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Old 09-15-2011, 03:19 PM   #7681
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I could be wrong but it looks like he just removed one and kept the regular length blade.
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Old 09-15-2011, 03:20 PM   #7682
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jonathong View Post

Was wondering how he got his winshield wiper like that? did he just remove one and put a bigger wiper blade?
they sell kits for this
if you put a larger blade on the passenger side, it would only cover the passenger and the right 1/2 of the windshield

the wiper motor stops it from completely going all the way across, and i believe there is no way to change where the stop is

the only theoretical way you would be able to do this is mount the blade wrong, so that it doesn't go down when its off (like 2/5th of the way up the windshield) and so when you turn it on it goes further back even though the motor stop is in the same position. A bigger blade will probably pass the windshield and mess up the paint on the roof
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Old 09-15-2011, 03:49 PM   #7683
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im attempting to remove my front control arms to put in poly bushings...im stuck getting the arms off. i got the sway bar end links out fine, and the ball joint. the tension rod bolts and where the back of the arm (the part with the bushing) is bolted on will not move. ive used pb blaster like 4 times, letting it set for various times (up to like 2 hours) then heating it with a propane torch, and it will not budge with all my force. whatd be the next step in removing them?
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Old 09-15-2011, 05:24 PM   #7684
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Anyone have a good method for fixing bent exhaust tips? Just got my new exhaust in the mail and one of the exhaust tips got bent durring shipping. Any help would be appreciated.

Edit: I'm just going to look around for a pipe expander tomorrow. Flack it.

Last edited by zo0d; 09-15-2011 at 06:57 PM..
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Old 09-15-2011, 05:52 PM   #7685
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Anyone have a good method for fixing bent exhaust tips? Just got my new exhaust in the mail and one of the exhaust tips got bent durring shipping. Any help would be appreciated.
Send it back and get another one. Had to do that with a radiator.
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Old 09-15-2011, 11:44 PM   #7686
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I have a problem with a ka24de+t, its from a s14, the spark is too weak, what options do I have?
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Old 09-16-2011, 01:08 AM   #7687
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Just did a tune up on my S14 SR.
Noticed the NGK BKR6E plugs it had were gapped around 0.35 -0.37
Got new BKR6EIX's. Got them down to the recommend 0.28
I drive the car and i notice acceleration does not feel as great as before.
Can i just leave the BKR6EIX at 0.35 ?
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Old 09-16-2011, 08:10 AM   #7688
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just wondering how hard it is to remove t brake pedal? i have to replace the little stopper thing the brake light switch hits.
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Old 09-16-2011, 08:50 AM   #7689
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Hey can someone pin point me where the fuel pressure regulator is in a s14 ka? Sorry Im new to 240s', can you describe in detail where i can locate it and how many lines are connected to it? also pictures would help.... thank you very much!!!
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Old 09-16-2011, 09:06 AM   #7690
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vitzio240sx View Post
Hey can someone pin point me where the fuel pressure regulator is in a s14 ka? Sorry Im new to 240s', can you describe in detail where i can locate it and how many lines are connected to it? also pictures would help.... thank you very much!!!
i have a sr not a ka, but im fairly certain its at the end of this fuel rail on the left. should have 2 lines going to it. http://i270.photobucket.com/albums/j...e/FuelRail.jpg

anyone who can confirm/deny this would be great.
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Old 09-16-2011, 11:47 AM   #7691
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jonathong View Post


Was wondering how he got his winshield wiper like that? did he just remove one and put a bigger wiper blade?
Looks like he removed the one wiper, and re-clocked the other. Now, instead of nesting down in the 'parked' position, it starts at that position and sweeps all the way down on the other side. The hub that the arm attaches to should be splined, so you could unbolt the arm, lift it up, and then set it back on the hub in that position. 2004 rice, they used to be called "DTM wipers", inspired by DTM race cars.

