.havent.got.any answers at all
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Old 11-20-2012, 11:58 AM   #12064
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Quote:
Originally Posted by silviaNC View Post
From my understanding the middle port on z32 bcm doesnt come flared but after taking the alen bolt noticed that looks the same than the others.so was confused for a second and wanted to confirm before start bleeding the system.
Most do not have the mid port flared ,yours does I have the same one. Here's a picture of a MC that doesn't come flared being "retrofitted" with the flared tip from an S13




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Thanks for the help. Next questions ate cody ace a/c brackets still for sale. Ive been trying.to get in touch with him but.havent.got.any answers at all
PM him if he doesn't reply try this
Contact CodyAce SR20 Air Conditioning Bracket
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Old 11-20-2012, 02:38 PM   #12065
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someone broke into my glove box and broke off the handle piece and the glove compartment is still in one piece. so i was wondering if i could get the handle for it somehow or do i need to replace the whole glove compartment
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Old 11-20-2012, 04:41 PM   #12066
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Thanks for the help. Next questions ate cody ace a/c brackets still for sale. Ive been trying.to get in touch with him but.havent.got.any answers at all
They are all in stock and ready to ship asap Sorry about that too!
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Old 11-20-2012, 07:46 PM   #12067
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When cutting out my rear guards I went ahead and cut out the rear inner wheel wells ,so now you can see the wheels from inside the car ,anyways I cut off a bit of the metal that wraps around coilover/ shock tower ,not a lot just enough to flatten out the round part like the rest of the well .everything seems fine but did i weaken / lead to bending or warping over time of that shock tower .ill post a pic if it helps ,thanks
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Old 11-21-2012, 01:15 PM   #12068
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Sooooo I'm in the market for lug nuts and I'm trying to make my mind up.

I have extended arp studs in M12x1.50 pitch.

So I need extended, open-ended lug nuts. But I also want lock nuts too.

Any recommendations? I was looking at the WORK RS-R lug nuts. Any experience with them?
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Old 11-21-2012, 01:49 PM   #12069
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would porting and polishing my headers on my NA ka24de make a difference in power???
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Old 11-21-2012, 02:02 PM   #12070
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Hey, so I'm looking at some 5zigen rims 17x7. My question is... I love 17's on the 240, but would the 7 width be too small for that large of a rim? If so what's a good size? I'm not looking to go too hella flush. Just to look good. Thanks.
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Old 11-21-2012, 02:05 PM   #12071
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Quote:
Originally Posted by delado View Post
Sooooo I'm in the market for lug nuts and I'm trying to make my mind up.

I have extended arp studs in M12x1.50 pitch.

So I need extended, open-ended lug nuts. But I also want lock nuts too.

Any recommendations? I was looking at the WORK RS-R lug nuts. Any experience with them?
they could be either open- or close-ended as long as they're extended. Never used the work ones myself but i have a set of rays duraluminum. They're very light but also prone to damage due to that they're made of aluminum. You have to be careful while tightening them in and out. Make sure NOT to use the airgun and only do it by hand to prevent damage.

If you track your car a lot and have to change your wheels often, i recommend the steel ones instead since they're much stronger and more durable.
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Old 11-21-2012, 02:09 PM   #12072
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mywhite240sx View Post
Hey, so I'm looking at some 5zigen rims 17x7. My question is... I love 17's on the 240, but would the 7 width be too small for that large of a rim? If so what's a good size? I'm not looking to go too hella flush. Just to look good. Thanks.
I would do at least 8" in the front and 9" in the rear for better performance ad wll as the look. Offset is more of a concern when selecting wheels. 20-30mm offset should be sufficient for you if you don't want hellaflush look or to modify your fenders.

There are plenty of fitment threads out there for you to leark around.
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Old 11-21-2012, 06:26 PM   #12073
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Originally Posted by 1gr8bar10der View Post
I would do at least 8" in the front and 9" in the rear for better performance ad wll as the look. Offset is more of a concern when selecting wheels. 20-30mm offset should be sufficient for you if you don't want hellaflush look or to modify your fenders.

There are plenty of fitment threads out there for you to leark around.
Thanks! That's exactly what I was looking for haha
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Old 11-21-2012, 08:27 PM   #12074
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could anyone put a price tag on this rb26 ecu ? ballpark

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Old 11-22-2012, 08:02 AM   #12075
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Quote:
Originally Posted by delado View Post
Sooooo I'm in the market for lug nuts and I'm trying to make my mind up.

I have extended arp studs in M12x1.50 pitch.

