GT2871 USERS. SR motor

[canary-s14a]

And about the boost creep with the 2871 ? anyone have this problem?

I have the ecu mapped for 20 psi max bost, but with the creep i need to boost 17 psi because just over 6000rpm it creeps up to 20... and thats a lot middle range power im loosing...

[2fast4y0u]

well im glad to read that others are having similar issues to me as well. i posted a few days ago, maybe a week that i have weird boosting issues... i will try and find that post.

also, my walboro is f*cking me up big time. 2 years ago when i put my car away to do a re-build i have voltage issues that sucked my ass. i couldnt even drive my car safely with out it dying.
now, my volts go all over the place. if i pull my fuel pump fuse im fine, as soon as the fuel pump cycles, i go from 12.5 volts to 10.9 volts.
when the car is running, if i am driving and press the clutch to stop the volts drop and the car stutters. so i have to rev it up. i have messed with the Dec. air values in my afc and also turned the screw out on my IACV and it seems to catch it self before it dies now. my idle stays around 1000 rpm which is what i wanted. my alternator can keep up with the voltage loss at this rpm. THANK GOD!!! i can safely drive my car now.



heres that post i made...
also got a weird problem i think i should share.

heres what my boost looks like from 1st-5th
1st - 8psi
2nd - 12
3rd - 15
4th - 18
5th - 20

i dont have a boost controller hooked up right now, but i cant imagine that is normal at all. no boost leaks, i know that for sure.
my air fuel ratios are perfect for all boost levels..

what should i do?

[jspaeth]

Originally Posted by 2fast4y0u

well im glad to read that others are having similar issues to me as well. i posted a few days ago, maybe a week that i have weird boosting issues... i will try and find that post.

also, my walboro is f*cking me up big time. 2 years ago when i put my car away to do a re-build i have voltage issues that sucked my ass. i couldnt even drive my car safely with out it dying.
now, my volts go all over the place. if i pull my fuel pump fuse im fine, as soon as the fuel pump cycles, i go from 12.5 volts to 10.9 volts.
when the car is running, if i am driving and press the clutch to stop the volts drop and the car stutters. so i have to rev it up. i have messed with the Dec. air values in my afc and also turned the screw out on my IACV and it seems to catch it self before it dies now. my idle stays around 1000 rpm which is what i wanted. my alternator can keep up with the voltage loss at this rpm. THANK GOD!!! i can safely drive my car now.



heres that post i made...
also got a weird problem i think i should share.

heres what my boost looks like from 1st-5th
1st - 8psi
2nd - 12
3rd - 15
4th - 18
5th - 20

i dont have a boost controller hooked up right now, but i cant imagine that is normal at all. no boost leaks, i know that for sure.
my air fuel ratios are perfect for all boost levels..

what should i do?

This is completely normal with no boost controller. Can't hit much boost in low gears but overboost in high gears.even WITH a properly set up AVC-R, targeting 17 psi boost, I usually only hit like 13-14 in 1st gear (it just revs up to quickly and isn't enough load to fully spool it).2nd gear I hit around 15-16, and then 3rd gear up I hit my target, 17.

[2fast4y0u]

hmmm. i have a pro fec b2 but dont know how to "tune" it. i also have a MBC but i cant find it...does me no good

[HPballer76]

just wondering how you guys think running the hks 264 intake cam with a 272 exhaust cam with the gt2871r .64 would be? and this will be on a s14 sr. opinions?

[s13silvia123]

Originally Posted by HPballer76

just wondering how you guys think running the hks 264 intake cam with a 272 exhaust cam with the gt2871r .64 would be? and this will be on a s14 sr. opinions?

from what i've seen with that setup for the last couple of years it gives a better spool up on the turbo. HP power band i have no idea.

[HPballer76]

sweet spool is one of my main concerns. anyone know how the powerband is?

[jspaeth]

Originally Posted by HPballer76

sweet spool is one of my main concerns. anyone know how the powerband is?

This Saturday, I am getting tuned on HKS 264 In/Ex 2871R 0.64 A/R and Greddy Intake Manifold, so I will post up my dyno for you to see.

[deukalionS14]

^^ I want to see this aswell

[slider2828]

^^^^What ECU is going to be on the car?

