91 S13 Hatch First build 15 years old - Page 20 - Zilvia.net Forums | Nissan 240SX (Silvia) and Z (Fairlady) Car Forum

Malik · 03-08-2016, 03:05 PM

good read thanks... post more pics

futures14drift · 03-08-2016, 07:55 PM

Got new tires been having a blast running about 18 lbs of boost and all of a sudden it dies on me and wont start seems like it is starving for something but it has fuel and spark. anyone have any ideas it cranks over but i can hear that its not right i can post a video tomorrow. thanks if anyone helps out

futures14drift · 03-09-2016, 05:43 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dev71893

Glad you figured it out

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks man, but the car just died on me last night and i cant get it to start now... seems like the motor is starving for something ...

mr.nismo. · 03-09-2016, 01:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by futures14drift

Thanks man, but the car just died on me last night and i cant get it to start now... seems like the motor is starving for something ...

Starving for fuel or spark? A wideband helps too

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

futures14drift · 03-09-2016, 10:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dev71893

Glad you figured it out

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

So was I ... until the motor blew yesterday it shut off and wouldnt start again so i did a quick compression test:
Cylinder 1: 120 PSI
Cylinder 2: 0 PSI
Cylinder 3: 120 PSI
Cylinder 4: 60 PSI

So obviously knowing what was wrong today after school i got to pulling the motor out. 4 hours later and its out:
[IMG]

[IMG]

[url=https://flic.kr/p/EXw26K]
[IMG]

[url=https://flic.kr/p/F4oPo9]

So i already have a built head and it was a stock block, I am debating if i should rebuild the motor or get a new short block or possibly a full motor. The short block will be built to hold 400-500 hp i have been looking at graveyard custom engines if anyone has anything to say about them please let me know?

http://www.graveyardmotorsports.com/product_p/gm%2098-5130.htm

I am open to all opinions and thoughts on my best option here...

Also have a Doc Race bottom mount with ISR 3871 turbo and the AN fittings and a ISR downpipe too .... for sale if anyone is interested i want to go top mount with a gtx.

Update to come, might change the bay color.

futures14drift · 03-10-2016, 09:59 AM

Anybody have any thoughts on the graveyard motorsports blocks? I am reading to see whats best but id like to get the ball rolling soon so i can get it back in the car as soon as possible.

hanzbrady · 03-10-2016, 10:36 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by futures14drift

Anybody have any thoughts on the graveyard motorsports blocks? I am reading to see whats best but id like to get the ball rolling soon so i can get it back in the car as soon as possible.

So I've never personally heard of their company or seen their products, but at their prices they're cutting some serious corners somewhere and they have very vague product descriptions. Just to compare our Stage 1 SR20det short block runs a little over $4,000 and is rated to a safe 400hp. Sure it's more expensive but if it's all in the details. I'd advise to do things right and not jump on the cheapest price you can find.

futures14drift · 03-10-2016, 12:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by hanzbrady

So I've never personally heard of their company or seen their products, but at their prices they're cutting some serious corners somewhere and they have very vague product descriptions. Just to compare our Stage 1 SR20det short block runs a little over $4,000 and is rated to a safe 400hp. Sure it's more expensive but if it's all in the details. I'd advise to do things right and not jump on the cheapest price you can find.

Thank you. I was just looking for someone with some knowledge to comment... I am going to make sure i make the right decision here.

hanzbrady · 03-10-2016, 12:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by futures14drift

Thank you. I was just looking for someone with some knowledge to comment... I am going to make sure i make the right decision here.

No problem man, if you want some more detailed quotes on parts or help possibly putting a block together email us!

Crazyced · 03-10-2016, 02:03 PM

Do you have a wideband? Make sure you figure out what went wrong before running a new block. Assuming the other one just gave out may be costly.

I don't like how your MAF is right after a pretty tight bend. This can screw up readings.

futures14drift · 03-10-2016, 03:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Crazyced

Do you have a wideband? Make sure you figure out what went wrong before running a new block. Assuming the other one just gave out may be costly.

