** drag zilvians chime in**

[Tom N]

Anyone done any testing with positive camber in the rear to help the car squat more onto a flat tire at launch?

[Whitesil80315]

I'm currently running +.5 rear camber

[Tom N]

Originally Posted by Whitesil80315

I'm currently running +.5 rear camber

Happen to test running any more + camber than .5?
What 60fts do you pull?

[Seraphim38]

I am at about -1.3 in the rear right now and have been seriously considering going to 0 or even plus 0.5. I definitely felt the difference between plus 2 and 1.5, and then to 1.3, as it sits now.

Sent from my SGH-T999 using Tapatalk

[Tom N]

Originally Posted by Seraphim38

I am at about -1.3 in the rear right now and have been seriously considering going to 0 or even plus 0.5. I definitely felt the difference between plus 2 and 1.5, and then to 1.3, as it sits now.

Sent from my SGH-T999 using Tapatalk

If you're trying hook you don't want to run negative camber.

[Seraphim38]

I am definitely wanting to hook. I play this game with my boost controller...I turn it down so I can have a slight hope of hooking second geae on the street and then the slow spool irritates me, and then I turn it back up and it spins up too fast... instant tire spin. I guess I gotta go back to the alignment shop.

Sent from my SGH-T999 using Tapatalk

[Sforteen]

Originally Posted by Seraphim38

I am definitely wanting to hook. I play this game with my boost controller...I turn it down so I can have a slight hope of hooking second geae on the street and then the slow spool irritates me, and then I turn it back up and it spins up too fast... instant tire spin. I guess I gotta go back to the alignment shop.

Sent from my SGH-T999 using Tapatalk

how much power are you making and what tires/wheels you running

[jr_ss]

Originally Posted by Sforteen

how much power are you making and what tires/wheels you running

He's making north of 450 and has a 305. He needs to start running a radial on the street vs trying to get his street tires to hook for him. Taking some of the negative camber out will help him, but ultimately he needs stickier tires. He can do a boost by gear setup that will make him faster, but I'm not sure what EMS he has, if any.

[Whitesil80315]

As for me running the +.5. If I stay with the strut and spring set up I might run a bit more to compensate for suspension compression but if I finally save up for drag coilovers ill probably keep it the same.

Current 60fts are 1.6s with low boost launch control and just enough wheel spin. I'd like to get into the 1.5s this season

[Tom N]

Originally Posted by Whitesil80315

As for me running the +.5. If I stay with the strut and spring set up I might run a bit more to compensate for suspension compression but if I finally save up for drag coilovers ill probably keep it the same.

Current 60fts are 1.6s with low boost launch control and just enough wheel spin. I'd like to get into the 1.5s this season

What tires and suspension you currently running that's getting 1.6's

[Whitesil80315]

Currently running tokico d-spec struts with race engineering lowering springs. Tires are 26x9.6x15 hoosier quick time pros

[Sforteen]

Originally Posted by jr_ss

He's making north of 450 and has a 305. He needs to start running a radial on the street vs trying to get his street tires to hook for him. Taking some of the negative camber out will help him, but ultimately he needs stickier tires. He can do a boost by gear setup that will make him faster, but I'm not sure what EMS he has, if any.

i make about the same power probably around 480whp.. i dead hook first gear on 275 radial mickeys.. that was with a 4.63 gear ratio as well.

[Tom N]

Originally Posted by Sforteen

i make about the same power probably around 480whp.. i dead hook first gear on 275 radial mickeys.. that was with a 4.63 gear ratio as well.

What constitute dead hooks? What 60ft exactly.
What suspension do you use?

[Sforteen]

Originally Posted by Tom N

What constitute dead hooks? What 60ft exactly.
What suspension do you use?

Im on Tein flex coilovers

when i say dead hook i mean it doesn't spin at all, in fact everytime ive tryed launching the car at the track its hooked hard enough to either bog or break an axle, it doesn't spin on the street at all either.. pretty amazing actually as it spun 3rd gear from a roll with the previous 275 35 18's

[Seraphim38]

I am north of 460rwhp and am running 315/35/17 Nitto NT05s.