Quote:
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im attempting to remove my front control arms to put in poly bushings...im stuck getting the arms off. i got the sway bar end links out fine, and the ball joint. the tension rod bolts and where the back of the arm (the part with the bushing) is bolted on will not move. ive used pb blaster like 4 times, letting it set for various times (up to like 2 hours) then heating it with a propane torch, and it will not budge with all my force. whatd be the next step in removing them?
Are you using a breaker bar?

Quote:
Originally Posted by machuca212 View Post
just wondering how hard it is to remove t brake pedal? i have to replace the little stopper thing the brake light switch hits.
I just did this. You don't have to remove the brake petal, but it is a bit tricky reaching up there and setting the bumper in place. I started dis-assembling the interior trim to drop the steering column, but then discovered that I could reach up there and get it in without all the disassembly.
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Old 09-16-2011, 11:56 AM   #7692
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Stupid (and weird) Power Steering questions

ok so about 2 months ago (more or less) i finaly finished my LS! swap and its friggin awesome!!!
BUT

after about 2 weeks in to using my car my steering rack broke (well melted) bushings etc...

so i figured ok well maybe it was time for it to quit and i replaced it.... BUT

about 1 week later we had a drift practice here and as SOON as i got there and was about to park my car to unload the tires and stuff WHAMM!!!! Second steering rack melted again!!!!!! and so i noticed that the frigging exhaust was about 1/16 of an inch away from the steering rack and DUHHH!!!!! its melting the crap out of them... so anywho.. called a friend and about 2 hours later had another steering rack in my hand BUT this time i made some fancy heat shields and covered the lines in heat shielding material and stuff

Drifted it for about 2 hours and the practice ended (it was about 6:00 by then poop) anywho

so ok cool as i was about to turn my car around and get my daily tires in the rear CRAPFUCK!!!!!! my THIRD FREAKING STEERING RACK MELTED!!!!!!!!!!

so ok i said F** IT took my car to another muffler shop and had them re-do the drivers side mani to move it AWAY!!! from the steering rack about 3 1/2 inches was possible and hopefully that will be the end of that BUT

(here comes the weird question)

Everytime that i installed a steering rack since day one the lines seemed to be inverted o_O (im talking about the ones in the back)

the only lines shown here:






as far as i know the top line connecs to the drivers side and the lower one to the passangers side BUT for whatever reason everytime i installed these racks and turned on the car and turned the wheel the steering rack would YANK the wheel from my hand and turn it the other way!!!!!

if the car was on the floor it would only do that BUT if it was on jack stands (or lifted) the stupid thing would go nuts and turn ON ITS OWN left then righ and left and right (Man why didnt i record that) it was soooo freaky but i knew the solution just flip the lines and everything was cool again BUT the thing is that all the rack where working just fine before they were removed, PLUS its not like im gonna flip the lines over "just for fun" so is this normal or WTF is going on?????
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Old 09-16-2011, 12:03 PM   #7693
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Quote:
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Are you using a breaker bar?
.
no, just a socket wrench
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Old 09-16-2011, 12:12 PM   #7694
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no, just a socket wrench
get a breaker bar.
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Old 09-16-2011, 01:20 PM   #7695
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i cheated and used a pipe...it worked, but i didnt think it thru very well because i was so excited i finally got it off, and now the wrench is hitting the steering rack and i cant get it off or turn the switch so i can tighten it back up and take the wrench off >.< lol
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Old 09-16-2011, 07:22 PM   #7696
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i have the arm disconnected from the bushing, but i cant get ball joint to pop out of the knuckle. i bought a ball joint tool from autozone but it doesnt do anything...
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Old 09-16-2011, 08:18 PM   #7697
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I have a 89 s13 and my headlights won't pop up or go down. But the headlights will light up when I turn the switch. To get them down or up, I have to do it manually. I was wondering how I could fix them to work again. Is it a fuse? Thanks
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Old 09-16-2011, 08:44 PM   #7698
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I've googled, can't really find explicit data.