I don't like how your MAF is right after a pretty tight bend. This can screw up readings.

I do have a wideband, and yes very good point.. I will not be buying anything till i know. I don't have a MAF, the car runs on a GM MAP sensor. What is the easiest way to know what exactly went wrong? I can tear the head off the motor and go from there?

hanzbrady · 03-10-2016, 05:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by futures14drift

I do have a wideband, and yes very good point.. I will not be buying anything till i know. I don't have a MAF, the car runs on a GM MAP sensor. What is the easiest way to know what exactly went wrong? I can tear the head off the motor and go from there?

Well, no or low compression screams that it's a ring issue in the bottom end. So regardless you'll have to pull the head to check that out. And once you tear everything down and inspect it you'll know what you have to rebuild with.

hanzbrady · 03-10-2016, 05:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by hanzbrady

Well, no or low compression screams that it's a ring issue in the bottom end. So regardless you'll have to pull the head to check that out. And once you tear everything down and inspect it you'll know what you have to rebuild with.

If I had the make a very broad guess and go on the assumption that he car was running 100% before it blew I'd say that you cracked a ring land from your rings not being gapped enough for the boost that you were running.

vJilly · 03-10-2016, 06:39 PM

Hmmm. it blowing up because of 18psi doesnt sound right. I can think of 4 locals off the top of my head that run their SR, on 18 with a 3871/2871r would look more into the data log of aem and see if you spiked or something like that. could also be a tune issue. ton of locals use RS Enthalpy ECU, including myself and its great.

hanzbrady · 03-10-2016, 06:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vJilly

Hmmm. it blowing up because of 18psi doesnt sound right. I can think of 4 locals off the top of my head that run their SR, on 18 with a 3871/2871r would look more into the data log of aem and see if you spiked or something like that. could also be a tune issue. ton of locals use RS Enthalpy ECU, including myself and its great.

I'm just going off of the assumptions that the short block is stock (correct me if I'm wrong) and in my opinion the stock ring gap is too small for anything around 20psi, especially if you're going to run it hard and have the ring packs heat up and possibly touch which causes them to break hence why you have wider ring gap on race motors. We have to remember that these parts are 20+ years old and things wear out, like the small brittle ring lands on the oem cast pistons. All in all what I'm trying to say is that what's probably broken and causing the loss of compression is this, the cause would be in data, or just could be old parts being passed their prime. Regardless a good direction to go would be tearing the block down and seeing if the core block is usable. From there you can decide to try a hone, sleeving your block, or going all out and buying a new one.

vJilly · 03-10-2016, 06:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by hanzbrady

I'm just going off of the assumptions that the short block is stock (correct me if I'm wrong) and in my opinion the stock ring gap is too small for anything around 20psi, especially if you're going to run it hard and have the ring packs heat up and possibly touch which causes them to break hence why you have wider ring gap on race motors. We have to remember that these parts are 20+ years old and things wear out, like the small brittle ring lands on the oem cast pistons. All in all what I'm trying to say is that what's probably broken and causing the loss of compression is this, the cause would be in data, or just could be old parts being passed their prime. Regardless a good direction to go would be tearing the block down and seeing if the core block is usable. From there you can decide to try a hone, sleeving your block, or going all out and buying a new one.

I see what you're saying and completely agree to an extent. But maintenance and also proper cooling could come into play. all in all we wont know what truly happened till he rips it apart or whatever. I can think of one guy who ran his SR at 400hp for 4 years beating the shit out of it and never had issues. I guess it depends on how much of a unicorn you get. nonetheless it sucks for em, and can just only hope it doesnt happen to me cause i plan to run a 18psi haha

hanzbrady · 03-10-2016, 06:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vJilly