I have a manifold air pressure-baseed Powere FC. At the time, all the best SRs in the NW that were running EMS standalones were having problems so I figured that a Power FC would be fine. It wasn't a decision based on cost; I purchased the Power FC brand new with all new sensors and a new wiring harness.

Knowing what I know now, I wish I had bought an EMSv2 so that I could use the boost settings for each gear, as well as an RPM based window switch that I could use for running a nitrous hit for faster spool between 3k and 4500 rpm.

However, I haven't been convinced that the difference would be work an additional $2 grand of investment for a new EMS with tuning.

And no, I haven't elected to run a drag radial because I live near Seattle, where it does rain a lot and it is sub 40 degrees outside right now. My car is my daily driver and I think drag radials on a daily driver in Seattle isn't a spectacular idea.

Next summer, I think at least a set of 275/15 or wider drag radials (Hoosier QTP, M&H, ET Streets) are in my future.

[B92PPEARL240]

Trying to finish up my q45 swap anyone have any idea other than the dealer were I can get the 300zx tt driver axle none of our local distributors have it available and the dealer wants 650 or so for it....

[zurud]

Have you check autozone or any auto parts store? Probably ebay?

[Sforteen]

Originally Posted by Seraphim38

I am north of 460rwhp and am running 315/35/17 Nitto NT05s.

I have a manifold air pressure-baseed Powere FC. At the time, all the best SRs in the NW that were running EMS standalones were having problems so I figured that a Power FC would be fine. It wasn't a decision based on cost; I purchased the Power FC brand new with all new sensors and a new wiring harness.

Knowing what I know now, I wish I had bought an EMSv2 so that I could use the boost settings for each gear, as well as an RPM based window switch that I could use for running a nitrous hit for faster spool between 3k and 4500 rpm.

However, I haven't been convinced that the difference would be work an additional $2 grand of investment for a new EMS with tuning.

And no, I haven't elected to run a drag radial because I live near Seattle, where it does rain a lot and it is sub 40 degrees outside right now. My car is my daily driver and I think drag radials on a daily driver in Seattle isn't a spectacular idea.

Next summer, I think at least a set of 275/15 or wider drag radials (Hoosier QTP, M&H, ET Streets) are in my future.

15 inch wheel will offer much more traction, i live in Seattle as well, i run drag radials all the time on the street, however my car doesn't see rain.

[Fuego]

Went back out friday night. Still had the Federals on so I brought them down to 20psi to combat the tire spin... ran into a ton of wheel hop in the burnout and kept bogging out of the hole. I can't win.

[whereda40at]

I was on e/t streets 275/50/15 with 14 psi in them. I had import intelligence perfect launch control and left off the line at 11 psi with 380hp and 385 tq. I would always either dead hook or bog. I cut 1.5 every time and cut a 1.48 once and lifted the wheels another time but the axel broke right before I shifted into second so I didn't get my time slip. That felt all of a low 1.4 or high 1.3. It was a great feeling. I have it on video too on youtube. That was with completely stock shocks and springs front and rear at 0 camber.

[Tom N]

Originally Posted by whereda40at

I was on e/t streets 275/50/15 with 14 psi in them. I had import intelligence perfect launch control and left off the line at 11 psi with 380hp and 385 tq. I would always either dead hook or bog. I cut 1.5 every time and cut a 1.48 once and lifted the wheels another time but the axel broke right before I shifted into second so I didn't get my time slip. That felt all of a low 1.4 or high 1.3. It was a great feeling. I have it on video too on youtube. That was with completely stock shocks and springs front and rear at 0 camber.

What did the car weight?

[whereda40at]

Originally Posted by Tom N

What did the car weight?

2400 with me in it and a half tank of gas. I weigh 150. The car had nothing in it but 2 seats, a dash, console and door panels. I took all sound deadening out, all radio/audio, cut out supports in the doors and hatch, removed anything that didn't make the car go fast. Wiper assembly, headlight motors, front and read bumpers, cut holes in the rear bumper to reduce drag.

