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Old 09-30-2011, 10:18 AM   #7921
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You can ship all that via UPS(little more costly) or greyhound or even some LTL trucking companies, Pitt Ohio in Harrisburg off grayson rd. could help you out possibly. That would probably be 35 to start and then whatever weight and fuel surcharge they tack on it. Thats where I used to work, dunno if they will just take it, you'll have to give them a call.
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Old 09-30-2011, 10:56 AM   #7922
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Does anyone have pictures of an s13 hatch with Kouki aero and an aftermarket rear bumper?

Im looking for an instant gentleman rear to be specific. Kouki 180sx Aero thread is too big to search through it..Unless you can provide post#.
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Old 09-30-2011, 02:50 PM   #7923
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I was burning my bushings out, and I burned out one in the traction rod...the energy suspension rear kit doesn't come with those does it? It only comes with the one for the traction rod in the knuckle?
Edit: I just counted, and since I have aftermarket toe and ruca, I believe I have enough if they will fit in. Which I believe they will.
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Old 09-30-2011, 04:51 PM   #7924
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My friend recently repaired my HUD cluster, there was a break in the membrane. Anyway, I don't know whether the problem was caused by something he did or if it was already an issue prior to the repair. The problem is that when I give the ignition two clicks my taillights and turn signal lights are lighting up. Any idea on what this issue might be?
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Old 09-30-2011, 05:07 PM   #7925
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does anybody know what front lip this is?

Thanks
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Old 09-30-2011, 07:36 PM   #7926
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^looks like C-west
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Old 09-30-2011, 07:59 PM   #7927
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JDM SPUG View Post
does anybody know what front lip this is?

Thanks
http://zilvia.net/f/chat/174916-identify-thread.html

^ that kind
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Old 09-30-2011, 08:01 PM   #7928
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You guys really only need to ask your questions in one thread.
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Old 09-30-2011, 09:48 PM   #7929
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what would be the best material to use for an exhaust gasket? I see the MR. Gasket/Percy's stuff, but just curious. The gaskets I need cannot be found, exhaust isn't very common.
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Old 10-01-2011, 01:15 AM   #7930
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what would be the best material to use for an exhaust gasket? I see the MR. Gasket/Percy's stuff, but just curious. The gaskets I need cannot be found, exhaust isn't very common.
The head to manifold? The Mr. Gasket one is very nice and not that expensive. I think I have one around here still. I would not hesitate buying another.
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Old 10-01-2011, 01:18 AM   #7931
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^I needed a special gasket a while back and ended up cutting my own out of some gasket type paper I purchased from Napa for cheap. Not sure if they still sell it but it's worth a shot depending on what kind of gasket you need.
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Old 10-01-2011, 08:55 AM   #7932
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wiring color codes

ive looked through all of the fsm pdf's and scoured the internet for an hour but i cant seem to find a chart with what the wire color are/do. any one have a link or know if it even exist?
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Old 10-01-2011, 09:49 AM   #7933
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Do s13 mats fit well in a s14? I found a set of dmax locally but they are s13 ones.. Anyone have a photo of what the fit is like?

These are just fronts not rears
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Old 10-01-2011, 05:15 PM   #7934
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1. I have seen a rebuild guide for a ka oil pump and was just wondering if someone has the part numbers for a sr rebuild or if I'm stuck buying the whole front cover?
2. I am going to be rebuilding my sr and will be wanting about 350hp to the wheels and was wondering if I would be fine with stock rods or should I go to eagle rods?
3. when searching online I saw people having problems with arp main & head studs. for my power goals would either of those be needed or would I be fine with stock? I will be going with an Apexi head gasket if that matters
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Old 10-01-2011, 06:11 PM   #7935
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Just put some solid motor mounts/ tranny mount in my car. Threw some spacers between the mount to lift the motor some, about a 1/4 inch. Now my car overheats. Im aware that heat rises but I'm not sure if that would have anything to do with it?
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Old 10-01-2011, 10:07 PM   #7936
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ms!3 View Post
Just put some solid motor mounts/ tranny mount in my car. Threw some spacers between the mount to lift the motor some, about a 1/4 inch. Now my car overheats. Im aware that heat rises but I'm not sure if that would have anything to do with it?
Im no expert, but it could have something to do with the fan setup.. Do you still have the stock fan and shroud? Or e-fans? Did you remove the shroud?

