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10-09-2018, 02:42 PM | #61 |
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Picked up the center caps and ordered replacement lug nuts to replace the ones I destroyed last week.
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@schassis.eddi Last edited by Wykydtron; 10-10-2018 at 12:03 AM.. |
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10-10-2018, 12:02 AM | #62 |
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Idk if you're supposed to use blue thread locker on lug nut end caps, but today I bought some. Why you ask? As media, I find lug nut end caps all over the middle of speedway. These go on hand tight, and I'm not about to use a crescent wrench on them to tighten them down.
Aside from the end caps, I spoke with Tommy from PBM and he recommended I start using anti seize grease on my lugs since I stripped 2 of them. With Winter Drift around the corner, I need to order 2 tires for my drift spares. There's an Evergreen Drift winter drift event on the 20th I might hit up. I really need to work on clearance and front ride height lock to lock. My front passenger fender tacoed to my wheel (not bad but enough to notice). So I'm going to need to figure out how to prevent that. I ordered the GKTech v4 Rear Toe Rods and will install those ASAP and get on the alignment rack. I've still haven't heard back regarding my front type 3 fenders. [emoji120] Hopefully they will magical appear this month. It looks like my Auto-CollectStorm bumper guides are in the mail. I also ordered the lower fender braces. Unfortunately I won't be ordering my body kit until after I get my suspension and clearances sorted. I want to get seat time this winter season! Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk
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10-10-2018, 01:01 PM | #63 |
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Found another photo of me at DriftCon Afterdark thanks to @neverlift.media - media guys have each other's backs.
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@schassis.eddi Last edited by Wykydtron; 10-29-2018 at 11:23 PM.. |
10-29-2018, 07:41 PM | #64 |
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Friday night I got a my refreshed Villains knuckles in the mail and installed the new 50mm toe rods with machined in spacers. Along with that I installed my GKTech rear toe arms.
Below is the difference between the original inner tie rods that came with the older version Villains Angle Kit. It's a Maxima inner tie rod (from what I recall). The Villains now sell the kit and the tie rods optional with built in rack spacers. That extra machining allows the tie rod to go into the rack further but without losing theads. I brought my hatch into Hankook Tires Lynnwood where Kevin aligned everything to the best he could. I also received the Nismotronic Bluetooth module in the mail. I connected it to my tablet and bought the license for TunerViewer. This app can display a wide variety of parameters and also datalog on the fly. I also received my order (care package) from Autocollect Storm. I ordered the 180sx bumper guides and the fender braces. I should be betting my front fenders soon and maybe a body kit in before spring? We'll see... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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11-04-2018, 07:35 PM | #65 |
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Tron's S13 Hatch // PNW
I freaking love the PNW on days like this. I finally got her dialed on clearance and have it setup for the rest of winter season. I'll be picking up fenders tomorrow.
Man it's a good feeling to drive to the track, put in a full day of driving, look at the rears and say "meh" and drive back home. I'm probably the minority but I don't mind having low HP. I could go for a little more to keep these 235/40/18's spinning. Next time it's dry, I'm going to air up the rears to 60psi and go full speed into the 3/8ths to see if I can simulate what my NA KA on 17's could do. I had a little to much grip when it dried out today. [emoji848] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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@schassis.eddi Last edited by Wykydtron; 11-04-2018 at 10:45 PM.. |
11-04-2018, 07:44 PM | #66 |
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Looking good man!
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11-05-2018, 11:58 PM | #67 |
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Tron's S13 Hatch // PNW
Thanks man! Sooo... Drove to Bellingham tonight. My friend Paul sold his mint hatch to a guy in Colorado Springs. Paul just got his Origin Lab fenders in a few weeks ago... Since he sold his hatch, he sold me his Origin Type 2 fenders! And if anyone is curious, I asked around Twitter if anyone could confirm authenticity. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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@schassis.eddi Last edited by Wykydtron; 11-06-2018 at 12:48 AM.. |
11-10-2018, 11:11 PM | #68 |
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Tron's S13 Hatch // PNW
Last night I was pretty drunk at my friend Charie Touche birthday. I started screaming "my car isn't low enough" in front of the bar and my gf about slapped me. Rightly so, she should have for not making it lower.
I decided to get off my ass today and do something about it. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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@schassis.eddi Last edited by Wykydtron; 11-11-2018 at 12:43 AM.. |
11-16-2018, 10:01 PM | #72 |
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Tron's S13 Hatch // PNW
This was a long week, I spent my free time after work working on getting the over fenders fitted. I got my Type 3 front fenders yesterday and threw them on. I am filthy from all the dust. I just took her around the neighborhood and raged on her to hear for rubbing. Passenger side has a bit of rubbing, I may have to bring it up slightly until I can get heavier spring rates.