The difference in my 1.52 11.2 run from my 1.48 10.79 was removing rear bumper, cutting 2 big squares out to reduce drag and it was 40 degrees cooler out. Same tire pressure, same launch rpm, same burn out time, same boost, same tune.

[Tom N]

Originally Posted by whereda40at

2400 with me in it and a half tank of gas. I weigh 150. The car had nothing in it but 2 seats, a dash, console and door panels. I took all sound deadening out, all radio/audio, cut out supports in the doors and hatch, removed anything that didn't make the car go fast. Wiper assembly, headlight motors, front and read bumpers, cut holes in the rear bumper to reduce drag.

The difference in my 1.52 11.2 run from my 1.48 10.79 was removing rear bumper, cutting 2 big squares out to reduce drag and it was 40 degrees cooler out. Same tire pressure, same launch rpm, same burn out time, same boost, same tune.

Your set up is all about weight loss. Age old cheapest hp out there. Get rid of weight. Car will hook better, run faster and break less. If this one was a track car I would be doing the same. But it's daily driven. Needs a/c, power stealing etc.
Friend of mine went 10.80 in his 1g eclipse with the stock 14b turbo ( no nitrous ) by getting rid of useless weight.

What t2 do you have/had
I don't see myself ever beating your ET on a T2 turbo but I do see myself exceeding the mph on a T2 turbo. Looks like you have held that record for a long time. Good job!

[Tom N]

Delete double.....

[whereda40at]

Originally Posted by Tom N

Your set up is all about weight loss. Age old cheapest hp out there. Get rid of weight. Car will hook better, run faster and break less. If this one was a track car I would be doing the same. But it's daily driven. Needs a/c, power stealing etc.
Friend of mine went 10.80 in his 1g eclipse with the stock 14b turbo ( no nitrous ) by getting rid of useless weight.

What t2 do you have/had
I don't see myself ever beating your ET on a T2 turbo but I do see myself exceeding the mph on a T2 turbo. Looks like you have held that record for a long time. Good job!

Mine could have been a daily driver. Had tags on it and all. I drove it to the track, never trailered. Took extra axels with me everywhere I went too. I got 31 mph highway with it when I didn't boost it. haha

It was with the first gt2876r with internal wastegate. I had no power steering but I had skinnys on the front too. No a/c or lines for it. I wish I still had it all because I would have switched to the gtx2876r that came out a year later. But my 800cc injectors were maxed out on 93 so I had to go bigger. Which led to this build that ended with a part out thread....
http://zilvia.net/f/showthread.php?t=375968

[5280VertDET]

Hey guys,

I Figured this was the spot to ask. I was curious, for those running automatic transmissions, if you guys have used a aftermarket shifter with lock out? I found an article on NICO that mentions that our trans use a detent style shifters, doesn't look right though...

I am having troubles finding a universal one that will work, any thought or models I should be looking at?

Thanks!

[black05srt-4]

For you guys that went q45 rear dif, did any of you shim it or just leave it stock? Have a buddy trying to get me to shim it before i swap it out but leaning toward leaving it alone. Car will have be a 5.3l s366 4l80e combo hopefully around 550-600 whp.

[jr_ss]

I would install it and run it first before you decide to shim it. How many miles are on it? Have you tried it to see if it locks up? If it doesn't lock, it's not hard to shim it, just time consuming.

[Tom N]

^^^
I agree with above. If it locks up good you wouldn't want to shim it.
Test it out first.

[2stepGoesPowPow]

Originally Posted by black05srt-4

For you guys that went q45 rear dif, did any of you shim it or just leave it stock? Have a buddy trying to get me to shim it before i swap it out but leaning toward leaving it alone. Car will have be a 5.3l s366 4l80e combo hopefully around 550-600 whp.

Mines shimmed! i love it, good LSD and no annoying skidding on sharp turns. Haven't made any passes with it yet though.