Supposed 264/272 is the best combo for HP and response, but personally, I am not sure, I run 264's all around....

[jspaeth]

Originally Posted by slider2828

^^^^What ECU is going to be on the car?

Supposed 264/272 is the best combo for HP and response, but personally, I am not sure, I run 264's all around....

Yeah I wasn't sure whether or not to go 264 or 272 on exhaust size....I figured 264 since it's a daily driver....

It's a Power FC D-Jetro

[HPballer76]

my car will have an enthalpy ecu. and im not worried about how it will be for daily driving since my car only gets drivin on the street a few times a month.

[2fast4y0u]

Originally Posted by HPballer76

my car will have an enthalpy ecu. and im not worried about how it will be for daily driving since my car only gets drivin on the street a few times a month.

i have an enthalpy tune and i LOVE IT!!! Martin has been a HUGE help and got my car running great.

forgot to ask...does anyone have pics or can tell me where there CAS is set for there setup. i see a couple of people have 264 step 2 cams and i am just wondering?
or what timing mark are you on at idle?
i have my plugs gapped at .028 and timing mark is 1 from the RIGHT at idle. idle b eing 940-1020.
my fuel pressure is at 45 psi and my afr is right around 15.5-16 at idle.


Jay

[slider2828]

Well from the side, my CAS is cocked a little to the left so there is less space on the RIGHT between the RIGHT BOLT holding the CAS in and the Notch for where the CAS Slot is.... Hard to explain, but its like that. Its not center, its cocked right, but timing is on.... 264 Step1's though

At idle, Mine bounces around cause of CAMs, but in general around 12-17 BTDC... Close to stock on average....

PSI is 38.xxx with Vac in and 45 with vac out... but I use stock FPR... Forget fuel pressure stuff, its stupid.... stock fitting is fine up to 400+WHP I think...

Idle is about 850-900 close around there, at Idle mine idles rich at 12.5 or so AFR measured before the CAT>

[2fast4y0u]

/\ cool, thank you

anyone else?

[jspaeth]

Originally Posted by 2fast4y0u

/\ cool, thank you

anyone else?

Well Jay I installed my CAS per the FSM, so with the 1st cylinder at TDC, the mating mark on the CAS is lined up perfectly with the line....i.e. 15 degrees.

My idle is so fucked up tho with the new cams...bouncing up and down really fast....hopefully my tuner can work that out.

[2fast4y0u]

i did my timing to FSM spec...but i know that cant be correct for bigger turbo and cams. so i made small adjustments with the CAS and plug gap. i just want to know what some of you guys that have had great dyno sheets and #s are doing...obviously its something right.

[jspaeth]

Originally Posted by 2fast4y0u

i did my timing to FSM spec...but i know that cant be correct for bigger turbo and cams. so i made small adjustments with the CAS and plug gap. i just want to know what some of you guys that have had great dyno sheets and #s are doing...obviously its something right.

I don't understand what you mean by that, but maybe that's because I am on PowerFC and not a ROM tune....

Spark plug gap is not enough to change anything that much, but timing obviously is.


As far as I know, with my standalone, I set the CAS to stock, and my tuner tunes off of that (with respect to that setting).....

I don't know why you would be fiddling with the CAS....that simply advances or retards the whole map, but that's not enough.....you need to have the whole map tuned....some cells may require advancing, others retarding....you can't just think that turning the CAS will make it run better all of a sudden....

[2fast4y0u]

well if i turn my CAS the car runs different, hands down. all im asking is if people with strong #s and proven power could take a few min to snap a pic or enlighten me on where there CAS is set. it obviously matters.
and yes, plug gap matters as well. maybe not a ton, but it matters. i have changed gaps from .032 to .028 and seen much better results and better running car. so i would also like to obtain that info as well.
if i get my timing to retard back to stock, by using the CAS to do so, the car dies...so i would like to know what timing people are running.

[jspaeth]

Originally Posted by 2fast4y0u

well if i turn my CAS the car runs different, hands down. all im asking is if people with strong #s and proven power could take a few min to snap a pic or enlighten me on where there CAS is set. it obviously matters.
and yes, plug gap matters as well. maybe not a ton, but it matters. i have changed gaps from .032 to .028 and seen much better results and better running car. so i would also like to obtain that info as well.
if i get my timing to retard back to stock, by using the CAS to do so, the car dies...so i would like to know what timing people are running.