The front could probably go lower with stiffer springs. We shall see. The Fineline 180sx Type 3 fenders fit a little better than Origin Type 2. But the Fineline fenders are pretty rough compared to the Origins. I'll have to clean them up when I have time. The rear Origin over fenders fit perfectly. I brought my wheels out slightly but left enough gap to allow them to tuck under load. Again I may raise it slightly. I just love how it looks dumped. Big shout-out to my gf for putting up with my shit this week. This was the first time I've done this to an schassis. This is my 8th S13. So I'm stoked to finally embark on ruining a shell. Ive always loved big wheels slammed schassis. Front 55mm fenders Rear 50mm fenders Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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@schassis.eddi Last edited by Wykydtron; 11-17-2018 at 08:17 AM.. |
11-20-2018, 09:15 AM | #74 |
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I hope you welded and seam sealed those rears. Not an advocate for overfenders, but if you do it, do em right!
Nice progress so far man keep the updates coming
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12-04-2018, 06:31 PM | #75 |
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This update is way over due... Uploading the photos right now and will type everything out on the computer. Watch for the edit.
Edit: On November 24th I headed out to Evergreen Speedway for the Winter Drift event. The day started out fairly well. While I was driving, I attempting to film video of other drivers but hit a snag when my motor started to die. While I was drifting the cageless tandem course, my motor suddenly lost all power and fell on its face. I clutched in and it died. It took a few tries to start her back up, but I managed to limp her off the track by blipping the throttle and riding the clutch to prevent it from stalling. I couldn't get my car back into my pit area so I had to work on it in the 5/8ths pocket (bottom of the bank). My motor wouldn't idle and needed constant throttle to keep it running. My AFR's were roughly 8-9. I could tell there was gas sputtering on the floor behind my muffler. I pulled the spark plugs and found they were covered in soot. We decided to clean the spark plugs up to see if it would idle. It was still struggling, so I went and bought new plugs. After putting the new plugs in, the motor would idle without me babying the throttle... I was still reading at 9-10 AFR's at idle. Alex Lindsay was helping me out diagnose the issue, while we were looking at the motor he randomly asked how old my MAF was and if we should try a different sensor. He reached down for the air filter and felt a gaping hole in the top. We found that the top cap of the cone filter popped off and was blocking the MAF sensor completely! After pulling that out of the MAF sensor, the motor was running a lot better. But luck wasn't on our side just yet... The AFR's were still running super rich, but I was able to drift it on the track. While I was going full throttle, as soon as the boost went above 10psi it would go super rich and misfire. My tuner Nathan Shiel mentioned to me that the hole in the intake could be allowing to much air to hit the MAF sensor, causing it to run really rich. He recommended to block it or swap out the filter. I went with the ghetto cardboard, electrical tape, and zipties option... Needless to say, that didn't solve the issue. The motor was still running rich and bogging down in boost. My half day at the track came to an end, but I was able to drive her back home to further diagnose the issue. Since it's been a while, I went ahead and changed the disturber cap, rotor, and spark plug wires in hopes that it would help. I event bought a new MAF, which didn't resolve the issue completely. The car was running good, but not top notch. Juan Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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@schassis.eddi Last edited by Wykydtron; 12-04-2018 at 07:15 PM.. |
12-04-2018, 06:47 PM | #76 |
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While I was working on trying to figure out what was going wrong, Alex Lindsay and a few other drivers were asking about the fuel pressure regulator, if I had the OEM FPR, and if I could test the fuel pressure.
Nikki loaned me her fuel pressure regulator and I ran the test. I have the S14 OEM FPR and Walbro 255 pump. I was at 59 psi with the motor off but fuel pump on, 40 psi with motor idling, and around 37 psi when I revved and held the motor at about 3,000 rpm. While I was cruising to 7-Eleven to buy a few drinks, I recently posted on FB asking around to see if anyone had a spare air filter I could borrow. Ironically, I drove past my buddy Guy and he DM'd me asking how the motor was running. I told him, "like shit when I hit boost" so I told him I wanted to throw out the CX Racing intake (or cut it down so I could run a normal filter pod). He had one in his garage! He brought over a stock SR intake pipe and a filter that didn't have the stupid cone/disk in the top. The motor was running decent that night, but I later found out it was still misfiring. Regardless, I drove down to Kent WA for NW Toy Run. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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12-04-2018, 06:56 PM | #77 |
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Tron's S13 Hatch // PNW
Casey and I hopped into the hatch and met up with Guy the next morning. We drove all the way down to Kent and back without much issues. Keep in mind, I wasn't hauling ass on the freeway...
Later that night I went for a few late night highway pulls... the issue was still there. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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@schassis.eddi Last edited by Wykydtron; 12-05-2018 at 03:25 AM.. |
12-04-2018, 07:05 PM | #78 |
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Final conclusion of the mysterious misfiring in boost...
