This is the roll center, suspension pickup, and steering angle modification thread.

[2_Liter_Turbo]

Originally Posted by GKTECH

We may have not had another set at the time as during the first few batches they were all sold out pre buy.

The V3 does rotate the caliper further around. Send me an email to [email protected] with the specifics on your setup and we'll see if they'll assist however either way swapping them over is no issue at all.

Regards,
Greg

Will do Greg, thanks. You guys have always been excellent with communication.

[sr vegas 240]

So i just put the gktech roll center correction kit on and have few issues the bottom bolt on my pillow ball style outer tie rod hits the flca. I already cut off the bump stops. Should i be using oem type outer tie rod? Other not really an issue but i know for sure its not installed right offset rack spacers. Which way should they be pointing towards front of the car or towards the rear? i will cut the tabs off and line it up straight. Pictures will explain better what i am talking about.

[PoorMans180SX]

The offset rack spacers point towards the front. Yours are just on the wrong sides of the rack. Switch them around and they should fit fine.

I would use an oem type tie rod end. Those that you have are famous for breaking shanks, and you don't need the bumpsteer correction.

[e30gangsta]

On my gk tech rc correction I used the non offset rack spacers, is there a big benefit to the offset rack spacers instead of the non offset ones?

[PoorMans180SX]

Originally Posted by e30gangsta

On my gk tech rc correction I used the non offset rack spacers, is there a big benefit to the offset rack spacers instead of the non offset ones?

Just that you can run more caster without overcentering if that's what you're into.

[sr vegas 240]

Originally Posted by PoorMans180SX

The offset rack spacers point towards the front. Yours are just on the wrong sides of the rack. Switch them around and they should fit fine.

I would use an oem type tie rod end. Those that you have are famous for breaking shanks, and you don't need the bumpsteer correction.

I have tried them every way possible they either point towards the ground or up in the air it's an s13 so I got the s13 spacers but turns out someone put s14 rack in it. So I will have to cut the tabs off.

[derass]

If you cut those tabs off they will not keep their position once tightened. You would have to weld the spacers to the rack to keep them in position. A friend of mine did the same when he ripped the threads out of the rack at at track day.

[sr vegas 240]

Ok will weld them back on and thanks for the heads up.

[PoorMans180SX]

Actually my offset tie rod brackets don't have tabs on them, and they've held fine, you just need lots of red loctite. The rack only gets damaged when the bolts come loose.

[LuckyX2]

Originally Posted by 2_Liter_Turbo

Will do Greg, thanks. You guys have always been excellent with communication.

Seconded. There was a minor mix-up with my order and Greg was in constant contact until it was resolved

[e30gangsta]

Originally Posted by PoorMans180SX

Just that you can run more caster without overcentering if that's what you're into.

Yea, im already at the max caster on my arms anyways. Unless I go and pull off the nuts which Im not going to do. Thanks for the explanation.

[GKTECH]

Originally Posted by sr vegas 240

So i just put the gktech roll center correction kit on and have few issues the bottom bolt on my pillow ball style outer tie rod hits the flca. I already cut off the bump stops. Should i be using oem type outer tie rod? Other not really an issue but i know for sure its not installed right offset rack spacers. Which way should they be pointing towards front of the car or towards the rear? i will cut the tabs off and line it up straight. Pictures will explain better what i am talking about.

Looking at your photos I can see a few more issues. You have used the washer for the ball joint between the tie rod shank to mount on the knuckle. This washer is for the top of the ball joint. I can also see that presumably as a result of this that there is not enough thread engagement of the nut holding the tie rod shank in.

See the attached and if you have any questions, please feel free to contact us directly at [email protected]

[godrifttoday]

Anyone else have to notch the steering rack where the offset spacers go? I contacted Greg he said just to notch them with a grinder so they can point horizontal

[PoorMans180SX]

Originally Posted by godrifttoday

Anyone else have to notch the steering rack where the offset spacers go? I contacted Greg he said just to notch them with a grinder so they can point horizontal

I had to do this with the PSM ones. Moving my rack forward soon so I don't have to worry about it anymore.

[sr vegas 240]

Originally Posted by GKTECH

Looking at your photos I can see a few more issues. You have used the washer for the ball joint between the tie rod shank to mount on the knuckle. This washer is for the top of the ball joint. I can also see that presumably as a result of this that there is not enough thread engagement of the nut holding the tie rod shank in.