I see what you're saying and completely agree to an extent. But maintenance and also proper cooling could come into play. all in all we wont know what truly happened till he rips it apart or whatever. I can think of one guy who ran his SR at 400hp for 4 years beating the shit out of it and never had issues. I guess it depends on how much of a unicorn you get. nonetheless it sucks for em, and can just only hope it doesnt happen to me cause i plan to run a 18psi haha

I totally agree on the maintenance point, that's 10/10 the reason my last SR blew up. An engine is only as good as its maintained. And as for as the unicorn statement, it's also totally true I've seen stockies make 500hp and I've seen plenty die at 250hp, that's why I decided to just go out and do forged internals on my build haha.

vJilly · 03-10-2016, 07:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by hanzbrady

I totally agree on the maintenance point, that's 10/10 the reason my last SR blew up. An engine is only as good as its maintained. And as for as the unicorn statement, it's also totally true I've seen stockies make 500hp and I've seen plenty die at 250hp, that's why I decided to just go out and do forged internals on my build haha.

I've decided if my sr makes it more than 2 years of it being raped daily im gonna forge it and do a topmount... otherwise its JZ time, im a ka-t guy but bought my SR for dumb cheap.

futures14drift · 03-10-2016, 07:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by hanzbrady

I'm just going off of the assumptions that the short block is stock (correct me if I'm wrong) and in my opinion the stock ring gap is too small for anything around 20psi, especially if you're going to run it hard and have the ring packs heat up and possibly touch which causes them to break hence why you have wider ring gap on race motors. We have to remember that these parts are 20+ years old and things wear out, like the small brittle ring lands on the oem cast pistons. All in all what I'm trying to say is that what's probably broken and causing the loss of compression is this, the cause would be in data, or just could be old parts being passed their prime. Regardless a good direction to go would be tearing the block down and seeing if the core block is usable. From there you can decide to try a hone, sleeving your block, or going all out and buying a new one.

Stock block yes, built head... I just got the valve cover off now. Granite State Dyno and Tune in NH tuned the car and installed 2 rocker arms in like July.... The same rocker arms that they replaced have broken once again. I feel like there was also something wrong with the tune... But now i am going to take the head off and take a look at the block. I really still don't know if i should take this motor to a machine shop or buy a new block and fix the head or whatever.. If anyone with some knowledge has any ideas i'm listening. Right now i have a ISIS RS3871 and i can still keep that but if i can sell that with the DOC Race manifold i will go top mount and run a GTX... I will upload pics when i get home from the shop.

gbaby2089 · 03-10-2016, 08:03 PM

Good gosh, the blind leading the blind here.

futures14drift · 03-10-2016, 08:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gbaby2089

Good gosh, the blind leading the blind here.

Well if thats all you have to say why bother...

futures14drift · 03-10-2016, 08:17 PM

Ripped the main harness and almost everything else out of the bay to change up the color while i can.
[IMG]

[url=https://flic.kr/p/F6F3ZJ]

[IMG]

[url=https://flic.kr/p/EFpg79]

[IMG]

[url=https://flic.kr/p/EXuKdW]

[IMG]

[url=https://flic.kr/p/EbgAjb]

[IMG]

[url=https://flic.kr/p/EFpfdf]

Major key right here
[IMG]

[url=https://flic.kr/p/EbAYKp]

hanzbrady · 03-11-2016, 07:14 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by futures14drift

Stock block yes, built head... I just got the valve cover off now. Granite State Dyno and Tune in NH tuned the car and installed 2 rocker arms in like July.... The same rocker arms that they replaced have broken once again. I feel like there was also something wrong with the tune... But now i am going to take the head off and take a look at the block. I really still don't know if i should take this motor to a machine shop or buy a new block and fix the head or whatever.. If anyone with some knowledge has any ideas i'm listening. Right now i have a ISIS RS3871 and i can still keep that but if i can sell that with the DOC Race manifold i will go top mount and run a GTX... I will upload pics when i get home from the shop.

