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Tech Talk Technical Discussion About The Nissan 240SX and Nissan Z Cars |
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12-03-2009, 06:30 PM | #31 | |
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Quote:
YouTube - NISMO KNIGHTS @ BOTI 2009 FONTANA next time try to preload the car before launching it, to get all the slack out of the drivetrain so you dont shock it..
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07-26-2010, 05:20 PM | #32 |
Zilvia FREAK!
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new follow up...........
i made a nice pass this season. went 11.2 @ 121mph. had a 1.56 60' car now makes 380whp on a mustang dyno mods are: port polised s13 head kelford step 3 cams everything else supertec brian crower 2.3 stroker gt2876r @ 18 psi (internal wastegate) stock susp. sub frame spacers 300zx manual trans 1 piece drive shaft dss 600hp axels 1.5way carbonetics lsd launch set at 4900 tires at 16 psi air temp at the track was 97 F new goal is to hit 10's without touching the motor. maybe new final drive or wait for a colder night? suggestions are welcome.
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WORLDS FASTEST T-2 TURBO 240 ON 93 OCTANE! 10.79 @ 124 MPH WITH A 1.48 60' |
07-27-2010, 09:49 AM | #33 |
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Those are nice numbers. What size tire are you running now? I would try to get some adjustable coils to help you fine tune the launch. Your 60' is good but I think it can be lowered a bit. You'll lose MPH on the top end but your ET will show. My IRS friends (Im running a solid axle in my 240) gained by getting some adjustable RUCA's. We dialed it in to run the rear wheels flat during squat, it helped alot. Your power should be good enough for 10's with a good 60".
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07-27-2010, 09:50 PM | #34 |
Zilvia FREAK!
Join Date: Mar 2007
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yea i think that it needed to be cooler out too to get get a lower time. i might go to the track this weekend and ill report back.
im in the black car. YouTube - sherrodsmith22's Channel
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WORLDS FASTEST T-2 TURBO 240 ON 93 OCTANE! 10.79 @ 124 MPH WITH A 1.48 60' |
02-29-2012, 06:24 PM | #35 |
Leaky Injector
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To the OP, what did you do to improve from 11.6 to 10.8 seconds?
Are you on stock suspension? Did 1.5way LSD help much? Is it much better than stock VLSD? Our trap speeds are similar, it's only that you run 1.2 seconds faster )
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12.0@121mph 2.0 60ft, CA18 S13 Evo3 16G,XSPower ex mani, Nistune 950cc E85 |
03-13-2012, 01:29 PM | #36 |
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He's .520 quicker in the 60ft then you.
Rule of thumb is for every tenth you can cut off out the hole is good for 2 tenths up top
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MunkyW3rkz Racing |
03-13-2012, 05:29 PM | #37 |
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Thank you..... You just helped a lot lol!
"You're much faster, what did you do? - Hey, he's much faster."
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12.0@121mph 2.0 60ft, CA18 S13 Evo3 16G,XSPower ex mani, Nistune 950cc E85 |
03-19-2012, 04:22 PM | #39 |
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Sorry if someone has already mentioned this but the stock S chassis shocks and springs in good condition have always been my favorite for a solid launch with some MT et streets or some M&H tires for street slicks.
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03-19-2012, 04:49 PM | #41 | |
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Quote:
Santos, what's better then? Except HKS Drags, of cause
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12.0@121mph 2.0 60ft, CA18 S13 Evo3 16G,XSPower ex mani, Nistune 950cc E85 |
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03-19-2012, 04:58 PM | #42 | |
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Fortune auto makes some but I haven't heard anything about them. I personally will be using sme QA1s. I will be machining a top mount to bolt up to the stock location then dial it all in I will be using the biggest sway bar I can find for the rear or I'll fab up a anti roll bar set up with heim joints for adjustability Basically be using my car to find every way possible to put all the power I can to the ground
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03-19-2012, 07:29 PM | #45 |
Nissanaholic!
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[QUOTE=Vetal;4587221]good condition? I remember reading somewhere that people used BAD stock shocks to help launch [QUOTE]
typical zilvia style. who in their right mind would drive over 100mph on blown shocks; never mind recommend it ? sounds like a smart thing to do |
03-19-2012, 07:39 PM | #46 | ||
Leaky Injector
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Quote:
Quote:
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12.0@121mph 2.0 60ft, CA18 S13 Evo3 16G,XSPower ex mani, Nistune 950cc E85 |
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03-19-2012, 07:54 PM | #47 |
Nissanaholic!