Did you mess with any coolant lines or the rad at all? Maybe air bubble in the system
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Old 10-01-2011, 10:47 PM   #7937
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The head to manifold? The Mr. Gasket one is very nice and not that expensive. I think I have one around here still. I would not hesitate buying another.
nah, i replaced the manifold/head ones with oem stuff

im needing if for the sections of the exhaust, like downpipe to mid-piece and mid-piece to axle-back.

the shape is really unique its like \( )_( )/ and the ( ) ( ) being exhaust pipes so i have to cut it myself
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Old 10-01-2011, 11:03 PM   #7938
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My engine oil gets dark VERY quickly. Any ideas what's to blame? First I had Mobil 1 5w-30 Fully synthetic. After just 1800miles it was black as tar. Thought it was Oil to blame got my self Motul 15w-50 300V. Check after 600miles - black ooze again.
First I got oil chaged at an honest and good shop, and motul I changed m'self tilting the car in all directions trying to get every last bit of the previous oil out.
I used Nissan and bosh oil filters.
Compression 9.1 in all cylinders
The turbo started burning oil but this started after I discovered the oil condition.

<car s14zenki turbo>
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Old 10-02-2011, 02:03 AM   #7939
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So i want to put a 5mm slip on spacer on my s14, is it safe? or is 5mm to much on the stock lugs bolts?
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Old 10-02-2011, 03:28 AM   #7940
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why do some nardi steering wheels have this ring and some dont?

Last edited by ccab92; 10-02-2011 at 04:05 AM..
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Old 10-02-2011, 08:18 AM   #7941
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Quote:
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My engine oil gets dark VERY quickly. Any ideas what's to blame? First I had Mobil 1 5w-30 Fully synthetic. After just 1800miles it was black as tar. Thought it was Oil to blame got my self Motul 15w-50 300V. Check after 600miles - black ooze again.
First I got oil chaged at an honest and good shop, and motul I changed m'self tilting the car in all directions trying to get every last bit of the previous oil out.
I used Nissan and bosh oil filters.
Compression 9.1 in all cylinders
The turbo started burning oil but this started after I discovered the oil condition.

<car s14zenki turbo>
From what I've heard that's due to carbon build up.
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Old 10-02-2011, 01:39 PM   #7942
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tossaxe View Post
My engine oil gets dark VERY quickly. Any ideas what's to blame? First I had Mobil 1 5w-30 Fully synthetic. After just 1800miles it was black as tar. Thought it was Oil to blame got my self Motul 15w-50 300V. Check after 600miles - black ooze again.
First I got oil chaged at an honest and good shop, and motul I changed m'self tilting the car in all directions trying to get every last bit of the previous oil out.
I used Nissan and bosh oil filters.
Compression 9.1 in all cylinders
The turbo started burning oil but this started after I discovered the oil condition.

<car s14zenki turbo>
Try doing a seafoam treatment
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Old 10-02-2011, 02:04 PM   #7943
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found. im stupid.

Last edited by andrew600; 10-02-2011 at 07:18 PM..
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Old 10-02-2011, 04:55 PM   #7944
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i was wondering if anybody here has had a D-MAX CF hood and how they like it?
Is fitment good?
Did your hood turn yellow over time from the sun?

Thanks
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Old 10-02-2011, 05:19 PM   #7945
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^ people dont turn yellow...

all clear coat will eventually fade, so its inevitable. The quality will determine how long it will last though

I've heard its a hit and miss on Dmax hoods. some fit great, others not so much. BH had one on his s13, it fit pretty decent.
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Old 10-02-2011, 05:44 PM   #7946
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alright, so my car is having this issue..

s13 with SR, was auto dohc->5speed swap (no previous issues)

when I shut off {the motor} and go to remove the key, the key will remain stuck in the ignition, and the button labeled "push" remains locked in place. theres a little tab right under the "push" button, and I found in order to remove the key I need to take a screwdriver or another key and click it up. Then the unlock/push button will operate, and the key will remove like normal.