If you're consistently snapping rocker arms it sound likes whoever built your head didn't check to see if they were shimmed level. That or you rev the piss out of it. If I were in your shoes I'd ditch the rocker stoppers you're running for at least a dual guide setup, this way your rockers will sit level and be able to just throw off if something happens instead of being stuck on the valves possibly hanging them open. We run the dual guide conversion is Kelsey Rowlings engine in case you wanted to see it working in practice, not just theory. As for deciding on buying a new block, don't pull any triggers until you see the condition of your internals.

futures14drift · 03-13-2016, 12:49 AM

Making some good progress friday and saturday night working on the car. I am going to have the motor rebuilt at Precision Machine and Balance in NH, so ive been stripping it down getting ready to send it there. I am going to take off the rocker arm stoppers for this next build for sure and lower the rev limiter a little bit. I am going to try to get a Garrett gtx turbo but i'd like to go top mount too so only if i can sell my bottom mount doc race and the ISR 3871.. here are some pics.

[IMG]

[url=https://flic.kr/p/FbRuuG]

[IMG]

[url=https://flic.kr/p/EgMtG2]

Been sanding the bay too.. i plan to respray it a different color while i have the time. I am also looking into Chasebays brake boost eliminator kit...

Sanding with 180 grit then 220 to 400 for primer.
[IMG]

[url=https://flic.kr/p/FbRuCs]

Also got a chance to bring my front bumper into my school to fix it during shop week. Im a senior now and will be graduating soon but luckily got to do this fiberglass work with my teacher. Will have finished pics monday/tuesday.
[IMG]

[url=https://flic.kr/p/FbRweo]

Also never posted much of my tools heres a nice wrench drawer picture i had.
[IMG]

[url=https://flic.kr/p/ELzMiG]

futures14drift · 03-13-2016, 01:09 AM

Picture of me on my Yamaha R6 too i thought i should share.. If anyone follows me on instagram theres lots of bike pics and videos but now i get to post cool pics of having the motor out and stuff too lol

[IMG]

[url=https://flic.kr/p/EJ4ThU]

futures14drift · 03-16-2016, 11:25 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by crzsteveo

ill be here in a few months waiting for the partout when he drifts it lol.

if you really just wanted to drift, you wasted all this time and money. its okay to buy the SR but you should of started drifting with the KA until it blew up. you don't need a license to drift. kits, paint, all this other crap is unnecessary.

all you need was to weld your diff and get spares. that's it. now youll be starting on a platform you have no idea how it handles because its to advance for a beginner and all I see and many other members on here is that you will struggle with getting it to drift.

Still waiting for that partout huh

GojiraCometh · 03-16-2016, 02:17 PM

Good for you man, awesome job so far. When I was 16 I bought my first 240sx and riced it up and learned everything on my own as I went, and you know what... do what you want, don't listen to all these expert d1 drift champions on here, chances are more than 50% of them were hardcore ricers back in the day, so either way you look at it you have a head start on them there.

With that said, you gotta stop doing dangerous ish on the motorcycles homie. One slip up is all it takes and bam... brains all over the road.

futures14drift · 03-17-2016, 07:39 AM

Got the motor dropped off at the machine shop and out of the way. Been working on the engine bay some more, removed the brake booster, windshield wiper motor, all the brake lines, and i have removed the brackets for the brake line to the caliper because i need to do some rust repair on both sides where the brake lines meet. Going to take care of this rust before it gets worse because its not all that bad yet.

I will post more pictures tonight but im in school and cant access flickr.
Getting ready to prime the bare metal spots in the bay and then i can spray basecoat. My Collision repair skills have improved quite a lot and it will show in this paint job.

futures14drift · 03-19-2016, 11:11 AM

Been doing some rust repair getting ready to paint the bay, and also went to my local supplier to get some paint to spray.