So I need extended, open-ended lug nuts. But I also want lock nuts too.

Any recommendations? I was looking at the WORK RS-R lug nuts. Any experience with them?
I have Muteki's. Pretty much all the open long tuner lugs are the same, forged aluminum. Hand on and off, no air gun, and only 85'# of torque BY HAND. If you take your wheels off and on a lot, and do it by hand, no problem.
If you want speed, hardcore reliability and want to use a gun, get American made racing lugs at Summit Racing made of tool/forged steel...then you can air gun all you like and replace studs instead of lug nuts...and yes, I get ya, those tuner lug nuts are hella high on price, but they do look nice
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Old 11-22-2012, 08:05 AM   #12076
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So there is a new goodie coming from RS Enthalpy for S14's with NA/KA's... 3" S13 AFM to give better intake and reading performance for the tune(the little black box behind the air filter)...waiting for Friday!
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Old 11-22-2012, 09:09 AM   #12077
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So...tonight i filled up on fuel and went to tighten my gas cap and it clicked once and started spinning freely. Tried taking it off with no luck. How would i go about removing it or am i screwed lol.
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Old 11-22-2012, 06:42 PM   #12078
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crucial question here:

in relation to the harness behind the dash, are there any differences between the 95 and 96 model S14's?
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Old 11-22-2012, 08:08 PM   #12079
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jacobi13 View Post
would porting and polishing my headers on my NA ka24de make a difference in power???
Mild port matching helps, but it will yield minimal to no measruable peak gains on manifolds.

Quote:
Originally Posted by delado View Post
Sooooo I'm in the market for lug nuts and I'm trying to make my mind up.

I have extended arp studs in M12x1.50 pitch.

So I need extended, open-ended lug nuts. But I also want lock nuts too.

Any recommendations? I was looking at the WORK RS-R lug nuts. Any experience with them?

As stated a few times above, you need to look at your application and usage. If the wheels are going to come of more than 2x a year, i'd opt for steel lugnuts.


With that said, I'm on the same Carquest lugnuts since day one. Wheels have been off countless times, with multiple air guns and sockets. ZERO issues. Sure they aren't fancy shiney purply colors, but they work, and don't fall off when I'm cranking 5th gear at the top of the esses at Watkins Glen.

I know it may not score modification or JDM points, but I'd rather my wheels stay on...and not worry about their color or lightness.

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Originally Posted by Mywhite240sx View Post
Hey, so I'm looking at some 5zigen rims 17x7. My question is... I love 17's on the 240, but would the 7 width be too small for that large of a rim? If so what's a good size? I'm not looking to go too hella flush. Just to look good. Thanks.
7" is way too small. 8" on s13 up front at minimum.

Quote:
Originally Posted by I'm Redline View Post
I have Muteki's. Pretty much all the open long tuner lugs are the same, forged aluminum. Hand on and off, no air gun, and only 85'# of torque BY HAND. If you take your wheels off and on a lot, and do it by hand, no problem.
If you want speed, hardcore reliability and want to use a gun, get American made racing lugs at Summit Racing made of tool/forged steel...then you can air gun all you like and replace studs instead of lug nuts...and yes, I get ya, those tuner lug nuts are hella high on price, but they do look nice
I've always found it funny how the less reliable pretty lugnuts cost 4x the cheap reliable ones.

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Originally Posted by blksylv View Post
So...tonight i filled up on fuel and went to tighten my gas cap and it clicked once and started spinning freely. Tried taking it off with no luck. How would i go about removing it or am i screwed lol.
Take a small pry bar/screwdriver under the cap and unscrew. Should help.
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Old 11-23-2012, 02:03 AM   #12080
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anyone know the ID and OD of the bearing in their camber plates? specifically megan racing camber plates?

looking to replace mine but I cant find a write up or detailed info on which bearing to use...
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Old 11-23-2012, 08:39 AM   #12081
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jacobi13 View Post
would porting and polishing my headers on my NA ka24de make a difference in power???
Port matching gasket surfaces(gasket to intake, gasket to head, head to gasket, gasket to header) move things smoother through the engine. This translates to not a big horsepower gain(you may get 3% - 5%) but to the low, and mid range power delivery. If you were to make a dyno pull, you would notice less of a dip in the 2000 - 3500 rpm range, higher mid range numbers, and a smoother torque curve.
Polishing(the above is the 'Porting') allows the work done in porting to remain smooth through the motor, or cause swirl where it is needed. It also allows better, more even detonation free fuel burn in the combustion chamber(IMPORTANT HERE) by removing the casting marks, and machine marks from the head, this process smooths out the combustion chamber allowing the fuel to burn fully, and faster. This causes better power delivery, and also stops detonation in higher compression motors running crap gas.

