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Old 09-07-2011, 10:13 PM   #7591
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Depends on what you mean by plug and play, if the silvia headlights still have the little harness on the back then yes.

No subharness, then no.


Harness: Plug n play, except the yellows. Bricks are plug n play.


No Harness: not Plug n play
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Old 09-07-2011, 10:36 PM   #7592
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depends on how low you are.

And what size wheels.

And tires.
the wheels are 18x9.5+12 with a 225/40 and

i wanna go about 3/4 of an inch lower than what i have now
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Old 09-07-2011, 11:33 PM   #7593
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Depends on what you mean by plug and play, if the silvia headlights still have the little harness on the back then yes.

No subharness, then no.

ah, thanks alot. thats helpful. This is coming straight off another s13 so assumming the harness is there it would be the same as changing a flip up headlight? (simply unplug old plug in new?)
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Old 09-07-2011, 11:37 PM   #7594
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ah, thanks alot. thats helpful. This is coming straight off another s13 so assumming the harness is there it would be the same as changing a flip up headlight? (simply unplug old plug in new?)
pretty much. even if the harness isnt there its simple as hell to make if you have a basic grasp for wiring. high beam, low beam, 2 wires from each bulb to the ground wire on the stock headlight harness.
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Old 09-07-2011, 11:41 PM   #7595
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Leave the 3 prong rubber boot connector that plugs into the pop ups. The silvia headlight will plug directly into that.

I use this write up to wire up my yellows.
Projector Wiring Detail (fog lights w/ lowbeams)

If you need help let me know. Or if your not comfortable cutting and soldering yoru harnesses, I can send you a conversion harness I made that wires your yellows the same way as that write up. Just send me your harnesses off your headlights for a core and we can work out a price.
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Old 09-07-2011, 11:46 PM   #7596
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Originally Posted by WakeBHR View Post
Leave the 3 prong rubber boot connector that plugs into the pop ups. The silvia headlight will plug directly into that.

I use this write up to wire up my yellows.
Projector Wiring Detail (fog lights w/ lowbeams)

If you need help let me know. Or if your not comfortable cutting and soldering yoru harnesses, I can send you a conversion harness I made that wires your yellows the same way as that write up. Just send me your harnesses off your headlights for a core and we can work out a price.
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pretty much. even if the harness isnt there its simple as hell to make if you have a basic grasp for wiring. high beam, low beam, 2 wires from each bulb to the ground wire on the stock headlight harness.
awesome! thanks alot guys. I think Im going to try and do the wiring for the fogs by my self just as a learning experience. If not Ill def. contact you wake!
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Old 09-08-2011, 12:09 AM   #7597
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Is the code for that sensor?
yes sir! thats why i wana get it so i can fix that but idk if another nissan could do or so
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Old 09-08-2011, 12:14 AM   #7598
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swear to god that looks exactly like the single cam one.

did the move it back to the airbox on s14's? s13 dohc's its on the intake mani and its just a little thermistor looking thing, like the ect, but tiny.
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Old 09-08-2011, 12:24 AM   #7599
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yes sir! thats why i wana get it so i can fix that but idk if another nissan could do or so
b14 sentra/200sx should work. iirc the part numbers were the same when i replaced one for my 200sx when i had one. (if it makes any difference it was a 96 se-r) if you go on rock auto and look it up you should be able to find a whole list of applications that use the same sensor.
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Old 09-08-2011, 12:51 AM   #7600
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does anyone know if Z32 and S13 interior lock/door handle are interchangeable?
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Old 09-08-2011, 12:53 PM   #7601
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Does anyone know what type of springs these are?

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Old 09-08-2011, 02:01 PM   #7602
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So my cylinders compression is 170,170,153,170. Wiseco pistons, strong bastards.

Could a headgasket issue cause that dip in compression? I doubt my rings are going bad on just 1 cylinder.
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Old 09-08-2011, 03:20 PM   #7603
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yes sir! thats why i wana get it so i can fix that but idk if another nissan could do or so
Hard to make out, Is that the one on the intake or bellow the hood latch?
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So my cylinders compression is 170,170,153,170. Wiseco pistons, strong bastards.

Could a headgasket issue cause that dip in compression? I doubt my rings are going bad on just 1 cylinder.
If you detonated on that cyl you could have only cracked that one ringland. Pull the spark plug and shove a bore scope in there have a look.
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Old 09-08-2011, 03:28 PM   #7604
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Does anyone have a JWT "adjustable" cam gear (for KA), that I can borrow so I can copy it?

I dont have photoshop so I cant get the template I have to the right size.

I will pay shipping both ways and wont need it for more than a week.
i can get you photoshop if you want lol
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Old 09-08-2011, 03:30 PM   #7605
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find out what the contact patch is of your current tire (measured new) and the one you are replacing with. Most accurate for switching it out.

