12-11-2012, 12:28 PM | #721 |
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Makes sense santos....I see where you are coming from...I am in the process of saving up for a mazworx engine and I am torn between the 2.2 stroker with 89mm bore and the 91mm crank, or the 90mm bore on the stock crank....
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12-11-2012, 12:33 PM | #722 |
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i dont even want to know what you guys are spending at mazworx for a motor. i should just offer my building/assembly services and pump them out!
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12-11-2012, 01:03 PM | #723 |
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The reason I plan on buying from them is mainly due to the fact that they have everything I need all in one place....and more importantly there is no shop near me that I would trust with that level of machining...It is going to be a hefty fee though
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12-11-2012, 04:36 PM | #726 |
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Ya the motor is definitely not cheap and it took me a couple of years to save up in order to buy it. I looked at building it myself but no one near me really had any experience with sr motors and when I talked to different machine shops about performing the work they didn't make me feel very comfortable. So I figured since I wanted to make big power I might as well used a company that knew what they were doing.
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12-11-2012, 04:43 PM | #727 |
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that sucks, i have built all my motors other then installing sleeves in my honda blocks otherwise i did them as i have a thing about others touching my stuff lol
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12-11-2012, 04:47 PM | #728 |
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Ya I understand. I have still yet to completely build a motor so I figured that this probably wasn't the best first motor to do it on.
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12-11-2012, 04:55 PM | #729 |
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read my friend read, the only person i trust with a motor is my dad, lol
we have a aluminum rod motor on the stand right now
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12-11-2012, 05:37 PM | #730 |
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I understand. I read alot but I want to make more than 700whp and I didn't want the motor to grenade on me because I didnt measure something right. The next motor I do I will definitely build myself though.
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12-11-2012, 06:11 PM | #731 |
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I'm with slow92 on this one...I have assembled a ford 302 and have done some assembly on ls engines, but I am not ready to build a 500-600hp SR...so the easiest option is a company like mazworx who has proven results and a good reputation....
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12-11-2012, 08:27 PM | #732 |
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My biggest issue is having all the correct tools to do the assembly. Otherwise, I could handle it. However, I trust someone that does it day in and day out, although it gives them the chance to get complacent, over my lack of experience.
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12-11-2012, 08:39 PM | #733 |
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well they also have all the equipment to test the engines after they are assembles, spin it over and make sure everything is right...I watched a bunch of youtube vids on it the other day
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12-12-2012, 12:41 PM | #734 |
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We still talking about shift lights? If so I run a turboxs knocklite unit which doubles as a knock light. It's just hard to find these for sale anymore.
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12-13-2012, 11:01 PM | #736 |
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So I have been doing allot of research on tires and I have my choices narrowed down to two options....the MT ET street radial, and the hoosier DOT Drag Radial....Still undecided as I have seen recommendations for both tire...What do yall have to say about them??
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12-13-2012, 11:10 PM | #737 |
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This is just my opinion Briou, but there is hardly any reason at all to use a radial. I know it's street legal and all but you can drive to the strip with true slicks in the back and bolt them up onsite if need be. It's a whole different ball game with real slicks. They almost give a cushion too, when the walls wrinkle.
I just decided personally that dot tires are a waste. If your going to be riding around on the roads all the time I guess I understand if you just have to have max traction everyday, but then again that doesn't make much sense either lol. |
12-13-2012, 11:27 PM | #738 |
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I see what you are saying but where I am from the track is open one day a week but we race when the track is closed, if you catch my drift....I am definitely sticking with a radial for the safety benefit of driving on the street...and I am leaning towards the MT's on account of them having more tread in case I happen to get caught in the rain.
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12-13-2012, 11:45 PM | #739 | |
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12-14-2012, 07:00 AM | #740 |
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MT's are the only radial I've ever owned and they are good for a radial.
Let me stress this to you, DO NOT get caught in the rain. Point blank period. Absolutely no way in hell you will not wreck. I had people blowing horns at red lights because i literally could not get my car going. It would spin in second gear but barely get rolling and then eventually kick sideways and i had to just pull over. I would almost bet you money that you will only buy one pair of radials before 1.) You realize just driving to the strip will eat them to pieces. And 2.) For the small amount of time it takes to swap them out at the track, slicks are the way to go and they last longer AND they're just a better tire for drag. |
12-14-2012, 07:33 AM | #741 |
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never ran a drag radial in any of my RWD cars but i did run 3 sets in my built all motor honda and turbo integra. I ran BFG's and loved them. everyone complains that they only get 2-3k out of them but its all in how you drive and tire pressure. i would get 7-10k out of them. they suck when wet so if your worried about wet conditions ill stay away from a radial and get a good street tire and swap to slicks for days you want to hook
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12-14-2012, 08:27 AM | #742 | ||||
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I am going 90mm, 9:1 compression CP pistons on the stock crank. Not using my car for drag though.
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12-14-2012, 09:19 AM | #743 |
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Foreign: I have a set of MT Drag radials on the car now, I drive to and from the track once a week...I got caught in the rain the first time I drove on the tires...came up on some water over a bridge on the interstate and spun off the road....I have since learned how to drive in the rain on the MT's and have successfully driven from Starkville to Bay St. Louis, MS...a 268mile drive in the pouring rain....with no problem at all....I just had to take it a little slower....so you would loose that bet....I know what I am getting into...just wanted opinions on the two tires....
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12-14-2012, 10:08 AM | #744 |
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The ET Streets are a good tire. I used to do a lot of street racing along side my buddy with a twin turbo mustang. He ran these tires and they were awesome from a roll, and if he went from a dig he would do a quick burnout to clean them off and heat them up a little bit. They are definitely going to be the tire I put on my drag lites for track use.
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12-14-2012, 10:07 PM | #745 |
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IMO you're also more likely to break stuff on a radial. I just drive to the track on me ET Street bias ply. Then again I only live 10 miles from the track. I just bring a 5 gallon air tank with me and when I leave I fill them back up to 20-25 psi to drive home on.
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12-14-2012, 11:03 PM | #746 |
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I'm only making 350 to the wheels now so I'm not all that worried about breaking stuff...but i see where you are coming from...the bias ply slicks are much more forgiving, and much easier to get to hook, but at the same time they induce more parasitic drag on the top end which hurts ET and trap speed....
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12-15-2012, 07:37 AM | #747 |
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We do a fair amount of drag racing locally, and while at the Track I saw a guy with a S14 SR20 2871r at 12psi snap his trans input shaft while running some ET Street radials, he couldn't have been making even 300whp. Maybe it was a freak thing but I've launched 50+ times on similar power without a hiccup.
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12-15-2012, 11:59 AM | #749 | |
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Sounds like wheel hop and busted bushings
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12-15-2012, 09:52 PM | #750 |
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Briou, I wasn't trying to talk down to you with my opinions. Just giving advice. If you are going with radials, I have heard nothing but good things about MT's, but as with everything else, I've also heard good things about every other name brand tire too.
As far as driving 200+ miles in the rain... I don't care how good you think you are at driving on slicks in the rain, I've driven in the rain with drag tires and I know exactly how they react. Not only is it absolutely ignorant, but you're endangering innocent lives so that you don't have to change ten lug nuts and swap some tires over. Not cool, but "you know what your getting into"... |
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