What I am saying, is that most people with "good" power numbers are either running reliable ROM tunes or standalone tunes.


For a ROM tune, I would assume that Enthalpy sends you a timing map which is based around your CAS being set at factory setting....15 degrees or whatever.


For a standalone, I think you are also supposed to set it that way, but I don't know if it matters.

....in other words, I think if you retard the CAS by 2 degrees (effects the whole map).....your tuner could just go in and advance every cell by 2 degrees (offsetting what you did to the CAS) and it would be the same as if you never touched the CAS and he never touched the timing map.


I don't think you are going to find a simple answer for this question Jay.

[djcobra]

Wait, let me get this right, you guys leave the CAS at stock position while you have upgraded cams installed? Your timing will be way off!

From what i recall and have done in the past after installing upgraded cams is your base timing should be at 15 Degrees, always. I had to rotate my CAS clockwise (rotate right, ie. advanced) in order to get 15 Degrees via timing gun and what was shown on my PFC cell (i've gone with HKS F-Con V-Pro now). Idle should be around 850-950rpm and car should be warm for this procedure. After that is set and done you can F' around with the idle. With my HKS Step 1's 256/264 my idle is around 950-1000rpm.

Make sure you either use the line loop on the coils to get the correct reading or use a high tension cable plug it in the 1st spark plug and connect the other end to the coil.

If someone thinks i'm wrong, please chime in.

Steve.

[jspaeth]

Originally Posted by djcobra

Wait, let me get this right, you guys leave the CAS at stock position while you have upgraded cams installed? Your timing will be way off!

From what i recall and have done in the past after installing upgraded cams is your base timing should be at 15 Degrees, always. I had to rotate my CAS clockwise (rotate right, ie. advanced) in order to get 15 Degrees via timing gun and what was shown on my PFC cell (i've gone with HKS F-Con V-Pro now). Idle should be around 850-950rpm and car should be warm for this procedure. After that is set and done you can F' around with the idle. With my HKS Step 1's 256/264 my idle is around 950-1000rpm.

Make sure you either use the line loop on the coils to get the correct reading or use a high tension cable plug it in the 1st spark plug and connect the other end to the coil.

If someone thinks i'm wrong, please chime in.

Steve.

Someone PLEASE comment on this.....maybe this is why my idle is fucked?

The car honestly runs just fine though with the CAS set according to the FSM....only the idle sucks.

I was not aware you were supposed to rotate the CAS when installing new cams....


Either way, if you have a standalone I would say this is a BAD idea.


Installing the CAS per the FSM is a SOLID, reliable way to be certain that you are putting it back in the same way if you ever have to take it out (AFTER getting tuned).

If you manually turn it a little....then go and get tuned....then need to take it out, this makes it much harder to put it back in to where it was before you got tuned.

I am just leaving it, and will let my tuner take care of the timing with the PFC map.

Someone please chime in though

[djcobra]

hehe, setting CAS based on FSM is for Stock setup buddy. Timing is changed when you throw in cams, thicker headgasket, etc... If your base timing isn't correct your whole map is weird. I had a similar problem like yours, my CAS was set at stock with my previous HKS Step 2 cams. Had idle problems always going up and down etc... My tuner found the problem and adjusted the CAS. My a/f ratio is good 14.1 solid. HKS F-Con V-Pro along with A/F Knock Amp which monitors your A/F and adjusts your map based on the ratio and how you drive. Hate to sound biased but its a huge upgrade from my previous Set up which was the Power FC.

Steve/

[2fast4y0u]

im down with dj

i cant run at FSM spec on the CAS...my car wont run. if i start it and turn the CAS to FSM spec it dies.. i have to change it because of the longer valve opening.

i did some trouble shooting with my tuner over the phone and he even said adjust the CAS

[slider2828]

That is so weird..... I mean even on 272's or 264's, your car is supposed to turn on period.... Now when you guys stabbed it, that is not perfect, you still need to have a timing gun to verify, but still it SHOULD turn on hands down for sure....