Quick template i made to get it right.
[IMG]

[url=https://flic.kr/p/EuYunR]

[IMG]

20160318_215017 by [email protected], on Flickr[/IMG]

[IMG]

[url=https://flic.kr/p/EZYoU9]

[IMG]

[url=https://flic.kr/p/FgRQQh]
[IMG]

[url=https://flic.kr/p/Fj9bC8]
[IMG]

[url=https://flic.kr/p/FswPf8]

[IMG]

[url=https://flic.kr/p/EuYvDt]
Some of the stuff i grabbed today. Prepsol, basecoat, reducer, clearcoat, and a high build primer for some bare metal spots. Within the next year or so i am going to respray the outside of the car myself.. need to do some body work on it that i should have before i got it sprayed at Maaco.
[IMG]

[url=https://flic.kr/p/EuYvhM]

futures14drift · 03-19-2016, 11:32 PM

Tonight i undercoated both wheel wells, and painted the brake lines and clutch line black while i had them out. Tomorrow im going to hit the bay with 400 grit and also paint the brake booster. I dont know if i should re wrap the whole thing in gold heat tape or not.. opinions are welcome.

Just waiting on my spray gun in the mail after this and i can start reassembling the engine bay accessories then i will just be waiting on the motor to drop it back in and start the break in process. Also need to do a few wheel bearings before then.
Thanks for reading will have pics tomorrow.

03-10-2016, 08:17 PM	#592
futures14drift Zilvia Member Join Date: Nov 2012 Location: Massachusetts Age: 30 Posts: 277 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	Ripped the main harness and almost everything else out of the bay to change up the color while i can. [IMG][url=https://flic.kr/p/F6F3ZJ] [IMG][url=https://flic.kr/p/EFpg79] [IMG][url=https://flic.kr/p/EXuKdW] [IMG][url=https://flic.kr/p/EbgAjb] [IMG][url=https://flic.kr/p/EFpfdf] Major key right here [IMG][url=https://flic.kr/p/EbAYKp]

03-13-2016, 12:49 AM	#594
futures14drift Zilvia Member Join Date: Nov 2012 Location: Massachusetts Age: 30 Posts: 277 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	Making some good progress friday and saturday night working on the car. I am going to have the motor rebuilt at Precision Machine and Balance in NH, so ive been stripping it down getting ready to send it there. I am going to take off the rocker arm stoppers for this next build for sure and lower the rev limiter a little bit. I am going to try to get a Garrett gtx turbo but i'd like to go top mount too so only if i can sell my bottom mount doc race and the ISR 3871.. here are some pics. [IMG][url=https://flic.kr/p/FbRuuG] [IMG][url=https://flic.kr/p/EgMtG2] Been sanding the bay too.. i plan to respray it a different color while i have the time. I am also looking into Chasebays brake boost eliminator kit... Sanding with 180 grit then 220 to 400 for primer. [IMG][url=https://flic.kr/p/FbRuCs] Also got a chance to bring my front bumper into my school to fix it during shop week. Im a senior now and will be graduating soon but luckily got to do this fiberglass work with my teacher. Will have finished pics monday/tuesday. [IMG][url=https://flic.kr/p/FbRweo] Also never posted much of my tools heres a nice wrench drawer picture i had. [IMG][url=https://flic.kr/p/ELzMiG]

03-13-2016, 01:09 AM	#595
futures14drift Zilvia Member Join Date: Nov 2012 Location: Massachusetts Age: 30 Posts: 277 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	Picture of me on my Yamaha R6 too i thought i should share.. If anyone follows me on instagram theres lots of bike pics and videos but now i get to post cool pics of having the motor out and stuff too lol [IMG][url=https://flic.kr/p/EJ4ThU]

03-19-2016, 11:11 AM	#599
futures14drift Zilvia Member Join Date: Nov 2012 Location: Massachusetts Age: 30 Posts: 277 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	Been doing some rust repair getting ready to paint the bay, and also went to my local supplier to get some paint to spray. Quick template i made to get it right. [IMG][url=https://flic.kr/p/EuYunR] [IMG]20160318_215017 by [email protected], on Flickr[/IMG] [IMG][url=https://flic.kr/p/EZYoU9] [IMG][url=https://flic.kr/p/FgRQQh] [IMG][url=https://flic.kr/p/Fj9bC8] [IMG][url=https://flic.kr/p/FswPf8] [IMG][url=https://flic.kr/p/EuYvDt] Some of the stuff i grabbed today. Prepsol, basecoat, reducer, clearcoat, and a high build primer for some bare metal spots. Within the next year or so i am going to respray the outside of the car myself.. need to do some body work on it that i should have before i got it sprayed at Maaco. [IMG][url=https://flic.kr/p/EuYvhM] Last edited by futures14drift; 03-19-2016 at 11:30 PM..