Well, let me start out by saying this... The air filter breaking and blocking the MAF obviously caused the spark plugs to get a shit ton of soot on them. After replacing the plugs with new spark plugs, the motor still was acting up. I went ahead and did a full tune up on the car as a preventative. Replacing the air filter and intake tube was another item I wanted to do for a while. A few days ago I went and re-gapped the old spark plugs to 0.028 and sanded down the contact points to remove the black soot. The new spark plugs were at 0.042. Since I'm running 14 psi, my tuner mentioned it could have been spark blowout! The motor the past two days has been behaving well. While I was going over the entire motor, I also noticed my ground wire off my battery was lose to the chassis. I went and found a better location, cleaned up the contact points, and tightened her down. Hard lessen learned? I should have started with the stupid simple solutions first and move on to more complex. I guess I was too frustrated to think about the smaller details. Needless to say, my motor was far overdue for a tune up! I'm also determined to switch over to speed density so I don't have to deal with MAF issues again.
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12-06-2018, 11:31 AM | #81 | |
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Quote:
Fuel pump is good, Nismotronic, 550cc, 14psi. I'll convert to speed density once I upgrade the turbo. We all go through this stage, unless you want your car to sit at the body shop for a few months. I'd prefer to drive [emoji1690] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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02-03-2019, 05:52 PM | #82 |
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Mounting the kit on, I'm trying to retain as much of the OEM brackets to avoid sagging. I need to do some trimming and finish the rest of the mounting points.
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02-10-2019, 01:06 AM | #83 |
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She's finally on the ground. I still need to make brackets to flare the side skirts out to match the body line and bring the front bumper flares in. Better mounting up front maybe more trimming. For now, Ziptied as any 90's shit box. [emoji16]
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02-10-2019, 12:46 PM | #84 |
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one of those chola-proof kbd kits i'm guessing? it's never gonna fit right without wasting 1000 hours that would have been better spent working a job to pay for something legit. storm bfg can only help so much
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02-20-2019, 02:38 PM | #85 | |
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Quote:
I'll have to talk to my buddy that I want to paint it and get his recommendations.
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02-27-2019, 10:35 PM | #86 |
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Last week I installed a PBM skid plate and 10k springs. Lowered the front a few inches.
Got seat the this past weekend. Blair Photography stopped by the speedway and took a few photos. I applied the filter [emoji848] Decided to buy a roof wing to see how it looks. Really happy with my current setup. KA-T seems to be reliable, however its running a bit rich. It starts to run very rich when I go out hot lapping. I've seen it about 9-10 AFR after doing 3-4 hot laps in a row. Not sure why, my temps look good. I need to talk to my tuner about these symptoms. I'd like to get an oil cooler to improve cooling. 3 open drifts this year, I haven't had to change the rear tires once. The mixture of wet and dry conditions coupled with low HP is getting me by. [emoji1690] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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03-08-2019, 11:03 PM | #87 |
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Had a lot of wheel hopping at the last EVD Open Drift. Bushings were shot. Ordered PBM solids on Sunday, going to pop them in this weekend. [emoji1690]
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03-10-2019, 01:30 AM | #88 |
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Woke up to this
As soon as the Parts Shop MAX solid bushings came in, I put them in the freezer and brought them down to -20 Celsius. Being that this was my first time doing this, I wasn't sure how much to cut or how quickly it would cut. The sawzall made this whole process fast. I started by drilling the rubber out and then hammering out the metal centerpieces. Once that was done, I cut 2 lines so that I could punch out a section and have the metal insert taco. I ended up using 2 1/2 inch wire wheel to hone/clear the cylinders. I then used a metal file to get rid of metal burr and file in a 45 degree taper. The bushings were tight to start. Very difficult, my fingers hurt from how cold they were. I wrapped a towel around the bushings to prevent my fingers from freezing and smacked it with a rubber dead blow. And then I went viral with this photo. [emoji23] Aligning the subframe to go back into the car with a floor jack is a pain in the ass. It took me a good 2 hours to get it to work. At one point I got the subframe jammed and stuck. I was so pissed. I'm glad I got it all back together. Tomorrow I'll blew the brakes, double check all the bolts/nuts, check ebrake, and the hopefully cruise around town. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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03-14-2019, 05:53 PM | #90 |
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Haha [emoji23] NOTE TO FUTURE SELF: my POS eBay turbo that is a "T25" could also have a TD04/TD05 Center housing AND REQUIRES AN M12 x 1.5mm banjo bolt fitting with oil restrictor. This is my collection of "oops I ordered the wrong fitting" [emoji24] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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240sx, evergreendrift, hatch, s13, seattle |
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