See the attached and if you have any questions, please feel free to contact us directly at [email protected]

Yes I noticed That I had to put that spacer in there because there was a gap . I may possibly have different knuckles not stock s13 ones but I have sold the kit no longer have it getting some drop knuckles any recommendations

[GKTECH]

Originally Posted by sr vegas 240

Yes I noticed That I had to put that spacer in there because there was a gap . I may possibly have different knuckles not stock s13 ones but I have sold the kit no longer have it getting some drop knuckles any recommendations

If there was a gap it would be because you had S14 knuckles and your RC correction kit was the S13 version. The tie rod mount on the knuckles differs slightly between the 2 different models (hence we make 2 different models).

Are you only using the car for drift? What you plan on using the car for will help determine what knuckles best suit your car/setup.

[ka-titties]

Hah that was fast.

[sr vegas 240]

Originally Posted by GKTECH

If there was a gap it would be because you had S14 knuckles and your RC correction kit was the S13 version. The tie rod mount on the knuckles differs slightly between the 2 different models (hence we make 2 different models).

Are you only using the car for drift? What you plan on using the car for will help determine what knuckles best suit your car/setup.

yeah figured it's different knuckle. I only use it for drifting.

[GKTECH]

Originally Posted by sr vegas 240

yeah figured it's different knuckle. I only use it for drifting.

We will have our V3 front knuckle available from the US warehouse in around 3 weeks time which has a shorter steering arm over our V2 for faster steering aswell as less ackerman. The V3 will max out at around 70 degrees (V2 maxed out at around 65). The V3 is specifically for drift cars where as the V2 is perfectly fine for either drift or grip.

[sr vegas 240]

That sounds good what will the price be any other parts required

[Bnr32gtr]

So today I removed the helper springs from my coilovers fronts worked out as planned. I had high hopes of tucking rim in rear and failed terribly! Rear is now higher than what it was with out the helper spring!??? I have hks hyper max 3 coil overs,gk drop knuckles,and sub frame risers wtf I was 1 1/4" from tucking now at 2" I pretty shore its because I pre loaded the spring? When I droop the spring car will go lower till I hit on pich weld with ruca. I have shitty ones do better ones have move clearance somehow? Or cut the pitch weld or what am I doing wrong?

[PoorMans180SX]

Cut the pinch weld out and droop the spring.

[Bnr32gtr]

Thanks man I'm gonna cut it out in the morning. Do better arms have more clearance? When I was out there I Measure looked like Id still be like 3/8" to the top of rim. I see folks tucking with 18s and -1* camber but now I don't see how it is possible.

[sr vegas 240]

Originally Posted by GKTECH

We will have our V3 front knuckle available from the US warehouse in around 3 weeks time which has a shorter steering arm over our V2 for faster steering aswell as less ackerman. The V3 will max out at around 70 degrees (V2 maxed out at around 65). The V3 is specifically for drift cars where as the V2 is perfectly fine for either drift or grip.

Any more info on this price? When it will be available?

[az_240]

Originally Posted by Bnr32gtr

Thanks man I'm gonna cut it out in the morning. Do better arms have more clearance? When I was out there I Measure looked like Id still be like 3/8" to the top of rim. I see folks tucking with 18s and -1* camber but now I don't see how it is possible.

Just cut slits in it and hammer it flat then hit it with a little paint to keep it from rusting. Pretty much anyone that's low has to do this with S14.

[PoorMans180SX]

Originally Posted by Bnr32gtr

Thanks man I'm gonna cut it out in the morning. Do better arms have more clearance? When I was out there I Measure looked like Id still be like 3/8" to the top of rim. I see folks tucking with 18s and -1* camber but now I don't see how it is possible.

Yeah better arms are bent for more clearance.

[Bnr32gtr]

Thanks for the help boys! Tucking like a boss and going to buy some better arms tonight ether gk tech or voodoo 13 Prob gk tech cuz of cost but they don't seam like they have lot adjustment. Any input?

[az_240]

^I'll find out soon enough.. replacing my PBM RUCA's with GKtech since they rub on the axle boots a little with the PBM rear knuckles. RUCA are a tricky thing with drop knuckles. I've had a few that just didn't work out for various reasons.

[dazed]

I should have waited for PBM's new forged rear knuckles. They finally support drum e-brake. They basically did it how the Driftworks/Era 1's are, how they mount on opposite sides and are flipped upside down.

[az_240]

Looks like they updated a few things including their RUCA... The toe control bracket is interesting.

http://www.partsshopmax.com/page.php?39