Answering your question, YES. The hp numbers won't be huge, but maybe 1 or 3 here and there across the range, and torque numbers will broaden and smooth out. The BEST RESULT, though, will be the way the motor performs and runs. These processes smooth out the motor causing less vibration which translates to free power, better mileage, and performance and QUALITATIVE feel

This operation takes time and money, but is well worth it in the end when reliability is desired
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Old 11-23-2012, 08:44 AM   #12082
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Quote:
Originally Posted by E Double View Post
crucial question here:

in relation to the harness behind the dash, are there any differences between the 95 and 96 model S14's?
Yes, and No. Many of the parts are interchangeable, some are the same, and a few are different. 95 = OBD I, 96 = OBD II, but the chassis, lighting, and common wiring is the same. Engine Management is not.(Shorty and I were looking at all this last weekend)
The wire diagrams for a 95 and a 96 are different, and systems are on different pages, but many of the pages, although numbered differently have the same information with the exception of OBD I, and OBD II information.
If you have a 96 that was manufactured pre run(before April 95) you will have OBD I and the same diagrams for a 95 will apply. If you have a 96 made after April 95, you will require the OBD II wire diagrams.
NICO has all of them
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Old 11-23-2012, 09:55 AM   #12083
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My friend has a SR20DE of a S14 but he for a everything for it but not the wiring harness, what kind of harness would I need to us this motor on my 93 S13. Also would it handle boost if I decide to run boost on the motor?
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Old 11-23-2012, 10:09 AM   #12084
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anyone know where i could get a naturally aspirated rb25/rb26
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Old 11-23-2012, 10:43 AM   #12085
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Quote:
Originally Posted by I'm Redline View Post
Yes, and No. Many of the parts are interchangeable, some are the same, and a few are different. 95 = OBD I, 96 = OBD II, but the chassis, lighting, and common wiring is the same. Engine Management is not.(Shorty and I were looking at all this last weekend)
The wire diagrams for a 95 and a 96 are different, and systems are on different pages, but many of the pages, although numbered differently have the same information with the exception of OBD I, and OBD II information.
If you have a 96 that was manufactured pre run(before April 95) you will have OBD I and the same diagrams for a 95 will apply. If you have a 96 made after April 95, you will require the OBD II wire diagrams.
NICO has all of them
hmmm, thanks for that info. i'll have to see what year the 96 was manufactured. the only reason i ask is because a guy is thinking about trading his 96 for my 95. his dash is cracked and mine is not, so i was going to be swapping dashes. his car also had some wiring issues under the dash that caused some wires to melt. i was thinking while i have the dash off i can just take the wiring harness from my 95 and throw it in the 96 to alleviate an future issues. i dont really care if i lose the OBD2 port cuz im going to be dropping in a 1JZ motor and will have to get the car smogged in a "special" way anyways. i was just wondering if everything else on the harness was the same aside from the OBD2 port wiring.
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Old 11-23-2012, 01:26 PM   #12086
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i know there are two types of crown vic meshies. and im gonna go 5lug soon and will be getting these. can anyone tell me the sizes. i searched and only found the 16x7 +6 is there another size thats bigger with better offset? thanks zilvia. oh and pics will be nice too.
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Old 11-23-2012, 02:24 PM   #12087
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hey guys im wondering how i can connect my EXTERNAL wastegate .. okay i understand that wastegate has a nipple to boost controller, and a vaccum/vent nipple.. my turbo doesnt have a nipple to connect the "pressure hose.. can i jus connect or split a t on my hose that goes to my gauge or BOV? my pipingdoesnt have a nipple either.. please help me outt !! )
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Old 11-23-2012, 05:03 PM   #12088
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Can any1 tell me the size and length of the adjusting bolt for the AC compressor?
For S14.
Thanks in advance.
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Old 11-23-2012, 06:20 PM   #12089
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Looking at my s13 harness and i don't see a battery power wire anywhere, can someone send me a picture of where it is on the harness?
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2700 for a non running crashed up car. sounds like a steal.
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Old 11-24-2012, 02:18 AM   #12090
Hanz41
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could anybody please tell me what front bumper this is? I will be getting a front bumper for my s13.5 over winter and I like this one alot. I have origin stylish sides and rear so I feel it will flow fine with the origin aero... thanks for the help, I appreciate it!

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