Odd...

tried jimming it, messing with Batt. etc, cant really seem to find the problem.

searched and found this

key stuck in ignition - Page 2 - Nissan 240SX Forums

Quote:
If you take loose the lower steering wheel cover and look at the ignition cylinder you should see a white plastic box where the release button is. There should be a red and black wire coming from it. Follow those wires til you see a brown plug covered with foam. Tear off the foam and unplug it. That should allow you to release the key. I hope that this helps.
will this solve my problem for good? what is the "brown foam wrapped plug" for? Is there a better way to permantly solve this problem?

thanks in advance.

Last edited by towlie; 10-03-2011 at 05:13 PM..
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Old 10-02-2011, 07:35 PM   #7947
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dopplganger1 View Post
1. I have seen a rebuild guide for a ka oil pump and was just wondering if someone has the part numbers for a sr rebuild or if I'm stuck buying the whole front cover?
2. I am going to be rebuilding my sr and will be wanting about 350hp to the wheels and was wondering if I would be fine with stock rods or should I go to eagle rods?
3. when searching online I saw people having problems with arp main & head studs. for my power goals would either of those be needed or would I be fine with stock? I will be going with an Apexi head gasket if that matters
1) Not sure if you can just buy the pump itself, have only seen nothing but the whole front cover with the pump in it.
2) Stock rods are fine, I'd recommend fresh stock rod bearings.
3) I'd upgrade to ARP headstuds. It's cheap and does a better job that the stock ones. Another thing to look into is, when you upgrade to a Metal HG, make sure your oil pump cover is milled the same level as the block. Almost on all SRs, the front cover is a few mil higher than the block. You slap a metal HG on it and you have issues sealing the #1 cylinder.
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Old 10-02-2011, 07:41 PM   #7948
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(no spark after fixing other unknown caused problems...)

Ok so long story short..
I swapped a 93 ka24de into my 90 hb, it ran for 3 days..nd I had a blown headgasket ( from day 1, was guaranteed nothing wrong with the motor, nd in a hurry to get my car running so i didnt tear it down nd replace with all new gaskets >I know ,big mistake<..) was smoking from first start up, thought its cuz it was running a little rich..
Anyways..

The 3rd day I was driving nd heard that nasty like metal sound u hear when u know 100% its a blown headgasket nd I parked the car and turned it off..(yes had over heating issues, but literally Mayb drove it 12 miles in all 3 days)
Waited a couple hours nd tried to drive it home, but ..
PROBLEM: car didn't want to start..
I towed it to My buddy pad with my other buddy gf Saturn nd a rope...
Replaced headgasket, re did timing on the whole motor, new I take mani nd exhaust mani gaskets..ETC..
My fuel pump wasnt working so I wired it to a manual switch and works just fine..
Then I noticed my turn signals wouldn't work with key turned to the "on" positon(corners come on witb hazards), I don't know what caused it seeing as they were working fine b4 the blown headgasket..(still haven't fixed it, trying to get car running first)

Anyways..
I swapped coils, cleaned dizzy cap nd rotor, checked and am getting power to all the sensors, literally checked all my SP wires ,SP's, coil , dizzy etc.. like 20 times..nd km stilm not getting any spark??;?
Any ideas??? I need tk fet my car fixed ASAP..any help b greTly apppreciated, ThNks!
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Old 10-02-2011, 08:08 PM   #7949
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what is the thread pattern for the bolt on the front sway bar mount for a 93 coupe?
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Old 10-02-2011, 08:54 PM   #7950
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Would I get any noticeable gains from Megan stainless headers and downpipe? I already have a test pipe and Spec II. Don't know if it's worth the money.
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