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whatever. if you think a few tenths in the quarter mile is worth the risk of losing control of your car into the wall then who am i to tell you what common sense is.
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03-19-2012, 08:31 PM | #48 |
Post Whore!
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Another good setup is stock GOOD shocks and Eibach sportlines, used this to get 1.5s in the 60 ft with 440 whp for a while.
I also had some old Tien HEs that we would soften all the way up on BF goodrich comp tas. The biggest thing in my past experience is TIRES and making sure you are soft and weight transfer goes where you want it. Next is the clutch you are using and your launch point. This is really where it will all come together. BF goodrich Comp TAs were the best for me, then came the M&H street slicks and then the MT ET Streets.
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03-26-2012, 01:48 PM | #49 |
Leaky Injector
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Steve and other fast guys... Can you give me some advise on my car, what's the best I can do? I have basically stock suspension with lowering springs, old S13 VLSD, 26x8.5 ET Drags. What could I do to improve launch/weight transfer/60ft? I see whereda40at runs stock shocks/springs and other suspension but with subframe spacers, should I copy that setup?
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12.0@121mph 2.0 60ft, CA18 S13 Evo3 16G,XSPower ex mani, Nistune 950cc E85 |
01-31-2013, 10:15 AM | #50 |
Leaky Injector
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Good old thread here...
Since last post I have swapped lowered springs back to stock and I THINK it improved traction a bit. However there is big downside to that - car looks like stupid offroader now, with probably 3-3.5" between tire and arch in front. Not so bad in the rear. Please help me to invent something that could retain stock springs BUT allow me to change ride height! I would gladly use some coilovers for the front if they they would cost reasonably AND not hurt traction, but I don't know of any... Maybe we could come up with some idea?
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12.0@121mph 2.0 60ft, CA18 S13 Evo3 16G,XSPower ex mani, Nistune 950cc E85 |
02-04-2013, 06:55 AM | #52 |
Zilvia Junkie
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the key on rwd cars is to keep the weight transfer to the rear. Reason why the op went faster on a stock setup is because his old coilovers were probably too stiff and not valved correctly.
Stock suspension is not the best but a properly valved shock even on stock springs would do a pretty good job. Basicly you want 0 damping on the initial compression of the shock and full damping on the rebound of the shock to keep the weight from transfering back to the front too quickly. Key is to keep the weight planted at the rear. Hell even stock springs and a proper drag shock that is two way valved would work great. They make drag specific coilovers for this reason, just gotta pay up for them. They will have soft rear springs and two way valving so you can play with settings. But most from what ive seen you use zero damping on compression and full dampen on rebound. For FWD this is exactly the opposite. Stiff as hell rear springs, Full damping on compression and 0 damping on the rebound. This allows the weight transfer to the back to be quickly "bounced" back to the front. Hell if I can pull 1.5 60's in my fwd Sentra, no reason when dialed in that a 400whp 240 couldnt pull 1.4's or better even on drag radials. |
02-04-2013, 07:07 AM | #53 |
Zilvia Junkie
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Another thing people often forget to think about in drag racing is alignment. And even for rwd this applies.
What the hell do you think happens when your rear end squats down 4" or so on a launch. Your wheel alignment and camber change drastically. For you rwd guys you would want to set up your alignment so that when its in the launch and acceleration position that the contact patch of the tire is at its best. So both the toe and the camber are as close to "0" as you can get during that launch and acceleration. So dependant on the suspension setup and actual squat you get, make you adjustments as necessary. Best thing to do would be to record the back tires with a Gopro during launch and see whats happening and then make changes from there. You want to keep the ride height up as well but not too high. Basically about stock ride height would be fine or little higher if your fitting big tires. But i can bet you during launches your getting a bit of toe out and negative camber. Not the best for traction. |
02-04-2013, 07:12 AM | #54 |
Zilvia Junkie
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And lastly, diff
Of course the stock vlsd isnt going to be the best diff for drag racing. You want something locks quickly and stays locked. Hell a welded diff would pretty much be your best bet but if you have other things going on with the car that arnt setup right, a welded diff can be not soo good. But seriously, a completely locked diff is the way to go. Full traction at the same time and same speed from both wheels together. Best way to go. |
08-03-2013, 02:19 PM | #56 |
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wow, my old thread was still alive. I still swear by this info for drag racing. I even have my 1.5 way carbon plate diff for sale.
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