03-08-2016, 03:05 PM	#571
Malik Nissanaholic! Join Date: Jun 2013 Location: Queens, NY Posts: 1,796 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	good read thanks... post more pics

03-08-2016, 07:55 PM	#572
futures14drift Zilvia Member Join Date: Nov 2012 Location: Massachusetts Age: 30 Posts: 277 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	Got new tires been having a blast running about 18 lbs of boost and all of a sudden it dies on me and wont start seems like it is starving for something but it has fuel and spark. anyone have any ideas it cranks over but i can hear that its not right i can post a video tomorrow. thanks if anyone helps out

03-10-2016, 09:59 AM	#576
futures14drift Zilvia Member Join Date: Nov 2012 Location: Massachusetts Age: 30 Posts: 277 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	Anybody have any thoughts on the graveyard motorsports blocks? I am reading to see whats best but id like to get the ball rolling soon so i can get it back in the car as soon as possible.

03-10-2016, 02:03 PM	#580
Crazyced Zilvia Junkie Join Date: Apr 2015 Location: Ottawa Posts: 380 Trader Rating: (1) Feedback Score: 1 reviews	Do you have a wideband? Make sure you figure out what went wrong before running a new block. Assuming the other one just gave out may be costly. I don't like how your MAF is right after a pretty tight bend. This can screw up readings.

03-10-2016, 08:03 PM	#590
gbaby2089 Zilvia Addict Join Date: Oct 2010 Location: WI Posts: 833 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	Good gosh, the blind leading the blind here.

03-16-2016, 02:17 PM	#597
GojiraCometh Join Date: Feb 2016 Location: Queens, NY Age: 40 Posts: 11 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	Good for you man, awesome job so far. When I was 16 I bought my first 240sx and riced it up and learned everything on my own as I went, and you know what... do what you want, don't listen to all these expert d1 drift champions on here, chances are more than 50% of them were hardcore ricers back in the day, so either way you look at it you have a head start on them there. With that said, you gotta stop doing dangerous ish on the motorcycles homie. One slip up is all it takes and bam... brains all over the road.

03-17-2016, 07:39 AM	#598
futures14drift Zilvia Member Join Date: Nov 2012 Location: Massachusetts Age: 30 Posts: 277 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	Got the motor dropped off at the machine shop and out of the way. Been working on the engine bay some more, removed the brake booster, windshield wiper motor, all the brake lines, and i have removed the brackets for the brake line to the caliper because i need to do some rust repair on both sides where the brake lines meet. Going to take care of this rust before it gets worse because its not all that bad yet. I will post more pictures tonight but im in school and cant access flickr. Getting ready to prime the bare metal spots in the bay and then i can spray basecoat. My Collision repair skills have improved quite a lot and it will show in this paint job.

03-19-2016, 11:32 PM	#600
futures14drift Zilvia Member Join Date: Nov 2012 Location: Massachusetts Age: 30 Posts: 277 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	Tonight i undercoated both wheel wells, and painted the brake lines and clutch line black while i had them out. Tomorrow im going to hit the bay with 400 grit and also paint the brake booster. I dont know if i should re wrap the whole thing in gold heat tape or not.. opinions are welcome. Just waiting on my spray gun in the mail after this and i can start reassembling the engine bay accessories then i will just be waiting on the motor to drop it back in and start the break in process. Also need to do a few wheel bearings before then. Thanks for reading will have pics tomorrow.