For 300zx brake swaps. I have an S14.

The E-Brake cable is regarded as the hardest part. I'm doing the rear conversion.

The R33 Skyline E-Brake cable is supposed to work. But I haven't seen an exact trim level of skyline to get the e-brake cable from?

I know mynismo.com sells what I'm looking for.

So GTR? GTS? Doesn't matter? Thanks.


Edit: Nvm. GTS.
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Old 09-16-2011, 09:39 PM   #7699
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Noob question, I am putting a fuel cell in the car and does anyone know if I can put the external pump on top of the cell? or does it have it sit under?
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Old 09-17-2011, 11:48 AM   #7700
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Why did my oil pressure valve assembly for my KA come with two shims? What are the advantages of increased oil pressure? And how on Earth am I supposed to tighten that assembly to 45 lbs.?
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Old 09-17-2011, 12:26 PM   #7701
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What is the torque requirement for the intake manifold onto the head on an S13 SR20?
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Old 09-17-2011, 01:07 PM   #7702
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I am planning on getting all the Powered by MAX tubular suspension pieces and rods for my S13. I have S14 spindles and FLCAs for said S13, not installed yet (for 5 lug conversion). Should I get S14 FLCAs, or S13 FLCAs and swap balljoints?

If I get S13 FLCAs and swap balljoints, then I can run a normal S13 damper setup and not have to worry about getting adapter bushings, right? I'm thinking this is the setup that makes sense, but I want to make sure. Thanks in advance!

EDIT: looked at diagrams wrong. The dampers mount to the spindle... so I guess there is no difference/advantage to S13 over S14 if they're adjustable anyway... right?
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Old 09-17-2011, 05:41 PM   #7703
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Where can I buy brand new O rings that go onto the intake manifold? Those thick black rings that seal the tip of the injector
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Old 09-17-2011, 05:47 PM   #7704
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Quote:
Originally Posted by koharatx View Post
I am planning on getting all the Powered by MAX tubular suspension pieces and rods for my S13. I have S14 spindles and FLCAs for said S13, not installed yet (for 5 lug conversion). Should I get S14 FLCAs, or S13 FLCAs and swap balljoints?

If I get S13 FLCAs and swap balljoints, then I can run a normal S13 damper setup and not have to worry about getting adapter bushings, right? I'm thinking this is the setup that makes sense, but I want to make sure. Thanks in advance!

EDIT: looked at diagrams wrong. The dampers mount to the spindle... so I guess there is no difference/advantage to S13 over S14 if they're adjustable anyway... right?
The PBM rods will come with both s14 and s13 mounts due to the width of the subframe mount being different, the mount on the spindle is the same for both cars.
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Old 09-17-2011, 08:49 PM   #7705
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Question s14 driveshaft

does anyone know if the driveshaft for the 95 240sx SE is a two-piece or a single if its automatic
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Old 09-17-2011, 09:13 PM   #7706
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Where can I buy brand new O rings that go onto the intake manifold? Those thick black rings that seal the tip of the injector
Autozone, O'reilly, RockAuto, NAPA, Nissan, Summit, Amazon.com.... eBay probably.
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Old 09-17-2011, 09:29 PM   #7707
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I had a feeling. Stupid frikking things don't wanna seal up.
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Old 09-17-2011, 09:52 PM   #7708
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Could this be why my SR isn't starting/getting spark?

Connector from coilpack harness >>> upper engine harness.

Broken, but still clips in just fine. Noticed it was missing a pin -_-

Sits beind the fuel injector rail





I've tried EVERYTHING to get this to start (short of CAS)
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Old 09-17-2011, 10:08 PM   #7709
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I vaguely remember mine missing a connector also. And it still starts.

Check for spark on it.
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Old 09-17-2011, 10:29 PM   #7710
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Like I said, no spark.
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