Dunlop Star specs
Azenis 615k
Federal RS

and there are others. start there. sidewalls are only as big as the aspect ration given. example 215(width measured in mm)/ 40 (percent of width)r17 (rim diameter in inches)

good luck.
yeah but its like the same thing as feddy 595s, they have beefier sidewalls even though its 40%

anyways, thanks hammy
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Old 09-08-2011, 03:50 PM   #7606
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Hard to make out, Is that the one on the intake or bellow the hood latch?

If you detonated on that cyl you could have only cracked that one ringland. Pull the spark plug and shove a bore scope in there have a look.
Shit I hope not. I'm not in the mood to rebuild again lol. I'll check it out tmorrow and if i dont see anything I'll ask more questions haha
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Old 09-08-2011, 04:26 PM   #7607
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So my cylinders compression is 170,170,153,170. Wiseco pistons, strong bastards.

Could a headgasket issue cause that dip in compression? I doubt my rings are going bad on just 1 cylinder.
put a little oil in the cylinder and retest that cylinder if it raises your rings need to be done if no its possible to have the head gasket go out but slim chance. if the headgasket was to go then chances are it would be between 2 cylinders more than just on 1 cylinder. the other possiblity is that its a sticking valve.
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Old 09-08-2011, 06:24 PM   #7608
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Why did my oil pressure valve assembly for my KA come with two shims? What are the advantages of increased oil pressure? And how on Earth am I supposed to tighten that assembly to 45 lbs.?
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Old 09-08-2011, 06:39 PM   #7609
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Any of you guys ever rebuild a OS Gilken twin disk, is it complicated or easy? Google didn't help much.
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Old 09-08-2011, 06:58 PM   #7610
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Any of you guys ever rebuild a OS Gilken twin disk, is it complicated or easy? Google didn't help much.
from what it looks like, its pretty complicated

contacting OS Giken themselves would be the best option but from a quick search most people had theirs rebuilt by a shop. someone said it cost him $1130 lol

azn_doc sells em but i dont know if he knows anything about rebuilding em, ask him.
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Old 09-08-2011, 07:27 PM   #7611
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its a Super Single* not a twin disc sorry for the confusion.

I'll send him a PM thanks for the response.
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Old 09-08-2011, 07:36 PM   #7612
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i can get you photoshop if you want lol
Just ordered em from JWT.

Thanks anyway.
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Old 09-08-2011, 10:26 PM   #7613
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has anyone replaced the springs that are on the flip-up head lights? i think thats what causing my headlights to bounce up/down when im on bumpy roads.
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Old 09-09-2011, 03:36 AM   #7614
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So just recently installed my j30 diff on my s14 and I hear a clunk sound come from the diff when I shift quickly but when I shift slow I don't get that clunk. Do I need to put washers anywhere or something on the diff?

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Old 09-09-2011, 11:25 AM   #7615
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While idling either with the a/c on or a/c off, i hear a click from the dash and my idle jumps up and then falls. the cycle is every 10-15 seconds. It doesnt do it everyday but its often enough to become annoying. Anyone have an idea of what it could be?

A/C blows cold when on if that helps any. Just odd that it does it when the a/c is off as well.

Thanks!
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Old 09-09-2011, 01:51 PM   #7616
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looking to get powered by max subframe risers, and was told ill need to adjust my rear coils and get an alignment? just looking for conformation on this, and possibly an estimated cost of an alignment if ones necessary? also, is there any other solid bushings for like the diff or anything i should also replace while the subframe is out?
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Old 09-09-2011, 03:53 PM   #7617
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looking to get powered by max subframe risers, and was told ill need to adjust my rear coils and get an alignment? just looking for conformation on this, and possibly an estimated cost of an alignment if ones necessary? also, is there any other solid bushings for like the diff or anything i should also replace while the subframe is out?
my alignments cost $75-$120 depending on the shop i take it to

yes you need alignment and to adjust the coilovers after install
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Old 09-09-2011, 05:21 PM   #7618
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my alignments cost $75-$120 depending on the shop i take it to

yes you need alignment and to adjust the coilovers after install
not terrible. is adjusting the coils something i do, or the shop does? i bought my car with them on, so i dont know how to adjust them but im sure i can find someone who can.
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Old 09-09-2011, 06:15 PM   #7619
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s13 z32 hub questions

Is anyone using circuit sports 60mm Long Wheel Studs : All New Carbon Steel, if so how long and what if any abuse have u placed on them?

Next question can 350z lug nuts fit z32 hubs?
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Old 09-09-2011, 09:50 PM   #7620
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not terrible. is adjusting the coils something i do, or the shop does? i bought my car with them on, so i dont know how to adjust them but im sure i can find someone who can.
if you didn't get spanner wrenches i suggest you buy them from the company who made your coils. its a tool you will always want

they CAN adjust coilover height depending on the place you take it to, i take mine to specialty alignment shops so they know how to actually do stuff instead of Just Tires guys, but its always better to do it yourself.

Only you can decide how you like your car to sit, they can only guess for you. Adjusting coils, given they arent seized, takes like 45 minutes. When you do do it, put some antiseize on the shock thread and spin the collar over the antiseize to get it nice and in there otherwise it can rust and be impossible to move.
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