If your car doesn't turn on or idle at all, then you for sure have a timing problem...

At idle, ont he PFC which i have, it runs rich, no idea why, but it does...

[jspaeth]

Originally Posted by slider2828

That is so weird..... I mean even on 272's or 264's, your car is supposed to turn on period.... Now when you guys stabbed it, that is not perfect, you still need to have a timing gun to verify, but still it SHOULD turn on hands down for sure....

If your car doesn't turn on or idle at all, then you for sure have a timing problem...

At idle, ont he PFC which i have, it runs rich, no idea why, but it does...

You guys are confusing the shit out of me.....why do you say "stabbed it" as though it's a shot in the dark.

Why would you NOT align the mating mark with the line on the CAS?

If you rotate it or whatever it shifts the whole map.....NOT a good way to "fix" the problem.....okay maybe one section of the map will run better, but most likely another section will run worse.

I am gonna stick with leaving the CAS in per the FSM.......except for my wacky idle (probably needs IACV adjustment) the car runs reasonably well.

I'll let him handle the timing by making corrections to the PFC map, and at least this way , in the future, I know EXACTLY where the CAS was lined up when the tuning was done.

[slider2828]

^^^ Well I called it stab, of course you line up the mating marks and yadda yadda.... Just saying fine tuning with gun for sure afterwords...

@2fast4you: For sure it should start up if done correctly hands down....

[jspaeth]

Originally Posted by slider2828

^^^ Well I called it stab, of course you line up the mating marks and yadda yadda.... Just saying fine tuning with gun for sure afterwords...

@2fast4you: For sure it should start up if done correctly hands down....

I don't understand the point of fine tuning with a gun though.

Presumably someone with this type of setup is gonna go somewhere and have it tuned.

If you set it up for 15* and want say 17* in a certain cell on the map.

Well, if you screw up and put the CAS in exactly 2* advanced (17*) can't you just set that cell to 19* and get the same result?

I think I am right on this but I'm not sure.

The point I am making, is that any tune, even a stock ECU tune, is based around the CAS being set at SOME BASELINE REFERENCE position.

You could put the CAS in wrong, but with a standalone retune the whole timing map RELATIVE to the CAS being in wrong, and have it still work fine.

But then you have to leave the CAS alone

[djcobra]

You need to talk to your tuner, he'll say the same thing i'm saying and along with others ie, slider2828 and whoever is trying to help you out.

Here's a link that i searched up for you!

How To Set Crank Angle Sensor (CAS) Timing on the SR20DET Engine

After they installed the cams they even used a timing gun to set the timing to 15* which requires you to rotate the CAS. +/-30 deg. Hopefully this opens your eyes.

Steve.

[jspaeth]

Originally Posted by djcobra

You need to talk to your tuner, he'll say the same thing i'm saying and along with others ie, slider2828 and whoever is trying to help you out.

Here's a link that i searched up for you!

How To Set Crank Angle Sensor (CAS) Timing on the SR20DET Engine

After they installed the cams they even used a timing gun to set the timing to 15* which requires you to rotate the CAS. +/-30 deg. Hopefully this opens your eyes.

Steve.

Okay I will give it a look see. Thanks for your help.

I am not saying that you don't need to drastically change timing with the cams.

I am saying can't you just go into the map and manaully change the timing of all the cells?


If I understand how it all works (I could be wrong).....there is some mark, somewhere on the CAS that is detected as being the "zero" point.

All of the timing in the map is with respect to that zero mark.

If you move the zero mark, you are essentially advancing/retarding all of the cells in the map.


So you are saying to rotate the CAS....okay fine maybe this works, but after you've rotated it, how can you be certain in the future that when you pull it, you are putting it back in the same exact way?



What I am saying to do, is to leave the zero mark as is from the factory (i.e. follow the FSM or whatever) and THEN tune the timing with respect to that.


In other words, 2 cars could have their CAS put in in different ways, but have the EXACT same timing maps...all of the timing cells in the one car's map would be different from those in the other car's map by the exact same number,.....this number bieng the difference in the "zero" of the CAS.



Someone please verify this or tell me i am off my rocker.